In pursuit of giants
Los Piramides – Here, perhaps, the only word that is worth learn in Spanish, if you are going to Mexico to go through the trails of ancient civilizations. Mastering with this word, you can safely go to the ancient cities of Mexican Highlands, virgin jungle chiapas or on the plains of Yukotan. You can be sure: you will be understood and you will come . We decided to start with Teotihuakan.
Mexican buses are chisty, comfortable and punctual, and the roads are quite decent all the way took less than an hour – excellent. But, approaching, we were very disappointed before the pyramids appeared all signs of the tourist residents Traders, taxi drivers, guides and crowds of tourists nearby is a small bazaar – a luxurious source of silver jewelry inlaid by pearl, masks of ancient gods from radiant obsidian and all sorts of copies of items extracted from Mexican Kladov. But after five minutes I wanted to be alone, and we rushed forward and up – on the top of the pyramid of the moon.
The people here were smaller here, and it can be seen far around ahead – the pyramid of the Sun, huge, to the indecent destination by Japanese tourists and local schoolchildren. In the side of the pyramid of the all-idea favorite of God, the priests and the rulers – Ketzalcoatlia, the feathers of the Snake.
We stood and looked down, on the path of the dead, according to which you just went to say that once there was a canal filled with water, and the sun rising above the plateau lit a mirror surface, giving birth to amazing visual effects. The name of the channel was given by Aztec, who came here in seven centuries after life froze here. During his heyday, an ancient city was populated more than Rome of Caesaries or London Shakespeare’s times.
According to the legend, theotioacan was built with giants in order to turn people into gods, otherwise it is difficult to explain the dimensions of the steps leading up, even long-legged Germans and Finns have to strain. What to us, then we rose on all fours.
About the divine nature of the pyramid of Teotihuacan speaks and their location. It corresponds to the three stars in the Orion belt (absolutely the same as in the three great pyramids in Giza). Standing here, I felt the secret of the presence of secrecy. Eternity over head. Eternity under the legs.
The path to the next point of our route – the Great Pyramid of Chaulula – lying southeast of Mexico City. Cholul Pyramid – the biggest in the world.
Rather, it was, before its destruction: in volume, she was superior to the pyramid of Heops.
Ancient Mexicans adored to build a new pyramid temple around the old. The effect of matryoshka turned out: inside the Cholly pyramid there are two more, more ancient of the 8-kilometer tunnel, a breakthorn archaeologists, only a few hundred meters are left for tourists. But they are enough to see the walls of all three periods. Outside the pyramid is posted by giant stone plates covered with an ornamental carvings, and on top it has a crown (or a crown). By order of Ernan Cortez, the pyramid was looted and flooded with land and clay, and the church was put on her destroyed vertex. As a sign of victory new gods over old.
After two impressive inspections, we decided to translate the Spirit in some quiet and cute town. Oaxaca, perhaps, the most important of all. This city is associated with the name of Carlos Castaneda, and is also the center of Mescal production – crude tequila with a taste of brandy. This wonderful drink can be tasting here everywhere, and completely free and to complete exhaustion.
The center of Oaxaca is built up by the buildings of the XVI century, which have not changed at all since the time of the Conquists. By the way, it is in them there are almost all hotels (the room for two costs about 23 dollars).
What can be done in ohak if there is nothing to do? The answer is obvious: buy Indian mats. Go for them is better to the next village of Teotitlan del Wallea, where they are actually, and Tkut.
Rest is over. Desperate entry, more similar to takeoff – and we are on top of Monte Alban overlook the endless mountainous country covered with large yellow flowers and ruins. Before us, a museum with shameless steles and bas-reliefs. At one of them, an elephant image, more precisely, prehistoric mastodont, which is extinct here about 40 thousand years ago. Near the famous – dancers. They do not quietly sleep with scientists inexplicable while tie with more ancient northern culture of rolling people. The only thing that is known for them is known – they were the first culture in Mesoamerica. Olmeki invented everything that subsequently inherited ancient Maya: hieroglyphic writing, the number of zero, unknown, by the way, the Greeks and Romans, two calendars – the sunny and ritual lunar and the cult of jaguar.
Another Olmeki is known for giant stone heads, the largest of which weighs about 30 tons! And, of course, the first pyramids on the continent.
San Cristobal de la CDSAS
Another pause in our pyramid comprehension. Lighting your impressions, we are going farther and farther to the east until we get into the small and infinitely charming town of San Cristobal de la Casas. What he is Slary? First, the earliest Christian church, secondly, inexpensive and very warm Indian poncho, and thirdly, and for us it is perhaps the most interesting, excellent quality that is doing here for exporting to the States. Capturing yourself with boots and poncho, we are ready for descent to the valley, into the world of wet jungle and the Maya Indians.
Representatives of the Nice Homo Tunsticus tribe are rushing here, in the very heart of lacan forests to see the famous and magnificent ancient city – Pyramids, Temples, Steam Baths, Tower with Observatory. All this was the once capital of the Mayan state. In 1952, archaeologists surveyed the local pyramid of the inscriptions, found the burial of Palenk, the ruler of Pakal, who lived in the VII century. Its sarcophagus, weight of 20 tons, was covered with a carved lid. Inside there was a ruler’s body. It was completely covered with jewel jewelry. Today, all these treasures are transferred to the Anthropology Museum in Mexico City, and here, in Palenk, there was only a copy of the famous carved stove. But not Palenka was the apogee of our pyramidal odisseas. We have revealed my arms of Yucatan Peninsula.
Probably, any normal person in our place will finally abandon from the endless contemplation of stones. Any normal person would have donkey for a long time somewhere in a resort town in a good hotel overlooking the Caribbean Sea and led the idle life of the beach tourist. We also decided to become normal for several days, but they could not refuse the ancient stones.
The choice fell on a small coastal place to Tulum (translated), where the ruins and the sea were. Lying on an unnatural white beach, it’s good to meet dawn, sunbathe and swim right in the archaeological zone. Swim, focusing on the temple of the descending God, and sunbathe, looking through the eyelashes on the ruler’s mausoleum by name . Cove here is small, but the water and the beach is cleaner than in the Healthcan resistant Cancun, and the situation is much romantic. Pelicans and eagles fly above the head, and in bushes rest carefully fattening and non-hazardous iguany. Excellent vacation before throwing in Chichen Izu.
Chichen-Itsa for Mexico Something like Red Square for Moscow or Eiffel Tower for Paris not to visit her somehow uncomfortable, but to visit it means to give in to herd feeling. There is another proven way to visit, but do not look like.
All the time in Chichen Ice, I thought about Ketzalcoatle. Living here Toltec were brilliant artists and artisans. All and the figure of Chuck Moole with a flat bowl on the stomach, where he left the hearts of the sacrificed, and the wall of the skulls, the exact repetition of the wall in Tula, and the game playground.
We walked to the temple of the warriors. Through a colonnade surrounding it, the main structure of Chichen-Itsi was seen – the pyramid of Ketzalcoatlia. In the days of the equinox, the shadow in the form of a penny snake slides down the steps and disappears after 3 hours and 22 minutes. It remains only to perplex how Toltec could achieve this.
From the pyramid of Ketzalcoatil, we went to the sacred well of the victims – a giant natural karst education during the centuries, the Mayan population of Chichen-Itsi threw to the well to wear the gods. A good fee for water, that is, human sacrifices were considered for life. At the beginning of the 20th century, the American archaeologist Thompson, who worked here for a long 20 years extracted from the well, and probably, the only treasure in the history of Mayalogia 30,000 items. Today, copies of the found gold and silver items are sold in a jewelry store next door.
Ushmal and Wizard Pyramid
Enriching the Mayan gold, we went to Ushmal. This is one of the main cities-states of the country of the PAU to turn on the cabins with its palace of 1000 masks, Sailai with the Palace of the ruler in the ancient style and Labnu with its Triumphal Arch. All these attractions can be driven in one day, stopping in every place at the hour. To do this, it is best to rent a car and feel free. In the tourist bus to the inspection of each place, including the bus, twenty minutes are given minutes.
However, we still looked ushmal: the house of the turtles and the house of pigeons, an accurate female monastery and the pyramid of the old sorcerer. According to the legend in Ushmal, a wise wizard dwarf. Once he joined the ruler of Ushmal in the duel. The test that the ruler conceived was to build a huge pyramid in one night. Dwarf test stood and became the ruler of the city. Since then, in the midst of the Ushmal, a huge pyramid is minted, which was subsequently twice twice, before the current species acquired.
Here, in Ushmale, our journey ended on the pyramid route. I was forgiven with these strange facilities that have already managed to love. Forgated until the next millennium.