Domesticated woodland

North town
The ladder "gut" met us with photographs of snow-covered, frozen in the frosty air. We are definitely in Lapland and a suitcase scored by warm things – very by the way.
On the street I was waiting for a completely different landscape – the warm sun and the unshaced paints from the paintings of Claude Monet. Only we got into the car, the taxi driver extended in English, almost without accent: "Delightful autumn, warm and sunny. No rain ".
All the way, who took no more than fifteen minutes, I looked at the provincial Finland – in the yard, on the rope, the woman has just wrapped in lingerie, grandmother, with a backpack on his back, lazily twisted the pedals. Exactly beveled grass, crumbling lakes and rivers. Dwarf City by 60 thousand inhabitants and lowered houses.

In search of a guest house, a taxi driver was a little confused – a two-storey cottage was hammered into the very corner of the street Akhkiomania. While the car spoiled in the alley, the driver kindly stopped the counter.
If I was asked, reminds whether Rovaniemi is Russian north, I nodded my head. Yes – birch trees, spruce, pines, coltsfoot, dandelions and lops – I did not have time to get bored in a small homeland. True, there was one difference – the air of Rovaniemi warms up with a golfustrim, bringing a silk western wind as a gift. We are accustomed to the rimpted, unhone eastern.

In the first days, the city riddled a riddle. And only on the third evening, walking along the lake Kirkkolambola, I realized that I was pursued from the very arrival – a resinous aroma of coniferous trees and honey with a savage. Rovaniemi, like a large aroma lamp, which never evaporates the essential oil. To the smell quickly get used to, but also afraid to quickly fall.
Even before the trip, I was told that the city is safe and you can walk late. Leaving things in the guest house, I went towards the center, not even hoping to achieve it – the road seemed longer on the map. Thart of forty minutes, I was already walking along the pedestrian street by Maakuntakatu, bypassed Lordi’s monument – named this Finnish group, winning Eurovision in 2006 and comes from Rovaniemi, the central square is named in the city.
After the Nevsky or Garden Ring, the deserted center of Rovaniemi resembles a Western frames – a launched city, dust clubs, thrown taverns. Only in one open restaurant in the window I spied the sick conversation of the only visitors – couples on a date. On the square of Lordi, I practitioned on the board of six skaters, leaning back on the bench, was accompanied by Finnish men in the past. Meters in a hundred poded Finn was incomparably soldered, but not finding a grateful public, turned away away. And I went to the side of the house. For the week of Rovaniemi – my home.

Student town
Rovaniemi – a young city destroyed in 1944, erased in dust and rebuilt to the sixtieth. In 1979, Lapland University opened here. Five thousand students and six hundred employees, including teachers, form the center of attraction of urban life today.
The University has a student council. Its members are issued a map in which you can get discounts on public transport or dine in a university cafe for three euros. From the session to the session, students live fun – such Finnish students do not know. They have no test session in December or May and cooking cribs on January and June exams. Lapland students take standings and exams during the semester – listening to the course of lectures, write essays or teach tickets, form – at the discretion of the teacher.
Finnish students are not accustomed to walk – free education trains responsibility. If you missed a lecture or seminar, I did not receive loans, t.E. points, which means you need to try to catch up with fellow students and dial the cherished glasses to go to the next course. Walking classes accumulate very quickly. Because in Finland there is not even a chance to pay for study, the competition to universities is very high and students are afraid to fly.

Returning somehow in the evening, I turned to a wooden path leading to a two-story gazebo on the shore of the lake. To meet me a woman in a sporty suit, winding on the wrist of a nordic stick strap. We exchanged friendly Hey-Hey. While I inhaled fresh air, rising above the Harulampi Lake, and listened to the negotiations of the ducks, drove a young man on a bike and, putting the wheels, ran around the steps to the second tier. Spicy sunset barely concerned water.

In the morning, passing along the lake, I noticed the pointer to the gazebo – Lintutorni. Google suggested – Tower for bird observation.

Domesticated woodland

Sports town
In St. Petersburg, build houses with emphasized "Finnish" balconies. In Rovaniemi is not just wide, square and glass balconies. It is rocking chairs, blankets, wicker tables and flowers in pots. About meditative serenity Remind and places for kebabs – charred land and gazebo on the banks of the River Lainaas. It’s not just a wrency of nature, there is another – love.
Evenings on the way to the house I met the same people. After work, which ends usually at four o’clock, the Finns are not joining the TV at home – who has enough sticks for a nordic walk, who is converted into sneakers, someone just walks along the lakes, especially the elderly couple. Finland literally obsessed in sports. To work and home Finns get on bicycles, there are cars, but the bike is worth each house and entry. Maybe so in a week I saw only two girls in skirts. Visiting students, the Chinese, Indians or Russians, adopt the habit and buy the most simple bikes. Like the ancient rattling two-wheels, old cars go on the roads, exactly as in American Cinema of the 70s.
The next day, as I arrived, the University Hall to Lunch occupied sports centers – promotional stands, there is a blood pressure on the analysis to determine the chemical composition and selection of diet and exercise. The same day was the shortest working day – Sports Afternoon. Twice a year, in the fall and spring, the University’s leadership announces a sports noon and lets employees from work so that those spent the afternoon with the use in the gym or in air.

Forest town
I spent my penalched day on the Sopalka Ounasvaara. In winter, it is a ski resort, in summer and in the spring, you can get there to go on a hike and roll off from the wrapped tracks into the school, and of course, the traditional Nordic walking, running and mountain bike – the best autumn day.

There are no homeless dogs in Rovaniemi. Instead of them in fallen leaves squirrels. Fucking and cautious, they are not at all like manual beggars of Peterhof or Pavlovsk. There enough to pat yourself on the shoulder so that the animal immediately jumped and sled in the hope of delicacy.

***
In Rovaniemi, the Buddhism is official religion, but Lutheranism and Orthodoxy, but it is for enveloping the relaxation and slowness that this city loved me so. Over the habit of spending evenings at the lake. For the friendly smiles of citizens who are jokingly called themselves forest residents. For cozy streets and hospitable forest.

Domesticated woodland

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