In the footsteps of Phoenimor Cooper

In childhood, reading the novels of Phoenimor Cooper and Main Reed, I, like many boys, dreamed of touching the life of American Indians. Dream came true decades later: I was in the US state of Arizona and did not miss the opportunity to visit the Vupiki National Park, in the territory of which the buildings of an ancient settlement of the Indians of the disappeared Tribery of Anashazi are preserved.

Indians settled in these edges about the fifth millennium BC. They have adapted for housing caves in the mountains and canyons. On the walls of the sacred for Indians Canyon, D’Say, drawings related to about 2500 are preserved to our era. On the territory of the current states of Arizona and New Mexico, there were three large tribes – Anashai, Hocolam and Mogollyl. They were engaged in hunting, agriculture, built big houses – in four or five floors. And then something mysterious happened: at the beginning of the XIV century, all three tribes would seem to dissolve in time and space, leaving emptying the buildings erected by them on the century. Scientists still can not come to a common opinion regarding the reasons for their sudden disappearance.

Wu Paytika Park is located aside from the running tourist routes, and it is not so easy to get to it – you need to overcome a piece of desert. Then the mountains began, and the gaze opened continuously, the primordial landscape, such a distant from the current fussy life.

Wu Payti – a historical monument, and externally looks almost like a modern residential complex, erected on the races of rocks. Three-storey house where about a hundred rooms, a round area for meetings with sedentary and standing places, acquired by a stone fence, and isna for playing the ball. Scientists believe that sometime in this "Complex" About 100 residents lived, and the total number of residents of local Indian settlements reached 1000 people. I want to pay tribute to the ancient masonry – they built. Despite its respectable age, Indian Rooms "Zhilkompleks" Until recently, they served as a refuge and shepherds. When in 1924, these lands were announced by the National Park, guarding their Rangers for the absence of other housing settled in several Wu Payti rooms. Housing, on the memoirs of their inhabitants, was quite comfortable, and the government even charged the rent from them – 10 dollars a month.

It is not known where the creators of these houses came from and in what time stream. Who consider themselves their descendants the Indians Navajo, Hopi and Zuni from generation to generation transmit the legend about where and why and why "ancient people", how they are respectfully called anashai, but for Palenitsy it still remains a mystery. We, the uninitiated, woochki seem to be a dead and empty city. For the Indians, Hopi is a living place, he inhabited the souls of ancestors. According to the ideas of the Indians, in this world there are people of earth and people saints. Earthly people are simple mortals, and the holy people – perfume, whom we are not given. They should not be disturbed, but must be respected, and then they will help to help a simple mortal in his earthly life. And although the Wuchaki is beyond the reservation of the Hopi tribe, representatives of the Clans of bears, lizards, the rats of snakes, sand, water and snow are constantly coming here in order to touch the sources with respect and hear the voices of the ancestors inaccessible to our ear.

A few buildings have been preserved in the VUPACKA, which did not touch the archaeologist’s hand. How to explain the Keepers of the Museum – Park Rangers, archaeological surveys here were discontinued due to a decisive protest from the Indian tribes. According to the Indians, archaeological excavations are the manifestation of pure curiosity, alien to their culture and not demanding to understand their past.

Indian – one of the most significant words in North America’s history. Long before the arrival of Europeans there was a unique civilization, actually destroyed by the aliens from another continent. The descendants of the indigenous North American, which are now only 0.6% of the US population, managed, however, to preserve their traditions, faith and lifestyle. Let even life price in reservations.

Big reservation of the Navajo tribe, the number of which is a little more than 200 thousand people, quite comparable in its size with an average American state: it takes the entire Northwestern part of Arizona, part of the states of Utah, Colorado and New Mexico. Indians of this tribe call their land Country Navajo, emphasizing its administrative independence. Country Navajo, as well as other Indian reservations, is a state in a state that has its own government, the capital is a city of Window Rock, its laws, rules, traditions and even time: unlike Arizona on the territory of reservation for summer time. However, no border cordons at the entrance to the country of Navajo. The fact that you left the limits of the United States and entered into a different world, only a non-accidental roadside indicator testifies.

Immediately rushes into the eyes, how to put it mildly, the settlements of Navajo look modestly. There are nothing in American bright, advertising-shining, designed to attract tourists. Here they live quite poorly – that, at first glance, surprisingly, because nature generously gave these edges of oil, gas, coal, uranium. But Navao believes that the Earth and everything she keeps, deserves the most respectful relationship. Therefore, they are rarely allowed to carry out geological and other research on their lands, to develop fields of natural minerals.

There is no gambling business here – no casino, which fundamentally distinguishes local edges from the Eastern Coast or California Reservations. The most severe dry law reigns – not only the trade of hot drinks, but also their imports. Course and tourists at best will be offered non-alcoholic beer or wine. Naturally, the absence "Firewater" attracting tourists and lovers to have fun does not contribute.

Aboriginal, whether it is a police officer, a waitress in a restaurant, hotel staff or a fuel milling personnel, distinguishes not displayed at once, but also not concealed feeling of self-esteem and even some superiority. Arriving gently but unequivocally make it feel that he is just a guest in this world who lives in his laws and customs. Women preferred traditional clothing, which consists of a long and wide skirt, wide blouses, vest, moccasin and countless silver jewelry. Many men, especially young, wear long hair. Navajo retain their own language, so complicated that the US military used it as an encryption code for the transfer of secret reports during World War II.

In the footsteps of Phoenimor Cooper

Coming to Navajo country, as in other reservations, should know about the whole recruitment of the prohibitions that must be observed. First, it concerns photographing. Navajo categorically prohibit to shoot people, their property and animals. Photos of nature monuments can be done, but only for personal, not for commercial use. If you bring to become a witness to some kind of ceremony – for example, dance, – in no case can not interfere with the participants, as well as applaud. Such dances, as a rule, are not at all shows, but a religious ceremony.

Separate reservations are fully closed for strangers, because they are sacred places. The ritual life of the Indians is very difficult, and the invasion of people in shorts in shorts, with cameras and filmmers is clearly inappropriate and, of course, can cause unwanted consequences.

If you move from the main highway and found themselves in the village of Navajo, consisting not from modern houses, and so-called khoganov – round global huts, do not try to go to them without invitation. It’s not a tourist attraction. Spiritual, historical and geographical center Navajo – not a capital city, and located on the border with New Mexico Canyon D’Say. In scale, he, of course, is much more modest than his famous neighbor – Grand Canyon, but it makes an unforgettable impression by his beauty. At the bottom of it runs turquoise color of the river, through the haze is viewed broken, as in the ruler, gardens and buildings of the village. Here, among the four sacred mountains, like hundreds of years ago, keeping the whole way of their ancestors, live in their laws Navajo Indians, or Dina, how they call themselves. This also applies to the relationship to the family, and to the tribe, and how to cultivate land or collect healing herbs.

However, it would be stopped in the country of Navajo, there would be a mistake. Indians believe that for the health of the tribe, it is necessary not only to maintain traditions, but also to master the new. Somewhat surprisingly looked among the reservation perfectly equipped stadium, but then I learned that the sports Indians love very much. In the local newspaper, the School Baseball School Baseball Compact Report was on the first strip: "Warriors" Navajo defeated "Medvedes" Hop.

The life of the current Indians may seem so ordinary and boring, which remains only to be surprised how this youth does not leave the native land for the sake of modern American civilization.

However, explain it just. Here is a completely different scale of values. The main thing in the life of the Indian – the family and the tribe, be out of this circle – the worst thing that can happen to him.

In the footsteps of Phoenimor Cooper

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