Dostoevsky: "All this europe is one fantasy"
16-year-old Dostoevsky "There was continuously in the mind of a novel from Venetian life". In childhood, sobbed over the novels Radcliffe. Read in Racin, Balzac, Goethe, Schiller. At 22, I translated Ezhena Xu and Georges Sand. But get there where the heroes of favorite books lived, f. M. was able to only 41 years. Since then, he went to Europe more than once, lived there in the aggregate of five and a half years. And concluded: to live abroad "very boring, anywhere".
Country of volumes and expectations
Then, in 1862, he first "galloping around the cast-iron" (railway. – approx. Red.) And I did not believe my happiness: "How this will see, finally, Europe. The country of such long volumes and expectations of my, such persistent my beliefs "? For two and a half months Fedor Mikhailovich was going to visit more than 20 cities: Berlin, Paris, London, Geneva, Dresden, Cologne, Florence, and T. D., Do not hoping, of course, comprehend everything: "Let not see anything in detail. But from all seinned something like a whole, some common panorama. Whole country "Saints wonders" I will imagine at once … "did not work.
Here, of course, the wine and too tight route ("Does it be possible to see anyone’s decent things, passing so much roads in two and a half months?"), And Dostoevsky himself. With his own, gently expressing, complex character, seizures of epilepsy and years cautious.
Germany: flash of vulnerable patriotism
Berlin, in which he was in the first trip just a day, produced "the most sour impression". And why? Because he "Two days grew the cast-iron through the rain and fog to Berlin and, having arrived in him, not sleeping, yellow, tired, broken, suddenly, at first glance, noticed that Berlin was like the incredibility like Petersburg. Phew, my god, I thought to myself: Well worth it yourself two days in the car break down, to see the same thing from which rode?"
Concluding that the Germans the habit "very difficult to make in large masses," he slipped in Dresden. And what? "I suddenly fancied. that there is nothing more repulsive type Dresden Women ". The reason for that, as acknowledged by the writer himself, was a sick liver, "And really, really man, this king of nature, to the point of the whole depends on their own liver – I thought – what a meanness!"
A similar story happened with the Cologne Cathedral. Then he seemed F. M. "Haberdashery bagatelle like seventy-high paperweight on the desk fathoms". But, says Dostoevsky, hold it in Berlin, Dresden, Cologne and the same, it could be perceived differently. Will shine a ray of sunshine on the cathedral, "and the building probably would have seemed to me to present his light, and not as in the overcast and even a few rainy morning, that was able to call me only one flash of wounded patriotism".
F. M. more than once I have been in Germany. In Dresden alone spent a total of two and a half years. But the miracle did not happen. He is still admired the paintings of the Dresden Gallery and despised Germans.
Paris: French crush you with its indescribable nobility
I had to run in so long imagined in dream Paris, where he worked his "Human Comedy" his beloved Balzac – a city of spirituality and enlightenment. At acquaintance with him I was laid for a month, not counting the week absences in London.
Somewhere near here – Victor Hugo, only published his "Les Miserables", in walks these streets Theophile Gautier. But Dostoevsky is not seeking meetings with them – he was homesick for Russia. Paris seems to him boring, and the French – false: "All of them have a surprisingly refined look. At most dastardly Frenchman, who for a quarter you sell your own father … so impressive posture, that you even attacks perplexing. Enter the store Buy something, and the last cradle will distribute, just gives you to his inexplicable nobility ". Without having spent in Paris and the week, he concludes: the interests of Paris are empty, love them is only a fake.
Ten years. I dreamed of won. Dreamed seriously, passionately. Now all is over!
The historian and literary critic Eugene de Vogyue said how they were sitting on the terrace of the English cafe and Dostoevsky, suddenly grown around, uttered a whole speech – about Europe in general and Paris in particular: "The prophet will appear among the nights in Café Anglais and write three fiery words on the wall. They will serve as a signal of the death of the old world, Paris will collapse in blood and fires with everything that is now his pride, with all its theaters and coffee houses. »Ten days later, the exposure was serving in London.
London: Everything craves and rushes at the first oncoming
The city, perhaps, impressed. Rather frightening. "Even outwardly, what’s the difference with Paris. This day and night is a fussy and immense, like the sea, city, screech and howling machines, these castle, laid on top of the houses (and soon under the houses), this courage of enterprise, this apparent mess, which is essentially a bourgeois order in the highest degree in essence, This poisoned Thames, this air, soaked with coal coal, these are magnificent squares and parks, these terrible corners of the city, like Waitchepel, with its half-range, wild and hungry population ".
He is even ready to admit that "all over the world there is no such beautiful type of women like Englishwomen, but only in order to tell about the quarter of red lanterns and again to push the foreheads" Glitter and poverty ":" The streets are lit by gas beams, which We do not have the concepts. Magnificent coffee shops, diluted with mirrors and gold, at every turn. Here and gathering, here and shelters. Even terribly enter this crowd. And so strange it is compiled. Here and the old women, here and beauties, in front of which you stay in amazement … All this with difficulty crowds in the streets, closely, densely. The crowd does not fit on the sidewalks and fills all the street. All this craves her extraction and rushes with shameless cynicism on the first oncoming ".
Crystal Palace, London
Among London attractions, Dostoevsky celebrates a crystal palace, which was built from glass and metal to the World Exhibition of 1851. This is the most building that dreamed of showing the hero of his "Notes from the underground".