Good morning, Hong Kong!

Throwing bags in the hotel room, turn on the TV. Not that during the flight from Moscow I managed to miss "drawer", but run through the channels, look into the mirror of the country – the Holy Case. Moreover, soon for 10 years as it is a disappearing country. In 1997, Hong Kong was officially returned to China. But while it did not dissolve.

The historical event was preparing for a long time. Return the former colony of the United Kingdom refused in 1984. But step by step, step by step: the British governor replaces the local frame (Beijing approved), then then, then. In short, sleep quietly, residents of Hong Kong, in China you will not be sent soon.

But sometimes the fairy tale affects longer, the way it is done. The sense of the priority of a beautiful era only spurla is the isgery. No wonder Singapore Premier Lee Kwanu lured them to him – like a starter for business.

Hong Kong intellectuals, gloomy, re-read the novel "1984" George Orwell. Mass, far from anti-nightopy, also found themselves: half of the population of the island – Refugees from the Communist China and their descendants. True, the then leader of the PRC Dan Xiaoping promised not to touch the capitalist liberation for another 50 years – until 2047. One country – two systems. Chinese know how to minimize slogans. "Let a hundred colors bloom" It sounded no worse, but the words of Mao believed and the masses to criticize the authorities found themselves at the appointed term in rural wilderness on "Revilization". Deciding not to experience fate, tens of thousands of people, mostly wealthy, from Hong Kong left. It’s a bit with almost seven million.

Similar situation with Macau Peninsula. Portuguese since 1966 tried to pay the colony, Beijing did not take: it was convenient to trade with the West through Macau. From Hong Kong to Macao – only two hours on the ferry. The taxi driver who was driving me from the pier, said he was waiting, would not wait for a real Chinese order. "Will be better?" – "Yes! All taxes from our casino will remain with us!"

Pragmatism of compatriots taught the ancient sage of Confucius. And teach well.

In the television, subtitles of hieroglyphs are replaced. Cantonese dialect on Hong Kong, differs from the official language of the PRC. Is it wondering that the island, famous to the world as Hong Kong, in fact – Xianggan, if the island and mainland Chinese themselves need a translator. You can draw hieroglyphs with hand in the air, but it does not always help. Someone and at all calls themselves Chinese Hong Kong. This is a Chinese for us – term, and they are different. From different worlds.

Teleport from Beijing: a diligent peasant raised a large, important pig for folk economy. Not zodiacal, not from the Chinese horoscope. Just pig. But the voice of the announcer trembles from excitement, if I correctly read emotions. Traditions transfer "Rural hour" alive, they are in safe hands.

News from Taiwan – Complete Protests and Criminal Chronicle. Run, screaming, attach themselves with handcuffs to the fence. Police ranks, one of the other thicker, it commented with irritation. Nervous Some kind of life, with a blast.

Especially on the background of well-being, overwhelming Hong Kong Tener. Pretty leading, singing contests, advertising fashion brands. There are no pigs-record holders. That’s just frosts for the New Year, not glamorous at all was killed: + 11 ° С. The authorities promptly adjusted the delivery of free ruins to the elderly. Putting them and occasionally similar to the prisoners of the Japanese in the camp under the Irkutsk, the old people clearly complain that the world is changing for the worst.

He’s small, this island. I feel physically. On the hotel’s website my number watched perfectly. V "Real" It turned out to be mildly, led. The usual thing when ordering via the Internet, but a couple of additional square meters would definitely prevent.

Local closeness do not notice. Amazed that the island is engaged in wooded mountains, and people are torn on a narrow strip of the shore. The most impressive exhibit in the Hong Kong History Museum is a house of migrants from the mainland. Low more "merchaous" The Chiffiraera standing in my grandmother’s house. Calling things with their own names – just a high drawer. In the nineteenth century, the family lived in it.

Then the shore began to build up, pouring megatons of the earth into the sea. Island Square increased by jerks. Began to plunge the extr. and in Kowulun – on the other side of the strait. Although it is already a mainland – there for new territories, lies big China. He is also closely.

Under these conditions, the solution to produce space seems the best of all that can come to mind. Supporting such a move of thoughts, the British finally presented a gift: from our island – you. Famous architect Norman Foster built a new international airport of Hong Kong. Also bulk. With land, it connects a bridge with the longest railway flight in the world. When you go on it on the train-express, the thought is told about the conspiracy: and whether someone is planted at the top to make Hong Kong from Moscow? Very vivid example. Seductive.

In the backrest of express seats built-in monitors. Four programs demonstrate the achievements of Hong Kong. Since the tourist on the island is already grooved, we will consider it not with advertising, but visual agitation. I imagine how visitor from the Moscow City Hall seen all these miracles of the XXI century and were visible in the heart, and they swore to build the same – and the skyscrapers are not worse than in New York, and the neighboring 40-storey quarters, forcing it to suspect that The island was able to solve the problem of housing accessible to all. Earth, as you understand, monstrously dear, but half of the population of Hong Kong lives in the subsidized authorities of the houses.

Good morning, Hong Kong!

And the metro is the most progressive in the world? In Tokyo you will not see such a celebration of Heytec. In the wagons on aluminum benches, schoolgirls are sitting – shaped jackets, golf – chatting on a mobile phone, chew something, despite the strict ban. Without complexes. Just like ours.

Sorry, spit, throw cigarettes – these crimes against purity are punished with hundreds of dollars. Apparently, it is impossible in a different way, the man-made world will simply drown in the garbage. And he flourishes as some Switzerland, about which one of my friend told terrible. He fromterly threw the scraps of letters into the tank for empty bottles. Neighbors folded puzzle, read the name of the recipient and reported to the police. Only timely return to the CNR saves Hong Kong from such hygienic extremes.

But what is important: it turns out that it is not necessary to have oil and gas reserves for prosperity. Just just work not to dope. Rebuild the world’s largest cargo port. On marine freight transportation economy of Hong Kong in the 1970s and climbed as on yeast. Not on natural resources however, those long exhausted. Sooner or later such a future is waiting for the whole world. And, as it turns out, you can live. If you understand your role and choose the right strategy.

And where is the Hong Kong, about which we read and dreamed in childhood? Old, exotic and, no offense will be told by the Chinese, colonial? His traces are saved. From the old police station under the side of the market wall-market to the smallests in the classic Hong Kong style of the 1920s. They trade in the neighborhood, in the shop OLD HONG KONG. Things are essentially European, but all – from furniture to an old-fashioned phone – with a clear Chinese accent. The idea is alien, fulfill its. Ordinary round glasses turn into an item that is simply impossible to hoisp on the nose. Europeans – will be funny. But the great copies did not laugh, and the samples reproduced persistently. Now you will see – someday their perseverance will lead to the fact that copies will not be worse than originals. And certainly cheaper.

Trade – long found meaning of Hong Kong’s life, his purpose. But the shops of the Sentral region and boutiques, which filled the arcade of the skyscrapers, are no different from Parisian and Milane. This good and in Moscow enough. Real Hong Kong is noisy markets Kowlun. They stretch along the streets, hit by the number and unpredictable assortment of goods. Minced week ago Vintage coins with square hole, Chinese compasses of all kinds and sizes, jade prints, pillows, shoes, binoculars, toys. Here is a rack with bags. On some tag no name. A thin marketing move must convince you that the real Diesel and Burberry hangs next to. Only a round idiot in it will believe, but Western tourists break a cheap product. And explicit violation of the rights of the manufacturer does not confuse them. And still give us a cluster!

If the Chinese do not trade, they feed you. Kitchen here, like a dialect, Cantonese. Her pride – swallow sockets. Alas, soup of them look like a liquid salted seed. I would know this as a child when I read about the books about the distant countries and the southern seas.

From the residents of Hong Kong in the face I know two – type that every day offers me fake "Rolleks", And Jackie Chana. Palm Chief Chinese Hollywood Increased in concrete of the Kowulun. Next to the shop window of the sportswear store smiles Jackie himself, carved from cardboard. The network of these stores belongs to him. He generally owns a lot in Hong Kong – from the house rebuilt from the closed factory, to the Wine Collection, which would be honored with other French Chateau. Mr. Chan Clek not only with his hands waving.

And that our acting youth – limbs are not in place? Why no longer conquered Hollywood? Why and then Hong Kong was ahead of us? Hello. And incomprehensible. Really because it cries more of us?

Good morning, Hong Kong!

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