In Bangladesh not only water

The story of Bangladesh, which appeared on a political map 30 years ago, akin to thriller. Conspiracies, military coups. Of the four presidents, three were killed. And also – hopeless poverty and natural disasters. But what is the most amazing, Bangladeshns are not sad, work, like ants, live by hopes.

"About my homeland around the world, and you, in your new Russia, remember, only when another flood is collapsed on it. I assure in Bangladesh – not only water. There are land with ancient and interesting people". With this accomplishment, Bangladesh Consul in Delhi handed me a passport with a visa.

. In the stone fence of one of the houses in Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh, laid out a mosaic portrait. Banganandhu lived in the house – a big friend. So local inhabitants call Mojibur Rakhman, the first premiere of independent Bangladesh. Cabinet has been preserved, where March 26, 1971 Rahman sketched a short declaration, calling for compatriots to expel Pakistani soldiers from the Bangladesh land.

"Father independence" I managed to transfer this paper to trusted persons a few minutes before Pakistanis arrested him and took it to Islamabad to betray the court of the military tribunal. On the same day, Pakistani troops under the command of General Tikka Khan, called a later butcher, staged a massacre across Bangladesh. But the appeal Rakhman has read the day on the radio from the studio in the port city of Chittagong Major Ziyur Rakhman. In December 1971, the Pakistani Occupation Corps was forced to crash.

In January 1972, under pressure from the international public opinion, Mudzhib Rakhman was released from prison and returned to his homeland. But fate policy was tragic.

In the house-museum there is a staircase on which Mudzhib Rakhman was killed. Near the photo with the first premiere open on the steps. Under it inscription: "Here you can shed tears!"

Announces national interests, secularism, socialism and democracy, Mudzhib Rahman – like many other Asian leaders in those years in those years – rose to the way of creating personal power regime. Constitution, single-party system, economic crisis, state of emergency, persecution of opponents. In August 1975, a group of young officers broke into the house of Rachman at night and cut off the premiere family.

His daughter Hasina Vazed, the current Prime Minister, in a happy randomness was absent. She was abroad.

15 years in power were military. And the people in the meantime beggar and beggar. It was then that the UN assigned Bangladesh to the category of least developed states. Annual per capita income – 150 dollars, half of the population – beyond poverty, third – in extreme poverty. Henry Kissinger, being the US Secretary of State, said the founding whole world phrase: "Bangladesh is a bottom of global garbage". Stamp remained for a long time. Bangladeshsians remember this and, as Jamil Ahsan, director of the Institute of International and Strategic Studies of Bangladesh told me, "never forgive these words american".

In the office of the Institute’s director (he in the rank of General Major) hangs the board with the gold-plated names of the predecessors. What is not a name, then "General" (although after the elections of 1991, officers moved away from politics and engaged in a purely military business). I ask: "Why? That the generals are better than civilian versed in geopolitics?" Explanation of Jamil Ahsana – Institute, Mol, created by the joint efforts of the Ministry of Defense and Foreign Affairs – did not convince. Already at the exit from the Institute, one of his employees with an eye explained that "Military, leaving, it would seem, outwardly from politics, stayed next to her ready to return to an emergency".

— With political struggle, natural disasters. Poverty remains a problem "number one". Hungry masses easy to manipulate. Poverty multiplied by flooding from flooding, can be used as a rattling mixture.

In confirmation of this revelation, just in those holiday days when I arrived in Dhaka, mass rallies rolled around the capital "per" and "against" Governments headed by Hasina Vazed. Even before leaving Delhi, Indian colleagues warned me that Bangladesh – Country "Hartalov", T.E. Universal strikes. Elected in 1996 parliament paralyzed. Slave nationalist party opposition block boycott its sessions from the first day of formation. He heads the Party of Beamum Halad Zya Rahman or – how her Bangladeshmists briefly refer to – Bemum Zia. Some islarovy even talk about the country like this: "This is a kitchen with two hostess. What can be there! Some slots".

Beam Zia was the Prime Minister after the elections of 1991. The opposition front, led by the People’s League led by Hasina Vazed, permanent strikes forced her government to resign and conduct early elections. Now everything is repeated. Only ladies changed roles. Begum Zia insists on immediate care of the office in resignation and extraordinary elections. The method of struggle is the same – strikes. The accusations are the same – incompetence, corruption, political repression.

Population Bangladesh – 130 million. Area – 144 thousand square kilometers. That is, about 900 people live on each square. Just anthill! And Dhaka and yes. "Lights of the big city" Manyat provincials. In the capital, new thousands of people running from the unemployment and the needs of peasants are poured daily, mostly young. In the city they have only one application – take a bike and deliver passengers for the living pennies. A third of revenues, of course, selects the owner of the stroller. Bicycle – By the way, Chinese production – feeds two Ricksch-shifts. Each family has 5–8 people.

All vocobusiness in the hands of mafia and trade unions, the border between which, if there is, is the ghost. The city is divided by "zones of influence". Brought to the end "zones" — Peel, hire another. No one will call for someone else’s territory. Take a bike and disassemble, and Ricksha himself enjoy. Happens, kill. Nobody considered how much Booriksh in the city. But they are everywhere. Walk people, bricks, pipes, refrigerators. For cars, leave one band of the carriageway. Rotate anywhere and always unexpected. Traffic lights that fingers recalculate, they are not a decree. Gouda are not humble – zero attention. At one time, especially for Ricks took the extreme right strip, they were outdo it with a small border. But the rickshads do not use it. And the streets have become even. Sit in Dhaka behind the wheel – you need to have nerves thicker sea rope, reaction, like a player in ping pong, and a tinted throat to let go through a fixed window "Compliments" Veloriksh.

Because of the rally of the opposition in one of the central parks of the capital I had to look for a travel path. During normal mode, ride solid flour. And then there are still streets, the police wrap up. Thought to get to the Communists turned around, and drove up to the headquarters of the Communist Party in the Dark. The place itself found not immediately. Some street trader suggested where to go. Current underground. The building is still built, and Manzurul Akhsan Khan, the head of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Bangladesh, took us in the basement among the construction trash. A massive man against the background of a huge plywood red star with a sickle and a hammer impressed. On the wall to the left of it – a large photo of the young Fidel Castro in military uniform and with a gun, on the right of the shelves – the full collection of works by Kim Il Sen. Said that "present".

I do not know, sincerely or not, but emptied optimism. True, how many members of the party did not report. Stressed that "Communism in Bangladesh is the future". Very crushed about the collapse of the USSR and the collapse of the CPSU. In Soviet years, he regularly traveled to the Soviet Union. Then on courses, then for treatment, then on vacation. Children drove. I learned there. Two years ago sent his Secretary-General to Moscow. He met with Zyuganov and Ampilov. About the results of the meeting – no word. In this default, deep disappointment is heard and disadvantaged. In parliament, the Communist Party is not represented. But the effect of in the thorough masses is still. As well as the hatred of enemies. January 20 during a communist rally in Dhaka near the Presidium Bomb exploded. Six people died. Manzulur himself Ahsan Khan did not suffer.

Nostalgic feelings for the former Soviet Union are experiencing, however, not only left. At all levels – from the taxi driver to the Prime Minister – I had to hear about "Special relation" Bangladesh to Russia as the succession of the USSR. In December 1972, the Soviet Union was the first of the permanent members of the UN Security Council, who recognized Bangladesh sovereignty. We were the first to help the young state – cleared the port in Chittagong from Min, gave the combat aircraft, put the tractor, gave scholarship students. In the metropolitan association of graduates of Soviet and Russian universities, two thousand already universal Bangladeshs.

. I went to Sididirgang for the construction of a power station – there also met local specialists with our diplomas. They are a good layer between Russian "Technopromexport", Which is building construction, and the Bangladesh Department of Energy Development. The parties signed an agreement in 1995. Five years later, three power blocks station must enter the design capacity.

Our chief builder Oleg Titov admitted that before picking his wife to Bangladesh in 1993, showed her a video film about Dhaka and the country. She burst out. What to say, the conditions are far from our, Russian. The construction was taken by barbed wire and set armed guard. From the construction site worn everything that can be carried. Grenades exploded. I had to find our people "mutual language" with local, let’s say, "leaders". In the details they, of course, do not go. But showed a dozen houses, each for 10 apartments that build together with the station and which, after our specialists are released, will be sold to local residents.

The inventiveness of our specialists, however, had to be surprised in everything. The men live without wives and – didn’t even believe it at first – the bake of bread in the oven, quasse the cabbage for a snack, gave themselves a mini-television studio and catch almost all Russian programs. Make a truly big deal: electricity for Bangladesh – the first necessary condition for its further development.

Now about military cooperation. His story has long and began with a gift. In the 72nd year, we transferred transport An-42 by Bangladeshs. Its model is among others standing in the office of the commander of the Vice-Marshal Jamala Uddda Ahmed. "We are very pleased with the results of the partnership and no doubt in its continuation", — He said to me, showing the rest of the models. To be accurate, on the MiG-29 fighter model.

From the Cabinet of the Commander, we are going to the base of Kurmitol located nearby, where on March 22, six MiG-29 Multipurpose fighters and two sparks were joined in the Country Air Force and two Sparks – Training MIG-29.

Between Moscow and Dakka there is an intergovernmental agreement on military-technical cooperation from February 1999. All defense contracts go to its development. With the Russian aircraft industry "Moment" Agreement for Bangladeshtsev is profitable: a delayed payment, the presence of a Russian technical brigade for the period of the warranty period, the training of Bangladesh pilots both in Russia and in their homeland. By the way, all together and repeatedly sharpened attention on the fact that Bangladesh, with all his poverty, always extended its debt.

Our techniques led by Eugene Pershin and instructors who are managed by the Honored Test pilot of Russia Alexander Pelekh are working in Kurmitol. Alexander in response to the question "how are you?" Lukovo and good-naturedly laughs, silent and displays from the hangar to the concrete under the sun standing in Zenith. Heat from above, heat from the heated canvas below, heat from running engines. Only here says: "Here is the sending "Work – Murzni" It does not manage to implement". Local pilots, notes, "and physically good, and the head is clear". Of these, 10 people – with a preliminary flight of 600 hours – were trained in Russia and now transmit skills to colleagues.

. Approached the day of departure, and from the office of the Prime Minister, everything was not a response to a request to arrange an interview with the head of government. Promised to do "Everything possible" and Shardzhil Hassan, just appointed by the ambassador to Moscow a career diplomat, a representative of the ancient kind of Dakki abilities, and a businessman Nur Ali, closely related to Russia. Questions were transferred by me to the office of the Prime Minister still from Delhi by fax. I was answered: "Wait for the call".

Called under the evening. Asked to come to the official residence. "Perhaps Madame Prime Minister will find a minute". Through the gate they missed after careful inspection. Secretary commanded a huge man in Islamic Balahon to heaven and with a white beard-shovel. In the contrast with the figure, his face radiated good nature. But he looked inside the dictoon. We were held in the waiting room, where a large portrait of Mujibur Rakhman, producing from the hands of pigeons. After 10-15 minutes they said that "Madame Toward", what was she today "Three rally", what, "Maybe she will accept tomorrow". The consolation was given good apple juice. Slender officer spent before entering.

Tomorrow was the day of departure. And day opening session of parliament. Officers of the Office – Low Bow. They held me in the Parliament Building, to the Parliamentary Adoption Prime Minister and still suffered a minute. When Hasina Vazed went to the office in the break of the session, I was presented. With a prerequisite "one minute, not a single question, only common secular words" and promise that during the meeting will give written answers.

But it turned out more. The Prime Minister itself led a conversation, or rather a monologue. He spoke about her "The main task is to approve in the country of democracy, ensuring human rights, economic progress". Noted "Special feelings of sympathy that Bangladesh people nourish Russia". Stopped briefly on the economic achievements of his government for four and a half years. Spoke friendly, calm, confident. On the face of excellent makeup. Dressed in sari from magnificent fabric. Already then I was told that Hasina Vazed "The most educated woman" Bangladesh in the history of the country. As promised, the Prime Minister presented written answers to the press secretary, and he handed me. You could rush to the computer and transmit an interview to Moscow.

I will give here only those words about relations between our countries. Prime Minister focused on "visits at the highest political level". According to her conviction, they "will make a significant contribution to further strengthening friendly relations". The fact is that Hasina Vazed this year invited President Vladimir Putin to visit Dhaka on an official visit. The Russian leader for its part sent her an invitation to bring a visit to Moscow.

There was a Soviet period of active and multilateral cooperation between the two countries, there was a time of kickback back, due to the protest of Muslim Bangladesh against the participation of the USSR in Afghan affairs. There were years of stagnation when the restructuring was going, the Soviet Union was collapsed, a new Russia was born. Now there is a prominent. But there were no contacts between the parties at the highest level after 1974, after the trip Mujibur Rakhman to Moscow. In Dhaka they want and achieve. "The governments of the two countries decided to agree on a number of cooperation agreements, culture and education, health care and consular issues. The projects of agreements they already exchanged", — reported in an interview with Hasina Vazed.

In the past few years, an annual economic growth was 5 percent. For the first time since the conquest of independence, the country fully provides himself with rice. There are sufficient stocks of grain to withstand even strong floods. So it was with rampant water elements two years ago. The affected families received rice in sufficient for survival quantity and free.

In Dhaka, almost every five or six buildings – construction. In the area of ​​Gulshan, where most foreign embassies are located, the rich mansions are building. With carved doors made of valuable wood, trendy furniture from Singapore, colored stained glass windows from Italy. Firm "Crown Industris", Which from the Soviet still imports the tractor and recently signed a new contract for Vladimir T-25A2, built a wing specially under the center of computer software developments. In the center of the capital there was a chance to take part in the opening of a new hotel whose host in young years has traded on the street of lovers artists. I saw the bulk of a 5-star hotel in a web of bamboo forests. Not inferior "Sheraton" in Singapore or Hong Kong.

30 years in history has become an independent country – it is only entry into the time of maturity. "We intend to celebrate the golden anniversary of our independence in 2021 as an economically strong and prosperous country", — emphasized Hasina Vazed. I want to believe that it will. But true. Bangladesh, located in the delta of several rivers, is one of the first victims of the World Flood, which is threatened as a result of global climate warming. By 2030, according to the UN forecast, there may be an area in the country under water, at which 24 million people live.

But a thousand times the diplomat was right, giving me a visa in Delhi: "I assure we have not only water".