Cruise from Yakutsk on Lena with a visit to Lensky Pillars
Six-hour flight from Vnukovo passed fine. Flew to Yakutsk early in the morning on Friday. Our ship "Mikhail Svetlov" went to the flight at seven. Ahead was a whole day, and we decided to walk in the city.
V. Putin, being in Yakutsk, said that "there are a lot of dilapidated housing in the city". Although there is a lot of construction, the president’s words are relevant. In the conditions of permafrost to build hard. At home put on stilts, the heating mains pull on the ground, someone called Yakutsk – "the city of guts outward".
The main wealth of Yakutsk is the Alrosa diamond-producing company, it is also built on it the main budget of the Republic of Sakha, work in the company is considered prestigious.
We booted to bus number 9 and for nine rubles reached the historic center of the city. We went to the Transfiguration Church, inspected the Palace of Wedding, went out on the embankment. (However, the embankment is one name, Lena comes to the center of the city only in the flood, and so it is not visible for the bushes of greenery.)
After visited the shopping center built under the old days, I looked at the clock – passed only one hour. Yakutsk in Moscow standards is very small and time here flows in another rhythm.
Decided to walk in the city. Mammoth Museum and the Historical Museum of Impressions did not produce.
The diamond museum did not go, but I really liked the store of souvenirs in the historical center in front of the restaurant "Tavern". The souvenirs were the most different: Mammoth beefs (more expensive than in Moscow on the venice), embroidery from a deer skins, shaman masks and much more.
We arrived in Yakutsk in the early morning, and people were some kind of frowning, but the youth walked for the eleven waking up for the city, which walked around the city.
Along the main street (Lenin Avenue) full of full pawnshops and jewelry stores, they are probably more than grocery. Prices for the jeweler 10-15% lower than in Moscow. Everywhere there is a boyfriend trade, something for rent in Lombard, then more fashionable and modern decorations are bought, but the paradox – women are not worn.
In Uzbekistan, the ladies just sparkle with gold, and here – no. So buy about the stock. In general, Yakutka love silver more, but they are too much.
Yakuta – Turkic-speaking people, externally similar to Kyrgyz and Kazakhs. It is believed that they moved to these edges in 12-13 centuries.
The faces of the Yakuts are very beautiful and diverse. There are faces with alkaline eyes, there are people similar to the Chinese, there are purely Turkic faces.
On the plane, a girl was flying with diagonal blue eyes and dark hair, very unusual and charming, apparently Yukagirika. 70% of Yakuts in Yakutsk. Many Russians left the nineties for big land. Most importantly – women on the streets are twice as bigger, paradise for the grooms.
Men work in watchmaking methods, and despite the fact that there are 21 centuries, many people die in the taiga in winter. I even saw a man without fingers in my arms, probably, frost, the temperature in December-January is lowered below -50c.
An unforgettable impression produced in the restaurant "Tygyn Darhan" Salad "Indigirika" – a sturgeon white fish of two species cutting into small pieces and serves with garlic and rowing sauce. Good Mantles from venison and small Yakut pies.
Taxi in the city from one place to another no more than 150 p., and gasoline prices are 20% higher than Moscow. Very unusual for four, with things to ride at such prices.
At the steamer settled in half the seventh evening without problems. Cabins are very comfortable: two beds, washbasin, toilet and shower. "Mikhail Svetlov" and "Demyan Poor" – two ships performing cruises on Lena. They were built in Austria. I still saw the ship "Krasnodar", he departs from the river station, leaving tourists to the island for a whole day or for a whole night.
We have dinner in the restaurant, and at eight in the evening I fell asleep. The fatigue for the flight. Woke up after half an hour, the whole body was sick, turned on the light and saw a cloud of mosquitoes in the cabin.
The window was not closed, the mosquitoes were injected and bitten very well. I had to take advantage of the balloon. I no longer wanted to sleep, the body was confused, in Moscow there were three days, in Yakutia nine in the evening. Heavenly shovel, hanging on the edge of the sky, thought for a long time, to leave on peace or not, and hid only at 23 o’clock.
But darkness did not come. The sun, left at the site of sunset a piece of pinkish sky with silver clouds, and all this was reflected in the river. In Yakutia, too, there are "white" nights ".
Near Yakutsk, views do not differ much variety. The shores are not cool. The forest is a Christmas tree and some kind of deciduous trees, they grow small, frosts affect.
Steamer, cutting against the flow of the water of the Great Siberian River, sailed past the sandy islets coated with shrubs, (the islets flooded in the flood), well, and the width of Lena in these places 4-7 km.
Near the city there were other vessels, transporting people and cars, but the farther, the shore and the rumble became unless.
Tourists were almost all local.
Even two wedding couples went to the cruise. The people on the ship sang, drank, danced, oral, "delayed" – no one went to bed. In the morning somehow managed to fall asleep, but at 8 h. Captain woke up for breakfast. The weather spoiled, the rain came out, it was windy.
And then on the steamer announced that we approach the Lensky Pillars National Park, it was the main goal of the cruise.
Along the right shore, Lena stretched amazing cliffs, the same height, but completely different in shape. Nature created a masterpiece.
One boulder reminded the frozen giant, another castle with a bridge, the third giraffe, the fourth dragon, the fifth face of a person ..
Rocks stretched along the river for 20-25 km.
I wanted to inspect everything, missing anything. Lowly lowered frowning clouds, gave trees and rocks harsh gloominess.
Running forward, I will say that on the way back the weather has changed.
The blue sky and yellow stones reflected in the waters of the river, as hospitable owners, called to come to Yakutia again.
We respect all local traditions, and therefore it seemed that the millennial cliffs were slightly touched by a smile.
Probably, in the fall, these places in the riot of paints are especially good. They say that they fascinate them in winter. However, it was already ..
The motor ship stopped near the steep mountain. It is this place on the cover of the guide to Yakutia.
Once the pointed cliffs were the bottom of the Lena River, but time passed and everything changed. We had to climb upstairs.
Yakuts almost 4th century ago accepted Orthodoxy. In any case, any Yakut, he believes in the Christian God or not, hitting a new place, will definitely wishes to drop spirits.
Calculate in different ways: or a ribbon to the tree will be tied, or the coin will leave, or the spirit of the fire, the tribute will want to give – the bonfire.
All of us were collected near the monument to the Spirit – the Lord of these places.
Family of Evenks in national costumes showed a rite of food treats.
Father Family Shamanil and spread the fire, men put on the right, women on the left.
We all sang a song on an incomprehensible language, holding hands, drove around the fire, and then, with the wish of good luck, the husband and wife put all the points from the coal on the forehead.
Wanted all happiness, health and, most importantly, successful lifting. Rocks, mountains, forest, river – everything has a soul.
Nature always evaluate a person, reflecting – let him in visit or prevent this.
Two roads lead to top: one cool and dangerous, but fast, other comfortable and fenced, but long. We went long. Top view were awesome, they say these places – a strong energy zone. The remains of primitive people, their caves and rock paintings found on Lensky pillars.
At the top of the mountain, the scientist (local archaeologist) said that soon they should come to these places, representatives of UNESCO, Lensky Pillars want to recognize the world-class monument.
From below, looking at the rocks, it seemed as if they were resting in the sky with their sharp tops, and swimming clouds scratching them and cry for rain. But it is possible that the shaman found good weather. The sun looked out due to clouds. Barbed the droplets on leaves, and was delivered to the trill of some kind of ptah.
The initials of the pristine sand shared on the river, and the sun bunnies reflected in the water began to play on the rocks, which began to seem to seem that harsh stones were buried. Everything around acquired joyful tone.
From the sighting site on the other side of the river, the endless plain was clearly visible, or rather repeating the circumference of the globe of the Green Sea Taiga. Somewhere below, smoke from the fire of Shaman, were heard of the funny exclamations left near the ship.
I felt like a little bug on the body of a living creature, called the planet Earth.
On the top of the columns you can simultaneously have a lifetime, admiring the sunrises and sunsets, drizzling and falling snow, ice-growing and pylons of Lena, a million years in the current one.
I really did not want to part, but everything ends. Having spent on the "Lensky pillars" almost all day, we left the spiritual center of Yakutia.
"Mikhail Svetlov" for a long time and buzzed before leaving to collect tourists.
Warves were very biting, they are twice as much as in Yakutia than in Central Russia, but, by going away from the coast, the hedges and mosquitoes began to blow off the ship by the wind.
At twelve nights in Yakutia, the vessel threw anchor in the middle of the Lena, the team had to relax, and the fun did not stop in the bar. The people walked on the full program.
In the morning we approached the island of Rossolad. It is a sandy island with small trees and shrubs.
In another year, a lake remains on the island after a flood, but we were not lucky, there were only individual puddles.
Tourists began to play volleyball, swim and sunbathe.
Water in the river was about 20 degrees. Bathing, I even drank from Lena – such a clean river.
Surprisingly soft and fine sand, hot from the sun, nice to lie down, but when they shine deep into your hand, – you immediately feel chill, the eternal thoroughness hot weather can not deceive.
While the ship was standing, seeded local fishermen on the motor. The guys caught two sturgeon, almost in hand each. One fiszy they exchanged in a bar for a bottle of vodka. In Yakutsk, we came on Sunday watches at seven in the evening, that is, the cruise lasted exactly two days.
There would be a couple of weeks free, I would definitely be allotted to Tiksi, but you need to adjust the desire to.
In Moscow, I ordered a trip to the Yakut seven Atlas. These people live on the outskirts of the city, near the Sacred Mount of the Mountain "YYTYKHY". Atlasov reproduced by the 17-19 centuries.
There are a lot of old dishes in their house, the doors of the skin with the skin of wolves, there is also the skin of the bear, the complex of the houses will be covered by the bark of trees. Toilet in Yakut houses are always on the street, apparently, in winter do not argue.
Very interesting oven, she has an open fire outlet on three sides of the room, in the frost family members in turn support fire.
Atlasov take guests in national clothes, Yakut folk songs sing.
Their youngest daughter plays perfectly on Homuse. This is such a brass musical instrument with a size of human palm. Sound turns on inhale and exhale.
Very remembered Shaman’s suit hanging in the main room. It has three large metal plaques at the chest level, they are needed if the shaman will rise high on the sky, how the cargo is to go down.
At the level of belly on the ropes metal plate with fish, aspiring up. This is, on the contrary, to return to the top of the kingdom of darkness. I tried three times to take a picture of the suit on my digital camera, but all the pictures were unsuccessful. Special thank atlas family for dinner.
The hostess treated us with fried krasiki, stuffed with eggs with a bow, boiled in the sauce of venison, mantles from stabnoye, an indigilian salad, Yakutski cakes and a moss of taped berries. Very tasty raw liver of a young foal, sliced stringent.
It should be noted that Yakuts eat horses, but their horses are small, not as in Russia. The horse can even get sorrow under the snow, and hobs only with clean products, so its liver – delicacy. There is even such a recipe: the liver is scrolled in the meat grinder in the raw form, divided into small cutlets and exhibit on the frost. To the arrival of guests, a dish is served to the table, you only need to escape to taste before.
Before the site of Atlasov, they held the ceremony of the spirit of the fire, they were walked to everyone on the neck and they said not to shoot them for three hours, promising that she would bring an imperious success.
In the morning in half the tenth aircraft departure. Time was half of the eleventh in the evening, we decided to walk a little. I, my wife and companion Sasha went to the telegraph to call Moscow, and our friend Valera stayed outside. When we went out, saw some kind of woman enters. Pleasant to the view of Yakutka called him to visit.
It is worth noting, Valera, frankly, not a handsome man. He wondered: "How she found out that I was visiting with money?".
And she learned very simple: we all removed in the hotel chambers of the Atlasov, and he is not. The ambulance came, and Valera was frightened ..
When you flew back, the salon was full of string. The plane went through Moscow in Sochi, Yakut family flew to the rest to the sea. Sitting rear little children have broken me through the chair all the back. Ahead of the family from Tiksi for the first time traveled by the plane, constantly discussing how they will rest and swim in the sea.
In short, I could not sleep, but we were very happy and satisfied with the trip.
Since 2012, Lensky Pillars The UNESCO World Heritage Site, from August 6, 2018 found the status of the Russian National Park.