In the Egyptian monastery

To visit Egypt now simply. This is the country of blessing, wide open for tourists. At any point of entry, at the airport, at the marine station or highway gearbox – the same procedure: you buy for 15 dollars a brand like a postal, and glue it to your passport. This is your visa – for a month.

Tourists who first turned out to be in Egypt, naturally, to the pyramids of Giza, to the old Mosques of Cairo, in the port of Alexandria. But here is the first hunger thicken, and you can "dig deeper"; In line – Luxor, Karnak, Aswan, less often – Abu-Simbel temple complex in the south of the country.

However, for some familiarity with Egypt is limited to Hurghada – Resort Mecca "New Russians". From accidentally heard conversation "Sweet couple": "No, I do not feel sorry for 150 bucks on an excursion to Cairo. But, understand, on the pyramids we lose the day of rest". And also, from the same series. On the way back in the plane I tell a neighbor about his trip to Egypt and I mention about Abu-Simbel. In reply: "I know! There was such a brandy!"

If someone heard something about Abu-Simbel, then about Dumey (in Europe he is known as a lady) In such a conversation, it makes no sense in such a conversation – there is no drink under such a name. Meanwhile, with this town lying in the north of the country, the most vivid episodes from the history of crusades are connected with.

About them each of us heard in school. Refresh old knowledge. The first crusade, undertaken by the appeal of Pope Urban II, began in 1096. His goal was to proclaim the liberation of Jerusalem and the coffin of the Lord from the power of Muslims. And it was achieved: in 1099, Jerusalem (al-Kuds, Holy, as His Arabs call) Pal. Soon after, the Jerusalem kingdom was formed, headed by Gottfried Boulevard.

However, the Arab rulers did not fall in spirit, united and caused crusaders a number of severe defeats. Failure during the three subsequent trips, the knights were convinced that the traditional path to Palestine – through the Bosphorus and along the Mediterranean coast – a fraught with new losses for them. That is why when preparing another crusade, it was decided to make a throw in Egypt. The purpose of the attack was chosen by Lamietta – a major city-fortress, a trading rival Alexandria.

If you look at the map of Egypt, then the current Dumey can find on one of the shipping sleeves in the Nile Delta, near the port Said. Once in the latter and having several free days, you can go to the historic hail. How are things going there now? In the morning I walk on the bus station. Here he is. Before the buses are sent for another half an hour. This is enough to, albeit a guide to find a brief information about the medieval lady. The siege of the city, to which the Crusaders sailed on May 27, 1218, continued a year and a half. Initially, the knights managed to capture the fortress tower. For this, they turned their ships in floating siege mechanisms and used long assault staircases. However, the defenders of the ladies were not going to surrender. Their unexpected allies began to spill the Nile and the epidemic that broke out among the soldiers of Christ.

A few months none nor the other party had a decisive advantage. Many knights, desperate in success, in the spring of 1219 left the army and returned to Europe. But others stubbornly continued the siege. Surrounded from all sides the city worried hunger. Egyptian Sultan al-Adil was then in Damascus. Having received the news of the seizure of the Lamiet Tower by Crusaders with some delay, he died of grief.

Brazda of the Board adopted his eldest son Al-Camille. To save a lady, the new Sultan offered the Crusaders to remove the siege of the city, promising in return to transfer them the Jerusalem kingdom and conclude peace for 30 years. However, these proposals were rejected. On the night of November 5, 1219, the Crusaders took the attack by a lady and plundered her. The population of the city during the siege declined almost three times: out of 8 thousand residents of alive remained 3 thousand. Honoriy III dad congratulated warrids with a victory.

However, as soon as it turned out, the joy was premature.

Between the winners, discord broke out, which noticeably weakened their strength. Nevertheless, they decided to continue the conquest of Egypt and in mid-1221 were besieged by Mansur – the city lying south of the ladies. But just at this time began the rapid spill of the Nile. Crusader camp flooded. Defenders of the city, pre-prepared to meet the water element, cut off the enemies to retreat. "Persons of Muslim nationality" Knights were tested on all sides, and those requested the world. It was decided to conclude a period of 8 years, which was signed by the relevant document on August 30, 1221. As it was agreed, the crusaders left the lady.

Now to blame immediately in the XIX century. In 1834-1835, the Russian state husband Abraham Sergeevich Norov (1795-1869) was visited in these parts. Participant of the Patriotic War of 1812, Minister of Folk Enlightenment, he twice made pilgrimage to the Middle East. In his book "Traveling in Egypt and Nubia" he’s writing: "Egypt has only two ports on the Mediterranean Sea: Alexandria and Damyattta, and since MEGMET Ali (Egypt’s governor from 1805 to 1848) found all things to focus on Alexandria, Lamietta lost, relatively, its port importance".

In Damietta A.WITH. Norov followed the Nile on a sailing vessel. On his way there was a city, which, like Lamietta, is a prominent place in the history of crusades. "Soon there were high minarets of Mansures, such a famous defeat of the Army of the French king Louis, nicknamed by the Holy, – and captive of this Christ-loving monarch, "writes the author. – From the northern side of Mansura passes Ashmun. Here was Polonen Valorous Louis. "

Promotion on the Nile was unhurried and continued at that time not one day. And our way by bus from Port Said to Dumish takes only an hour.

Yes, Lamyette in the Middle Ages got pretty. Another attack was subjected during the cross campaign under the seventh sequence number. He began under the leadership of the French king Louis IX, of which the nests mention. In early June 1249, the Crusaders landed at the mouth of the Nile and the lady was taken with the move, where they took a rich prey. Inspired by success, they besieged the fortress of Mansur and in early February 1250 he mastered it.

Meanwhile, the Arabs gathered a significant army led by the Sultan Mazzam Turan-Shaha. They managed to sink the Fleet of the Crusaders, who stood at Mansura, and cut off the knights from the ladies who served the supply of the supply. Christ of warriors in a panic fled from mansura, where they threatened a hungry death. Thousands of knights were captured. To the delight of Muslims, among the captured was Louis IX himself. He was released in May 1250 for a huge redemption. At the same time, the condition was assigned that the Crusaders would leave the Lamietties.

However, the humiliated by the captive of Louis decided to continue the crusade and remained in Palestine for another four years. France was sent the messenger with the command to move to the face of the king against "incorrect". However, the French know that the lesson received in Egypt is more than enough, ignored the appeals of their monarch. In vain waiting for volunteers in Palestine, Louis IX in April 1254 left the Middle East and returned to his homeland.

Once in modern Dumyat, I tried to imagine how he looked in the era of crusades. The city was protected by the triple wall belt and a powerful tower in the middle of the Nile. With a lady, she joined the bridge. In addition, thick iron chains, blocking access to the city from the Nile, were stretched across the river. Unfortunately, to this day, these vintage structures did not live. But early early: the city will reward guests by abundance of colorful spectacles.

In the evening, the festive revival reigned in Dumey. I got there on the eve of Ramadan – Muslim post – and clearly felt the intimate meaning of words: "Last, Nonane Denek. " Tomorrow there will be silence in the city. In the meantime, the embankment is braked by crowds of walking. Among them are sails of sweets, nuts. Heard the sounds of the drums. A particular demand for a paper jam cap with "Teschin language" upstairs. "Occapped" Teenagers are happy: they blow in a flexible tube missed through this exotic headdress, and the long funny funny is strained above their head "sausage". The goods are gripping: in the east love to the toy is bright, so that everything jumps, spinning, chopping.

Celebration ends late at night. In the morning I go out of the hotel hoping something to eat. According to the Orthodox calendar, the Christmas post has just ended, and then Muslim began immediately. Perhaps this is already busting. However, local people and foreigners have the right to act according to their habits. In addition to Muslims in Egypt, several million Coptic Christians live. So you need to look for Coptic Cherling, where me "Catch the right".

At the door of one of the restaurants in anticipation of the guests the owner sits. On the wrist of his right hand tattoo – a small cross. So the cops celebrate their belonging to Christianity. It knew the nor, who had about the Cophes: "I noticed the sign of the Cross, scorched on their hands". I go to the institution. In the front empty, but in the depths, behind the screen and curtains, the Coptic Family becomes chinno. I sit in the noise and get my portion of rice. Such here "rules of the game": You can not tempt the Muslims. Until the evening they are not allowed not only to eat, but also drink. During the day, during the heat, I do not pull on food, but about drinking.

Sugar cane juice uses special demand in Egypt. It grows well along the coast of the Nile and very che. The stems are passed through the press between the two cylinders-drums, and juice flows around the groove in the hub with ice. I go in "Juicer". Heat heating, sun in Zenith. But the institution is not empty. Now and then the thirsty. The invigorating fluid is poured into large polyethylene bags, and they carry out the devil. The seller fills the glass and invites me to the sideline, for the screen.

The case goes in the evening, and Muslims are preparing for "Talking". The tables are put out on the street, so the transport will not drive. However, cars and no – drivers were also hungry. "First shift" I fell off, and another party of consumers sits down for the tables. Sorry by S "Second shift" and get a quarter of roasted chicken with rice. Neighbors are quickly controlled with food by hand, and I see if a fork and knife are required. Their searches take time, I start eating late. Everyone has already finished the meal, and the attendants quickly removes tables with roadway. It is necessary to limit chicken alone. But the piece does not climb into the throat: I sit in the middle of the street at the table alone, and on both sides, the flow of cars.

The next day I continue to get acquainted with the city. A.WITH. Norov noted that "Lovely houses and mosques of lady daily destroy, but also in their decline resemble the former shine of the city". At the same time, he added: ". One of the mosques is decorated with beautiful columns, which moved here from the ruins of tenesus and tuna absorbed by the sea". Today Dumyat is slowly reborn, as evidenced by new buildings.

I pass by the mosque. Workers are busy business and only a skeleton look at a foreigner, rare in these parts. But for the boys there appeared unexpected entertainment. Like a hungry mosquito, they pounce on a wanderer of a predatory pack. "E Nam? HIV Country?" – hears from all sides. They do not care deeply, what is the name of the uninvited aliens and what country is he. The main thing is to show the rigor of knowledge of the English language received at school.

And adults in relation to a foreigner – the benevolence itself. Postponing things, guest will bring to the place, will give out of hand to hand, in general, the abyss will not give. He is for them as a child: in Arabic does not speak, the alphabet does not know, even in the figures is confused. After all, familiar to us "Arab" numbers here are written differently. And those donated words that the wanderer says to "Right" Arabic, no one understands – Local dialect here.

Machines with the guest are also kind and even affectionate. One of them offers ride around the neighborhood. The price is moderate how to refuse? And here we go to the road passing along the green fields. And on the horizon you can see the sails of fishing fellows – because Dumyat stands on one of the sleeves of the Neal delta. Hani – So my name is "Mobyl driver" – Muslim and keeps post. But he finishes (it goes in the evening) and invites me for dinner in "Ummu" – Local community. We return to the city – our horse in nicknamed Bango has already trawn. But Hani finally suits jumps. We are trying to overtake the boy sitting on the isaq, and this couple with truly donkey stubbornness does not want to give up. Over the agreed amount of Hani asks another pound. It’s not Bakshish, but on the feed for the Bango, which today worked well. Well, how to refuse!

Then go to dinner, or rather, breakfast. Seeking on the rugs near the shopping district. Before each, there is a rig with a stupid hand: rice, slices of potatoes, greens. Hani explains that all this is free. Expenditures take on three owners of nearby stores. They show respect for the community, and members "Umma" – Traders. So all here are dear people. But no one is in touch with food yet, everyone looks at the color TV screen, standing right right on the sidewalk. Now the screensaver goes: the view of Mecca minarets is replaced "Middle Plan" – by the image of kaaba; Begins reading Koran. Hands of eraths stretch to the plates: time went.

Tea we drink already elsewhere – Hani leads me to his familiar interpreter. Lovers of hookah are sitting here. Before each stands Shisha – a complex device, and smokers, tightening, "Let bubbles are allowed", Rocking smoke through a water vessel.

In a short time of stay in Dumey, there was no opportunity to engage in unhurried work at the local archive, immersed in the reading of foliants, looking for traces of the residence of the Crusaders at the walls of this city. However, all that can be cleaned here for sure of Western historians. And yet one "track" Review managed.

I sit on the bus, giving out of Dumish in Port Said. My place is behind the driver. Five minutes before departure, the cabin takes the young chauffeur. The heat has not slept yet, and there is a light shirt on it, from those that tons are sent from the West "Third peace" and in the bazaars are sold for kilograms. On the back in English large inscription: "Cruseider" ("Crusader").