Greek diaries: simi

From Rhodes to Siemi only 25 nautical miles and as much to Siemy with Alimia and Hulka. Four hours under the sail or one and a half hours on the ferry – and you will find yourself on one of the most picturesque Islands of the Dodecan archipelago, which is confirmed by the filmmakers who have chosen the island as a natural scenery to their films. One of the most famous Hollywood films "Punches of the island of Navaron" was shot at the beginning of the 60s here, in the mountains and bays, and not only in Rhodes, as many consider. The film shines the stars of world cinema Gregory Pek, Anthony Quinn and David Nyaven. The plot, however, simple, as, however, in many other Hollywood films about the war. 1943. The second world is coming. The group of British Commandos is ordered to destroy the German coastal battery with a pair of large-caliber guns located in a hard-to-reach and well protected at the island of Navarona in the Aegean Sea. As a result, the enemy is defeated, the traitor has been punished, our won. Since the island in the film – Well, something like another acting person, it is definitely reflected on the final product in the best way. Grateful Greeks subsequently presented Anthony Quinna for merits one of the bays on Rhodes, but, in my opinion, he did not take advantage of it. Although the place has since been called – the Bay of Anthony Quinna.

I, although I read out of Greek mythology since childhood, now I have to have these stories with the famous share of humor, always knowing the measure. And my Greek friends relate to this issue quite seriously, considering this cultural reservoir, perhaps the main part of its historical heritage. They believe that all events, characters and intricacies of Greek mythology in one form or another once actually existed. Therefore, to their statement that it was on the island of SIMI Argonauts to build their ship "Argo", I have become either skepticism over the years. Troy once found!

Island picturesque, small in size and small-seated – on the car it can be driving in 30 minutes. At the same time, about 30,000 inhabitants lived on the Second World War, which gradually left the island, racing on the planet (after 1912 the island once again changed the owner – the whole Dodecanese after a small, but very victorious war moved from Turkey to Italy). The number of residents today remains at the level of 1939 – about 2,000 people.

The island is deeply going to the continumous coast of Turkey, which, however, does not make it less Greek. Nevertheless, the architecture of the main city of Simi is radically different from the architecture, say, the islands of Nisiros, which is located just 35 sea miles to the north-west. There are white-blue houses, characteristic of more Cycladic Islands, and here are all buildings, as in a ginfed city, painted in all imaginable colors. Here, everything is both in any Greek town: cozy taverns and souvenir benches. But by Simi has been considered to be the island of fishermen and sponge catcher – visitors Tourists buy as a souvenir sponge, and in the evenings we will taste fine fried fish. If you want to ripen and cheaper, then choose the place that local residents chose. This principle is not always valid, but here it works. Large and small pieces of rusty iron on the waterfront – nothing but echo of war, and not only German and not only the second world. In the Maritime Museum – the whole story of this very sea island, which exhibits all sorts of devices found most of the sea at the bottom of the sea.

The main attraction of the island is the Bay of Panamimithis, or rather, not so much bay, how many monastery, located on her shore. And besides the monastery, there are no other buildings here, except for a small tavern, which closes in late November with the end of the yacht season.

This corner is surprising. There are almost no people, except for pilgrims, yachtsmen and tourists who are brought on the ferry just once a day in the middle of the afternoon, and those in an hour will take away. Ferry sucks tourists to his whiskered and gives a farewell beep, promising to come back here in a day. The monastery and the bay die out – the sun, rocks, the sea, the dome … All this every hour is announced by the bell ringing. In the morning, Panamimitis becomes an ideal place to meditate. From here it is difficult to break out, here you always want to stay longer, stop hurry, run away from bad weather or catching back. Anyone who encroaches your Zen at such moments, I want to say: come out, you shrone to me the sun!

You crawl on the deck, pouching the sun, which has already lit the monastery bay. Quietly fall into the salty font, turning onto the back and peering, as for the first time, in the bottomless blue sky.

At such a moment you can make anything – and the desire will surely come true. No need to global, it is better to guess something earthly and affordable. Guess, and the desire immediately comes true – ten minutes should be stuck in silence and loneliness, crowded with emotions. At such a moment I really want to be alone with him and with him.

Then you sit on another wet dew deck with a mug of hot coffee and listen to jazz. Jazz is replaced by Soundtrack from the film Kusturica "Life as a miracle". Yacht folk at the next ship wakes up and waving my hand. Yes, indeed, life is a miracle!

Greek diaries Siemy

But at times, this secluded bay becomes very lively. When the South Storm arrives, the yachtsmen try to go here as in the most convenient place for anchor parking, sealing and so crowded bay. In such nights, it resembles more kitchen sink, scored dishes after the family celebration. Twilight, parking lights on the mast begin to dance, the guys in the wind are published, merging into a terrible stretching, – immediately recalled the story of Jack London "Night on the Goboto". And then find a place to make anchor happens like not easy. The owner of the Mikhalis tavern at such moments joyfully rubs his hands, calling the heavenly office well, at least for a day to extend the weather: there are no free places in the tavern, and the revenue acquires indiscretions.

The main shrine of the monastery, all of Greece and in general of the Orthodox world (actually, why everyone is so strive) – the miraculous icon of Archangel Mikhail is more human growth and with expensive silver salary. Without stretching, it can be said that the monastery is the center of pilgrimage of the union scale and the second in value at the Dodecan archipelago after Patmos. The islanders will honor the saint as a patron of sailors along with the Holy Nikolay. It is believed that if you throw a vessel in the sea with a note to the saint, then one day it will be formed to the Bay of Panamimitis and the request will be. Indeed, in confirmation of this miracle in one of the premises of the monastery, many such messages were collected by completely different shapes and sizes featured against the monastic coast in different years. Given that the entrance to the bay is quite narrow, only a few tens of meters, it can be called a miracle. According to legend, the local peasant, picking in the garden on the shore of the bay, found a small icon of Archangel Mikhail, who brought home. Outroo icon disappeared and again was found in the garden. After the third discovery to the peasant, the leader of the heavenly military appeared and ordered the same to stop to carry the icon from place to place and leave her in the Bay of Panamimithis. Then they will build a small temple for the icon in the bay, in the place of which in the XIV century, with the knights-John, the monastery of Panamimithis will grow. At the time of ownership of the island, the monastery suffered greatly and was rebuilt again in the XVIII century. In general, the acquisition of icons in Greece is a special story, I had to be in the temples, which were built on the spot where the sea once threw ashore icon.

I tend to the version that these were ship’s icons who survived after shipwreck, because in the past the navigation was not safe. The most bright and close example is part of the Russian warship ship-space, thrown on the eastern coast of Tinos Island in the 1770s after the sea battle. Subsequently, a temple was built here, the main shrine of which is just the central part of the iconostasis. Since the Greeks participated in the salvation of Russian sailors, then in this case the causal relationship is established. In most cases, ships, like people, died without a trace, not leaving anything but rescue circles and oil spots.

Swing a guide to Greece

Special thanks to the South Aegean Islands Region, General Secretariat of Information and Communication of the Greek Republic.

Greek diaries Siemy

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