Traditionally, the word "vacation" for all of us is associated with the sea, white sand and hot sun. I do not differ much from most – I also sometimes like to soak on the beach, swim in the warm sea, drink a glass of other good wine, admiring the sunset in the evening. But I will prove you that without this, you can do an unforgettable vacation.
In North Yakutia, I have been repeatedly, but it was a brief visit to these places. And I wanted to plunge into the pristine northern nature with my head, evaluate the original culture and to experience many active entertainment invented by nature specifically for inhaled tourists. Well, in order to fulfill your dream, you can work in this edge.
Yakutia is the edge of reindeer, rivers and glaciers, dense taiga, endless expanses of the tundra. About half of the territory of the republic is located for the polar circle. This is the edge of the protected beauty, mysterious, calling. He manifes me since I first stepped on this land. A lot of time passed and finally happened. The GAV team (according to the first letters of our names: Gennady, Alexander, Alexey, Vasily) in full, went to the long-awaited journey. And before that moment, for several years, I discovered my friends to visit these edges. But it did not work, then the vacation did not coincide, the wife had a wife from someone. And then the notorious Coronaryar almost confused all our plans. But you can see our desire was stronger.
It’s not easy to get here, the abandonment in this area is possible only from Tiksi – a small village located in the mouth of the Great and Mighty Lena. Tiksi has the status of border centers, so you need to make a pass in advance, usually takes no more than a month. Flight to Tiksi for my friends is not simple – I got out of sightseeing from different regions, from Moscow to Yakutsk and only then in Tiksi. I want to warn right away, on weekends in Tiksi there is no flights, by the way, the weather can also contribute to the journey.
However, we generously presented the gifts of the spirit of nature by Bayanay, and he was settled over us. Weather obstacles to us did not book, like the border guards who met my friends in Tiksi for the rightful stay in Pogranceon. The long-awaited meeting, all night long satisfied and remembered times when we conquered arctic spaces.
And now the helicopter with our small group of lovers tourists broke away from the take-off band of Tiksi and took the course to the West. Fly over the endless northern expanses.
I look through the glass of the porthole of the helicopter on the Yakut tundra, rugged by blue veins not touched by the civilization of the rivers. Flocked to the Great River Lena, it is just huge while you yourself will not see, you will not understand how big it is.
I had to be on Obi and Yenisei, but Lena, I just struck me to the depths of the soul. Coastal cliffs that are contemporaries of dinosaurs, in their wreckage of ammonite prints, trilobites and other disappeared representatives of the oldest history of the planet.
But our course on the river Khorbusukonka is the right influx of the River Olenek. The name of the river is translated as "the river of non-letters". Horbusukonka originates in the south of Plateau Kystyk of the Meshnessism Plateau, flows into Olenyuk at 221 km from his mouth. River length 290 km. The river is very clean, because there is no anthropogenic effect on it.
As soon as the unloading of our small group was finished, and the helicopter, making a circle over us, flew away, we began to break our camp on a beautiful pebble beach, near the mouth of a big stream. Finished with the installation of the tents, took up the workpiece of firewood, at least we had tourist gas burners, because the bonfire is one of the most important ingredients for delicious dishes.
At these latitudes, the polar day is already reigning, the sun walks in a circle. Finally, the spinningings are completely unchanged and everything went out to try out the selected gear. From the very first razov began to actively take the Lenok. Without going from the place, we produce a dozen handsometers from 1 to 3 kg. Cheat Lenka – Single pleasure, a river 50-70 meters wide without corping and coastal bushes allows you to let go of fish, give her the opportunity to cut down and jump into. Occasionally came across Harius, there were no trophy copies, but the struggle was interesting with a kilogram. In general, fishing on this river, in sensations, is reduced to the search for the right place, which is almost always more or less obvious: pits under rummate or at the mouth of the stream. Having found a point, you can catch any reasonable amount of fish in an hour and a half. And her abundance does not diminish pleasure when fishing, because Lenok with Harius is, in my humble opinion, one of the most sporting, beautiful and, that is also essential, delicious fish. Of all glitters, small rotates have shown the best. And no difference what they were colors. Harius took a little weaker, but it was very much, and what is surprising, this gugly, in principle, the fish was almost never afraid of us.
And although the excitement of fishermen does not subside, I need to intervene on the rights of the senior group. We came to relax here, and not to harvest the fish. Vasily Kureyev, my longtime friend engaged in cooking gorgeous lunch. Fish dishes He is just a masterpiece and we soon made sure. Vasily Solil fish, fry, baked in foil, marinated, of course, did his ear. Hit season, dish from chef – Lenok in a wine-ginger sauce. We liked it so much that everyone scored a recipe. Freshly a large lanka wrapped, cut off head, remove the skin, and then separate meat from the bones. From kilogram fish it turns out half a fillet, which cut into pieces and put in the dishes, are ideal liter jars from under mayonnaise. Then salt (at the rate of 1 h.L. For 1 kg of fillet), add a half pack of dry white wine, finely cut the bulb, dried dill, parsley (by a teaspoon). Plus a little pepper and others (cumin, ginger, nutmeg and t.NS.) taste spices. Mix well and leave this thing for a day. Then for the ears not to drag. But since the reserves of white wine from Vasily were limited, he tried to do in wine vinegar, it turned out too well, but with wine, believe me better.
Two days later, in love with beauty, admitted by beauty, decided to start their way to the mouth of the river, to the place where Horbusukonka flows into the River Olenek.
Water fell, the depth on the rods did not exceed 30-40 cm, the river alloy is limited, so at times we had to drag the wolves through our rubber boats. Air temperature + 13 ° С, water + 9 ° С, mosquitoes and midges and in mom there is no, that we especially pleased. For the 71th degree of northern latitude – straight resort some kind.
Four days we melt on Khorbusuonka along the white pebble beaches, almost on every turn we are encountered with a swearful coast with fancy outlines. Once we climb on top to view the surroundings. Far in the east river rushes among the forest and rocks, and in the West, where the valley merged with the River Olenek, all tone in the solar haze. Sensation of space, inexplicable delight and full freedom. We rejoiced like boys. Our hearts beat in unison – Hearts of four friends.
Going down, we found themselves, as if inside a huge ancient facility, which was drunk by the river in the rocks. The lower tiers went huge steps, as if the tribunes of the amphitheater, if you look at them from below, and the top crowned pillars, towers, spiers, fragments of walls. Injustable Blue River, breaking on the sleeve, flowed among white, dry, heated pebbles. Silence in the robus went out indigenous rocks, as if Cascade was purchased, and the water was quietly flowed from the steps on the step. Let us go downstream, we see the tower and the ruins of the old castle – the product of thousand-year efforts of water and wind.
Plant and animal world surprisingly rich: large herds of wild deer, a lot of beautiful flowers, birds.
Even interesting spiders were met, but among us there were no entomologists, so we could not determine their name. The temperature rose to + 17 ° C, and here we felt the bloodthirsty of local mosquitoes, which with the onset of heat became a lot, no … very much. Yes, in the absence of wind without good repellents and the attachment in these places it is simply impossible. True, besides mosquito, no one of the buskets no one, and it was pleased.
And so, we make an extreme parking near the mouth of the Khorbusuk River. Went for a dry larch for a fire, hearing the cry of our "fire" Alexei Timofeyev, was in our group and such a position. We run to him, we are waiting for something extraordinary, and our expectations are justified – he came across the cloth of the Mammoth, a little like in the district, find the jaw and teeth. The state of their so-so, certainly not the first grade. Therefore, without much regret, they left them on the shore, placing the exact coordinates on the map, suddenly Paleontologists will be interested.
Finally, we reached the river with an interesting and cute name of Olenek. In Yakutsky, this name means "little water". However, it is a small river for a wide Siberian concepts of the river, on European scale somewhat different. Its length is 2300 km, and the width in many places exceeds 500 m. This river is famous for its ihthyofauna, there are about thirty fish breeds. And what is Omul and Muksun. Locals Omul residents are harvested exclusively for themselves. The quality of the Omul can be understood at least from the fact that YuCuu, without salt and spices make. And what a planing of it, but it has not yet shone it, because in the yard it is already July, and we did not capture the freezer. Well, and the king fish of these places is Tymen. It is behind him here a fishermen from different parts of our immense birthplace.
On the merger of the Rivers of the River, Pur and Horbusukonka decided to break the camp. In this place, fishermen and hunters often stop, there is a trailer with a stove and a table. It can safely accommodate several people as we used. On the shores of the rivers in the area there are many such cargoes and huts that do not belong to anyone, any traveler may stop in them. We met two local hunters from Taimylara – this village is 120 km downstream, a little talked with them, they treated us with fresh venison, and went down the "Kazan" down the river.
After installing the camp Gennady Belyaev suits the bath. It’s very simple. Stove stove near the river. In the middle of the stove empty. There, in the deepening among the stones, firewood is laid, and the bonfire is divorced, which burns for quite a long time until water is warmed up, and the stones are not split. Warm water by installing buckets with water to fire. When the fire will progrit, and the stones and water will be warm enough, a special tent is stretching over the fire. Inside the tent Paul ripped by branches of trees that grow nearby. Further everything happens like in a regular bath. After the wage wishes can plunge into the river. And those who wish, believe me, were all.
And how dinner for us prepared our chef Vasily. Roast venison with brusarial sauce baked on coals in Foil Harius with olive herbs.
From these dishes it is impossible to tear off, and under a stack and in a good company. And if you add the smell of tundra, guitar and the absence around people for hundreds of kilometers, beautiful weather, then the taste of the dish becomes unique and indescribable.
Local fishermen often for catching Timeny use such a bait as an artificial mouse that leads its origin from prototypes used by the local population of hundreds of years ago. Such a bait is effective for the reason that the taper often climbs rodents for one reason or another of the river. However, at such a universal bait, as a mouse is perfectly reacting, not only the timeline, but also a major Lenok, who is also not averse to rodents.
But the first day to us trophies in the face of Tamery did not bring. What they just did not, change the brillons, methods of wiring, depth. Tymen did not want to go to our sophisticated tackle, there was not a single bunch, nor on the brillons, nor on the "mouse". And this is Olenek?! The same thing about which he was told to tell us familiar geologists.
In the evening sat down by the fire and began to keep advice. They came to the conclusion that because of the weather, the river was well warmed, and the taper of the fish was stitching and therefore you need to look for a place where a cold stream or a river falls, since this fish with warm sections goes to places with cooler water. Said – Made, Early in the morning went down the river, making stops for the sample. After another river, Alexey and Gennady decided to return to the camp, and I and I took spinning and headed for a small stream. Making Pokros. "Mouse" slowly demolides. I begin to impede a little. A sharp jerk, "mouse" disappears in white Burune. For a moment of water, a raspberry tail is shown. There is, so he is Tymen – for what we came here and came. Making rapid throws on the sides, and pressing, the fish tries to free themselves from the tee, but quickly tires and in a few minutes I give up. I bring it to a smooth pebble. It turned out to be a small, this first time, seven-eight kilograms.
A few minutes later I caught the same and I caught Vasily, but since we and one copy was for meals for my eyes, he let him go with a slight thing to smashed and until we came across. By the way, let go completely reanimated Tamery. And this is also science, I tell you. You can not immediately release the timate in depth – he might in the struggle, he can float up a belly and die. The larger the taper, the more he gets tired and the more time it is necessary to bring him to the feeling. Tymeya must be kept behind the tail, sending upstream and swing so that clean water was washed with the gills.
We returned to the camp, and this time Vasily began to conjure on his improvised kitchen. For a snack – Malosol Harius, on the first – ear from the Tamery, on the second pilaf of venison and a steak from the Tamery ..
Approached our end of our journey in amazingly beautiful places. Three days later we woven down the river to the village of Taimyl. In this we were assisted by local fishermen, which were selected on the path on two engine boats. Still, in the extreme north, people are very kind and attentive, never pass by, will always help both the case and the word.
Several tips for those who want to visit these places, be sure to take with you marsh boots. They will be very useful for you, sneakers are not for the tundra. Grab the medical aid kit, just in case. Be sure to take the assets and means of protection against mosquito bites. Tents Take protection from mosquitoes. Tent mats preferably inflatable. Do not forget warm and waterproof clothes. Non-frozen backpacks. Not excessive weapons – different animals walk along the tundra, we did not meet wild animals, but this does not mean that you will not meet with them. If possible, take photos and video equipment, portable solar panels for their charging. You have not seen such beauties yet, and you will certainly want to save seen beauty for memory and share them with friends.
A few days later we were already at home. From Taimylah, we took us a regular helicopter, which in the summer flies quite often. After an hour and a half we were already in Tiksi. The next day – Yakutsk. All romance and adventure ended. I really did not want to leave, but we hope to return to these places again. White nights and suitable sun in Yakutia. Beautiful landscapes of autumn tundra, extraordinary beauty "Olenek pillars", magnificent, delicious ear, bath on the banks of the river and songs by the fire under the guitar performed by our friends.
And I can definitely say that the places here are beautiful in any weather. There will always be fogs here, and licking with their damp cliffs, wrapped them into a wet, impenetrable robe. Will walk the wind, bringing something endless moro, then pleasant refreshing splashes. Will be infinitely standing the rocks, resisting winds and frosts. And only we will come here only for a while in order to feel like grain in an infinite cycle of nature. Rejoice when this harsh earth flourishes bright colors under the North Sun. And listen to the indescribable smell of flowering tundra.