In Tbilisi behind the Sun

Finding in Tbilisi, I want to speak toast every five minutes. "Gaumarjus Sakartvelos!" – "For the health of Georgia!". Otherwise, express emotions from staying in this city can not. The first thing amazing is an amazing panorama that looks in a new way with each of the mountain peaks surrounding Tbilisi.

Mtatsminda and Gorgasali

It is necessary to get on one of them and looks like this picture: the quarters of the tiers climb on the slopes of the hills on both sides of the Kura River, it is crowded from rock cliffs, spread out in small plain sites. Holy Mountain rises in the city center – Mtatsminda. Her foot is the historic core of the capital – the old town. It is built up with two-three-story stone and brick houses characteristic "Tbilisi architecture": with gallery and carved wooden balconies hanging over narrow streets.

Here, the cultural life of the city is buried. Artists exhibit their paintings, girls tkut carpets, and local souvenir sellers call them a shop. Buyer can also be treated with wine, and even give something to memory.

Main Street Tbilisi – Rustaveli Avenue. This is the most popular place for the Promenade – as Rambla in Barcelona or Nevsky in St. Petersburg. In the summer, inhabitants of Tbilisi, almost every night come out here.

At the beginning of the avenue – famous theater Shota Rustaveli. Next – Slender A number of cultural institutions and administrative buildings: Parliament of Georgia, Opera House, Philharmonic, Central Telegraph, Hotel "Mariott", and famous "Chuven Shevardnadze" or "Ears of Andropov, which Tbilisi call "The most stupid architectural decision of the Soviet era". it "misunderstanding" Now dismantle so that in its place to build or the hotel, whether the office center.

In the area of ​​Gorgasali Square there are vintage sulfur baths. Among them allocated orbelian, or a motley bath. Its portal with turrets is covered with motley soles. Baths themselves are below the ground level, only semicircular vaults stick on the surface. In the old days, people here not only werehed, but also communicated, walking around until dawn, and the city swarms were arranged on special days.

Now in the bath you can easily get, and in two hours spent in a smelling hydrogen sulfide water, well well. After the bath – be sure to drink a cup of water Lagidze. The famous mineral water is bottled into the cups and add different syrups: creamy, Tarkhun, chocolate, cherry. Everything is worth a penny, or rather, Tetri (the tenth of Georgian lari).

Features of national character

Local residents – People colorful. "Tbilisiets is a special breed", – They say they. It seems that here everyone knows each other. Drivers, meeting on the road, sign in greetings. "Tbilisiets six days a week works in the sweat of his face to bump all on the day of the seventh, for the world is cheaper than straw, and life is not worth debts, and all the world’s gold is worth a real male friendship!", – This brief, but a significant definition can be described by Georgian.

They don’t like to work much. Yes, it is clear: with such a climate, workolism is difficult to explain. True, this does not apply to government members and country management. Judging by how much they leave work, it can be assumed that they never sleep at all. Local journalists say that the interview with parliamentarians sometimes have to take off, and President Saakashvili leaves his administration sometimes in two nights. By the way, many residents know where the window of his office is located, and some even come to see how the president will leave the building.

Entertainment specific, but after "Pink" Revolution Citizens generally became more interested in those who manages the country. If you succeed "talk" Local residents – and this is easier than simple – they will gladly tell the details of the last political events and will share their impressions from the arrival of George Bush. Reviews are different, but euphoria from change in the country is still felt.

In man-tables

Special relation to Georgians to guests. If you are accepted like "Dsolkadze" – that is, as a friend and brother – then the gastronomic ecstasy is provided to you. Even, according to local residents, they have a special system: the area is not measured in square meters, but in "Man and tables".

The meals can last for hours, the wine is poured the river, and toasts are pronounced continuously. Before the feast, you choose a toasta, which raises the first glass. If there are women in the company, then the toast is mentioned "Sikvarulz Gaumarjus", that is "For love". Then go to long speeches about friendship, parents, good luck and world worldwide.

In Tbilisi behind the Sun

Musicians play in many Georgian restaurants. You can ask them to approach your table and sing "Suliko" or "Chito-Gudo". Of course, several lari musicians need to give away – otherwise they will be offended. By the way about prices: restaurants compared to Moscow, very cheap. Middle account for dinner in the company from ten people will cost about a hundred dollars. Music waiters will offer sazivi, smoked Suluguni cheese, Hinkali, spinach and cabbage in nut sauce, lamb kebabs and pork, flavored tarhoon, cornpage porridge "Gom".

There is still a place in the stomach? Then try ham "Lori", fried or smoked sausages "Kupati", Braised with spices lamb "Biglam", boiled meat with seasoning "Hashlam", Dish from Liver "Kuchmachi", Korean on Spit "Chanahi" And write broth from garlic groans "Hashi". Meat and bird can be taken by hand, but not rebel to use and cutlery. Bread is often used as a spoon for burning sauces and gravy. Greens, constantly present on the table, take hands and use "in principle" With any dish. Georgian cuisine – an integral part of the national flavor and need to have a lot of power to evaluate to appreciate.

Outside the city

The surroundings of Tbilisi also worth see. Twenty minutes by car – and you are in the ancient capital of Georgia – Mtskhete. The city is behind, and the mountains covered by the sun. Clean air with unaccustomed drunk, and the space that dismounting under his feet admires the greatness and tranquility. Here in the second half of the 5th century, the first Georgian king Vakhtang Gorgasali, which means translated "Wolf head", Built a large stone construction type of basilica. Six centuries later in her place grew by the monastery of Svetitskhovili – "Pillars life-giving".

The old legend claims that at the end of the construction of the temple, the architect, "for he surpassed in the skill of his teacher". If you look at the relief of the hand holding a trowel on the Western facade, you can read on Starogruzinsky: "Hand Slave Arsukidze, remember". Inside the monastery, twilight and silence – a place for silent privacy and philosophical reflection. The street is waiting for a surprise: in the building of the cathedral there are niches under the arches, in which man can stand. So, if he cross something from this position, the interlocutor will hear him for a hundred and even more than meters. Such is the acoustics.

Climb on a round site in front of the cathedral. Below can be seen how two rivers merge: Aragvi and Kura. One – Dirty-Yellow, Other – Emerald Green. At their intersection – like on the artist’s palette – the water stream acquires mustard color. Beauty fabulous. It becomes clear why the nature of their country is Georgians praise in songs.

Near the monastery, where they sell this "Borjomi", Musical instruments, Gorish hats and daggers, walks sad song old man. In his hands – Changi, Georgian Multi-Corner Plug Tool Type Harp. Noting visitors, the old man is taken to torment the strings with a double strength, eyes pointing to a hat with the laying. And around – the children are worn, shilling the trifle. They are unusual a lot – and in Tbilisi, and beyond. Note that they do not calm down until they receive a coin. And if you give a coin – the crowd will put the crowd of even more miserable young with hungry eyes and, Gorlana, will ask them to give them "on bread". In general, in Tbilisi of the poor and beggars – a lot. Some of them are sitting for years in the same place, and are waiting for passersby to be served. It does not surprise anyone, some citizens even know in the face "Self" beggars, and every time passing by, greet.

Such Tbilisi was introduced by a person who had fallen into this country for the first time: modern and patriarchal, rich and poor, cheerful and sad. But definitely – original. You can dig in his history for a long time – and the bottom is not visible. What exactly I don’t want to – so to leave it.

In Tbilisi behind the Sun

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