In the direction of Celts

Somewhere in Galicia hides the town with a wondrous apocalyptic name Phoenisterre – the edge of the earth, the edge of the world. But before him I did not reach. For all this land, stepped over Portugal, like a monastic hood, and there is the very edge of light.

Today, fishermen reign in the Galician shores – the city of Vigo is considered the sardine capital of Spain. And really, the fish is good here, and in a fresh mainstream, and – what the sin is to tatting, I tried it – in the form of canning. It is not surprising that in Vigo, the capital of that part of Galicia, which is bordered by Portugal, the port dominates. What determines the routine of the old quarters of Barrio de Berbes, where fish auctions are held in the morning, the day is a souvenir fair, and the cooking reigns in the evening. Moreover, the process of absorption of food theatrical: in decent places you drank, and sing. A foreigner is all any, everything seems authentic (so it actually is: Students perform, and they have a real energy). The performance also looks like a cooking of living at first octopus with repeated immersion in the iron barrel with boiling water. But the area of ​​the ignition and filling of local vodka passes under the accompaniment of some insanely funny texts that the Pestro dressed man reads under the laughter of those who understand the Galician. At the end of the beyt process, you will be given to the translation of its texts on all imaginable European languages. And really funny. This kind of culinary rituals from the number of cultural customs. After all, many works of art were once such, but remained part of the life, such as today’s electromyrs or interpretations to obtain potato mashed potatoes. Another similar surprise visited me at the Vigo Museum of Vigo, where a small, but impressive archaeological collection immerses you in the Paleolithic era (since I myself forget the dates, then I dare to suspect some readers for whom and informing Paleolithic numbers: 2 million – 10 thousand. years to N. NS.). Coarse chairs, sticks, first processed stones – what savage, squeezing the weapon in anticipation of the running mammoth and languishing from hunger, could imagine it under a bulletproof glass in a museum where the rare Russian traveler comes? Of course, a lot in the museum and Roman Stelll: Julius Caesar himself visited Vigo, who, at his time, Nicus Espacorum. Not a rumor, so the eye will determine the closeness of Latin to the current name of the city. The museum is located in the Pozo de Castrelos Pazo de Castrelos Palace in the Wing Garden Quinones De Leon. The last owner of the palace presented him in 1928 by the city. So the living situation in the style of Fusion (in the sense of mixing all styles from Renaissance), a collection of porcelain and family portraits are also available to the public. And on the second floor – a meeting of Galician art, informative on all sides. I especially liked the portrait of Berran Russell – and I myself do not understand what was the matter, whether in the picturesque qualities, or in the surprise of the appearance (I’m just an autobiography of Russell in "Foreign" was reading). Art Zenimo in Vigo: One evening can be visited on three versions and have time for a good concert. Famous Artist Laurezos (1912-1987), the foundation of which occupies a whole floor in the House of Art. Curious of all its work of the 30s, full of metaphysical images and freelance thinking. Bring from such an abundance of impressions only in parks. In Vigo enough. And on the top of the main hill of the city – the remains of Castillo de Castro. From here, an impressive view of the bay, ships and roofs, and right under the hill, the remains of the Celtic settlement are visible – it is just called "Castro". Celts, opposing Roman colonization, are important for local history. Still argue where they moved. According to one of theories, they went from Galicia to Britain. Traces of their stay here a lot – Celtic settlements are found not that at every corner, but still often. Proximity to the sea determines the passion for travel. Not far from Vigo, in Bayon, the first of the Kolumba ships arrived with the posting of new lands. In memory of this in the town there is an exact copy of Galloon. It can be visited, but I, as always, arrived incorrectly, on Tuesday, on the day of closed doors. But not upset: there is something in Bayon to see and without Novodelov. Cathedral Church at the junction of the Romanesque era and gothic with an amazing portal. Roman Bridge II century AD. Standing next to the medieval bridge, with the figure. Nicholas in the center (they say when he was opened, he went heavy rain, but around the Holy Water I was part, not to see the wooden sculpture). Royal fortress Castillo Monterreal, preserved for the XIV century surprisingly. Parador is located in the fortress (such a system of states in Spain, who took historical monuments), but all the wishing to walk on the walls with an indispensable inspection of the prison tower. According to legend, it contained a prisoner in an iron mask, which. However, it is not enough in a bright sun, I listened to the tour of the way although I was trying to lemon on an overhexless tree, I looked at the block of the bay, looking out for a huge statue of Our Lady Virgen de la Rock with a ship in the hands. She was dedicated to all those who are in the sea, and at the base hung a memorable chalkboard in honor of visiting her Caudillo Franco. Galicia he loved, he often came here to relax and give. His wife, they say, went on antique becks, selecting gifts for which no one paid (so with time, antiquary began to close, confirming about the approach of this vacation record), and most of the Caudillo, almost scuba divers sit down on the fishing rod of two-meter fish. I so strictly not lucky, yes, I am not a fisherman in kind, but calm charm of sunny places, where there is little tourist exotic, and a lot of ordinary hardworking and measured life, I also penetrate in full. After all, it is in such living cities, where, looking by twilight in the morning from the window of the hotel, you see people going on a bus stop, where everything is full of movements and rest at the same time, and you begin to feel the country as it is, and not as it looks on glossy prospectuses. And this charm of the edge of the world is the only thing that I have coincided with Caudillo. Once and for all.