From Seville to Granada

Swords of swords now in Seville, I will not hear in Granada. This aristocratic instrument of clarification of relationships has long changed the folding knife – Navaha. Relatively recently, every self-respecting Macho wore Navakha for a wide bright silk belt. Probably, now Navakhi in the go from the Spanish colleagues of our "Brother". I do not know, I have not seen. At least, dressed quite in Europe, modern Caballero in Seville, Granada, Cordover and Madrid there were no nobles, with the exception of those who operate at the table in the restaurant.

However, and with Navahai had to meet. Thank God, only with drawn. Their owners were beautiful ladies depicted by a wonderful Spanish artist Romero de Torres, whose museum is located in Cordoba. Drew the artist who worked in the 10-30s of our century, almost exclusively inhabitants of this ancient Andalusian city. It is considered, by the way, that in Cordove – the most beautiful women not only in Andalusia, but in all Spain. Prove or disprove this statement, of course, impossible. Nevertheless, women’s portraits Romero de Torres – a very good argument in favor of exactly such a point of view.

So, most characters of his paintings have a notorious Navakha, elegantly plugged for a silk stocking garter. Even if, except for the stocking, there is nothing more on the lady. The employee of the Cordridge on tourism, who drove our journalistic group on the artist’s museum, rather expansively explained that without Nava, charming senites and senorites could not do without. Too heavy was a female share in the then "Macristian" society (that is, in society, where the so-called "machismo"). And Navahah was the last instrument of combating male arbitrariness and, accordingly, the latest means of protecting women’s dignity.

At the same time, our guide made it to all his species to understand that she personally does not have the shadow of doubts in the legitimacy and justification of this method of resolving the conflict of floors.

About Navakha, plugged for the garter, unwillingly remember when you get on Flamenco. It is necessary to make a reservation – we are not talking about numerous pop views in the style of flamenco, suitable not only in those areas of the country, where, as in Castile and Andalusia, Flamenco – an integral part of the folk culture, but also throughout Spain. Including, for example, in Catalonia, for which flamenco is completely alien and where it serves only the indispensable component of the entertainment programs for tourists.

All these pop shows are only a leaky copy that gives a very approximate view of the original.

True, the original is that even a copy of it is stunning and captures.

And yet a complete immersion in that unique cultural reservoir, which is flamenco, can be experienced, only seeing the original. Genuine, so to speak, the invariant-prepar flamenco – this is when dancing not for tourists, but for yourself. Actually, flamenco is not even a dance, but something average between the pagan ritual with the participation of all those present and public confession of performers, this is a mental striptease, clothed in amazing plastic shape.

Nothing like this, of course, can not work out in large concert halls with thousands of viewers. Therefore, the present flamenco dance in small rooms (in our case, one of the best flamenkist teams of Spain performed in the courtyard of the ancient palace, now the buildings of the Cordoba municipality), where the people do not fit a lot and everything happens in a narrow circle. Spectators, even in the last rows, see the smallest details of dance and face dancers.

About faces must be said especially. In crowded tourist ideas, Flamenco varieties often smile during dance. In this flamenco – is quite another matter. Light smile here you see except in the break between dancing, in response to applause. Applause usually completely frantic and stormy. How we were spoken in due time – turning into ovation.

During dance – no smiles. Persons expression – ascetic. Rather gloomy, sometimes even aggressive and at the same time sretter. But in erotica, which is literally permeated flamenco, tenderness is almost not felt. When a man and a woman dance, they often look militant opponents, hardly not merciless enemies. Here then you remember about Navakha for garter. You look at the dazzling beauty, with an aggressive-concentrated view of the knocking heels to a deafening fraction and at the same time, the hell knows that he who makes all parts of his body, and think: such in the case of which the pussy is easily.

Probably, all those who claim are: Flamenko there is a concentrated expression of Spanish love, which is inseparable from rivalry, struggle, jealousy, suffering, blood and death.

The spectacle fascinates, delays his primitive imperceptibility, brutality and at the same time exquisite harmony. Forward singing, accompanying the roar of heels of dancers, rhythmically interrupted by hoarse scrawls and clashes in your hands. The hall will gradually start, soon all those present without distinction of nationalities (including unperturbed Japanese) are also starting to clap your hands, to turn into the tact of the legs and yell: "Ole!" Do not shout, namely yelling.

And a very night, noise-boils Guadalquivir. Noise, though not very noisy. Even frankly, not at all noise – the river, in my opinion, is absolutely quiet and calm. Maybe she is noise during the spring flood. I do not know, I saw her in the fall. In Guadalquivir, it is quite possible to ride on the excursion heat. Moreover, the Spanish guide will certainly say that this is the same Guadalquivir, which Pushkin wrote. And will definitely add that Pushkin himself in Spain never visited.

And in Seville you will definitely show the house where Don Guang lived. Rather, not Don Guang, and his prototype is a certain Hidalgo, who lived at the end of the 20th century and distinguished by a phenomenal walking distance on the female. True, he finished not so tragic, as Pushkin Character – repent, penetrating High morality, gave his house under the shelter for the poor and humbly retired to the monastery.

Chew in Seville and other literary characters. For example, the famous Carmen, also, by the way, to say, cut by navay. Until now, the building of the tobacco factory is preserved, on which, according to Merim’s cap, Carmen and worked. Now in this building, Seville students are granted by granite science.

Actually, in Seville, in particular, and in Andalusia, in general, landmarks are not considered. Unfortunately, our tourists are the most southern region of Spain, mostly in the resorts of Costa del Sol. The sun and the sea are, of course, fine. And the other, by the way, in Andalusia is not less than, let’s say, in Catalonia or Valencia, on the contrary, more. Because of the very hot climate, the bathing season is much longer than in other areas of continental Spain. Sometimes you can swim until the middle, and even until the end of November. But limit your stay in Andalusia Flawing on the beach – unforgivable. After all, there you can see what you will not see anywhere else.

For example, in Andalusia, as anywhere in Spain, traces of Arab dominion have been preserved. It is clear: in Andalusia Arabs detained the longest. The last Arabic stronghold in Spain – Granada – fell under the blows of the Catholic kings relatively recently – in 1492. The main part of the country was disheveled by the Spaniards in several centuries earlier. This, naturally, could not but affect the culture, lifestyle and even the appearance of Andaliysians.

Cordova, Cadiz and Seville in some places in some places in the city of the Arab East – low, leaving the deaf walls on the street White houses with inner courtyards, where bizarre fountains. Andalusian music with organically woven there Arabic and Berber motifs. Finally, the residents of Andalusia themselves often remind the most real Arabs. At least, from all the Spaniards of Andaliyssets – the most dark. Yes, and Sieste, they indulge with much big enthusiasm than residents of other areas of Spain. Otherwise, it is impossible – very hot.

And nevertheless, Andalusia is still primarily Spain, Europe. European comfort in hotels, European purity and safety on the streets. Despite the southern temperament of Andalusiys, the passion, the face with Navahami, for the most part, remained in the past – or find safe for those who surround the exit on flamenkist speeches. Of course, the Andalusian temperament is also manifested in extremely energetic gesticulation resembling Italian. Andalusius is not enough to talk. He is surely necessary to show everything to the interlocutor with his hands, engage in communication triggers, patting on the shoulder, back and other places. These Andaliysians are greatly different, for example, from business and on Spanish standards of restrained Catalans.

So, all these omehydes, Almoravids and Almokhada have long and irrevocably gone. Rather, Spanish kings forced them to leave, and with them more than 500 years ago were expelled and Jews. Inquisition. Extremely developed civilization has sunk in eternity, which has achieved unprecedented heights. After all, in the Arab Spain, the overwhelming majority of the population were competent in the IX-X centuries, the great Arabic and Jewish philosophers, astronomers and doctors lived here, worked with hot water, and simple craftsmen wore glasses that are not fundamentally different from modern.

But the traces of this civilization remained. The Spaniards had enough mind not to destroy them completely. Ancient palaces, castles, mosques and synagogues remained. True, there are no parishioners in these mosques and synagogues – the latter died in a century in sixteenth. But the traveler can still admire the exquisite columns of a huge Cordin mosque, consider the colorful mosaics of the Seville Palace Alcazar and indulge in philosophical reflections in the beautiful Gardens of the Alhambra fortress, which under Greanada.

All of these, as well as other numerous attractions of Andalusia are supported in sample order. Still – tourists walt here crowds. And the Russians are here so far. They will repeat, mostly master the Mediterranean resorts in the Malaga region. The Spaniards hoped to put here and Russians, and the crisis in our country is not much frightened by them. Spanish National Institute of Tourism, who first organized a special trip of Russian journalists on Andalusia, develops exclusive excursive excursion routes for our tourists, including a visit to Cordoba, Seville, Granada and other notable seats in the South of Spain.

Probably, participants in these travels will be able to visit Madrid. After all, for example, from Cordoba to the Spanish capital, only about four hours of driving on a very comfortable high-speed train. Wear as if on the plane; Once – and you already in Madrid with his famous museums and a boiled nightlife. All night long idle and noisy crowd flies from beer in beer, from a cafe in a cafe.

Madrid, like Paris, is idle. But this, as they say, a separate song.