In the hope of returning

Italy – For people of Optical. It is possible, of course, on the Italian coast to relax, the perch of the churred body alternately in the Tyrrhenian Sea, then into the Adriatic. You can go to Sicily, Capri, but for now – not the season. Or tool in thermal sources of the huge Island Ischia – no worse than in Switzerland or Austria. But this is only after you shoot in the Colosseum Gallery, athlete in the queue in Ufitzi, ride in the gondola past the famous Venetian Palazzo, osset Milan from the roof of the Milan Cathedral. And all – several times, and it is unlikely to get tired.

And you need to start with Rome. And because the capital, and because the ancient (founded in 753 to our era) and eternal at the same time. In this immortal capital, the two-thousandth ruins get along with modern glass and concrete, and strange this symbiosis is not annoying. You go calm down the street – beautiful, of course, but, in general, ordinary. Suddenly – on you, Colosseum. Near – Forum Trajan, Julia Caesar, August or Neury. Immediately – modern tower.

But you pay your eye to the story and raise the Amphitheater Flaviev (he is the Colosseum). Or run along the lower gallery – in that part of it, where they let. At the site of the sideways of the amphitheater, under the scene, visible "hold" – basements, what remains of animal cells, a whole city, with endless transitions, our own streets and corridors. In ruins, fasten the Sleepy Skinny Street Cats. And on the lawn next to the next head is resting – from the excavations.

To the left of the entrance to San Pietro (St. Peter’s Cathedral, the largest Christian Cathedral in the world, stunning sizes, unprecedented by beauty and the fact that still stands) is the central entrance to the Vatican. The gate is usually, with rare exceptions, closed, but in front of them carry the Swiss guardsmen who guard the papal residence from the XVI century. Then Michelangelo came up with the exquisite striped yellow-purple apparel for these high handsome men with alabards. Total Guardsmen – 40, all as a selection, passing foreign two, being unable to tear the eye, try to play with them, but unsuccessfully: the Vatican guard silently.

But on the square in front of the cathedral – not silent for a minute of hum. Delight of idle tourists shocked seen, merges with an active Italian speech, everything is loud and festively. Right from colonnade – Papal Palace. If you are lucky to be on Square on Saturday, you will hear the performance of His Holiness, which broadcasts from the palace window. People on the area of ​​the Embossing Square, the benefit of Pope speaks many languages, including in Russian. Everyone, having heard a familiar language, is accepted to applaud and wave the flag – here it is, the joy of recognition. Funny, but truth: on the same area on the side – a gold shop, in which they also speak Russian.

In Italy, and in Rome in particular, many areas – more than anywhere else. The intersection of three-four streets, that is, just an intersection, if he is in Italy – this is the area. So as not wrong, put a monument or Egyptian obelisk in the center of the crossroads – like that 30-meter stella, which stands on Piazza Del Popolo, or smaller. The height is proportional to the size of the area.

At the main Roman street Via Corso, you will reach Venice Square – one of the most lively in the city. From here in the majestic stairs you can climb the Palace of Venice, built by Pavel the second as much as in 1471. Paul was so generous that he built a palace of this size and beauty, which did not know the Christian world before.

Stairs, by the way, is another faithful Roman sign. The city stands on the hills, multistage – everywhere. Many streets descend steps on which it is convenient to sit and talk. But the most favorite place for parties – a staircase in Spain Square. Here lovers lead their intimate conversations, looking at the famous Fountain of Barcachcha – the one with fish, – hugging, kissing. Even in the spring, when all the steps are stuck in pots with azalea, young Italian and Italians find among the colors of the place and for themselves.

As for the fountains – this is also typical Roman. If there is no obelisk or monument, there will be a fountain – albeit a tiny to get drunk. The most famous from Roman fountains is the Trevi Fountain, the Late-Baroque Creation of Nikolo Salvi (to imagine – it was in him a heroine swam "Sweet life" Fellini). The square seems to be small – and the fountain is huge. Some small alleys come to him. When approaching the square, you will hear strong noise, and in a couple of minutes you will see a natural waterfall, decorated with mythological characters.

In the Trevi Fountain, coins move – it is in a fountain, and not in Tiber. One money, regardless of dignity, not enough: five to six minimum. Such is the tradition. To come back here and all wishes are fulfilled. The bottom is overflowing with a copper-silver radiance, but there is nothing to try to glorify this wealth – visiblely invisible people at any time of the day.

And on the Navona Square, built on the site of the ancient Domitsian Stadium, – at once three fountains, all great. However, among them there is one very – most – four rivers fountain. Here on the square there is a church of St. Anise and Cafe-ice cream – do not think that this is a private cafe. This is the best ice cream cafe, which only exists in the world: Italians are the legislators of the ice cream. And today in Europe, ice cream cafes must be Italian so that they really treat delicious ice cream. If you decide to taste ice cream "Tartioff" (True culinary masterpiece!), not to find a better place.

By the word about cooking: drinking coffee – separate, truly Italian, pleasure. Viennese coffee – no more than a pathetic plagiarism from an ancient Roman custom. Italy taught Europe to drink good coffee. Cups – thimbles, the smallest Vienna Coffee Cup – three times more big Roman. But two throats will play their role. Only in Italy is given a real cape – with whipped milk, and not with cream. It is worth ordering a strange dessert in his mouth "Tiramisu".

And most importantly – do not hurry. Italians eat – and drink – a lot, with pleasure and long. 3-4 meals for lunch – normal. By two hours of the day in pizzerias, it is impossible to find places, and up to four things are busy: lunch. Consider the same dining paired break – in the official offices and stores.

In addition to the squares, the ancient ruins, cathedrals and the basil built on the foundations of the Roman bath (this usually), monuments and stairs, parks, in Rome, of course, there are museums, and God forbid. But – whatever nonsense it is for you, sin to enter them, if you are in the city of Just two to three days. This time must be devoted to the street. Take care in advance about comfortable shoes (most important!) – and on the road. Rome, even his old part, is a huge, all – on a decent distance from each other, and all this distance must be walking, otherwise there is no point here. In the evening, in the dark, satisfying and giving a short rest to the tired legs, go through the center again. Take a look at the backlit contours of the Colosseum, the sparkling Fountain of Trevi and the everlasting area of ​​Spain – to remember.

South of Rome lies Naples, the third largest (after Rome and Milan) the city in Italy, rich and disabled at the same time. In Naples, based on 27-28 centuries ago, much excellent preserved – castles Castel del Oboo, XII century, and Castel Nuovo, 150 years younger, Baptistery of San Giovanni V century, Palazzo Real (Royal Palace) and Monastery Di San Martino. The port city on the hills with a view of the still spraying Vesuvius. On a huge covered gallery of expensive boutiques, a secular public walks, and motorists are chasing the streets, who do not recognize the rules: it is known that there are no single bat vehicles in Naples, even new.

Just a few kilometers from Naples lie destroyed by Vesuviy Pompeii. For two hundred years of excavations managed to open what remained from urban walls, forums, temples, markets, houses. Someone even preserved mosaic and frescoes.

But leave the south and soon go to the north – in the direction of Perugia, Siena and, finally, Florence. If Rome shakes the omnipresent neighborhood of two epochs, then Florence amazes the only era – Renaissance. Florence, as, however, and all Italy fully justifies the expectations of the traveler. Book Impressions are embodied.

In front of the cathedral in which Michelangelo is buried – the area on which Savonarol burned. Cathedral stand in a semicircle house built on the foundation of the next bath. Nearby – Baptistery with "Gates of paradise", Bell Tower of Jotto, Palazzo Vecchio, a kilometer turn in Ufitzi. And do not try to get out without a queue, the guard remembers standing, and does not let anyone.

Flow river Arno with "Golden Bridge", built-up houses with jewelry shops. Rash tourists flock to the bridge to instantly spend the entire cash margin, but many do not have time: rob. On the embankment surprises high, almost human growth, parapet, tightly folded from huge stones. Shore – a few meters from the fence, and the river – laughter one. It turns out that Arno comes out of the banks, floods happen. In history, there are cases when the water rose above the bulkstrade level, the surrounding streets poured and penetrated several meters to the cathedral, in which the flood marks are preserved and the water-destroyed painting.

A thousand years ago and later, the skimpses of the deaths took place here (supporters of the emperor) with Gutelas (adherents of the Pope). And in the XIII century, the noble Gwelf Dante Aligiery followed the shadow for the young Beatrice Portinaries.

In the hope of returning

Now countless tourists walk each other on a small patch, although around, including the golden bridge, there are monuments, and castles. If you arrive Arno on the bridge, you will pass several meters and you will get left, you will fall into Bobollly gardens – a magnificent sample of the Garden of Park Art of the Renaissance. What a lot later will grow Viennese, Versailles and Peterhof Gardens. They are not pompous – but with a cascade of fountains, a palace, figurine trimmed bushes, a pond with goldfish, arbors, pavilions. Everything is more modest and elegant than the late copies – like any original.

In the very north of the countries, the Italians built Milan – the most business and rich city. Parade streets, luxury shops for Och-Chen Rich People. The main boutiques are located in the covered glass gallery, on the one hand resting in the building of the La Rock. Do not be surprised in the unpleasant appearance of the theater, – under the ugly shell this time the pearl is accurately hidden.

If you go on the gallery in the other direction, get to the square, where the giant Milan Cathedral rises, one of the most famous cathedrals in Europe. Inside in it, I do not argue, beautiful – but the interior decoration is not the only dignity of the cathedral. It is necessary to go down to the dungeon where the first Christian basilica starts the beginning for Friend. Then climb the roof (on foot or on the elevator – if you look, find, find), distressed by lovely couples and tourists choosing, wherever to take pictures. You probably remember this roof – Visconti, in "Rocco and his brothers". Remember the latest meeting Annie Girardo with Alain Delon? So, it was on the roof of the cathedral. And I thought it was on the bridge stood.

Venice from Milan – very close. Can be reached by train, you can fly. But more correctly sail on the boat, from the sea. You will be put on the coast in the boat, big or small and you will swim. Waiting for a miracle called "Venice" It is always so great that you do not know how much you sail until the custom building will appear on the island. Further, the boat goes along Venice and comes to the embankment with countless villages.

Old Venice is very small. The streets are so narrow that two will not always disperse. Get lost there – easily. Take into the canal – too. People, especially since April and on the days of Karnavalov – as we have in the subway. People on San Marco Square, the people in the Palace of the Doings, the people at the bridge of the sigh, connecting the palace and prison, from which Casanova ran, people look at the burned theater of La Fenica (Phoenix). During floods, San Marco floods, and people move along the paved.

Facade of the Cathedral of St. Mark, the patronage of Venice, is great and eclectic. Egyptian winged horses coexist with built-in columns of a completely different opera. These are all souvenirs: Something brought from Egypt, something from Byzantium. The Venetians were militant to indecent, continuously something conquered, everyone was dragged to themselves and allowed. On the other hand, they always traded, and successfully, and, as any quickly rejected merchants, were not indifferent to excesses. Despite the fact that the last military victories have not been remembered for many centuries, but there is no trace, Venetian palaces, the Venetian palaces are still luxurious, and carnivals – are great, although they give something old, long dead. But just this divine mixture of the former greatness with the subsequent decline – and there is Venice herself.

In Venice there is no greens or busta. But there are gondolas – a long time turned from the means of movement to the main tourist bait. Urban transport type – boats, with numbers and routes. Local residents instead of cars – boats and boats, motor and simple. Channels are scored by boats like our streets – cars.

Do not stand out of the total mass and run on the gondola, let it be somehow: half an hour – at least $ 50. There are gondolas with palanquins and plush chairs, there are modest, smaller. If you hear Aria or Serenad, know: this is not a gondolier (the gondollars never sing), and a specially invited singer standing on the stern. Usually such singers are ordered by the Japanese or Americans. Russians sing themselves. Swim – and from around the corner "Moscow Nights". Finding into Gondola, people are stupid to disgrace – from happiness, probably.

But happiness is ghostly and instant, like a walk in the gondola. You never know Venice to the end. No matter how much you tried – unsuccessfully – to get into the house of the old Venice – they are Palazzo, – the doors will be closed. You will never know what is happening inside, like and who lives there (there can not be everything like us). Venetians behave removed, with a noticeable sense of excellence over the rest of the Italians – and above the whole world. You will notice this by distinguishing in the crowd of tourists of rare Venetian.

Memories of Venice – always love without reciprocity. As a dream about a woman who will never conquer. Therefore, I want to return there – in the hope of reciprocity. Maybe you should come when it’s cold? People are a little, beautiful – one, and no one will hurt.

In the hope of returning

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