Dreams about Tahiti
Visiting the former overseas corners of the Russian Empire, I could not imagine that royal officials and ministers due to "extreme range and disability of land lands for the state of the Russian" "to Alaska" "sucked" Another paradise abode on Earth, open not least by the efforts of Russian travelers. And the Russian names on the map of this wonderland are still reminded by thousands of visitors from all over the world tourists about the emperor Alexandra, Field Marshal Suvorov and the navigators-discoverers of Bellinshausen and Wittgenstein.
Officials without feathers
In fact, to Tahiti from Russia to get much more difficult than, let’s say, in Antalya or even in Thailand. From Moscow with four transplants to fly here 38 hours, but from our Far East – only 18. The most remote overseas territory of France, which lives in French laws, keeps the Paris etiquette rules, is considered to be not only the most elite place to relax in the world, but also the most murderous – on the high cost of services provided here.
Tahiti Islands occupy an area of equal to the whole old woman in the ocean. If you imagine on the European map that Tahiti is Paris, then the most remote to the east atoll Gambier would be on the site of Romania, the Marquis Islands (where the artist Paul Gajen died on the whole world) – on the place of Stockholm, and the Austral Islands group Place Spain.
The distance here is simply space: from Tahiti to London 15,500 kilometers, to American Los Angeles – 6,600 kilometers (8 hours of flight), 5,700 kilometers – to Australian Sydney, to Tokyo – 9,400 kilometers (11 hours 30 minutes in air). Well, to the native French metropolis – as many as 17,000 kilometers.
The first settlers fell out of Asia to Polynesia Islands in 1000 BC, and since then, Taitian Polynesians have been used exclusively to relatively native canoes as transport. Such a super concrete can be up to 30 meters long and hold onto your "board" up to 30 people, with one oral steering wheel.
And only with the opening of FAAA airport in Papeethte in 1960 (before this connection with the islands was only the sea) Tahiti’s life slowly began to change.
The capital of Tahiti itself is the city of Papeethte (translated from Polynesian – "bucket with water") – For many years was a large whaling port, where the King of the Polynesian Pomar and his family lived. During the years of gold fever in America, it was from here to distant California, oranges, and after joining Tahiti to France, both Europeans and the Chinese began to move to this paradise island.
Today, all citizens of Tahiti have French passports, every year the best students of secondary schools of 118 local islands (of which only 67 inhabited) is a caring metropolis provides scholarships for free training in Sorbonne and other prestigious universities. Local Taitian President can make trade agreements at least with the Mayor of Vladivostok without the knowledge of Jacques Shirak. That’s just if someone wants to visit Tahiti from there, then for a visa will have to contact Paris – Polynesians so far do not let any responsibility.
There is no mosque on Tahiti (all residents – Catholics or Protestants), there are no mosquitoes and other harmful insects (all their constantly blowing marine breeze). On weekends Men wearing traditional Polynesian apron "Maro", From the soul to criticize in an at least traditional local drum called "Paho". And women in colorful cape "Ahu" (By the way, the famous pareo, which first appeared on Tahiti, was brought to the islands in the XVI century by the Spaniards) selflessly blow into the most popular musical instrument on the islands – sea shell Pu.
In terms of life, Tahiti ranks second in the Pacific Ocean after New Zealand, and more than 200 thousand tourists visit these islands every year. Half of them from the USA, and 30 percent – the Japanese.
Tahiti’s population – 245 thousand people, of which 75 percent are Polynesians, 15 percent – Europeans and 10 are Chinese who control the entire retailers and the banking sector of the islands. Immigrants from Europe here are called gentle "pop" with an emphasis on the second syllable, and the minimum salary of Polynesians – "Total" 1200 dollars a month (less employer has no right – put in prison). True, the prices of everything on Tahiti is not a couple of Moscow, then you mean four times higher. But no one among the locals while to protest on this occasion to the streets of the capital of Papeethte does not.
Nicely lives on Tahiti and local officials. Until 1923, bird feathers were used as money on Tahiti, and today the ordinary minister of the Government of the islands receives 3 thousand not feathers per month, and the real dollars (exactly so much pay to the Russian premiere).
Here you love to fly on a business trip all without exception Ministers of the Government of the Mother of Mother France. They believe that thereby seems to emphasize the importance of Tahiti for the metropolis. And the inhabitants of the islands themselves are sure in the opposite: just less than a week from Paris in such a distance will not fly, and the official business trips on Tahiti happen from French officials almost always in winter, when it is cold in France, and in Tahiti – the real paradise.
Until 1996, France was on Tahiti held their nuclear tests (on the uninhabited atoll of Murururoa), generously financing for this island budget from the State Clause. Then the explosions stopped, and the French leaders decided that there is no point in pamping the government to Tahiti: the subsidies were reduced exactly half.
Having offended by Paris, the local authorities of the islands took a course on independence from the metropolis, and since 2004 Tahiti received the status of the overseas country of France. This means that Tahiti now seems to be an absolutely independent state, but the metropolis still retains control over defense, foreign policy, customs and immigration services Tahiti.
Actually letters "B" In Taitian language, there is no, and introduced it in speech job Captain James Cook, who first sailed to this island. The Englishman called this island of Bolabola for those sounds that have been published when meeting with a palecase local natives.
The world-famous politicians, retired generals and admirals, the richest people of our planet – all of them, at least once visiting Bora Bora, call the island the most wonderful in the world. True, B "World lens exclusivity" The island with a stunning beauty of the lagoon got back in 1942, when the US military was built on a small coastal island-bluette runway for their transport aircraft.
In the midst of the Second World War here, away from the fighting, housed the most Blouth Base of the US Air Force. It served more than five thousand soldiers and officers, and it is these "Military air tourists" became the first to have told the rest of the world about the unearthly beauties of Bora Bora.
Then the island arrived Hollywood directors and actors who not only decided to shoot their "Happing fairy tales", But they began to slowly buy cozy bungalows on the boron. Les near Bora Bora Tethinoa Island and is at all actually the personal property of the famous actor Marlon Brando. In 1966 he took the island for rent for 99 years and once a week hesitates tourists.
It is interesting that earlier Tethyroa belonged to the dental doctor of the royal family Tahiti, but then the doctor was executed (apparently, poorly cured the teeth of the monarch of the monarch), and the island was put up for auction. It is on this island that the famous film was shot "Riot on the ship "Bounty".
On Bora-Bora bought personal bungalows-huts on piles such not essential inhabitants of Hollywood, like Jack Nicholson, John Travolta, "Agent 007" Pierce Brosnan and many others. In the six-star hotels, which are made up 100-150 meters from the shore, luxurious bungalows (their main feature – sliding with a backlit table with a glass base in each room, through which you can directly communicate with sailing in the evenings with gray sharks, huge sizes with marine skates -Mints and multi-colored tropical fish), they will settle those who at Bora-Bora will be infrequent, that is, 5-6 a year (Sharon Stone, Kate Winslet, Eddie Murphy and someone else).
The Japanese on Bora-Bor will cope with a honeymoon, and an unusual spectacle than Japanese newlyweds, on the islands, perhaps, do not. The inhabitants of the country of the rising sun love to order a breakfast in the bungalow, which are brought along the water on a real long pie (it costs 100 dollars), and in the evening – dinner under the star sky on the shore of the lagoon (320 dollars per person).
Only Japanese newlyweds are ordered on a boron-boron local "hit" – Polynesian wedding ceremony. It costs $ 1,000 for a whole day and includes personal pie, translator, photographer (including underwater), as well as a real Polynesian picnic on an uninhabited island in the midst of the Pacific.
I asked at the managers of the most luxurious hotels on Bora-Bora, do not sail whether our compatriots come here, about monetary generosity and travelers whose legends are told in other parts of the world. Over the past ten years, two couples from Russia managed their honeymoon here, and another young couple visited Bora-Bor recently in the framework of their parents of the World Tour (they drove out only for different countries of the Pacific Ocean for almost three months and looked at Bora-Bora to chat with "Hollywood comrades").
Russian tourists could fly to Tahiti and to this day, and not as abroad, but as in the Caucasus or in Crimea. True, they opened these lands not at all Russian subjects: the first of Europeans on the island of Tahiti sailed English Captain Samuel Wallis in 1767. A year later, the French navigator Antoine de Bougorville landed here (he called Tahiti Cyter by the name of the Motherland Aphrodites, the Greek Goddess of Beauty and Love), and later the famous British Captain James Cook renamed them to the Islands of the Company (in memory of his visit to Tahiti he brought A gift to the English king of the first Polynesian named Omai in Europe).
In the following years, Charles Darwin was visited here, Somerset Moem, an artist with the world glory Paul Gaen. He twice lived on Tahiti and glorified these islands with his picturesque canvases, in which in various poses were mainly depicted by local beauties-taitians – both in clothes and without her.
Believe Tahiti and Marquis Islands. This is the most remote archipelago, lying at a distance of 1200 km from the capital of Papeethte (3 hours 30 minutes of summer). There are no such luxurious lagoons like on Bora Bora, and the jungle, mountains and waterfalls around. Opened the islands purely by chance in 1595 Portuguese Pedro de Kirush, and only at the end of the XVIII century several Catholic missionaries arrived here.
Emperor Alexander’s Atoll
And in 1804, the Marquis Islands could become Russians – the sailors from the ships of Captain Cruzenshtern craft landed during its round-the-world campaign. As usual, in the distant St. Petersburg there was a detailed deppendence on this occasion – that, they say, do with the islands? The people take Russian well, carry fruit-vegetables by saroshits, from local women there is no save.
Depesh, as it turned out, went to Russia for too long. As a result, Kruzenshtern and his markese ships left, and in St. Petersburg about whether the islands of the islands under the Russian crown or not, he was once a few more years (they say, confused by Russian state husbands that cannibalism was officially authorized on the markets who canceled the French already in 1879).
As a result, imperial officials did not take care of joining the crown "Russian Polynesia". But the France of the time was not lost in a gift and in 1842 she declared his protectically the island of Nuki Khiva, covered with completely stone statues entucing called "Tika".
Near – on the island of Hiva Oa – and the master is buried "Primitive exotic" Paul Gajen. In the museum in Papeethte, its engravings, sculptures and canvases made by gouache. By the way, 15 polyegen paintings are stored now in the Hermitage, and 16 – in Pushkin Museum.
Did not attend Russian and the atoll of fakarava, which "again" Opened for European civilization in 1820 BELLENSGAUZEN.
And again about raising the Russian flag over the islands, it was necessary to ask in the distant northern capital. In the meantime, the imperial assistants pretended, whether in these overseas atolls and the islands, what the benefits of Russia were planted on the atoll of Fakarav, and after a few years, France proclaimed him with his own ownership.
About 700 people live on the atoll. Even very competent islanders either about Russia, nor about who actually discovered these islands, do not know anything. But carefully monitor the TV for the Family Football Championship, but a photo of the captain "tricolor" Zidan hang in the corner of huts as an icon.
If you carefully look at the modern map of the French Polynesia, it is also completely covered with Russian names, and it is they who are written first, and only in brackets – the current Polynesian. So, Atoll Tokulee is the name of Volkonsky, Atoll Marakou is actually the island of Raevsky, a small, but very long island Mota One wears the name Atoll Bellinshausen, Atoll Arutou is Atoll Rurik, already mentioned atoll Fakarava now wears the name Wittgenstein, and Rakyong’s Atoll – Name of Emperor Alexander.
There is an atoll name of Feldmarshal Suvorov (Polynesian’s local name did not come up with him), Takapoto’s name (wears the name of Spiridov), as well as the island of Ticia (he is the island of Rumyantsev). It is curious that the current inhabitants of Tahiti themselves almost do not know anything about the Russian history of their islands and think that France has owned by these lands from time immemorial.
"Come on, come on"
Polynesian entertainment is also specific: run along the shore of the lagoon with a pole in hands, at the end of which a dish with fruits is installed, lifting heavy stones, throwing a spear into coconuts, which hangs at an altitude of 20 meters, as well as canoeing racing for heating (sometimes race distance is more than 80 kilometers) between the islands.
Polynesian flower Tiare adore. It grows only on Tahiti on the sacred island of Raiatea (tried to plant him and on other islands – immediately dies). Tiare petals are, according to legend, five fingers of the girl’s palm, which was in love with the son of the king, but died because she was not allowed to marry him. These petals closes overnight, and in the daytime reopened with a deafening crash.
All inhabitants of Tahiti wear Tiare flower behind the ear. If behind the left (that is, above the heart), then this means that Polynesian has a beloved. And if the flower is fixed behind the right ear – it means that the aboriginal heart of the local places is free.
Let’s not forget about two known every things now, the appearance of which is closely connected with Tahiti Islands. So, the word "tattoo" It came to Europe from Tahiti. Here were the first tattoos in the world on the human body, and the tattoo itself was mandatory for all residents of the islands, since they informed the people around the social and childbirth position, and also defended him from evil spirits.
Come from Tahiti and "taboo" (comes from the Polynesian word "tap" – That is, what can not be touched). Polynesian has the so-called holy seal, which leaders put on any place where they forbade penetrate the other. At the same time, these very leaders (all one to one, like the current rulers), first of all, were sanctified by their own property and slaves, so that the rivals were not everybody to get hung up.
Well, if the Polynesian melting adverb will not be able to memorize (at least in the word "Mauraru", What means "thanks", Local residents of any arrival will just get), that is, it makes sense to go to a colorful folk show with songs and dances of the Aboriginal Pacific. And when, looking straight into your eyes, Polynesian in a loined bandage and with a long spear in his hands, the famous three-letter Russian word from the lexicon of the football player Evseeva, then know: it means it is not at all what you thought, but just "come on, come on". And maybe it is this word that is the only thing that still has been preserved on Tahiti from the very visits to the islands by sailors Kruzenshtern?