Greenland. Green country.
Word "Eskimo" considered indecent here how "black person" in the USA, but "Inite" – just right. I tried to know for a long time why such a dislike for a tasty word "Eskimo", But the only thing that reconciled is a story about Traveling Leif Ericsson. This Viking, who opened Greenland, who opened Greenland, who opened Greenland, said that "Country Winland inhabited by dwarfs", And the dwarf on the Old Mountains and will "Eskimo". In that language, no one speaks, but, apparently, the locals – the people of the memo.
In fact, Greenland opened many times. The very first – a couple of thousand years before our era, when hunters got here from the territory of the current Canada. Judging by archaeological data, the wave extinct completely. The second settling occurred after a thousand years, and by the thousandth year our era about Greenland was recognized by Vikings. They did not advertise their discoveries, because the rest of Europe had to open cold "Green country" Alone, what was done by the efforts of James Davis in 1585. Now, in a thousand years after Vikings, Greenland opened and Russians.
I just descended from the top of the thirty-meter iceberg to his sadlovinka, "Rodiv" New type of extreme sports. Here in Greenland, extremalyzikov exposed: you want, do the usual "Adrenaline", whether a ski tour or ice-climbing. Want to come up with something new. For those two weeks that we spent on the eastern shore of the island, which we just saw and tried! At first, I was surprised by the number of people seeking tourists, the airport Kulusuk, the only gate to these edges was surprised, was a palate clogged with passengers. Our "Fokker-50" flew without a single empty place and on the return route took a complete set. Of course, we were in the most peak of the tourist season, but still, after all.
Walk through Ammasalika. One and a half thousand village lives tourism and hunting. Most small houses, entrance hall and one-room room. Locals, inuita, thirty years ago lived in large dugouts, three or four families. With a terrible grindness and stuffing, the dugouts had one indisputable dignity in them was warm, and in the local areas, people were used to dream of only two things warm and satisfying. At the end of the last century, Greenland crossed the Skiers of the Great Norwegian Furoof Nansen. Before going to the glacier, he almost lived among Inuit. Dressed as they. Food like them. And in the end, it came to the conclusion that in this harsh edge, where even the fire is not about to ignore, only it is possible to survive, and you get used to the vonya and dirt after a couple of months.
One dugout is preserved, and if you ask Ola Ensensen, the director of the local museum, then he spends you. The current Greenland housing is indistinguishable from any other in Norway, Canada or in Alaska: a prefabricated design of lightweight materials, good thermal insulation, efficient heating with hydrochlorian stoves controlled by a microprocessor. So how the inuita topless went in their dugouts and go to houses. And barely prigends the sun, everything in panties and thaws rolled out to the street. As they love the sun in the Nordic countries, he does not like anywhere.
The village has a large supermarket, church, hotel, modern school, no less modern and well-equipped hospital, post office and police station. Of all the benefits of civilization, the Russians lack only one exchange point of the currency. All locals money is received by credit cards and cash them in an ATM, and dollars can exchange only in private and at the extremely robber course. The same course and at the airport "Duty Free", where, paying dollars, give money percent for thirty more than indicated in the price tag. However, we arrived here not for shopping here, especially since all local souvenirs are extremely roads. Therefore, leave the hospitable village and see what is interesting beyond.
It turns out that everything is literally every step. To start, I tried what ski tour. I heard a lot, but I didn’t somehow try on myself. This is a hybrid between ordinary skiing, allowing to walk on the plain, and alkaline skiing. It’s all about special boots and very cunning fasteners. When the shoes’s heel are free, the technique as on ordinary skiing. On the downstairs, the heel is fixed, and now you are already in a full ski kit. At the time of lifting the mountain on a ski there is a special caisome tape that impedes the opposite slip. Everything is simple, but the result of this simplicity of the phenomenal can be calmly ascended on the cinema snow for any steep garbage, and then move away from there to the selected route.
For those who love puzzle descents, Ski Tour has one alternative to climb the mountain on a helicopter, but it costs this insane money. For routes, Ski-Tour in Greenland is far from going around the mountain, throughout the coast. Naturally, I got out of the equipment and went on the road. But the slalom left for later, because I really wanted to go through the cape and see how the Atlantic Ocean is frowning without me. As soon as the village disappeared from the sight of me, the full, absolute silence surrounded me. It became even a terrific dazzling sun, the shrinks on the slopes of the mountains, the turquoise sky and silence, as if the sound was disappeared on the TV. But no, listened to something heard, whether the motor is in the distance, whether the clock is ticking. Put my electronic "Casio" not trained, and it is not very similar to the motor. After five minutes of the intense thought process, I understood I hear my own heart.
I not only reached the opposite shore of the cape, but also went on, on the ice. In the snow, the traces here were hunters, and, having passed a little further, saw the network installed in the wells on the seal, and nearby. Nearby was in the snow stunning souvenir self-made skiing, knocked down not with synthetic as mine, but a real nonsense fur. Blimey! These skis just because they do not adorn the wall of my Moscow apartment that we are real "Grennetsey", never someone else take. In Greenland.
New discovery I feel that ice breathes. Thick, meter in one and a half, but it is not solid at all. I am alerted and suddenly a snow cornice with a nearby iceberg fell with a terrible crash! I was somehow not good inside, and suddenly thought: and then the bear can easily meet. And I shamefully fled from this paradise to save all impressions safely and safeness.
Ice-climbing, referred to "Ledolazia" also sport new and fashionable. And here, for him, you want to be full for him, go to any of the surrounding glaciers, which are broken into the sea alone, meters to fifty, blue cliffs. And if it is too lazy to get to the glacier, then there are no problems, go out for sea ice and put to the nearest iceberg. But it is necessary to go skiing the ice mountain at all is not enchanted tightly, it is constantly surrounded by a broken ice width of a few meters wide, and to overcome, we need a snarling. As I said, skis can come in handy and on Iceberg if you find a suitable. "My" sticks in the very depths of the bay of ammasalik, kilometers in three from the village.
Still visiting people scary love dogs. They can be rented for a couple of hours and just ride a little, but those who are more sophisticated in adventures come differently. On the sleds are leaving for several tens of kilometers from the village, and they are already skiing back. There is a romance for the full program of overnight stay in a tent, cooking on a preims and almost blackmale, instead of a TV, a polar shine. By the way, it was here for the first time I saw a full-fledged polar radiance not in the bubbling frost, as it usually happens on Chukotka or Alaska, but with warm, only about minus five degrees, weather. Locals explain this phenomenon that here is one of the big ozone holes. Therefore, the tan here is so cooler than in Hurghada or Alps.
For winter holidays in Greenland, April is most suitable at this time. If the weather is also spoiled, then a maximum of a day or two. And so weeks can be sunny, heat is so warm so that in the windless clock you can undress to melting and sunbathing. Summer season August. Before that it usually happens rainy and frozo, and after it is cold. August is the right time for artists and photographers-landscape players: White icebergs on turquoise or lead-steel smoothies of the Atlantic, green with snowy hats of the mountain and a completely stunning coloring. Dawn and sunset sky. In the summer, visiting people go to short and long trips, makes excursions to the boats in the bay, where the languages of the huge Greenland Glacier are crawling. If you are lucky you can see the birth of iceberg. For the very "frozen" Super pruncia of kayak and windserphs among icebergs. Recently, many Europeans ride specifically to make climbing. Mountains are low, three or three and a half thousand meters, and uncomplicated. But the fact of making climbing in Greenland, many warms the soul to many.
. We had to not only fly to the glacier to carry out an expedition on the far path, but also to spend one or a few nights in anticipation of the reverse helicopter. Robert Perii, the famous traveler and the owner of a small hotel in Ammasalik, told how time from time to time in these parts will bloom the scary wind called "Pierak". Intercooled over the huge ice shield air flows to the sea, gaining maximum strength in the splashes between the mountains separating the glacier from the coast. For all calculations it turned out that if both being Peteka, then exactly where our tents will be. Therefore, hardly having to wave a red helicopter handle, ruthlessly threw us in the middle of the icy desert, we grabbed the shovels. Weather amazing, Solnychko Sweets, silence. Only hear how we puff, cutting down the snow bricks and teste them in a rapidly growing protective wall.
When we were discharged from the helicopter, two strokes passed by us: the hunters are in a hurry on the fishery, plastic kayak rides on the rope. They are from the village of Zestok, several of his tiny houses we saw from the air. In English, men are not a word, but posed willingly and even they did not ask for money. In ammasassal asking, and very often. But visitors warn: there is no way to give money to such requesters in any way, a fairly encouraging smile. What to do, drunkenness in the north scary beach not only for Russia, but begging only certain people and with a certain goal. When the hunters were returned, they did not recognize the usual place for several hours the similarity of the Snow Fortress. And I addressed the dream of childhood, building a snowy hut-needle.
It is said that one Eskimo can build a needle for two-three people per hour. One Russian builds a needle for four hours. Per guest can only get to the belt. During the construction, the Russian quietly shared under the nose, because snow bricks first regularly occupy their place in the masonry, but it is worth turning away like a piece of wall falls. But you need to fulfill the dream of childhood and I not only completed the construction "First Greenland Planetarium" (Colleagues are joking), but also dug the entrance to all the rules below the wall level. For the works I was rewarded in the evening, when it became rather dark: two candles-plasters, put inside, so lit my creation, which it became like some kind of alien building. What is called Petek, we experienced every other day after returning to the village. The wind is poured and drives into the face of a snowy camp with such a force that only scratches leaves. But we were in the village, which was built where the wind is smaller.
Robert arrived at the helicopter and from the air showed a place where his neighbor’s day ago bought a polar bear. The place seemed to me very familiar. So, it was here that I went "ocean". Returning to the village, I went to look for Ulric, the hunter himself. Houses are scattered in absolute mess, because I was looking for a long time, having silent in different doors. Finally saw the house, next to which something like a duvette hangs on the rope. But with claws. Soft wet skins fluttered in the wind, claws rhythmically scratched the wall of the house. White Bear Most Value Mining. And not meat main. Skin. And the custom of this: the skin gets the one who has noticed the first bear. Even if she shot him another, he can only count on a carcass, and the skin of the oldest. By the way, it is worth two and a half thousand dollars in ammassalia. True, I do not know if tourists can take out such souvenirs after all the beast. But the locals have the right to hunt anyone, even on the bear, at least for no less protected narrowing. Narlov is such a whale with a very big twisted leg. Test, the length of which can exceed two meters, also a good souvenir and is inexpensive only a thousand dollars.
And Robert in the house there are constantly locals. European diaspora in ammasasalic is small and consists mainly of Danes. This is aimed at the Government programs of doctors, teachers. And Danes, although they earn good money here, in relation to the indigenous population hold a certain distance. But the Italian Robert meets Inuit with an open soul. Day his guests mainly children. Guests find a common language with them quite quickly, and tourists are children (there are also!) per week manage to master in principle an uncomplicated local language. Robert apologizes in front of guests dealers for brought to the house of turmoil and explains that local children living in a close isolated Mirka, communication with foreigners the only opportunity to see another life. You look, someone will light up going to learn. Yes, even if it just understands that there is in life entertainment besides a booze, already good. He will bring children, they will seize them in tea and takes the stories of Roberts Assistant German guy Martin. He is from Munich, the fan of a ski tour, and all his free time is rushing around the mountains. And in non-free time it carms, continues to build a large farm Robert. Payment for the works of the shelter, food and the possibility of a couple of months to spend on the most exotic slopes of the world.
The day of the reverse departure is rapidly approaching. Already returned from a long campaign four Scots, who flew with us in one plane. They, three adults and eleven-year-old girl Maria, left the dogs somewhere for a hundred kilometers and a week went back on skis. Returned happy, tired and with sun-lunged noses. Already three puppies, born on the day of our arrival, began to crawl around the neighboring snowdrifts not having time to overlook. Their mother, White Barbosina, arranged a nest right on the snow. And nothing: In the Purga, her together with puppies was completely noticed by snow, so no one sneezed! And the nicknames of Greenland dogs do not. Even the leaders of the scenes, the most gently favorite animals, and all their lives remain "Just dogs".
Already coming to the end of a huge stock of the film. Visit to the souvenir shop suddenly becomes productive. After all, it is necessary to bring something from this far away, so let it be a stupid, a local god. Figures made of deer horn and whale bones have many people, faces even in those places where particularly important organs are located. And some unkind, at first and there was a pity. But in two weeks, stupids were supposed and it means that the road home will cost without unpleasant surprises. So came out.