At all times of all women of the world, regardless of their age or origin, united one passion – dress up and decorate themselves. Therefore, culture of different countries as in the mirror reflected in the history of traditional women’s costumes. Whether fascinating Japanese kimono, elegant Korean Hanboki, colorful Indian sari … trends can be changeable, but national clothes are always inherent in a special, eternal beauty
So, simple and at the same time, the sophisticated national outfit Aosis is an integral element of the costume of Vietnamese women – both in the deaf villages and in large cities. Aosis is a long dress with two cuts from the waist line on the sides, which is put on top of wide trousers and together with the National Hat Non is one of the symbols of modern Vietnam. Vietnamese women put on Aozay for solemn events, new year or wedding. For such cases, the red dress is usually chosen, symbolizing happiness and luck: luxurious silk tissues and cotton veils, it is usually decorated with embroidery or painting in the form of landscapes, colors or birds.
The colors of Aosis to a certain extent depends on the profession, age and significance of the holiday. During a comment or traditional rituals, brown, purple, blue-purple, coffee-dairy dresses often wear. In rainy weather, preference is given to dark shades,
And in the sunny – light.
In everyday life, traditional clothing in Vietnam crowded Western, but Aozay is still popular: it is usually worn by Vietnamese banks, hotels, restaurants, museums, airports and other public and commercial institutions. In many companies, Aozay is considered a mandatory form of clothing when receiving guests. In educational institutions of Aosis of white color, symbolizing spiritual purity, is a shaped costume of Vietnamese schoolgirls and female students.
By tradition, in Vietnam there is also a suit of Aozay for men, but it differs from female: when sewing, it is not such a thin material and the silhouette does not fit, which makes the male version of the dress more practical.
Nowadays, Vietnamese worn Aozay only at ceremonial receptions as a subject of national symbolism. So, in 2006, at the APEC, organized in Vietnam, APEC summit managers from different countries were supposed to have traditional Vietnamese Aosis – as a sign of respect for this hospitable country.
Judging by the drawings cut on the Bronze Drum Ngoklu, which is one of the most ancient testimonies of the Digeston culture, the first Aozay was made of animal skins and bird feathers before the Ching Sisters Dynasty. Later and up to the XVII century, from a sense of respect for sisters, Vietnamese women continued to wear non-aosis with two floors, but a carchan with four floors, symbolizing parents wearing and sisters Ching.
However, the official date of birth of Aozay is considered to be 1744, when one of the princes of the Nguyen dynasty – Prince Wu Vyong (Nguyen Fuk Cokh, or Prince Wu), struggling with Chinese influence on culture, invented the National Vietnamese suit, consisting of a dress with four floors and trousers. (before that in Vietnam it was customary to wear skirts). Although there is an opinion that the prince and the other purpose: "… to overcome the lack of a single style of clothing in different parts of the country after the conflict of feudal rulers».
Aozay was considered a privileged class clothing. The suites allowed the suit was black and brown, and the diversity was caught with a multi-colored belt. At the beginning of the XIX century, the fifth floor appeared in Aosis. Four basic floors of Aosis symbolized their parents and her husband, and the fifth – the most wearer. Five buttons correlated with five elements of education of humanity, according to Confucian
philosophy: with kindness, politeness, nobility, mind and devotion. They also served as the symbols of the five famous planets for the planets of the Solar System: Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn. On the feast of the woman put on Aozay complete with a wide flat hat with small fields (Nonquaticao) and with a black head handkerchief Mokua (at that time there was no conical hats yet).
Since the 1930s, under the influence of Western culture, a female dress Aousa is rapidly changing: to emphasize the breast, the buttons are cleaned at the front, instead of which a zip appears on the side; Aosis remains only two floors instead of five. These innovations helped the artists of that time Le Moore and Le Fo again breathe life
in a national suit and produce a real revolution in the fashion world of Vietnam, a variety of habitual appearance of Aosis with bright colors and many variations. The updated outfit was demonstrated on shows – and again received recognition and popularity among the country’s female population.
After spliting Vietnam in 1954, Aozay ceased to be used in the northern (socialist) Vietnam as too expensive and not too convenient clothing in the work, but in South Vietnam he still remained in fashion. The de facto first Lady of South Vietnam Madame Nude, NGO Din Nu’s wife, the younger brother and the chief adviser to President NGO Din Zymea, who was a fan of Aozay dresses. After the reunification of Vietnam in 1975, Aozay is coming out of fashion and acquires a new birth only in the 90s.
Unlike Japanese kimono or Korean Hanbok, Aozay’s Vietnamese dress combines both traditional and modern features of their nation. By nature, Vietnamese women are small, their gait smooth, movement slow and elegant. Costume best emphasizes their natural femininity.
Side incision on the dress Aozay changed over time, and also depended on the region of residence and age owners. In women of Central Vietnam, this incision was low, usually a few centimeters below the belt, and at the south – at the same distance above the belt.
Due to the many features of the figure and differences in the parameters, each dress Aosis is sewn individually for a specific client – its production cannot be put on a stream on an industrial scale. At the slightest change in the figure you have to select a new one, as it is almost impossible to fix or repair Aosis.
Modern Aosis often retreats from traditional canons: it can be both with high and low collar or without it without it, closed or have cutout, decorated with embroidery or painting on the fabric. The length of the sleeves, the length of the dresses itself and the height of the cuts on it varies. Only the preferences of the colors and the purpose of Aozay remain the same.