A strange thing, but the second after Seville in the magnitude of the city of South of Spain, the port and commercial center of Andalusia has always been little concerned about his story. If at some place it was necessary to build a new building – the older was ruthlessly demolished and built what corresponded to the concepts of modernity and practicality. In general, the practical vein and foresight of the inhabitants of Malaga for the Spaniards have already for many centuries. And now the historic center of Malaga looks, to put it mildly, eclectic. Vintage buildings coexist with modern glossy showcases of expensive boutiques. Beautiful boulevards pass through the port quarters with their confusion and not too picturesque devastation. The Grand Cathedral towers in the midst of a poor residential area … and old walls are still crumbling, and in their place the lifting cranes and construction sites grow. However, this does not mean that the city is nothing to hit the imagination of the tourist. And this is not only the Arab fortress of Alcasab, where all guides and guidebook will be sent. Although Alcasaba, of course, deserves attention.
This fortress palace was erected on the site of the former Roman bastion during the Arab rule on Earth of Spain. Economic Arabs rebuilt at their discretion all that could be useful. Therefore, in one old building, the details of the Roman, Phoenician and Moorish architectures are sometimes combined. And nothing – very peculiar and very typical of Spain. Not far from Alcasab, by the way, there are still ruins of the ancient Roman theater I-II centuries.NS. Their Arabs did not rebuild, apparently, because of his small interest in theatrical art. And they did not make any more. For the powerful walls of Alcasab’s fortress – a living archaeological museum with superbly preserved towers (sometime there were about a hundred!), inner courtyards with palm trees and fountains, palace enfilades decorated with ancient ceramics. Living Museum – Because there are no fences and tablets "Do not touch" and "Do not enter". Walking along Alcasab, easy to get lost in the labyrinths and interlacing of palace rooms and corridors. "Living space" The fortress is quite large, and the planning is deliberately confusing, because the defensive structure should have created difficulties to potential invader. From Alcasaba you can go above uphill and through a special transition to get to another old Arab fortress – Gibralfaro. Her Arabs also rebuilt – from the Phoenician old fortress. And gave a present beautiful name meaning "Lighthouse on the cliff". Gibralfaro – the highest point of Malaga. It offers a beautiful view of the whole city and surroundings, so the place is especially loved by photographers and cinemas. Most advertising prospectuses lure tourists in Costa del Sol – these are views from here, with Gibralfaro.
And how many films were filmed in the fortress! If well, wives Romantic Gorma Landscape with an old picturesque castle – go to Gibralfaro. Local residents say that in the other season of the kinogroup for being written in the queue, and they also quarrel due to the one who will get the most beautiful sunset and expectation. Perhaps Gibralfaro already has the right to title the deserved scenery of world cinema! And yet, Malaga is not only tourist objects. The soul of the city is in his life, on his streets. Little taverns and cafes – steps down or, on the contrary, up the narrow screw staircase on the sealing terrace. The tricking house of the old cinema with the man-made posters of one wall falls on the multi-storey shopping complex with signs of leading fashion brands. Even look at the house fearlessly – but the cinema is fine here "cool" everyday. Morning market Malaga will show all the variety of Spanish people: tanned peasants to black; old women, similar to evil sorcerer from a fairy tale; Beauties of the Yuzhanki with long eyebrows and white skin under the worsens of hats, but their hands are never laundered to such whiteness, like important buyers with baskets; And buyers in such beautiful dresses, as if they are deliberately dressing up to the best to walk along the shelves … closer to noon, when a perishable then Var sold out, the tasting of local wines begins. The sellers themselves are not lagging behind buyers, treat and other trading, so that the atmosphere of universal prosperity reaches the closure on the market. Man in a decent suit and tie feeds carrot of dusty donkey, "parked" Next to the mirror-glass office building. This is Malaga. Spanish West and Spanish East merge here.
Although geographically, Andalusia is South of Spain, it is more than other provinces on the East. Muslim her got pretty, because the Arabs-conquerors understood what they prefer to live where better – warmer, more beautiful, fertrige, richer. In Malaga, the borders between Muslim and Christian cultures have long been erased: the Catholic chapel is quietly decorated with the Moorish ornament and in the local dialect full of Arab words. Malagnos – Residents of Malaga – they speak their, "Malagian" Language – a bright mixture of rural dialects, high-grade Spanish and modern international slang. If a walk in Malaga is not in a tourist mode, all the incomplete and implicit charm of this city will soon open. His southern part, he goes to the sea, from all other parties – is surrounded by mountains. Due to this, over the centuries, the atmosphere of comfort and the camera is preserved here, inherent in small towns. Early in the morning go well to the port, where a noisy life is boiling from dawn to sunset, and then – climb up the narrow streets fascinating after the port of the city of his silence.
Welcoming neighbors, women hang in open windows of blankets and parins. In the morning, all Malaga drinks coffee, his aroma is mixed with the smell of the sea and everything is enhanced due to the rapid heat. Go on the smell – a coffee shop can hide in a small arc or in a patio, where it behaves like an accessory plywood door. Outdoor Chinitas Some romance looking for a courtyard with a cafe de chinitas. There once wrote his poems Frederico Garcia Lorca, in the evenings he read them his friends and everyone who wanted to listen to him. But there is no de chinitas mentioned in his verses – cafes closed back in 1936 and now has become a fabric store, which reports a memorial plaque in a small passage "Chinitas". And in 1969, in the first floor of an aristocratic mansion in the city center, a new cafe de chinitas opened. Cafe-thesis is quite good, with expensive menus, strong coffee and pleasant music. It is a pity that Lorca was not there. When the sun rises above, it is better to hide in the shady alley of the Botanical Garden. He is in the very center of the city. There are plants from all over the world, and just very beautiful: music playing, nanny walk with children, ducks swim in the ponds, and in the fountains – goldfish.
Botanical Garden – Malaga Pride. They say the mayor of the city ordered all insurance companies of the province of Malaga to insure the collection of its rare plants – by the way, the best in Spain. A few years ago some kind of two hundred Summer Chinese Tree began to wrap and reset the leaves, and the insurers were so worried that they were discharged to consult the best Chinese botany. He cured the tree and besides the fee for the work received the title of Honorary Citizen of the city. Heat can be waited in air conditioned halls of the museum. Three years ago, on before, the Museum of Picasso. Many residents of the surrounding quarters did not even know that they are countrymen celebrities. True, the Picasso family left Malaga, when the future great artist was still a child. But the childhood of the artist is also something else, and the opening of the museum was accompanied by a noisy advertising campaign under the motto "Picasso returned home". For some reason, the museum arranged not in the house where childhood Pablo passed, and nearby – in a specially built building with spacious, equipped with the latest technology. The Picasso Collection in the Malaga Museum is worth looking at her, although she is not as rich as in the Barcelona Museum.
At sunset, go to the west of Malaga. To the west of the Guadalmedin River, which divides the city into two unequal parts, are the famous quarters of Trinibad – Motherland Flamenco. The most famous singers Flamenco – Cantaories – were born here. Go to any cafe – not for dinner, although you are not going to leave hungry from here. Wait for the music, whom and tense rhythms of Spanish of Spanish dances. From Rhythms Flamenco, they say red wine in your glass turns into the blood of Spain itself, and you will drink it until the music is forgiven. And whoever you are before, after the throat of the live flamenco you will become Spaniard. A little east of Malaga, under the protection of the vertices of Sierra Almihara stretch the golden beaches of the non-knowledgeable cold of Aksarkia. This place is famous not only by the current resorts, where the sun shines all year round, but also the fact that this earth Malaga is the most famous wine of Spain. If you believe the Spaniards – not the best, but maybe they say so out of modesty. Or maybe from pride – after all, everything is good here. Maybe the fact is that the Spaniards generally prefer red wines in general, and Malaga – Golden. Be that as it may, it is here that grapes are growing a variety of pedrochemis, from which the sweet (20-30% sugar) Malaga’s dessert wine, and he has more fans more than in their homeland, in Spain. Hardly at least one tourist left Malaga without a bottle of it "Liquid Sun" Spanish spill. And in trendy Paris, and in business New York, and in a rainy Moscow, a small sip of honey malaga will remind you of Malaga, the shore of the sun, the paradise corner on earth.