Against the background of war

Extreme tourism is not only a rafting on dangerous rivers or hiking through the desert. Other hot spots can be more involved in any desert, and the situation in them is changing faster than any mining flow. An ideal place for such "Polit-Extreme" – Israel: on the northern border – "Hezbollah", on the South – "Hamas", in the middle – still any militants, and between all of them from an hour to five ride. At the same time (in contrast to Chechnya), people with weapons in the Palestinian territories are not inclined to create special problems to people with a camera, and even pop approy; Unlike Afghanistan, they are not going to cut off the wrong head and, unlike Iraq, a person will not shift (except that it is inappropriate). In addition, on the West Bank and in the Gaza sector, a bunch of sights and a developed infrastructure for tourists. Welcome to the territory!


Hebron is one of the few in the western shore of cities with a mixed population, so life in it seems like a natural embodiment of multilayer Middle Eastern schizophrenia. For the Jews, this is the city of Abraham and his wife Sarra, for the burial of which he bought a mahpel cave – now it’s the second after the Wall crying the shrine of Judaism. This is the city of King David, it was here that he was anointed to the kingdom.

And the Arabs call the city of Khalil – "Loves": "The" favorite of Allah "is referred to Koran Ibrahim (all the same Abraham). The walls of the cave are written by Arabically, and even in the Jewish part of the shrine, behind a powerful wall installed after in 1994 the extremist Baruch Goldstein opened fire on praying Muslims, the doors still painted in the green color of Islam, and behind cabinets with holy books on Hebrew – the same Arabic.

Jewish settlers here about 600 people. Palestinians about 120,000, but they complain that several hundred Jews managed to paralyze the whole city. And soldiers guarding settlers, periodically get from those and from these.

In addition to the cave of Makhpel and the Russian monastery of the Blessed Trinity, built at the Mamvrian oak, where, according to legend, Abraham took three angels, it makes sense to stroll through the Jewish district Abraham Avina. Iron mesh separating it from a narrow gloomy Palestinian street, – a bright symbol of local coexistence. The settlers say: grid so that Palestinians do not climb into our area. Palestinians say – this so that the Jews in us stones did not move. Terrorist attacks are in Hebron quite often. In these busy days, the Jewish community refers to strangers extremely irresistible.

Christian villages

Christians among the Palestinians a little – about one and a half percent of the population. And it becomes less and less, but so far Cute churches can be found in these little quiet villages, and the best in the Middle East is a muddy green tart olive oil from local small, bitter olive. For example, in the village of Taik (Ancient Ephraim), where, according to legend, Jesus retired after the resurrection of Lazarus, the abbot of the local church Father Rio’ad will gladly show you the perfectly preserved medieval house with the entire setting and demonstrates oil lamps that locals make local residents. Of course, it is impossible not to call in Bethlehem: the christmas temple still keeps the traces of the cruel siege of the start of intifada, when a couple of hundreds of militants and local residents were locked. Another attraction of modern Bethlehem – "Great Israeli Wall": a highly ugly concrete "security fence", designed to prevent Palestinian terrorist penetration into Israel. In the last couple of years, the wall discovered designers and trendy photographers who remove thin models on her background. It is necessary to take a picture now – because the wall can ever demolish like Berlin.


The capital of Palestinian autonomy. The city has pretty shopping streets and good restaurants. Home Landmark – New Glass Mausoleum Yasira Arafat. Sometimes the mausoleum can be found even the guards in the parade form, which will be with children’s delight to shoot you on mobile phones. On the way back there is a risk to be in a long queue on the checkp. Rush hour – Morning, when Palestinian workers are tested on the road to Israel. Try to relax and enjoy unique communication. PPC – Paradise for the Anthropologist: Here you can tie a conversation with the most different personalities – from Russian-speaking soldiers and soldiers in full combat ammunition to the left-owned Israelis activists and successful Palestinian businessmen, graduates of American universities and even Russians in Hijabs who married Palestinians.

If on the West Bank, the degree of extreme depends on the political situation and weather, then in the Gaza sector Extreme – the norm of life. Shoot here much and tastefully, the benefit of the opposing groups is enough, and the weapon in abundance is transferred through the underground tunnels from Egypt. On the PPC "Ereza" you are held by a gloomy Israeli border guards – and at the end of a long indoor concrete corridor will meet no less gloomy Palestinians. But immediately at the exit you can take a taxi for a whole day, and in the evening the taxi driver shyly will suggest you to decide how much you should. For the day you can go around the entire sector: from the ruins of dismantled Jewish settlements in the north to the border with Egypt in the south. If you are not considered armed people on the streets and a cart with the tormented donkeys, the city of Gas itself is quite drawn to the standard resort: decent hotels with good service, delicious food (especially in fish restaurants – a lot of local residents are trampled fishing), almost virgin beaches. Gas painting lovers will please the abundance of graffiti on the walls – this is the most common way here to express your opinion. Those who do not know Arab are delighted with the need to understand the bloodthirsty meaning of some inscriptions and can freely enjoy bright drawings depicting freedom fighters, chashids, smugglers of weapons and spiritual leaders. And on the nearby wasteland, you can stumble upon a massive training of young people of one of the militarized groups, watch their classes and even piffosing, just do not forget to ask permission. Local souvenirs – Green scarves "Hamas", black masks, portraits of Arafat, Palestine cards without Israel. That’s just with them there may be problems on returning to the territory of Israel.

Big maneuvers

Against the background of war

How to go to Palestine and stay alive

1. Cars with yellow Israeli numbers in Palestinian territories are found, but, as a rule, are not welcome. Therefore, rented in Israel makes sense to leave in the parking lot at the checkpoint and on the other side of it to sit in the Palestinian taxi with a poisonous green number. It is advisable to clarify the locals, to which the hour is running the checkpoint, so as not to get stuck at night where the night was planned.

2. The situation in Palestinian territories is changing unpredictable: it was just quietly, and suddenly a deaf blockade because of some holiday, exercises or regular unrest. If somewhere not allowed, it is better not to download the right and calmly go to another place.

3. Road signs in Palestinian territories are often sealed or stamina, and the road leading to the village may suddenly turn out to be blocked by a stone bomb. So navigate the best in the quality of asphalt. If the road is good, you are most likely on the territory of Israel or on one of the highways laid between Jewish settlements bypassing Palestinian villages. If a bad, blazing "Marhab" or, at worst, "Ahalan".

4. Palestinians have no reasons for tourists from Russia with dislike. Moreover, most of the local intelligentsia – lawyers, engineers, doctors, etc. – studied at the universities of the former USSR. Nevertheless, without a conductor to local residents with questionings, it is better not to pester. There are few tourists in these edges, and they prefer to be knocked into groups, so curious at best can take for a journalist, at worst – for the Israeli spy. But in general, local – extremely welcoming people, and in almost any home you will be offered fragrant coffee and a large delicious peat cake.

5. Weapons in these places there are hardly all. If fate will reduce you with Palestinian militants and you will attract something to them, it is better to refuse to "shoot" a friendly sentence, especially if we are talking about homemade missiles "Kassam". Israeli Air Force team has without warning to produce rockets on shooting.

Against the background of war

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