Desire, attraction, morocco.
Morocco deceives expectations. What comes the traveler in the west of North Africa, absolutely does not coincide with the paintings from Arab fairy tales drawn by his imagination. Morocco’s world is fantastic, more exotic, striking and strange any dreams. The first impressions of the country are bright, almost white from the heat of the sky, the ringing voice of Mullah, having shouting from the top of the mosque during Namaz, (once six per day, but always unexpectedly) and horizontally inverted sickle of the moon. Colors of indigo, ocher and terracotta, sprinkled clay houses of pinkish-carminous shades, intoxicating smells of smoke, spices, mint, leather, cats and donkey urine.
Get into Morocco, bypass Casablanca, impossible. All international flights fly to local airport. But this does not mean that in the city with a beautiful title and an edulic eclectic building is worth spending more than one day. French colonials built up Casablanca on the European Federation from the combination of European architecture and Arab mentality, it is so strange and looks. City is full of regulators, ordering Brownian traffic on the streets of whistles and energetic gestures. Catching a taxi, you can go to the largest mosque of the Muslim world, built on a specially sprinkled peninsula, bringing it a grand construction in the open ocean. Mosque, open to visit tourists (naturally, barefoot), beautiful. This is a masterpiece of applied arts of thread and modeling, mosaic works, inlays. It is posted green, burgundy and pink marble polished like a mirror. Multicolored mosaic kilometers pattern Moroccan meditative attitudes for life. Imagine that in our time someone lays out pieces of glazed ceramics in size in a centimeter Adorable ornaments on the walls, columns and floors, you can only here. Not far from the mosque in the restaurant "La Mer" All the luxuries of seawater are waiting for you. She is one of the two main gastronomic components of Moroccan Grevia. In coastal areas, you enjoy Langstami and incredibly thick oysters, and in the depths of the country with fragrant and sharp meat dishes, kebabs with spices, stewed vegetables and soups. Kitchen "on an amateur" very quickly becomes truly beloved as soon as you try "Tajin" Cooked in a special clay dishes under a clay cap stewed meat with vegetables and fantastic seasonings.
FES. Venice desert.
The former capital of Morocco city is striking. The location in the depths of the country informs the climate of the continental sharpness of the day and night temperatures. Despite the hot sun in the afternoon, at night you will knock your teeth from the cold. Fez is some kind of exotic authenticity of local exotic. The clay medieval city of the VIII century is protected by UNESCO, with the support of which in Fez regularly restore the ancient Arab Palaces of Riada. Galled buildings of the color of the desert crept slowly and steadily, so over time the city will disappear in the sands, as Venice ever dives in the sea. On each facade by windows inside (typical architecture specificity for heat protection and maintaining the microclimate All windows overland courtyard) flavor satellite dish. FESSA MEDINA (Old Town) One of the largest and old and old in the country. In her confusing streets it is better not to deepen without accustomed. Immersion in the flesh of the medieval Moroccan city feeling drunk. Locals hold with the congenital dignity of natives of the former cultural and religious center of the country.
We look into the abandoned madrasas, in art salons, where vintage bronze lamps are sold with colored glasses, camel bone chests, ceramics, flanged metal and carpets. They are amazing, divided into Arabic (with an intricate ornament and a high mild pile) and Berber (with a funny primitive drawing on the bright background and similar to the sucker). Sellers, habitually sentencing compliments about your impeccable taste, we sworn in front of buyers, raised dust and some kind of special condo, one by one works of art of carpetdom. As soon as you drown and expressed our admiration, the attack continues with the rated force. But at the same time, sellers never (with the exception of insane kilometer bazaars in Marrakesh) nothing will be imposed on and stress a hundred times that all demonstration performances are made exclusively for pleasure. However, if you have already accepted the inner decision and are ready to bring two three meters to gloomy Moscow, start bargaining. And if you are firm, the price will decrease threefold against the initial.
To soften you a long test of relevant bargaining, in any bench or salon you are offered mint tea. It is served in the Melchior Tea, it is brewed with leaflets of live mint and plenty of sugar, bottled into transparent green or blue cups and must be foaming. Abandoning tea means to act as perfect ignorant and savage in the eyes of the welcomes, even if not always disinterested owners.
The streets of Medina, so narrow that the sun never penetrates there, you make your way in a dense, ashabulously spectacular crowd of local residents. Men in Cashmere Jalabach (Something like a robe with a hood, worn through the head, performs the functions of the outerwear) and bright yellow grandmothers (type of slippers) on the bosu’s leg moves leisurely. Women in lighter and flirty jalabs with tassels at the ends of the hoods do not always close the face. Some on the ankles looking very sexually chinful patterns. The customs of the Muslim world are blurred here. The boys carry fresh bread from the bakery, the orange traders are located right on the street with their overcrowded fruit boxes, the loaded horse makes his ways down the street on which the prohibition sign hangs: donkey in a red circle. Right of the inlaid vintage mosaic wall beats the source, and children run to a cool jet with buckets, because there are no water pipes in every house.
Of the strongest impressions of Fez, a trip to a ceramic factory, a visit to the leather production and a walk through the night medina. Dishes and vases made of heavy faience are made by an old handicraft manual, samples are manually and, that is pleasant, used in everyday life, unlike souvenir products Khokhloma and Gzheli. The oven throws such black smoke clubs that they can be seen even from the city center. Ornaments Typically Arab, fascinating and resembling Andalusia not only in colors blue, yellow, green. Moorish influence can be traced everywhere. Visiting leather production adventure is not for the faint of heart. From the top platform of the factory, huge chains with paints and chemical compositions for skin treatment are visible. Enchanting in them, semi-naked legs with legs stir the skin in the dye. The degree of harmfulness of production, given the cold water, calculate themselves. Around the skins are dried. Smell fainting. But products are very beautiful and diverse. Leather and suede selected to tissue subtlety.
At midnight, we go to walk around the medina, on which the windows of our exquisite-east hotel Palace Jamai are published. The exciting empty streets of a medieval city, highlighted and unrecognizable at night, turned out to be completely safe. We were offered support, a company and hashish, as well as, having emerged ahead of the door of an absolutely empty restaurant, tried to comprite a coupon with intermediary services, saying: "And here is a restaurant, now we will organize you a table". Awakened musicians who dreamed in deserted darkness, convulsively wrapped around, played on the riche instruments, not understanding the reasons for our impolite laughter.
Marrakesh. Pomegranate color.
Marrakesh color, unlike a calm clay shade of Fez, pink, terracotta, gentle-coral. Although this is the romantic, what is in the city. After unhurried fes, Marrakesh seems insanely active. This, of course, the illusion is just here more tourists, and it gives rise to some excitement. Medina Marrakesh Huge, Infinite Market "Suk". Those who have already adapted to the local flavor may arise a subconscious sensation of the Eastern Megapolis. Honest word, on the very first day I delved to the Marakesh Bazaar’s labyrinth, I easily published back to the market square later only three hours. Head ranked and buzzed from the abundance of information, in the eyes of Ryabilo from colorful ceramics, jabla, mountains of spices and dried fruit. Endless tangled transitions of trading rows tighten as a drug.
In general, on the rhythm and style of the local life can be easily "collide". For some Europeans, he has no comparable charm. It is not by chance yesterday’s tourists are enchanted in Morocco with their own real estate. For example, Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Berez bought in the 80s in the center of Marrakesh. Since 1921, it was located here "Majorelle garden", French artist and scientist-enthusiast, a lover and collector of the local flora. Traveling around the country, where he first came, trying to recover from tuberculosis, Jacques Majorelle is famous for the fact that the painted ceiling of the most famous hotel in Morocco Matoipga. After the death of the scientist in 1962, the garden fell into neglect, and only the new owners of the world of French haute couture regained its beauty. Villa Saint Laurent is difficult to see even in a fence slot, but the garden is open to visitors. The beauty of combining buildings, fountains and gazebos thick indigo with luxurious subtropical vegetation, amazing. The former studio in the heart of the Majorelle garden now houses the Museum of Islamic Art.
In Marrakech, it is difficult to get lost also because there is practically everywhere visible ancient mosque Koutoubia, near which begins the central market square Djemaa el Fna. By popular French café with a terrace and a view of the opening Brasserie du Glacier area is approaching a number of tourist buses, the first level is literally drowning in the exhaust gases and dust. But the tradition of coffee or mint tea in this place above all. After dark area transformed bizarre. The main stage the city at night Djemaa el Fna. Her take fortune-tellers, tellers of fairy tales and legends, snake charmers, musicians Gnawa (descendants of black slaves from the Sahara), dancers, actors, jugglers and acrobats. In the gathering darkness were coals braziers, which is very neat chefs in white hats preparing kebabs, roasted vegetables on the grill, potato. Do not be afraid of eating on the street, she is no different from the restaurant, perhaps ten times cheaper. If you refuse, you are strongly advised to remember the number of the table and return "barbecue" Lightweight. Burdened by dinner, we make our way to the moving curiosity by torchlight group: the show transvestites, repulsive and alluring at the same time. It seems that you find yourself in the Middle Ages. Some market peaceful, wild and sinister dances, a feast during the plague. Nasty old man moving like a wooden doll. Near the sparkling young man, disguised as a girl. Seeing cameras targeted on them, require money. Also come beggars and beggars.
A complete contrast of what is happening on the market area is the most gorgeous Marrakesh Hotel Matoipga Grandiose, fashionable, beloved yet Churchill, Roosevelt, de Galember, Chaplin and Marlene Ditrich itself, consisting mainly of the rooms "lux" And overflowing at any time of the year. Gardens around the hotel stretch into several hectares and resemble paradise bush. Grapefruit or orange, torn there, spreads straight squeezing flavor. During the heyday of Hippy Marrakesh, as well as all Morocco, was a kind of mecca "Children flowers". The availability and legality of drugs and a kind of twisting in the trance Arab-African music captured and fascinated many. Jimmy Hendrix was so bought to the soul to Morocco, which got a beautiful house on the coast and was going to buy a few more kilometers of the beach, but did not have time. Nursing American music has been fueled by African juices, and Morocco’s rattling mixture was one of the favorite ingredients.
Es-sauire. Mogador flower.
Along the previations of high satin goes the road from Marrakesh on the coast. The purpose of our rally is not a resort tourist center Agadir, and Es-Savaire an elegant place nearby. The old name of the port Mogador reminds about times when Portuguese-Seaizians were in force. Islands around the coast with ancient times were called "Purple", Since the needleless mollusks living here, since ancient times, Purple, dismantled throughout the Mediterranean. How does Es-Savaire do not look like other Moroccan cities! This Mediterranean port, what many in Spain and Greece, gives preference only to two colors of white and azure. On the ocean, there are snow-white houses, looking away in the distance by blue windows.
Although Es-Savaire is Medina, the city is striking by perpendiculars of streets and a slim building plan, compare which pulls exclusively with the pioneer of St. Petersburg. The reason is simple: In the XVIII century, the Mogador declined was invited to rebuild the French architect Theodore Korean. Fortified, he became absolutely impregnable for attacks from the sea and sushi, acquired a reputation as a diplomatic capital Morocco and began to resemble the sea French fortresses somewhere in Brittany.
Today’s es-sauire is very refined province. After the French authorities threw the forces on the resuscitation of ports in Casablanca and Agadir, economic life here was slowed down. But in contrast, a surge of tourist interest and the flowering of the arts happened. None in the Moroccan city does not have such a number of art galleries, art salons and actual artists. Dizhiotype is aggravated by the smells of the Tui, from which cute little things are made, countertops, sculptures, furniture and sold right away for a barbecue in countless galleries. Taken from a wet ocean climate, they can deform, so it is best to choose something small and crazy from a solid piece of wood.
Es-Savaire Land Promised. Many Europeans and Americans found their homeland here. Whole streets overlooking the ocean purchased by Swiss, French, Germans. They managed to evaluate the beauty of the city and do not want to part with him for a long time. Live, admire the daily sunset from the fortress walls, go to the market for vegetables and to the port for fish, buy spices and medicines from a familiar pharmacist in a beam in the bazaar. There, among the dried stuffed animals and living chameleons, it is possible to purchase preparations of pre-natural paint for lips and a mineral used as an eye stamp, fantastic seasonings for meat and fish, tea, huhu, folk drugs from a cold, bronchitis, poisoning, aphrosis (exciting means) for women and men. The latest roots of the magic plant Mandragora, resembling human figures, trusheys, add them to food together with seasonings. Effect expect in half an hour.
The most colorful place Es-Savier port. Old ships with irradiated on the bottoms of orange, green and blue paint, bunches of multicolored flags, mountains of large networks, anchors Magnificent entourage for the photographer. Sugley port seagulls are so spoiled that it is meaningless to lure them. Want to see them closer to fish. Very impressive and spread out on the embankment of a string of street cafes. It’s not at all what you thought. Right pastors of local fishermen are preparing right on the roaster on your eyes, which go to the sea twice a day. Accordingly, all the products of the sea are the freshest. You can enjoy you fried sardine, huge Caracatians, crabs, squid and other liveliness for fresh orange or tangerine juice.
If you want not a naked, but an elegant service is the time to visit the vintage restaurants in the port. Chez Sam and Chezjannote – institutions with age-old history. Walls are taken off with old maps, photographs of the 20s, portraits of movie stars and bills. Full illusion that you are on board the old ship, aggravated by seagulls outside the window. Cute young man-waiter, having learned that we are the first Russians in Es-Savaire, offers after dinner to walk in the city. In the desert evening medina, we celebrate friends of our new acquaintance and decide right there to have a drink for acquaintance. It turns out a big problem. According to the law of the Muslim state, alcoholic beverages are prohibited by local residents. And foreigners can be. We order beer without any problems and undermine the conversation. Bar Hotel Des Isle at night works underground, as in times "Dry Law" in the USA.
Our new acquaintances are very simple Mustafa, Hassan, Side, Mohammed, Abdullah. Thanks to the Russian Folk Film "White sun of desert". One of the guys turns out to be a musician local celebrity, almost self-taught and nugget, the participant of all musical festivals on the coast. He invites us to visit. We kindly accept the invitation. Kerim philosopher in life and owner of one-bedroom apartment with an incredibly cool staircase. The spectacular appearance of the GNAU, confused black hair, a red cap combined with a virtuoso playing on the drum conquers us immediately. Professional guitarist virtuoso Magid Handsome with a curly mane and a dazzling smile connects tools to the amplifier. It’s good that the apartment is located in the area of markets and neighbors will not knock on the wall. They play everything and dance too.
The way Arab men are dancing in Morocco, it is impossible to describe in words: they move much plastic, greasy and sensitive women. Music, singing and dances are a rattling mix of Arab, African, fatal and jazz traditions. Elastic rhythm on the one hand and tightening meditative relaxation with another hypnotize. It is known that the music of Gnaua is the best tool to plunge into trance. After one and a half hours of musitizing and the Tajik brought from a nearby restaurant, life begins to seem honey. Later, returning from the parties, we drive up to the ocean. Over the anthracite water mirror horizontally hangs a distinctly bug moon and stars. Sunset this or the sunrise of the moon is unclear. But her color is stunning. Color Morocco.