In Greece – "Dickarem"

Wild, very wild vacation I expected me in Greece, when I climbed there alone to relax for two weeks and found that the plastic card does not want to give me money. Situation for recently, unfortunately, quite typical. Borrowed for the Safety of the meager cash has been grabbed to change the ticket for a charter flight and fly straight tomorrow. But I decided to stay and survive. My example can be another science.

Saraike of marble

In a situation of sudden lack of money, some prejudices seemed to be unshakable. The main thing is that it is necessary to sleep abroad on white sheets and in the hotel at least with some number of asterisks. It suddenly appears and an extraordinary look of view, like that which allows the drunks to unmistakably search for an empty bottle at the bottom of the garbage. I am awakened by homeless abilities made it possible to detect a whole free personal sanatorium at the very edge of the sea.

Stopping to admire the sea distance in longing and the extension of the first unfortunate day, I came across the eye on a slate roof, hidden in the bushes between the expensive and rocky seashore. To the roof led from the road barely a noticeable path – most of the prosperous holidaymakers went down a few steps to play need and follow. I became interested and went down the path down. At the end, a fence was discovered from a rusty barbed wire, unlocked gate, and behind her a ledge of two stone shed, connected by the stone ladder. It was someone beautifully built and, it seems, a desert dacha. For the next days, I had to become a squatter, that is, by the unauthorized invader of someone else’s housing.

Looking ahead, I will say that a hut, like I found, for Greece – a rather typical phenomenon. Residents of cities seek to break out on nature and to the sea, and harnesses their kindergarten with a house or fishing shelter. Catering cooperatives are not accepted, and the buildings are scattered by one. In many ways it is difficult and understand whether they fell apart another hundred years ago, or life boils. The walls are stacked from unleashed stone blocks and shut off the everight of rocky dust, the shutters are constantly closed from the heat, the grass at the house seems to not grow.

In Greece, everything consists of stone, mostly limestone (and this is marble). You’re going, look: Halongs are unloaded, the earth around two kilometers was covered with white powder – a quarry. At every steps, marble slabs, decorated with signboard "Marmara".

Only seeing the wiring of the Greek landscape – the mountainous races of the stones covered with screaming grass and liquid shrub, I understood everything to the end why the ancient Greeks were so fascinated by sculpture and architecture, and not painting. There was nothing particularly to draw and nothing, and the stone is full. Put a ships on the block – there will be a fortress, one-hand column, cutting the roof – the house, a little more comfortable, come out – Apollo will come out.

By the way, about living space. When you drive in Greece, a lot of good two-three-storey villas rushes into the eyes, but for some reason unfinished, as if abandoned. They give the landscape somewhat untidy. I was explained that real estate firms in advance brick or concrete casters, which can stand so years, and then looking for buyers. The convenience is that the buyer can order further finish in its choice. Square meter of such an unfinished villa costs about $ 550, and the minimum section for it is at a virgin about $ 3,800.

But back, to my hut. Before leaving, I managed to read in the guide, that the Greek police do not greet the night in the open sky, although he does not heat much. A large problem for them in large cities can be robbers, and in the south – snakes and other reptiles. On the way, I really noticed a lot of dried skins snakes crushed by wheels. And on one of the small railway stations, the departure of the train was detained due to the fact that the conductors were fascinated by the finishing of a huge thick snake crawling out of the bushes.

It is clear that faithful measures had to take. Under the cheek in the lower, economic, shedachik, I saw the cozoker with a broken spring and decided to arrange my own bed on it, so as not to sleep right on earth. In the Saraike, it did not make sense – the rain in the velvet season was not planned. Yes, and in four walls, I would feel like in the Western.

As for the police, in my position it was not necessary to beware of it, but the owner. Therefore, I dedicated the whole evening to the investigative work: the details of life restored his appearance and habits. I had to strain linguistic abilities, even in the Greek I did not in the tooth. The piles of colorful Greek newspapers, which was littered with a vertium, residential Saraike, were preserved almost for all past tentes, but most importantly, they were all only for July and August. What I concluded that the owner for this year has finished his holiday and, at least in the coming days, I have nothing to fear.

Tolo – satellite nappleon

The spa place in which I found the shelter was called Tolo. It is located on the southern coast of Peloponnese, twenty minutes by bus from Naphpleon.

Nappleon attracted me by the fact that in one note some Russian tourist praised him as a beautiful city of Greece. I decided to go here from thessalonik, where my plane flew. I got a convenient train, which is serving from thessalonik at eight in the morning and arrives in Athens half the fourth day. The ticket cost, on European concepts, very cheap – $ 14 to one end. The plane would have cost $ 70.

Nappleon city is really beautiful and, moreover, conveniently located. From Athens here you can get in three hours by train. The train goes from the station serving the southern direction (next to the northern station) twice a day: half the eighth in the morning and four days, and costs $ 6 to one end.

The city of Mycena, through which the train passes, you can see the remains of the Mycenaean civilization. The oldest culture, according to scientists, came to Greece from the island of Crete, and her first reference point on the mainland were Mikuna. Athens, with which all ancient Greece often identifies, bloomed for a half thousand years later.

Naphpane’s atmosphere not so much dicar-tourist, how much souvenir-bohemian. Therefore, prices even on modest hotels here turned out to be almost twice as high as possible in Athens ($ 25-35 instead of $ 15-20). And in the city itself there was no beach. To swim, it was necessary to go a kilometer two around the mountain with a fortress on top. Fortress, like elegant houses in the old part of the city, are built by the Venetians who ruled here in the Middle Ages.

But Tolo, the beach-sports satellite of Nafpleon, turned out to be really pearl. True, hotels here are as expensive and three-quarters are occupied by tourist firms, which for the Skop season is bought by places. But along the whole town stretches a beautiful beach with crystal clear calm water and a smooth sand bottom without algae. The sea view is reviving the island in a semi-kilometer from the shore, inviting you to get to it or on aquatic bike.

In Tolo, there are as many as six campgrounds. Individual hire tents are not issued, you must come with your own, but in one of the campsites there are bungalows. I have already managed to test this – plywood, painted in a blue color, a tongue with a small window and a low door. Konurka would have eaten for $ 10 per day – if I did not find my free choir.

In the hut, I healed quite a romantic life, inaccessible to any of the inhabitants of the surrounding expensive hotels. Those tightly attempted in the morning from the buffet, slept clock to nine and a half with rugs and balls across the road to the beach. Many are strange people! – I did not get to the sea, laying down in the priestly frogs.

I was at the dawn at the dawn raised the loud rings of fishermen, which go to the bay. Then I could sunbathe as naked, covered by all eyes. Or on its own stone path descend to the sea and sail on the island and back. Swimsters sailing down at the bottom just looked at the mysterious lonely structure from the rock, I was his inhabitant.

And at night I stayed alone with a huge yellow moon and with the sea. The moon challenged fantastic light on the rocks, the sea mysteriously breathe meters in ten under me, recalling that I was in the country of Homer and Odyssey. Weoning I would not know any live soul.

Squotterism encouraged me to every minute vigilance. A small black backpack, his only luggage, I always held a fully assembled form held by the boat in the barn. When the owner appears, I could grab it and sniff. And if the owner had appeared without me, I would not have noticed anything, but I would find a way to stretch the backpack. Belt bag with holy saints – passport, money remnants and a ticket, I shoved in a ceiling with a tweeted lamp.

In the first night there was a complication in the form of mosquitoes. I did not think that in the scorched Sun of Greece near the sea can be found mosquitoes. From them I was hidden on the night with a rubber flooring for a boat. I had to spend money on scaping aerosol. Without knowledge of the language, it is difficult – I bought, I figured it out, and it turned out not scaring, but softening after the bite. Dead Parish. In the picture and there – there is a huge black mosquito with my paws. Replaced.

Then I fought for a while with a rat, which was attempted on my food kitomka, suspended on the wall on the clothes hanger. When the kitomka was transported to the branch of the tree, ants were also interested in. Those who, sowing, got out back from Kotomki, I tried to put pressure immediately, considering their information carriers.

Wild life and constant 30-degree heat quickly and somehow themselves suggested by the diet. It was not necessary to invent anything, everything was already invented by the ancient Greeks.

The dacnik had light and water, but I did not take a boiler, and therefore I had to drink no coffee or tea for breakfast, but just water, putting it with bread. And it turned out not so bad. In the first days it seemed that something was lacking like nicotine smokers. But soon I began to feel even easier. When then, scary, I still bought a can of instant coffee and began to warm the water in the stones in the sun, I found that a special need for black powder and I do not feel. In the absence of a boiler disappeared and the need to drink boiling water. In fact, where does a modern person come from such a need – all drinking or terribly hot, or terribly cold? Typical perversion of civilization.

Hand herself stretched to a bottle of bitter white wine – "Retqins", or cheaper, "Hercules", Total $ 2 per liter. But immediately diluted with water half. Once I laughed at one of the accusation points, before the stray philosopher, Socrates: Drinks undiluted wine (and not long, but only dry). And here I realized that in local conditions, dry wine acts like vodka – do not dilute, fall out in the sediment.

It turned out to be the most convenient and cheaply three components. Bread type Lavasha (he is here, as in the Middle East, is called pit), cheap cheapest and tomatoes. Sometimes fruits bought them – Oranges from local gardens ($ 0.60 kilo) or as low-cost cherries on the market ($ 1.eight). All this does not deteriorate and not stomach in the heat. Even leaving tourists Gyros ($ 1.2) – meat chips, embedded in a wrapped cone, is perceived hard. Once only, tired of saving, I ordered in the restaurant Greek dish number one: Musaku ($ 4.5). This is a juicy potato casserole with chopped meat, eggplants and cheese.

I’m regretfully looking at people who are stubbornly looking for an intermediary in the face of travel agencies only to buy them to buy them and set them to the hotel. They deprive themselves the most important – sense of adventure, choices. I firmly follow the habit of riding without the mediation of travel agencies, and thus traveled quite a lot of countries and seats, having received only a visa.

Similar romance, I agree, not everyone likes. But you have a single time to see several times more than in the robust tourist herd. Question and money. Third of all amounts inevitably overpay travel a travel agency. But the hotel, in absentia, chosen and paid, may not be the most successful at the location and price. Why deprive yourself choosing? On one hotel specified in the catalog is usually found another four or five, not at all bad.

In Nice, for example, in the summer, my wife and daughter and my daughter took a beautiful hotel room with a balcony, a fridge, a kitchen stove (!) and two beds total value $ 30 per day for two adults and a child of ten years. I emphasize, not for everyone, but on all three. In Barcelona for the room overlooking the legendary Rambla Boulevard Price was $ 35. In Cannes had to pay a little more – $ 40. In the same price, there was a living in the center of Amsterdam, in the Latin Quarter of Paris and in Naples. In Rome and Florence, where we declared a few days before Easter, requested $ 55 a day.

True, mandatory part of my tactics – know where to land at least on the day of arrival. In order not to scour in an unfamiliar city after midnight under torrential rain, you need to have one or two hotel addresses or at least figure out where mainly cheap hotels are located.

And for this enough to go to the bookstore and see the guidebook. Buy it not necessarily, addresses can be remembered and immediately record. True, guidebooks are different, and that in one passes as the highest, in another marked the pyramid of prices.

My favorite specially designed for "backpacks" – American Let’s GO Series Guide. The guidebooks of this series have in most countries visited by tourists, and provides detailed information with addresses, prices and even the details of the hotel decoration. In the West Let’s Go there is in every bookstore with a section of tourism, but in Moscow, you can try to find it or a similar one – for example, a guide to Lonely Planet, Le Petit Fute.

On foot to the ruins of Sparta

Safely living in a hut with a week, I decided to get out of the berry and ride on Pellllll,. First point where I got a bus through a mountain pass was Sparta.

Buses to Greece are somewhat more expensive than the train, a trip from Nafpleon to Athens, for example, is $ 8 from Thessalonik to Athens – at $ 25. But the bus network is much branched and they go faster and more often trains. You can buy a ticket at the bus station bus station or right on the bus at the conductor. Only it is better to ask the driver where the car goes, the plates behind the glass are often deceptive.

You can walk to the ruins of ancient Sparta in the northern direction on the main street. But the ruins themselves are not talking about the first majesty of the city, which challenged the power of Athens over the peloponnesis. A strong impression is made of mountains, steep trembling over the settlement. Looking at them, you begin to understand, from where they drew their battle and ascetic spirit ancient Spartans. True, I never understood what kind of rocks they dumped their infallible children.

By bus overcoming another mountain pass, I found myself in the city of Kalamata, the most southern of large cities in mainland Greece. There is a nice beach, clean water and a beautiful view of the huge mountain that goes into the sea. But the city is somehow not very well planned: the center is separated from the sea by the distance of a kilometer in a half, which each time you need to overcome. And in 1986 he was also thoroughly destroyed by an earthquake. Only ten people died, but a quarter was damaged from houses. Most are so standing unreasonable, adding the city of gloomy. But whereby to live free. However, in Kalamate, there was a good hotel for only $ 13, and I allowed myself to quietly wash out and searched on white sheets.

Passing the coastal cities of Cyparisia and Pyrgos, who seemed to me in crucible and inexpressive, I got a railway to the port of Patras. This city is good for lovers of the Mediterranean port exotics. Day and night your life boils here. In the evening, the flow of tourists rushes for a walk to the main berth. In the city, the innumerable set of mopeds – at three o’clock in the morning they rush under the windows with the same crazy crac, as in the midst of a business day. Where they all need it, it is not clear. Narrow streets with niches in the first floors, creating a canopy from the heat, double the roar. At night, it is absolutely impossible to sleep.

Motoseflames from carefree Greeks accepted while driving is not on the head, but it has been done under the elbow. And the law seems to be observed, and the head is not hot. Only a poor police officer, designed to file an example, have to wear them for appointment.

Closed my circular route Corinth. Not far from the city you can see a grand conservation – Corinthian canal. When the train crosses it, a very straight straight line, cut in a solid basalt channel with a length of six kilometers, with ripped walls with a height of almost one hundred meters. You look at the left – you see one sea, right – Other. The Channel’s Channel was carried away by the Roman Emperor Nero, narrow there with six thousand Jewish prisoners and the first to hit the golden hammer on the rock. But the slaves did not cope, and the case did one French company only at the end of the nineteenth century.

What kind of greek people?

The standard tourist image of the Greek is: sits in the fez behind the red checkered scam and the whole evening squeezes wine from the counters. This image is not quite true. Tablecloths are common here of a variety of kitchen flowers, and instead of exotic wine in the taverns, the Greeks usually drink just beer.

Some prefer immediately after work or at home on the balcony to drink UZO – pretty nasty taste, a mixture of anise vodka, drinking it with cold water and putting a fresh tomature.

But in general, winepidium is not for the Greeks of the national problem. Among young people holding the table of trendy cafes, rarely see the wine glass. Favorite drink consists of a spoon of soluble coffee, stacked with ice water, cream and sugar. Such a refreshing mone, topped with a cap of thick beige foam, pulls clock through the tube, glancing at passersby and at sea.

But you still love to chat the Greeks. At home they do not sit. In his free time, but it begins somewhere to the afternoon, the local men are going to a favorite place and begin, how we would say, Balad. In our latitudes, where everyone is sitting on the houses, you do not notice how many free time people have when they do not know where to give themselves. Here it rushes into the eyes.

Twenty-thirty people participate in the gathering, the whole color of a small town. Go from the group to the group, the hands are ridiculous, pull each other into the chest, something fiercely defend. And all at the same time, as rosary, stuck with tremendous bundles of keys – the strange painful habit of the male population. Lasts so until late in the evening. Women do not participate, only pull men at the end of home.

Arrange your hands with a Christmas tree with palms forward, stick a little belly, reject the head of the Welcome, as if in indignation, as such an opponent could say, stick out loudly – and you will receive the personification of the arcing Grek.

About the Greeks say that everyone sees in itself an unmanifested Alexander Macedon. Greek consciousness looks like a Russian split, a complex of arrogance-owliness in relation to developed countries of Europe. It lives at the same time in the glorious past, and in a pretty capital of the present.

Because of the Turkish rule, which was overthrown only in 1829, Greece missed the Renaissance Epoch, and the Reformation, and the Start of the Industrial Revolution. Giving cultural light throughout Europe, the country is now forced to be content with his reflections on the rights of the distant southern province.

In Greece - savage

But in communication such spiritual sores do not affect. Greeks Soft, Unsess, Luko-Goodova. Sometimes only they slip stripping slightly to die. As, for example, the employees of the newspaper kiosk, which, having found the only stood brand in 80 drachms, began to confine that it was just such enough for a postcard. I had to buy, and then in another kiosk two steps it turned out that the brand is needed in 120 drachms.

Overnight overlooking Parthenon

Returning to the hut on Sunday at sunset, I discovered my confusion that someone visited in her weekend.

Of course it was the owner. Tolstoy bunch of bamboo trunks that I do not stumble about them, threw onto the roof, he stubbornly shifted on the old place, across the entrance from the wicket. The wicket, which I took the wire, so as not to climb curious, was again open. Strange owner stubborn. Barely having a nose, I realized that it was impossible to appear here. And suddenly he did not leave, but went to the disco or in the sea to give?

There was a choice – or daily camping for the entire upcoming week, or daily nutrition. Power was chosen.

Began a new stage of the wild. The nearest night was to spend in the literal open-air – on the beach. Needed new skills. To go swim, how, for example, hide on an even open place your treasury – a waist bag? The answer is extremely simple: to bury it in the sand – only when no one sees. Place for beach night I guessed to choose away from the lanterns and dressed darker to merge with the terrain. But also to heal is not quite on the essay, and so that the human spirit close to the snakes and other ill-wishers. This place was found nearby, at the camping "Castra", From the outside of the fence facing the beach, simply speaking – under the fence. Camping was chosen by German tourists, and therefore was distinguished by exemplary cleanliness and observance of the outstand exactly at 23-00.

It turned out that until the first half of the night, the sand warms, and from the second half begins to suck from you warm. On top of the shorts were dressed bright pants, which I was taken with myself in a calculation on the zeeping of the novel in some nice seaside restaurant. The second shirt is sculpted the second, it is the last. I called it a coat. By the way, in Moscow I work a lawyer and go to work in beautiful ties.

Overnight at all without any shelter turned out to be very uncomfortable. Man in nature wants at least somewhere to bug as a little animal in mink. Before dawn, I barely cleaned. I was delighted as the Savior – it was even not worried yet, but gave the right to go somewhere.

Next Dawn I met on a bench on the hill Pnix in Athens. Just above the cave, where Socrates were signed before death. The cave is a notch in a hill size with a small room, closed by a thick rusty grille.

What can be more beautiful – open your eyes and see the dazzling white parfenon on the Acropolis hill in the rays of the rising sun? At that moment I told myself that I bless a slender card, who had a money deprived of me, but presented so unusual sensations.

I found a barrel of Diogen, in which he slept, like a dog. Barrel was not a barrel, but as if a small arcuate bridge in the center of an ancient city, laid out of a bonded clay stone. Such asylum was enough to hide from the rain.

What amazes in the neighborhood with Greek monuments – this is coming from them an unlosage freshness of human thought and feelings. All subsequent – only the pigstream, interpretation and passion. Greeks were given to rely solely on their internal understanding of truth and beauty. Nobody accused them in original sin, did not make it quote the classics of some "Izm", teach axioms and theorems – they themselves came up with them. Simply put, nobody is dried onto their brains, they could only write with a clean sheet.

How to go to Olympus

With a night train from Athens in Thessaloniki, I passed the median, completely deserted part of Greece and, not reaching the end point, went in the city of Leptokarya. In this place, the sea harmoniously complement each other, with a lot of campgrounds along it, and the mountains, namely the highest peak of Greece – Olymp (2917 meters).

Starting point of the ascent on Olympus – Litohoro City. A bus goes from the city of Katerini to him. But I had to keep savings, step from the sea six kilometers on foot.

Before the mountain walk scheduled the next day, sleeping for me and did not give me. Far over midnight, local boys arranged a competition for katal boards on the main square stairs, where I misfortune and lay down. During this time, I well learned continuously repeated with Greek swearing – "Malaca" (Literally transfer this person, self-made love with him).

Repeating the learned word, I swore from the square to the next park and discarded the stone parapet so that I was not noticeable from the sidewalk. I thought to find a brief. But now defeated dogs. They turned out to be active nightlife and a whole war behind the territory with a loud gavage and gnawing. Under the end, the shaggy black dog, offended by the loss, climbing me and the friendship settled next to me, hoping to find mutual understanding.

But already at the early morning I managed to go on a well-planned tourist trail going along a stormy mountain river, to advance kilometers five to Olympus. True, the climb begins from the village of Renize, to which from Litohoro to go as much eighteen kilometers. Looking for everyone. Two paid mountain shelters were built for them. But I had a fairly beautiful view of the top, with small snowy stripes on it, and I turned back to the railway.

In the train, with a fading heart, I extended the Conductor remaining drachmas, fearing, which may not be enough to thessalonik. But enough, and even stayed to the bus to the airport ($ 0.40).

In Greece, conductors in general in meaning. Each train is five to six people. Before departing, they, in the soaked from sweat uniforms of blue shirts, fucked along the wagons, echoes and repay, as if they are sent not to the composition, but a space rocket. However, a rare train leaves at least without a decade. And on the main route connecting the north and south of the country, serving an hour later and arrive later than two – quite in the order of things.

Thessaloniki: Sea, fur coats and churches

Thessaloniki – port city, industrial and noisy. But the charm of the Mediterranean port, which the patterns conquer, in thessaloniki somehow not expressed. The sea is terribly dirty. To swim, you need to go kilometers twenty towards the airport. Whole quarters die by Russian signs: "Skin – fur. Wholesale and Retail". The selected fur coats are hanging right away from the balconies and dried. Although the relationship has subtropical elda to fur coats?

In thessaloniki, many lovely, half of the ancient Vizantine churches in the land of the ancient. The view of the Russian Orthodox Church somehow communicates with snow, christmas tree, sleigh with puments. And then suddenly it turns out that the Orthodox piping may be coherent with palm and red sand. Although, in essence, Christianity in this climate and born.

I was waiting for the last night torment at the station in thessaloniki. Sly Station – Greeks put wide and fairly long wooden shops for waiting, but blocked them with armrests so as not to lie down. Hoping to sleep, I traveled under the armrests legs and head. But at one o’clock in the morning, upon arrival of the last train, a sanitary hour was announced until the morning and the whole station was generally closed.

The same wandering as I have moved to a 24-hour cafe on the terraska at the station. There had to sit on a white openwork highchair and pretend to be drinking tea. And what head to the chest bowed – it thought so.

At half an hour of seating to my exhausted feet, flies of flies from all over the air conditioning, sparkling showcases of the waiting room. Having turned away from the public, I took out of the napkin and douglas the residue of cheese. Only when the plane broke away from the ground, I realized that he was saved. Stewardles began to spread breakfast, and I leaned back in the chair in the blissful deme and summed up the final balance of spending. Two-week wild rest in Greece, with the intersection of it by train twice from end to the end, cost only $ 200. Three nights in hotels, eleven – in the open sky.

"You have coffee?" – The stuardess got out of the drema. "No, wine. And be kind, dilute with mineral water half."

In Greece - savage

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