According to the reserved Olange
In the very north of Karelia, near the polar circle, the unusual river – Olanga proceeds. Its source is in Finland, and she finishes his rapid running, falling into the Karelian lake Piode. The unusuality of it is that almost its entire valley is declared a national park, more precisely, two. In Finland, is the National Park "Oulana", Created back in 1956", In Russia – adjacent to the Finnish National Park "Paanairvi", Educated in 1992. Such attention to the river is not by chance: in Finland, it dissects the elevation of Maanselka, forming deep canyons, and in Russia permeates the amazing lake – Panaarvi, according to the rightly called "Karelian Baikal".
Traveling along this river we committed in 1992. In many ways, thanks to the innovation of our Finnish friends. To National Park "Oulana" arrived in mid-September, in the midst of the autumn fading of nature. Trail to the upper times of Oulancayoki (or just oullas – so Olrangu is called in Finland) begins from the central base. It is quite crowded here – buses and cars with tourists drive up, a student environmental station operates. Quickly complete all the necessary formalities and finally go to the taiga, having received, very by the way, a detailed park card.
Already kilometers five from the base we turned out to be almost alone. Only occasionally met small, in two or three people, groups of tourists. Initially, the trail pressed against the river, which in this area was overwhelmed by quiet ples. Water tourists came across, but, unlike our kayakers, they were all on canoe. The farther from the base, the cooler knew. The trail began to branch. I saw a map to which I had to go throughout our five-day campaign.
We spent the night in good constructed huts hidden in the most picturesque places. Especially remembered Parking at the fall in the oullace of her influx of Avanteau. Here formed a small picturesque lake, to which lower "Libe" Dolomite cliffs who have crushed gorgeous boras – White Footmaking. Evening silence violated only loud bursts of large rise. By the way, fishing in the park is very mining. It is allowed under licenses sold at quite affordable prices on the central base. The most prestigious prey – Kumja.
On the third day they approached the main goal of our photo segment – Oullaki canyons. Here she is "Slipping" The most exalted plot of Maanselki. The height of the sheer cliffs is just dizzy. Listening roar of the distraught water flow at the top almost not heard. Suddenly in the evening silence there was crackling dry branches. Someone carefully approached us from the depths of the forest. Meters in 20 sounds stopped, and in a few minutes this someone alone rushed away. In the lumen between the trees flashed back on the back of the horns of the northern deer, and apparently, it came out to admire the fascinating picture. Deer in the park a lot. The traces of them are found everywhere, and in the future we were fortunate enough to observe these graceful animals almost close.
The thunderstorm front forced us to hurry into the hut, but still covered the rain with a solid wall at her very doors. The shower lasted for a long time, but what an unforgettable picture presented us with a surrendant sun, each Christmas tree shined by myriads shining droplets, which made it easily and festively in the soul. It was the most distant point of our route. On the way back to the base, we decided to get acquainted in more detail with the influx of Oullaki – Avanteau. The valley of this river is very picturesque, but, of course, does not compare with the wild power of the Oullaska itself.
The territory of the park is generally saturated with water bodies with small and medium lakes, rivers and streams. Here are the highest mountains of Karelia – Kivakka (499.5 m), Mantutunturi (550.1 m), Nuorunden (576.7 m). On the steep slopes of the mountains there are peculiar "Hanging" The swamps is one of the sights of this area. Interested in the park and archaeological terms. It is located on the territory of Karelian Lapland. Saami (blades) penetrated here at the end of the II millennium BC.NS. Footprints of their parking and sanctoes are found in many places and, in particular, on the top of the mountain Kivakka. On the eastern border of the Park, the migration of the forest reindeer. In the Valley of Olang, the many wolverines and the otter. In total, 36 species of mammals were registered in the park and about 150 species of birds. From the latter in the Red Book of Russia, Berkut, Orlan-Belochvost and Skop.
The campaign approached the end, and as if about the farewell of Owulanka again showed his wild temper – the most border area of the river breaks his way among the chaos of red-brown stone blocks, forming the famous threshold of kiuchengas. Here we met a massive ecological excursion of schoolchildren who came for a lot of kilometers to see with their own eyes to see this frantic breakthrough of the rivers through the rocks before putting it in Lake Paanairvi, located already in Russian territory.
With this lake we met on another trip, in the spring, when the deciduous trees are few here only began to be covered "Green Pumpo". The road to Panaarvi, what she was at that time, worthy of a separate story. On the finische, when kilometers left to the lake, it seemed that our journey would end here. Save the expedition road workers who have agreed to transfer our international group along with volumetric luggage through fusions and forest dusts on the tracked all-terrain. Moreover, exactly at the agreed time they returned to deliver us back. Thank you for it from all my heart. Now these difficulties travelers will not meet – the road is laid to the lake.
Werethod leaving us for the coast of Olang. Speaking goodbye to our saviors, for a steep overgrown, the slope descended to the water cut, they pumped up two boats and began crossing the left bank of the river. Its width in this place of the NA is more than 100 m, but the rapid flow extended the path of times in three. But finally, a trail that a kilometer in a half brought us to the source of the river from the lake. It seemed the roof of a small watchdog. Our base will be here. Reset backpacks, tripods, cameras, boats and run to the lake to wash out crystal water after so long and cotton. We have a goal. Here is already a hot bonfire, and the name-self-bare invites you to a festive dinner.
We got to Panaarvi in the first days of June, when the period of the White Nights was already in full swing – after all, before the polar circle hence "hand to subtle". For us, it was especially valuable, since it was possible to shoot a closer day, and the photograph was the main task of our expedition. From the very beginning we were intrigued by a bright spot on the north shore of the lake. Before it was a few kilometers. Decided in the preliminary calm to achieve this place on one of the inflatable boats. But the oncoming breeze was still, and after two hours, this stain was almost as far as first as first. At this point, the trip received an unexpected continuation. It all started with a breakdown of the oars that coincided with the appearance of a helicopter on the lake, which we did not pay attention to, because it flew not for the first time. Have become intensely row one oars to the shore to go to the land. In the midst of work there was a sharp shock, and we saw the pupils of automata. Summary scene followed. After 15 minutes, everything explained. Seeing. How intensively, we try to leave the lake mirrors when the helicopter appears, the border guards suspected the wrong and reported to Zava, where the detachment was sent from "Violators". Ran out "incident" In the fact that on the borderer of minutes in twenty, we returned to the base, treated guys with dinner, and they promised in the near future to bring us to the cherished goal. Everything so happened. And the place it turned out to be really noteworthy. It is called Ruskaacallio (Red Rocks). This is the highest place on the shores of Panaarvi. Opposite them and the deepest places of the lake. Folded rocks from carbonate rocks and are a challenge of many rare plant species, nowhere else in the surrounding area. And yet – for these rocks from 1595 to 1849. held the Russian-Swedish border.
Quickly, in continuous excursions, flew days allocated. On the way back, let the short, but real pleasure rushing at the first fleets of Olangi on boats loaded by our Skarbla. Werethod was already waiting for us. Goodbye, Olranga!
N / P "Panaarvia: the nearest railway station – Loukhi Murmanskaya railway station, from there by bus to the village.Fi-Supreme, further along the forest road on passing transport to the central base of the park; On the vehicle: on the Murmansk highway to the village. Loi, then the same.
N / P "Oulankach: from Helsinki on the Northern Highway to G.Kusamo, then on the local road to the central base of the park. Nearest gearbox – y y.Kostomuksha (Russia, Karelia).
The best time is three year old days, in June-July – White nights. Mosquitoes are in sufficient quantity. Monster means to have necessarily. Climate – moderately cold. Middle temperatures: July – Plus 15 degrees, January – minus 13 degrees. Summerly sharp cooling.
N / P "Paanairvi": on Oz. Panaarvi and some small lakes built houses from a rounded timber with stoves. There are saunas. Special places are allocated for the installation of the tents. Infrastructure is not developed – meals, medicines, fuel for cars (preferably SUVs) and T.D. need to bring with you. Manifestations of negative human factors, like attacks of predatory animals, have not yet been registered. There are only two roads: one along Olangi, the second is 10 km deep in the park. The quality of the road is low. Purity of water and atmosphere – Higher category.
N / P "Oulana": on the central base there is a hotel with all amenities, cafes and parking for cars. Developed equipment rental. On the territory of the Park – accommodation in log houses.
Main Sports Objects – Kumja and Harius. There are also large pike and perch. Lithingle of Kumi licensed, on spinning on Olange open from June 15 to August 15. One day a week – day off. The most extracted heavy hesitory flashes or heavy wobbler. Harius fishing on lakes is open all year round both on spinning and on the float fishing rod (the worms should be brought with them).
N / P "Paanairvi" Located in the border zone. Before traveling, you must contact the park administration and find out the conditions for the passage of border control and all the details of the park visits.
186667, Karelia, Looksky Rn, P.Pyorna, ul.Friendship, 31. Telephone: (81439) 28-688.28-728