Active Switzerland in summer, or what to do tourist in the mountains

What thoughts come to mind when mentioning Switzerland? Chocolate? Watch? Banks? This is a pretty standard set of banalities about this country. I visited Switzerland and did not try chocolate, I did not buy a clock and did not open a bank account. You say that I went in vain? And you will be absolutely wrong!

Not so long ago, the Ministry of Tourism Switzerland decided to invest in the organization of pedestrian, cycling and other attitudes of active recreation on their territory. After the arrangement of the necessary infrastructure, Switzerlandmobility was created, which is engaged in servicing tourists throughout the network of national routes.

It all starts pretty just. You meet at Zurich (or any other major city airport) a representative of the company, which speaks many languages ​​and, in the extreme case, has 10 fingers to explain on them if you do not have any foreign languages ​​at all. He will tell you the designations of your route, will explain the features of the journey and give away vouchers for hotels. Especially impatiently can start in the mountains directly from the airport – such routes also have. But we, coming in Zurich, decided to still look a little, before moving in the mountains.

To his happiness, I flew in Zurich with SWISS airline, and directly from St. Petersburg! From the first look it can be seen that SWISS is an excellent company, in Swiss accurate and high-quality. Flight attendants are pretty, nutrition is delicious, fresh and nutritional (you can choose a special menu) and, which is surprising, in the online class, give very elevated iron knives and forks. My journey from the very beginning went with a bang.

Zurich – the first acquaintance with Switzerland

Zurich is quite small, according to Russian standards, but the largest city in Switzerland. Since at one time he fell under the Protestant wing of Christianity, it, on the one hand, determined its extremely discreet style in the architecture, the decoration of churches and T.NS., But, on the other hand, brought him to the leaders of world trade and predetermined the growth of the banking sector. By the way, at one time, the usurization (prototype of banking services) was considered not quite a decent activity, so all such shops were allowed to open at some distance from the center. Over time, this area has grown greatly and became a real financial center of the city.

• In the center of Zurich on the banks of the river
• Traditional Protestant city
• Flags of Switzerland and Zurich Canton
• Street in Zurich
• Architecture Zurich

On a runaway inspection of Zurich enough one day. All interesting focused quite compact. I liked the area on the other shore from the central street – Banhefstrasse. There, the territory is quite mountainous and consists of a plurality of narrow streets and small benches. In this case, there are very few people there, and you can wander one long.

Despite the fact that Zurich is a big and modern city, there are so many greens in it. Water in the river is striking with its transparency. Swans at the mouth of the river are not afraid of people and their appearance confirms the fact of water purity. I spent the night in a hotel literally 200 meters from the main railway station, and I did not give me a nightingale under the windows all night. You can introduce another such city with a population of about 1 million people, in which nightingale in the city center?

• Square in Zurich
• Zurich swans
• Embankment Zurich
• Courtyard since 1357
• Business Center Zurich

What I didn’t like it, so this is what is in Zurich, and in general in Switzerland, little English inscriptions, menus and other information. She, of course, is, but not everywhere where you want. I first encountered this right on arrival at the airport when I tried to take a ticket to the center. My knowledge of German was not enough to understand that Zurich Flughafen is a Zurich airport, and Zurich HB is the Central Station. By the way, be careful: in addition to the above-mentioned "Zurikhov", There is another station "Zurich some kind" (I do not remember exactly), but in any case it is not a central station!

Nutrition in Zurich organized at the highest level. There are no problems with cafes, restaurants and other nutrients. Prices are more or less than the same, if you do not enter the high kitchen restaurants. Average hot dish – 20 francs. Beer – 5-7 francs. Portions are large, maintenance is excellent. From the whole wealth of a local catering, I preferred to have dinner at the ODeon cafe (at the very beginning of Limatkay). This cafe is famous for the fact that Lenin grandfather was told there, and he, as you know, was not at all a fool in part well to eat! Despite the weekday, the people were pretty well, while most of the neighboring establishments were practically empty. Public – mostly white collars. All relaxed and cheerful. In general, I liked there.

• Bar Restaurant Odeon
• Traditional cuisine B "Odeon"
• Chocolate shop in Zurich
• Beer pub
• Streck and houses in Zurich

A small local feature of the catering – all cafes and restaurants are adjusted under office workers and therefore offer a complete set of dishes only between noon and two hours and after six in the evening. In the interval from 14.00 to 18.00 You usually offer sandwiches or something similar. In general, plan your nutrition so as not to stay hungry!

Lucerne – before going to the route

The next day we moved to Lucerne, from where, in fact, our extreme route began. Unlike Zurich, Lucerne is a Catholic city. Therefore, the architecture here is much more fun, churches and ordinary buildings are decorated with all sorts of beautiful pieces. In general, please put an eye!

• Clock on the town hall
• Lutheran Church in Lucerne
• Souvenir shop
• Restaurant in Lucerne
• Street in Lucerne

The city itself is not big and everything interesting for tourists is located in a rather compact zone. Usually everyone leads to a wooden bridge from the tower (a business card almost all of Switzerland), as well as to the monument of the wounded lion – Allegory about the courage and devotion of the Swiss Guardsmen.

Near the monument to Lev is a museum "Glacial garden", in which there is a bunch of everything. Separately all these exhibits do not pull on a full-fledged museum, but all together – it deserves visits. First, there is a section dedicated to geology. Showing huge round as billiard ball Kamenyuki. It is not entirely clear how they were formed during the glacial period, but the fact – on the face. There is an old house there, in which the situation is preserved, characteristic of the usual Swiss family of the XVIII century. There is a tower, climbing on which you can look at Lucerne from above. And finally, there is a mirror labyrinth Alhambra. This thing is overshadowing all previous fully! Absolutely incomprehensible where the wall, and where is its reflection! You have to go, stretching your hands forward to not hit the forehead about the next mirror. Inside the labyrinths, all sorts of beautifulness, which is also not easy to find, for it is not clear, reflection is beautiful or reality. I highly recommend going. By the way, the SWISS PASS entrance is free.

• Monument to the Swiss Guardsmen
• Mirror Maze
• Strange monument to a woman
• Painted Building in Lucerne
• Hotel Building in Lucerne

Also on the seafront of the local river, not far from the town hall, there is an old Rathaus brewery, in which you can feel great with a great beer. Plate sausage costs 20 francs, steak – 40 francs, beer – 8 francs for 0.5 liters. This is a very popular institution with a beautiful view, especially in the summer. By the way, the gang from the Moscow Club was noticed at the next table "Harley Davidson".

• Hotel Gutsch
• Embankment Lucerne
• Swiss fondue
• Bicycles are popular in Switzerland

Having finished with the cultural program, we went to the hotel in order to start the active part of our program in the morning – in fact, what we really came to Switzerland.

By bike in the mountains

As mentioned above, all movements in Switzerland pass through national routes developed by Switzerlandmobility. Daily luggage luggage on the route Tour from the hotel to the hotel is organized by Swisstrails.

Early in the morning at the starting point of the route we were waiting for a car in which previously ordered bicycles were folded. Standard program involves standard bikes that are quite suitable for ordinary tourists, not burdened cycling skills. But we decided to pamper ourselves and test the top models of the bikes.

• Bus and swisstrails trailer
• Before entering the route
• Hybrid bike
• Faithful friend of cyclist

Our expectations justified for all 100 percent. I don’t know how often the company updates a cycle park, but our devices were clean, perfectly adjusted and seemingly practical new highway with a deore XT hidden and disk hydraulic brakes (as I understood later – it is extremely important!). Also, each bike was equipped with a small trunk, Remcople with a spare chamber, helmet and vocabulae for water. The only thing that surprised me is: there were only 18 gears on the bike, and not 27. I personally lacked another one of the smallest front stars.

Flyer bicycles from Flyer were chosen for girls. This is a miracle "hostile" Technicians have a small battery that, at your request, adds to your effort on a pedal, a little more electric effort. That is, if you do not turn the pedals – the bike itself does not go, but when driving uphill, he significantly reduces the load on his feet. True, these bicycles have its drawback: transfers only on the rear wheel and, due to the design features, their switching is not entirely clear. However, it should be admitted that a similar bike is truly a find for a regular cycling man, for the mountains in Switzerland are very cool and twist the pedals of an ordinary bike – very and very hard! Do not think that those loads that you experience on a home exercise exercise will help you when you will overcome a delayed two-hour lifting degrees at 20. And it’s not even that I myself am a regular office worker with a beer belt rolling on a bike on a flat Peter not more than 500 km per season. Just with the mountains – the jokes are bad! In general, I warned you.

Our route around Lucerne lake began from a small village of Willisau near Lucerne. The terrain here is very picturesque, relief – calm. Despite the Saturday Day, the workers of the village were engaged in the harvesting of the hay, and the cows grazed on juicy meadows.

• Town Willisau – the beginning of the route
• Suburb of Lucerne
• Behind the descent – again
• Cycling signs

The route was designed for highway bikes, so all the way we drove along the neat Swiss asphalt. By the way, the bicycle paths are not everywhere. Often you have to go through the carriageway. However, routes are laid by rather quiet tracks, and Swiss drivers are very disciplined and preventive to cyclists and pedestrians. On a cool turn to you no one will signal so that you move from the road and gave yourself to overtake yourself. So it will be for you to touch the caravan of cars to improving visibility.

In general, time before lunch flew unnoticed. Small lifts and descents gave a certain flavoring. I stayed, only to piffosing beauty around, the benefit of this good was abundant for an inquisitive traveler.

• Little house and small machine
• Rural chapel
• Chapel in the mountains
• Monument Plow

Lunch stopped in a small village Wolhusen. What is characteristic, the cost of lunch was about the same as in Zurich. Robing and resting, moved further.

The road is slow, but rightly started to climb up. And if first the rise was quite tolerant, then soon I had to switch to the transfer 1-1 and with great difficulty to rotate the pedal. And there was no descent. It has already become not up to local beauties! The main thing is to find your pace and strictly stick to it with small breaks. After two hours of hell, the road was leveled, and we left for a small plateau. During the next holiday, the Guide said that there is still a coolest and no less long approach in front. At the same time, judging by the testimony of odometers installed on Flyer bicycles, we drove only 35 km, with a total way to today 63 km.

• Swiss cow
• Village Emmental
• Shooting on nature
• Goat in Booth

Of course, such minimians did not like the girls at all. Awareness that we drove a little more than half of the way and that there are still big difficulties ahead – all this was just a legs.

The exit was found pretty quickly represented by Public Transport Switzerland. In the next village, the girls sat down on the bus, going straight to our hotel. And the charm of the Swiss bus in front of all others is that he has a special fastener for bicycles. However, Flyer bikes, because of their design, it is impossible to fix on the bus. I had to fix ordinary bicycles, and to take Flyer. So we killed all the hares! And the girls quietly went to the hotel in the arms of the SPA complex, and we slightly facilitated the task of overcoming the coming harsh lift. I will not say that with electricity the slide has become a prosperous, but the fact that it has become much easier – fact! I even started stopping again to pithography.

After a couple of hours, a group of men finally arrived at the Rischli Hotel. The girls by that time were already released by the SPA zone, and we were able to get a little in the sauna. Honestly, I do not quite understand the concept of this hotel. It is located pretty high in the mountains in almost a clean field. Nearby no villages. Around the hotel there are buildings for animals that serve as food for tourists. Of course, around is unreal beautiful. View from the window – stunning. Yes, you can sit all day in a chaise lounge in SPA, alternating Caldarium, sauna and shower Charcot. But more what to do there? Mystery. Although the hotel itself is very pleasant. Food – at the highest level. And among the service personnel even there is a Russian-speaking girl.

• View from the hotel window
• Idilic picture
• Old Citroen
• Rarity MG

In the morning, a lift was seen next to the hotel, which means in winter there is something to do in this area! In the summer, the Swiss came up with an attraction a la descent on the sleds on the horror. Top pulls the same lift, and down you go on a special trolley with wheels and lever brake. Despite the fact that it is a gone to have special sides so that ride was safe, I still managed to fly off the track. And I even managed to get frightened that the racer would die in me, but quickly corrected the cart and dispersed again. In general, fun fun.

On the second day we were waiting for the tired legs, with unaccustomed a hidden fifth point and a very cool mountain. If you add it all together, then the picture was just unbearable. So hard I was not long ago. To tell the truth, I could not stand it and just rolled the bike next to myself, because there was no strength to twist the pedals. At the same time, more trained Swiss, and may, judging by the form, athletes, quite cheerfully climbed up.

Our team stretched a few kilometers away, and therefore the guide waited for all laggards at the top point. By the way, there was still snow there. Therefore, it was not very hot, especially if we consider that the T-shirt was just wet from sweat! If you do not want to glue at the upper points – take with you spare dry clothes. And the very cool thing is a special veloruskzak. He does not fit to his back, so the sweat can calmly evaporate from clothes. It is a pity that I was not so. My winter snowboarding backpack with a special reinforcement on the back could simply squeeze on top!

But, no matter how banal it sounds, the real difficulties were waiting for us ahead. More precisely, I really liked the further path. The descent on one-band mountain serpentine, through which the cars go to both sides, and still come across motorcyclists (these at least heard from afar) and cyclists at a speed of about 60 km / h – this is something! Adrenaline in pure form – Take and Hapai! The main thing is that the brakes do not fail.

• Car rarity on counter
• Ferrari takes over the serpentine
• Cyclists overtake Ferrari

But, as you know, every medal has two sides. To go from the mountain GlaubenBieler on a bike, you need to be able to manage a little. Or go very slowly. In general, two fighters from our team could not get to Niza without loss. As a result, I had to check the quality of Swiss medicine. She, in general, not surprisingly, was at the height. In fact, they were found: the break of the ligaments on the fingers – 1 pc., Break blast – 1 pc., Ears of soft tissues – set. As a result, the next day temporarily dropped out of the active phase of traveling two people.

The remaining brigade safely reached the next hotel. This time the Kreuz hotel was in the center of a small town on the shore of the beautiful Lake Sarner. Since SPA in the hotel was not, I had to go for refreshing procedures for the lake. In general, May 23 opened the swimming season. Which is characteristic, the cultural beach was fenced and enlarged. But for the entrance they demanded several francs. As they refused to take the card, I had to swim by the fence – on the wild beach.

• Lake Sarner
• On a mountain road
• Swiss species

The central location of the hotel also ran sideways. From 6 am, the local church began to collage with a terrible force about some holiday. All this lasted hours up to 8, in fact before breakfast.

The third day was divided into two parts. In the morning, we were waiting for a 25-kilometer work on almost a common area and further a 15-kilometer pedestrian accident on the Schwalmis ridge with excellent panoramic views of Lucerne Lake. Reality as always turned out to be a little different. Whether the guide Berg our nerves and did not say the most gloomy, but the truth, whether he himself was not quite aware of the complexity of the route, but on the fact we got a very vigorous day.

25 kilometers for a common area unexpectedly turned into another storming of the pass. In fairness, I will say that this pass was much smaller and more gently, but in three days we have accumulated a fair share of anger on a guide and Roptali openly. But after an hour of torment, we still overcame the upper point, and further the path lay on the canopy valley. I will not stop at the next beauties. I hope you have already understood that in Switzerland everything is in order.

• At an altitude of 1611 meters
• Trailer for dogs
• Motorcyclist on the road

After a couple of hours, the Panel arrived at the FELL cable car (near Oberrickenbach), which in the idea was supposed to withdraw us just on the same ridge with excellent panoramic views. We have passed the bikes all the same Swisstrails van and all on the same Swiss Pass rose upstairs.

On foot in the mountains

Since the terrain in front of us was waiting for a rather wild, decided to take a dry paja just in case in the entity at the lift. Suddenly a cafe on top will be closed. Very pleased the reaction of the host of the institution. She was very surprised that we were such a big crowd, and expressed doubt that she would be able to find on all bread for sandwiches, but somehow scored 10 sandwiches, and we went.

• Heavy lift
• Mountain bikers
• At the top of Riga
• Swiss cows

Not surprisingly, but the track was not at all. From the very beginning, we walked in the mountain. At first, since the movements on a bike differ from movements when walking and, accordingly, different muscles work, all moved quite cheerfully. After a couple of hours, when everything is pretty, and the tops and, actually, there were no panoramic species, the audience began to worry. In the end, everyone chose his pace of walking and intervals between stops. Fortunately, the path was pretty clearly marked with paint on the stones throughout the route.

After some time the snow appeared again. The trail is pretty wet and flooded. I regretted that I climbed into the mountains in ordinary pricks, and not in special trekking shoes. Yes, and sticks would not interfere. Why they are not allowed to rent? The group stretched greatly. I turned on my empty music in the player and fortunately.

• In May in the mountains is snow
• Hiking Route on Snow Speakers
• Alpine Panorama
• After a difficult road in the mountain

Soon the cherished cafe building appeared. It became more fun to go, and the last jerk was quite easy. To cool a little after a protracted lift, I dived into the snow and thoroughly frozen than caused the approving exclamations of other groups that have risen here earlier.

BRISENHAUS cafe, fortunately, worked. There we filed a real Swiss soup from cream and smoked sausages. We, by the way, are such a soup and called Swiss. Very satisfying, hot and nutritious! The most thing is that the top. By and large, we rose only 1750 meters and scored a height of no more than 900 meters, but for exhausted bikes of organisms the load was quite adequate. Personally, I transfer pedestrian loads easier than cycling, so I was not so bad on top; And if you look around and imagine how colleagues are sitting in stuffy offices in the Swamp in St. Petersburg, then!

• Alpine idiily
• Houses in the mountains
• Tourists clamped uphill
• Pointer to the top of Riga

The way down took four hours, and that, taking into account the fact that "At the request of workers" the route was slightly adjusted in favor of the final descent on the funicular, and not on foot.

At the foot of the mountains we were waiting for a beautiful hotel "Bellevue" with a gorgeous view of Lucerne Lake. As it turned out, this place is Seelisberg – the heart of Switzerland, where in the older times, the agreement was signed on the establishment of a confederation between three cantons. In the future, the other areas have joined the other areas, creating a powerful state at that time.

• Mountain Lake
• Hotel "Bellevue"
• Beautiful view from the hotel
• Riga Lift

In the evening, for dinner, or in tribute to tradition, or just here it is so accepted, the concert of local amateur time passed. Ancient antiquities pretty cheerfully played huge alpine pipes and no less cheerfully danced with the national flag. As the people ended up saturated with local gastronomic delights and went more on hot drinks, there were more and more wishing to join the dancing mountaineers. As a result, all this turned into a huge dancing train, flowing tables on the terrace.

I can not not say a few words about local fault. I mean the usual dry red wine. It has a little unusual taste. It seems that it is very similar to a saturated French, but at the same time they somehow removed the sufficiently large share of acid. As a result, it can be drunk not only with some snacks, but also it is pleasant and individually from the rest of the gastronomy. In general, I recommend. Not disappointed! The only thing that did not really like it is the local beauzola.

• In the mountains of Switzerland
• Paraglisters in the Alps
• Paragliders over the roofs
• Mountain goats

Once went such a booze, I can’t say about local beer. It is cooked here in the best traditions of German brewing. No preservatives and other nonsense. True, in cafes prices are twice as high as in the same Germany. In supermarkets it costs quite reasonable money – about 2 francs for the jar / bottle.

The next morning we went down on a mountain train to the Lucerne Lake Coast and then on the boat (Of course, on Swiss Pass) we crossed on the other side, where the lift again threw us up on a pedestrian path, where we, of course, moved back to the mountain. This time we had to conquer "Queen Gor" – Rigi Kulm.

• Ship on Lucerne Lake
• Embankment of Lucerne Lake
• View of Lucerne Lake
• View of the lake

At some point, our pedestrian trail crossed the path for mountain bikes. Poor cyclist dragged his iron horse on himself because the road was extremely not adapted for driving. At this point, I once again pleased that we still chose highway bikes and ordinary routes, not the mountain. For the first time I was visited by this thought when I compared the profile of our cycling route in the catalog and some way for Mounting Bike. The difference of me was very impressed and made to believe in wider borders of human abilities in terms of bicycle!

Next, this transition is nothing special. Is that an abundance of gorgeous panoramic species and cast-iron baths scattered in the meadows – apparently for sunbathing.

• Cast iron bath in the field
• Pedestrian index
• Two-meter bottle of beer
• Picnic place in the mountains

By the way, on all routes, specially equipped picnic locations come across. There is a place for a fire with a device for organizing kebabs, firewood, benches, tables, sheds from the sun. As we were explained, all this luxury did and continues to maintain some kind of Swiss company in working condition (unfortunately, I forgot the name). Such sites throughout the network of routes – several hundred. Here is such an excellent example of charity.

Through deep internal analysis, I was found that Switzerland organically fits my world. This is a country with excellent alpine nature, which is not as bright as in Asia. The presence of mountains has a positive effect on the mood. Swiss accuracy and accuracy add confidence in tomorrow morning. In general, this is a country of dreams.

reference Information

Flight. Get to Switzerland It is most convenient to SWISS airlines. Tickets are easily booked on WWW sites.swiss.COM or AVIA.Travel.Ru. What is especially nice – the flight is carried out directly from St. Petersburg! Everyone who lives is not in the capital understands me perfectly: it’s so beautiful – to fly on holiday not through Moscow! Flights Pass at a convenient time for excellent Airbus A319 aircraft. From St. Petersburg departure to 15.10, in Zurich the plane arrives at 16.25. On the way back the flight is flying in the morning: departure to 9.20, arrival at 14.twenty.

Muscovites are lucky. From the capital of SWISS not only in Zurich (twice a day: in the morning and day), but also to Geneva (once a day, flight evening). Moscow flights are performed on Airbus A320 and Airbus A321 aircraft.

If luck is on your side, you can buy tickets for promotions for super-engagement prices. By the way, SWISS makes special offers not only on flights between Russia and Switzerland, but also in more distant, including the most exotic, directions. If you have Miles map & More, then, in addition to all other charms, get yourself a premium mile at the expense.

Money. Prices are everywhere in local currency. Most places, for reference, prices are indicated in Euro. True, the course of Frank-Euro there is still pre-crisis. Everywhere you can pay bank cards. Personally, in a week, the journey of the franc even in my hands did not hold, everywhere I paid a card.

Moving around the country. On the territory of this country there is a single travel ticket – Swiss Pass. You can buy it for half an hour, hour, day, week, month and t.NS. Depending on the time of the ticket, the number of members in your group is provided discounts from the basic value. This travel is valid for all types of transport throughout the country, including trains and shipment. SWISS PASS can also go for free to most significant museums. In general, the thing is extremely convenient, but quite expensive. If you have many moves in your journey, then you feel free to take a ticket for a week. If moving a little, it is more profitable to buy day or hour tickets. In general, if you want to save – plan travel routes in advance.

Accommodation. When choosing a route from the Switzerlandmobility directory, you can also select hotels. Can be limited to basic comfort. In this case, you will be offered small guesthouses, low-grayscale hotels, hostels and even sometimes (at your request) overnight on a haymaker at the peasant. You can choose normal comfort – it is usually hotels in the European level 3 stars. Everything is very worthy. For sophisticated connoisseurs of comfort, there are offers for hotels of the LUX hotels. However, it should be noted that this type of hotels is far from everywhere and therefore it is necessary to put the route with special care.

We tried to have normal comfort on your route and spent one night in the 4-star Kreuz Hotel. I all rose to spend the night in the haymaker, in order to compare our hayls and Swiss. And in general, it seems to me, it is pretty romantic! Moreover, the annoying bloodsowing insects I did not reflit in this wonderful country. But my beautiful gusting of the souls did not find support in the minds and hearts of colleagues. Therefore, I had to sleep in a first-class perine instead of hay. What, you see, after quite a tedious bike robbery, too good.