In the mountains of Chechnya. Hoy somewhere there!
2020, in the Chechen Republic, was declared the Year of Tourism. Yes, yes, you did not hear – just the year of tourism. Of course, among the first, we decided to check whether the Chechen Republic is ready for the influx of guests? And also, find out where exactly, certainly, you need to visit the usual tourist and what should be seen in this Caucasian Republic.
After being kened, the road stretches into the clouds and then … the road to the mountains is interesting and charming. Long, thin snakes it goes, climbing everything above. Hugging and covering counter mountains.
Sometimes just scary to look down. But look to tear it off. You look around and fall into the trance on the verge of aesthetic ecstasy. You understand – here it is, the most real Caucasus. No fairy tales, beautiful rasks and other gloves. Inspired by Lermontov. Here it is – our (and your) legs. Proud, he conquers those who fall in love with him at first sight!
Passing and counter cars are less and less. At some point, the next bend of the mining serpentine turns us into the territory of Dagestan (Botlich district), but after a few minutes we are again in Chechnya. The rapid rise leads us to the largest high-altitude lake of the Northern Caucasus – Lake Kesten-am.
Alpine Lake Kesten-am – the largest area of the Lake of the Chechen Republic and the entire Greater Caucasus. It is a beautiful place on the southern slope of Andiy Range, at an altitude of 1869 meters above sea level. This lake was formed for a very long time, as a result of an earthquake and a natural dam of two small rivers – Harsum and Kahah. The collapse of the valley occurred from the southern slope of the Kaskeml Ridge, below the merger of these rivers.
Not so long ago, in 2015, the tourist and recreational resort "Kezen" opened on the shore of the lake. Hotel, cottages, restaurant, sauna and sports complex area of 1200 m². In addition, the sports ground, a boat station and a pier – because when there was a weed rowing.
Walk through the territory brings new impressions. A pretty girl with pleasure poses to us – rumors about the closedness of the weak floor of Chechnya turned out to be extended ..
Literally in the first steps, we celebrate the company of young people. They arrived at the picnic. The freshest meat has exuded its juice on the peasants with the heat of coals, and we were already invited to join and taste the real Caucasian kebab. Yes, the real kebab can only be enjoyed in his homeland – the Caucasus.
Dinner at the local restaurant. Food tasty, fresh and not very road. But … A small unpleasant surprise was waiting ahead.
On your misfortune, we decided to book a tea kettle and a cup of coffee in the room.
– Rise to the number paid, – told us in the restaurant, it will be a bit more expensive.
– OK! – We agreed, without even suspecting what it means "a little".
After half an hour, we learned, the size "little on Kezenoyski". Tea and coffee – 250 steering wheel. Rift to the room – 1000 rubles. Evona! The lesson for the future – in the Caucasus it is worth specifying the true dimensions of "little", t.To. It may turn out that the size of this "little" is slightly higher than the expectations ..
The traditional Chechen village has been built on site. In these homes you can live and feel all the charms of Chechen life. And this is a very good idea. It is here, on myself most, you can experience all the "charms" and the infancy of the fate of a simple Chechen.
Just a half kilometers from Lake Kesten-AM is an old Chechen Aul Hoy.
The names of the village of Hoy (Ho on Chechen), translated from the Chechen language means – "Guardians", "Watch" or "Settlement of the Guardians".
The ancient settlement of Hoy, currently, includes medieval necropolis "City of dead" and ancient combat and residential towers that are now actively recovering.
Once, in the Middle Ages, a whole system of fortifications and tower complexes, uniting villages of Kezen, Macaza, Harkara, Hoi, in a single defensive line, from where the roads were controlled in a chalk, Ichkeria and Dagestan.
Today this place is uninhabited. But once the life was boiling here – and you can wander around a narrow winding street streets imaging the daily life and hassle of the inhabitants of this aula. You just imagine – for water it is necessary to descend on the very bottom of the deep gorge, and then slowly climb upwards, bending under the excessive severity of such a necessary, life, rosy. Most of all amazing the imagination almost inaccessible stone dwellings of this "city of the dead", stripped to the most sheer rocks and circular.
Once upon a time, the stone or wooden ladders were led to the burders of the housing, which over the years crumbled and appealed to the dust and Tlen – but this is not less to accessibility, especially in their eyes, especially – in our eyes – the eyes of a modern inhabitant of plains of civilization.
In these houses, Chechens lived in centuries. They were born and dying, acquired families, were friends and kneaded, the children raised, took guests and gave fire to enemies.
The village of Hooy truly amazes with stone architectural structures created by ancient masters. At the same time, this alone lost in the mountains is surrounded by the incredible beauty of mountain landscapes, and having been in this place forever remaining impressed by the untouched civilization of mountain beauty and harmoniously arranged in her the former village of militant people.
Hoy’s village was abandoned not only because of the war. His tragic fate is primarily associated with the deportation of 1944. Now there are built new houses and a mosque, who wish can return to their native places. As for the ruins, I do not have an unequivocal opinion, whether it was necessary to restore them or not. From a tourist point of view, it seems like yes, but I always mile authentic ruins.
Amazing world – a mountain Chechnya, the edge of harsh and rectilinear people, proud and beautiful soul!
These places are in the soul forever. Having been here once, you want to go back and again and again. And mountain Chechnya, for your love will be reputable to you.
Leaving, we promised themselves will certainly come back here again.
Ahead of us was waiting for the lead, ears-kala, ITUM-Cali, Chihali and Sharp. Everything interesting was still ahead ..