I saw a butterfly on the snow
I saw a butterfly on the snow when "Upper promenade" in Davos. This gentle white creation fluffled over the whistest, virgin snow, and a young grass was blocked near the rogs and bloomed yellow flowers and fighters. The air was clean and cool, the sun was impressed, downstairs, in the valley, lay the town, and above him – to heaven – Mountain peaks rose. Was the end of February.
However, in order. In Switzerland, I was thanks to Switzerland Tourism Corporation, which organized a familiarization trip for journalists and representatives of travel agencies, and also thanks to the Swissair airline, which delivered us to this country. Already flight on the A-320 aircraft of a new generation was a pleasure and very pleasant preface on a trip to Switzerland. Comfortable leather chairs, magnificent, friendly service, delicious food. And striking technological level. Over the seats, as soon as the plane began to prepare for the takeoff, small empty applications dropped on liquid crystals. All the time of the flight they held a map with the exact location of the liner to this moment, and besides it – information about speed, height, temperature, time remaining to the target. Sometimes informational messages were interrupted by short films. In addition, every chair in this aircraft is equipped with a telephone. You can call through the satellite anywhere in Europe (though, for a fairly high price). In the future, you can call all over the planet, and also – to go online. That is, flying somewhere in the sky the plane will be the link of the World Communication Universe.
In Switzerland, I have already been repeatedly, however, in Canton, Graubyunden did not get. And the place is located in the south-east of the country, absolutely amazing. "GRAUBUNDEN", "Les Grisons", "Grigni" Or, on the fourth, few people famous for the official language of Switzerland, Retot-Romanez, "Grischuna" – The edge of the high mountain valleys, snow peaks, glaciers, purest lakes, streams and fast rivers. It is here that the origins of the three great rivers of Europe – Rhine, the Danube and on the three seas – Northern, Black and Adriatic. So graubyundden is rightly called "Roof of Europe". In all four languages, the name means "Gray", Why – incomprehensible. Here the biggest number of sunny days a year, the sky is incredibly blue, the snow is blinded, the alpine meadows are blunting, and the water in the lakes is striking his blue. To confess, before I suspected that photographers taking pictures for advertising posters use some special filters and a cunning retouch. But no. Everything is like in the photos, even better. To the question asked by me one of the locals, why they call their sparkling edge gray, I heard an ironic answer: "Do you know when we sometimes rain sometimes, then it becomes somewhat sir. ". It should be noted that in St. Moritz, the symbol of which is fairly the Golden Sun, 322 Sunny Day a year.
Amazing natural conditions and beauty of the edge made Graubyunden tourist paradise. I would rather call him tourist tibet. And if in Buddhist Tibet, as you know, live Buddha live, the living buddha rest industry live on this tourist roof of the world. About one of them further.
Comfort and level of service in graubyunden fully corresponds to the striking nature. There are classes on all tastes – any sport, summer and winter, water treatment and climatotherapy (and also, of course, there are many medical clinics of different specializations), hiking and horseback riding, casino and piano bars – and, of course, the opportunity to just indulge Lurestania.
Tourism in Graubyunden began developing a rapid pace in the middle of the last century. His pioneers became the British, passionate travel lovers. Someone Iohan-carried Badruutht, a resident of St. Moritz, the owner then another small hotel "Culm", suggested in 1864 to rest on the British to stay for the winter. He guaranteed that if they don’t like it, he will pay the way back. The British risked – and Badrutt did not have to get out. On the contrary, his guests for the next season brought their friends. It was the birth of winter tourism in Switzerland and, accordingly, winter sports.
Get to graubyunden in different ways – through Zurich, from Austria or Italy. We traveled from Zurich. First come to chickens (chur), a wonderful little town with an ancient church, clean narrow streets lying in the foothills of the Range ENGADIN. Further – transplant to the train company Rhaetische Bahn, "Retary railway". It is called so because in antiquity this area was called the Regition. Ultra-despair trains "Radian expensive" Connect the canthone cities, and you can also get to the north of Italy.
When you sit in the restaurant car, you eat a wonderful food, drinking it with excellent local wine, and for washed to full transparency, the windows are opening the breathtaking views – you feel that it really turned out to be on the roof of Europe. The abyss crossed by viaducts is replaced by wide valleys. The train climbs on the passing height more than 2,000 meters, goes into the tunnel, makes the loops, similar to the serpentines of the children’s railway. Outside the window reflects the sky blue lakes, falls out of snow-sowed powerful ate, flashed villages with church spiers, on the slopes there are trees chalets. You look at all this and think: is it true? Do me do not show a movie about Switzerland, made with the help of wisdom special effects? Especially this feeling is strong when you go to a carefully saved historical train: three trains, steam locomotive, in the car Wooden panels with paintings, armchairs, upholstered with red velvet, stuck brass handles. Think of that, my God, because in this train, built in 1928, went Charlie Chaplin and Sir Winshill Churchill, Vladimir Nabokov and Greta Garbo. The feeling of reality suddenly begins to retreat. But no, all truth, both the train, and beauty outside the window, even an elderly master with an alpine cane, sitting opposite and smoking fragrant "Havana".
Really, the fact that you are in 1997 and travel voices with the help of the so-called Swiss Pass – a travel document that gives the right throughout a certain time to use all types of public trans-port in Switzerland, at its discretion to choose a schedule and routes.
"Ren railway" delivered us to St. Moritz. Called this city in honor of St. Mauritius, the leader of the Legion, sent here for the pacification of wild mountain tribes. Before the battle, it was necessary to bring the victim to the pagan gods. Mauritius, being a Christian, refused, for which he was subjected to martyrdom. His soldiers, apparently, were ashamed of the deed and began to spread the teachings of Christ in their own environment and between the surrounding savages. This is the oldest resort of Canton Graubyundden and, perhaps, one of the oldest places on the planet, where people began to use the health gifts of mineral waters: excavations showed that there were more three thousand years ago "Casal".
The medical qualities of St. Morita explored and praised in the XVI century the Great Physician and Justice Paracels, specially visited these places. However, until the beginning of the XVIII century, local residents opposed the sources to be equipped properly, and the water was sold. They were afraid of the spirits of water that could not like strangers. The same paraceteshels, praising water quality from St. Moritz, warned pregnant women from excessive use by them, because, in his opinion, it could lead to miscarriage. On the other hand, it existed that this water, on the contrary, perfectly contributes to fertility. Therefore, pregnant ladies who wanted to get rid of an unwanted non-pleasant position came here here, and married couples who dreamed of children. Be that as it may, water from St. Moritz is rightfully considered to be giving and helps with many diseases.
So, Original St. Moritz was the resort with mineral waters. But gradually it began to come here and patients with tuberculosis, and a little boy, as well as lovers of rocks. And after the ingenious trick, invented by Johann Badrutht, the city became the center of winter tourism. He began to grow rapidly and build. On the shores of his lake lying at an altitude of 1856 meters, luxury hotels began to grow. The most famous of them, "Palace", still belongs to the family Badrutt. St. Moritz and its surroundings – Sellerina, Suvretta, Silvaplana – became a favorite vacation spot of rich and celebrities. Rested Crowned Operations, for example, King Sweden Gustav-Adolf and Aga-Khan. Thomas Mann and German Hesse, Charlie Chaplin and Douglas Ferbenks, Gloria Svenson and Alfred Hitchcock, Nietzsche and Caruso, Callas, Lord and Lady Deterding and Eva Peron. The list can be continued almost to infinity.
Did not leave his attention to St. Moritz and in. AND. Lenin. I always suspected that the stories about how he looked in the emigration that we were fed at school, did not quite correspond to reality. I was convinced when I found a record left in the book about St. Morica, left by Illichi in the book for guest guests "Walter" In Puntrant, place is not too cheap, especially for poor political immigrant. Unfortunately, Lenin’s aphorism quoted for some reason in the romance language, and I cite it on it: "Il Muond Gnaro Ad Esser, Ma El Gnaro Ad Esser Otramaing". My modest linguistic abilities suggest what it means something like "in the world is good everywhere, but it is good here differently".
The town still remains a favorite place of gathering fashionable businessmen, famous actors and other brilliant public. On his streets rustle "Rolls Royus", "Bentley", Black "Ferrari" and superdaded SUVs; In shop windows (and in St. Moritz, there are about 5,000 local shower and two times more visitors, there are shops of all superdowed firms, it is not necessary to go to London, Paris and Milan) sparkle jewels and make the latest achievements of the most famous designers; Galleries are naked products "Faberge" and works of Picasso. On the day of our arrival, the auction of the jewelery of Christiechs. And on the day of departure was to start the auction Sothebyx for Russian icons. Items offered for sale I managed to look only through the locked glass door: quite high-quality things of the XVII-XVIII centuries in good salary. Not my business is interested in how they got into Switzerland.
There is only one diner in the city – and that very expensive. On the frozen lake I discovered a stall – exactly as in our Moscow, only Champagne Louis Roederer is written on it. By the way, about the lake: after Lunch, he becomes a favorite place for the promenade of resort workers who do not ski and do not deal with other sports.
Looking around it for an hour, I was pretended to the public of the most different properties. Here was a dozen older New York Jews in black cashmere coats and black piles, about something lively conversations – not otherwise about diamond trade or fought by the Nazis Jewish money found in Swiss banks. Here were the ladies of Balzakovsky age, tanned daughter, in incredible mink coats and moon-boots from sparkling golden layers, embroidered with glass. (Generally rich their faders. In St. Moritz, I saw a lady in a denim costume, confused by Sobat.) Were here, naturally, the Japanese and Puzzled Italian Mafiosa or antique merchants with gold chains on the neck. As well as Indian Raja in cream silk padlons looking out from under a doodle coat, exquisite homosexual couples from London and a strict look of a girl from good French families. There were some personalities quite a loss – but obviously not simple. Russians, besides me, not yet. Although, by rumors, in "Palace" v "presidential rest" Lives some of our comparter. And everyone looked at each other, trying to understand who was who.
But, of course, St. Moritz is not only a Great Tusovka. This is a strikingly beautiful place – and the town itself with its narrow streets, ancient inclined, almost like the Pisa Tower, bell tower, a lush resort architecture and cozy restaurants, and its surroundings. High snowy mountains and chain lakes. Important cultural events often occur here – concerts and musical festivals. Amateurs can take hiking, collecting mushrooms in mountain forests or fishing on lakes (subject to the observance of Swiss rules of life). You can view archaeological finds of the times of Gallestadst culture, Druid stones, vest pillars installed by Julia Caesar, and ancient churches.
But, perhaps, the most important thing is that St. Moritz is one of the most important and oldest sports centers. Two winter Olympiads were held here – in 1928 and in 1948. In the last century, skiing began to develop – both mountain and plain. The slopes of the nearby mountains are ideal for skiing, and freezing lakes and valley spaces – for cross-country skiing. Now there has been a magnificent infrastructure with many lifts of different types and funicular, with tracks, great for both beginners and masters. The highest marks for skiers – Peak Corvach (3451 meters) and DRAVOLETS (2978), but there are many other items. Equipment and service, like all in Switzerland, excellent.
St. Moritz is famous for both the birthplace of many other types of winter sports. It was here that bobsles began to develop – and the first enthusiasts of this more than dangerous classes were again titled and famous. Bobsley’s prototype was a local mountain sport known as "Skeleton" – Skating on small sledes, for which the athlete lasted on the belly. Imagine what should be a person who is carrying in this position down the long and steep track – and the speed can reach 150 km / h! The names of the first heroes of Skeleton and to this day they are as the names of the Great, almost as the name of Wilhelm Telly, and membership in a skeleton club "Cross" Available only for "very, very important persons". In addition, in the number of favorite St. Moritsky sports activities includes an equestrian polo on ice, racing on the ice, dog run, flying on paraglids and deltaplans with landing on the lake, and also "Curling" – Riding flat rounded stones on ice with a mop. Will not forget, naturally, quite ordinary sports – figure skating and skating. For less trained physically persons there is an opportunity to ride on sledding on well-trained tracks passing through wonderful mountain forests.
And in the summer – everything is anything. For example, tennis, horseback riding, climbing, golf, windsurfing on the lake.
St. Moritz Place not only for exclusively rich people. In addition to hotels "Palace", "Culm", "Carlton" and "Suwretta" There are institutions with more moderate prices. As well as apartments with kitchens, which can be removed for 30-40 Swiss francs per day. There is a huge supermarket where you can catch fire. But still it must be borne in mind that the prices in it percent of 50 above the Middle Eastern.
In general, this amazing place fully justifies the advertising slogan, placed on all booklets, posters and leaflets dedicated to St. Moritz: "SANKT-MORITZ, TOP OF THE WORLD". It all depends on what you think about "Top of the world". This may be the annoying snobbery of Nuvorish – and God forbid, if the Novorusskiy Neanderthals will be blocked about this place. You can admire the wonders of the Nature of the Upper Energadine, this Wonderful Mountain Ridge, from which the water flows the Great European Rivers. You can and desirable to play sports.
And now about Davos. Everyone knows, unlike St. Morita. His advertising slogan – "Where people meet". Note, do not just meet, and people. We must pay tribute to the authors of this idea. In Davos, the Arafat with Rabin meets, and Chernomyrdin with the mountain, and God knows anyone who with whom. Davos ideology is that all people and all equal (naturally, sometimes some are equally different).
For the inhabitants of St. Moritz Davos too "Popular" a place. No one looks around on the parties in the hope of seeing a celebrity, because there is a good time here – take part in the Congress or the Conference (which in Davos more than three hundred per year), skiing or to be in one of the local clinics. In addition to the famous World Davos Forum, most congresses are medical. Davrasters proudly talk about the recent International Congress on Medicine Fractures. Just at the right moment very well for the organizers some skier broke all the members. He was taken to the congress center, where the operating room was equipped, he reinforced his best fracture specialist, the operation was broadcast in real time for a giant video screen.
The patient, however, was also lucky: the treatment was free. In general, representatives of the Davos tourist business in every way insist that the city is no longer an exclusively medical resort and that, moreover, his image as a place of recovery or dying for consuming is completely out of the truth. And it is true. Opportunities for sports here just amazing. Here is a huge indoor rink and the biggest skating rink in Europe. Here are very extended skiing for plain riding lovers, passing in wonderful places: along the lake, on the majestic fir forest, according to the adjacent narrow valleys. And about the possibilities for mining ride just do not have to say.
Davos highways, lifts and all concomitant infrastructure are something perfect to perfection. The city lies at an altitude of 1560 meters. Both sides of the valley are greatly adapted for skating. Maximum stations heights – 2663 meters (Weissfluuokh) on the right side of the valley and 2980 (Pisha) – on the left. And on both tracks you can ride almost to the city. In addition, there is even more than a dozen other tracks, and most of them are connected between their network lifts. And of course, everywhere – from the highest to lower items there are rescue stations, means of communication and cozy restaurants. Here you can do high-speed descent, freestyle, snowboarding. In short, all. You can ride to descend out the track. But it is not very welcome: despite all the technical tricks, the danger of avalanger remains.
And the view that opens from the height, for example, with Weiss Fluokh, will hit whose mind. Mountain chains go somewhere far away, the sun throws the shadow on the snow, then azure, then merging with the pearl haze haze. Under the legs suddenly, the eagle hangs, tumble in the wind of Isyin-black mountain crows, and deeply below the town with its tiny houses, microscopic cars and almost indistinguishable people.
My sports activities in Davos were limited to showering on sleds along a two-kilometer highway, looping around the mountain forest, past the spikes, already covered by spring grass, past non-freezing streams. The feeling of rarity is pleasant: you’re going to yourself, sometimes puts on the turn, slow down, and then – a portion of the road, where you can simply look around the sides, watch it, how to fall on the snow fir bump or zashka shining the shining wool in the sun squirrel. Then, however, I had to drag heavy sledges with a kilometer to the lower point of the route – below the snow has already saved.
Davos himself, dividing on Davos-Village and Davos-Square, unlike St. Moritz, produces an extremely modest impression. This is exactly what is called "Modest charm of the bourgeoisie". There are no luxury shops and galleries – more and more sporting goods Yes Pharmacy.
No one wants to attract attention. It is known that Prince Charles regularly arrives in Davos skiing, but his visits pass unnoticed. During the forum in the city, naturally, increased security measures are introduced, however (in any case, the locals are assumed) the life of Davos does not change dramatically. There are several pompous buildings in the city – for example, the most luxurious of hotels, "Gazebo", And another hotel, "Zehof". In general, the architecture of Davos first produces an impression that the German suburb hit the middle hand. Then you start to understand that everything is not so simple. Builders of Davos deliberately try to make you pay more attention to nature around and on people than on buildings. Even a congress center, one of the most famous buildings on the planet, represents a very modest construction that will not immediately and notice. The same is the hotel "Berghof", Former sanatorium and prototype "Magic Mountain" Thomas Mann (Great Writer lived in this hotel several times). novel "Magic mountain" – One of my favorite books, and, naturally, I wanted to look at the diversity of the place where the long and strange years of Hans Castorp, Madame Shosha and Minger Peppercorn.
I was not disappointed. I just made sure that "relationship between art and reality" Not so simple, as a different writer, Chernyshevsky presented it. A small and modest building has turned into mann into a huge, reflecting reality, filled with the infinite wealth of human relations. And the short descent to the main street of Davos, the Lower Promenade, the only meters in a hundred-length – in the size of the size of life dividing the inhabitants "Magic Mountain" and residents of Davos. At the same time, being in Davos, you feel that, despite the boiling and modern resort life, despite the motley of sports outfits and the forguable functionality of the buildings, somewhere in the depths, under these obvious circumference, is hidden that mysterious, which prompted Thomas Mann to make a place The actions of their masterpiece is this city.
Davos has oddity: almost all of its buildings are flat roofs. Usually in mountain architecture, on the contrary: the roofs are made with sharp, duples so that abundant snow does not accumulate on them. I tried to solve a riddle, asking a person five local. The answer was incomprehensible to me. "No, it is not for solarium. We see whether it is not very well the case with water, so we spend the snow on the roofs. And besides, with a flat roof snow can not fall to someone on the head." With this argument, I can still agree, although the precautions are so heavy (for the roof), I still seem to be excessive.
But here about water – I remained in bewilderment. Davos is not in Sugar, near the lake, there are many sources, river and streams. By the way, tap water here is so clean that it is not forbid to drink her guests dear hotels.
We were settled in the hotel "Zehof", It seems the second on the prestige in Davos. In any case, Chernomyrdin and Arafat lived here, as well as many other forum visitors. I do not know what rooms live VIP; My was, like everything in Davos, close to perfection on functionality, cleanliness and disrost. The only thing that surprised not only me, but also the other companions, is that the sound of the TV and the radio was broadcast in the bathroom.
Kitchen B "Zehof" – actually excellent, like a wines card. The lightest perch with souffle from asparagus and white veal under the wine sauce I have shook off with great pleasure. Davos still has the fact that a large number of farms have been preserved in the district (some are even in almost the city). Farmers supplied in local restaurants and hotels pair milk from cows fed on the local alpine meadows, and other wonderful dairy products.
In Davos, we were arranged a trip, it was not even with a movie, but with hallucination. We sat in the evening in high strollers with fur cavities, harnessed by the top three, and were lucky under the clues of Bubakers dinner somewhere in a mountain restaurant. Rowed an hour, shine in the black sky a month, the stars shone, a silver ring was dropped, the believer in a folk costume skipped a whip and reported to horses on the incomprehensible local German dialect. From fir branches Snow flakes silently flown, windows in houses on the slopes of the mountains. Lacked only luminous wolf eyes in the dark – this switzerland tourism was still not able to foresee.
They brought to the old chalet, where this family-run mountain restaurant was. And there, for Sugrev, a glass of local vodka, infused on mountain herbs, and then – fondue. Who does not know – this is not so much a dish as an rare pleasant way to spend time. Fondue that in french means "melted", maybe cheese or any meat. We treated us "Fondue chinoise", that is, the Chinese fondue. Why it was so called, I do not know, there was nothing particular Asian in it. But very tasty. A large boiler standing on the alcohol was empty on the table, brown broth from a variety of spicy herbs and spices. And on dishes – thin chopped raw veal, turkey lap, transparent beef carpaccio. With the help of special spoons on long handles, this snack must be immersed in the broth and wait a few minutes or seconds until it reaches the condition. It is clear that as the feasting taste of the broth changes, changing the taste of meat.
To the hotel we, unfortunately, took by bus. Although, on the other hand, the opposite horses can already be busting. And with a sense of measure in Switzerland.
Russians in Davos are no longer evidence, although they prevail, naturally, German-speaking Swiss, Germans, Italians and Americans. But I still met several compatriots. And also had the happiness to see in "Zehof" "Russian exhibition". Unfortunately, my fears were justified: it turned out to be the counter with matryoshki, khokhloma samovars and modern Palekh not better quality. Everything was garnished with lapties and balalaika. Traded some ladies from Peter. To the question of how things are going, they honestly admitted that not very: Swiss and other bourgeois, they say, no extra penny will not give. If I were a bourgeois – not quite moronic, it is desirable – I would also, perhaps, I did not give an extra penny in Davos.
And in general Davos less cosmopolitan space than St. Moritz. Unlike the latter, here not everyone speaks French or in Italian, and some cost one German. This dictates the market: Most visitors – German-speaking. The same is the case with television in the hotel. Magnificent bouquet of German companies, a few American, Italian, one Japanese and two Fratsus. But but the huge range of radio stations in different countries. After a tasty dinner, I completely felt like a Swiss resort personnel, I listened to the radio station "the importance of Being Earnest" Oscar Wilde Po "BBC-Culture".
At the beginning I talked about the fact that Switzerland – and Graubyunden in particular – is a tourist Tibet, where living buddhas live inhabit. In this case, Lhasa, in my opinion, it is necessary to name Puttiesin, the place lying in the valley at an altitude of 1800 meters, in the upper engadines, not far from St. Morita. Word "Pontresin" I learned from one familiar Parisian of American origin (good) and even better financial situation. She told me: "If you suddenly find yourself in Les Grisons, do not waste time at Davos and St. Moritz. Go to Pontraisin".
I did not quite follow it to the Council, but I still got into Pontisyin. Thank God and Circumstances. This village is 1715 shower, where a year is resting to 4,000 people. Nature around the wonderful, but not even in it – it is as beautiful as in other adjacent places. The essence in some enlightened calm, reigning here. In Pontèrsein 27 hotels and guest houses, including those glorified as "Walter" (V. AND. Lenin and this hotel did not leave no attention). However, Ponutrain Pearl, her Potala Palace – "Grand Hotel Kronenhof". Its construction began in 1850, this is a magnificent palace building located on the edge of the valley, with its own fleet, golf and other pleasures. A Dalai Lama "Kronenhof" – his director, yorg Tommen.
I was not lucky enough to live in this hotel, we only drank champagne in his living room. But I still walked through his corridors and table, passed through the kitchen, saw the wine cellar and admired the winter mountain landscape, eating his windows. When we entered "Kronenhof", Someone from the members of our group said: "It smells strange here". Poor, he got used to the sterile smell of American hotels like "Hilton". V "Kronenhof" It smells like an adjacent generation of measured and confident life – old leather and closer parquet, expensive cigars and rare perfumes, lively flowers and food prepared. Each, a little disassembling in the antiques, immediately understand that this chest is a real "Louis XV", And not a modern replica, and the carpet on the floor is true Persian, and not done last year in Turkey.
Wherein "Kronenhof" – Not museum. This is a living place to live. Jorg Tommen so said: "There, in St. Moritz, spend money. To live to live". And when I tried to learn from him who honored guests of his hotel, he replied that "Golden Book" They have no, since all guests are equally honorable. But nevertheless nodded on the lord sitting at the neighboring table: "This is Sir Norbert Foster" (one of the most prominent modern architects). When I groaned about what I heard David Bowie often stops in "Kronenhof", Mr. Tommen confirmed this, but by expressing his face, I realized that Bowie for him is a guest, like all the other. What to say if Iehahhi Menukhin did not consider to play for himself to play here at lunch.
Before the goodbye, I told him that I really liked the creaking parquet in the corridors. Here, Tommoman caught fire with a shirky light in the eyes: "You know, we will soon have a meeting, and we will decide whether it is worth changing the floors. But I will do everything so that this does not happen". I, too, at least it is unlikely to get again in "Kronenhof", I really hope that the parquet in it will continue to creak the same glorious way.
And one more friend "Kronenhof" It was that although in this hotel the Russians have not yet been (in any case, over the past decades), Tommen’s secretary speaks in Russian.
So, from Graubünden, from Grishun, expressing in reto-romance, I returned to Moscow. I do not know if I did guess the sense of quotation from Lenin, but in this case I agree with him. In Moscow is also good, but there, in Switzerland, is good different.