In the shade of Epomeo
When I am happy, I wake up early. And, no matter how much to sleep before, the head turns out to be clean and clear.
I loved on Isle, I loved in the morning, go to the terrace in front of the number and, having gotten in a chair with a book, watching how lights, listen to the singing of a cycade, distant barking dogs, screams of awakening roosters yes bleeding early woken sheep (or sheep already from Homer?), yes, follow the movement of sailboats on the horizon.
Mount Epomeo, the main point of Cryony, becomes all the relief, until finally, does not perform at the scene of the day in all its old beauty. After all, Epomeo is an extinct volcano, once frightening people with unbridled tricks and earthquakes, and now licking his eyes with his picturesque.
When I started to be able to describe how beautiful and active life on some nice island, I do not really believe such stories. On the island, as a rule, absolutely nothing to do. And it is right. It takes off the whole weakness of a person in the face of nature. Therefore, the island must be safe and homely comfort – otherwise he?
On Pavel Pavlovich Muratov, a famous connoisseur of Italy, the subtle outlines of schie observed by Naples, trembled "Ancient as light, memories of the earthly paradise". Life in real appearance only strengthens in these paradise sensations related to the immobility of the body and inner peace.
Calm, only calm, or the Romans called him Aenaria
Ischia – the island is small, although in the story quite famous. The Greeks appeared here in the VIII century BC, but I also liked the ancient Romans, but as the resort they are not very perceived, although they called him Aenaria (let Enaaria read, but then then the air is heard, though?).
In the center of the island – Mount Epomeo, small (just 787 meters), but requiring respect. The former volcano of many forced to keep at a respectful distance. Sometime, he jumped out of the sea, like the features of Tabakcoque, or, on the contrary, immersed most of his part under the water caught in some cataclysm. In antiquity, however, someone was confident that under the island sits the giant Tfefe, who hacted something Jupiter and now forced to pour his rage emissions of fire and water.
But today the case is attracting. Fortunately, not yet millions, because it is considered a prestigious area of the Mediterranean. Although, again, what can be done on the island, except to indulge in nonsense and laziness? Beach, Food, Lazie Random Log Page. But if you look at, then you will understand where the secrets and secrets.
I looked at the island from the height of the Wicco Hill, where San Montano was located. Under the scoring Mediterranean sun, you dream about such a corner, full shady canopies, pools and halls with thermal procedures. Absolute lazy might exist here not even going down, to the sea and people. The newspapers ordered in the evening is already a concierge. In front of the restaurant there is a huge wardrobe, where the tenants leave each other read books (German and English dominated), and the restaurant itself is from the discharge of the most wonderful in Italy. Even the simplest risotto with Saffron, Spaghetti Alla Carbonara Vegetale or Omelet with Mozzarella look like on the table at Jupiter. What to say about different phases there with champignons, calf fricases with zucchini or beef rolls in neapolitan! Myatoes come off here in the full program, I fed to fish – from a simple, but gentle dorada to the fish-sword and other beauties to which local white is so good. There are in the menu and kitchen of the Neapolitan Bay, like mushrooms in Iskianski.
Many immediately order a full board (for lobster or goose liver will have to pay extra), although in the afternoon you can still eat somewhere below, in Lakko-Ameno. The hotel buses will take you to the first call up and down, so that the men’s very good menu should not be pretty serious and for a long time, otherwise you will not find the strength to go finally. Time 3 November, the hotel closes together with the season as a bayonet. And some waiters will go to the winter to work in Italian restaurants in New York and Washington (I even took the address of Nicolas).
Already on the second day, Signor Calizise, Metrotel Restaurant San Marco, began to pronounce our Russian names as relatives. He has such a radiant smile of a young grandfather, that soon I stopped surprising, why it is visitors by entering the restaurant, it does not turn away from it. And when on the island I fell on the eyes of huge "Gardens Caliza", suspicions about the special role of Signora in this life only increased. But Calisis beat them as insolvent: his surname is as well as the Kuznetsov or Ivanov.
By the way, about the Russians: One of the first compatriots was the artist Sylvester Shchedrin, who lived between Rome and Naples a pensioner from the Academy of Arts. In one of the letters of 1819 he told: "We spent two days on the Sea is very fun and during this time almost did not go from Oslov, climbing the top of the mountain S-O Nikolo, where at the very top of the monks are excised in Mount Mount for 24 people, but only two live here, and They are two chapels".
Religiousness is developed today – it is not by chance that in the present May, even Pope, and the churches and paintings of the XIV, and the XI century, visited the. But attracted generous and other: "It is wonderful that the people are very good and cheerful in the Sea island, it is mixed and laughs incessantly". Remembering endless conversations with waiters, I see how little has changed here since the generous.
Except that the donkes do not go – they were replaced by buses. Almost one road, walking along the coast or running into the mountains, so that the car is not required, it is possible for an hour without hurrying to drive around the whole island with social and tourist transport, even clockwise, at least against.
Ischia is considered to be bathdings – largely due to coves, artificial and natural, fencing from waves and give the process of bathing some intimate shade. From all the beaches I preferred Nembo where. Ah, I still never said about the main thing! Ischia – the kingdom of thermal parks! Their (big and good) minimum from half a dozen, on the waters here are specially batyushes came, finding them "stronger Lipetsk". I also loved the Negombo, who spread out just in front of the hotel (the entrance to the park is not cheap, but the hotel gives the guests to pass).
In this bay there is something strange. Water here, for example, warmer for a couple of degrees than on other beaches, and surprisingly clean. Floating, you can watch how you get over your own shadow. And over the brave swimmer, they hang cliffs with trees, and on the eaves still roam some shadows walking – there are just a Negombo gardens. The bottom, however, close and constantly approaches you with different stones and cliffs, rather sharp, – I decided to rest on one pebble and then pasted by pockets at the on-duty on the beach. But, on the other hand, just swim, so swim, and not to lie on the stones.
Relax after experienced solved on water procedures.
I really didn’t think it could be so pretty – bathing in baths, where different temperatures! But the water and on top pour as jubilant (on the island more than hundreds of natural waterfalls, they simulate them in the gardens), and simply splash in the baths – hot, cold, then hot again, and you go to her myself, only surprising your own courage. All this is useful for health – and contrast, and the naturalness of heating. Thermal sources are famous no less Kamchatka, and how important volcanic water is important, and even mineralized, will tell any doctor, will explain in any spa.
In general, the perfect place where you can relax from the works of your righteous or just to think about how righteous these are the worlds.
Walking around the island
If the pools with a heated volcano water are interesting as such or just want to splash overlooking different landscapes, you can try different thermal parks – the most famous of them "Garde Poseidona". Among the wild beaches, I seemed the most nice (after Nembo) the one that is located in San Angelo (this is such a rock, where, in my opinion, it’s a simple mortal, but it leads to it, so everything is just just bathe).
Good and botanical gardens with La Mortella fountains – they founded more than half a century ago English composer William Walton, whose foundation in these wonders and is located. Among the semi-wild of species of exotic plants there are truly unique things, such as the open couple of centuries ago an ancient tree ginkgo biloba – it existed on Earth already 200 million years ago. Shock from his discovery was at one time so great that even Goethe devoted to the tree a poem.
What you probably will tell anyone who visited the island is about the Aragon castle on the rock connected to "big" Claims artificial bridge. The first fortress here founded in the IV century BC, one Greek Syracusenets – yes in it died during an earthquake. After too, a lot of things on the rock were built, until finally Alfons I did not build the current castle. Then they owned one religious order, then, during the times of Napoleonic wars, he was defeated by the British from the French and turned into a political prison. In 1913, the fortress bought current owners, the family of the Matters. Now the castle (the museum in it was opened only in 1958) manage two brothers. One seems a two-star hotel, for its old atmosphere so appreciated primarily by intellectuals. There are also underground monastery cemetery, and the remnants of the monastery with the frescoes of the XIV-XVI centuries, including the School of Jotto (they are restored right in front of the tourists, as well as the entire castle – this will continue two years). The second brother is responsible for museums, among which the camera torture. Below in front of the elevator in the rock the concierge sits, after sunset, it letters only the hotel guests.
The main museum treasure of Cryony was directly opposite to my hotel – the famous Archaeological Museum of Pithaecusa is located in Lakco-Ameno (Romans also called the island in antiquity, followed by the Greeks who spoke "PitHekoussai"). Villa Arbosto, where the museum opened, was built in the XVIII century next to the excavations of the ancient settlement (in general, from the nine parking of an ancient person on Szero five are located in Lakco-Ameno). It is not surprising that the first exhibits here are dated Neolithic, 3500 BC. Many items left from Greeks (VIII-III centuries. to N. NS.), including fixtures for barbecue and children’s toys. In other shop windows, you can find the fantastic beauty of the idols, and the Syrian swastika from the arrival merchant, and much more interesting. Do not miss the last, the last ninth hall – it is behind the book kiosk, and it shows small exhibitions. On my share got ex voto. Usually so called the part of the human body made in silver (believing in this way thanks the creator for his healing), the Italian churches are full of them. But on the villa, the waterpool showed rare options – drawings of the XVIII-XIX centuries, captured marine catastrophes. They were ordered to unprofessional artists miraculously saved while traveling.
Since the signatures are duplicated here in English, tourists usually do not happen. In addition, on the museum site now, the page and in Russian. Director of the Museum of Giovanni Kastanya, with whom we talked, turned out to be a personally versatile. When Joseph Brodsky came to the island, he translated his speeches at the evenings. And now I was published by the memoirs of the French travelers of the XIX century, and in French. So small in size is the island unexpectedly turned out to be at all provincial and not lost in time.
Slarers for fidgets
Living on Szero, you can see all the beauties of the Naples Bay, right up to Amalfi and Sorrento. Excursions and Capri are sent from the island (because not only bitter lived, but also the mass of antique ruins has been preserved, there are churches among olive groves and vineyards, and the azure grotto manites as a magnet), and in Pompeii, go there and regular boats, so It is worth only to decide on our own character: that closer – the Gomon group or loneliness and freedom?
The main magnet outside the island is the former royal capital Naples. There you can go on a helicopter or on a boat. By choosing a seaside element, do not mistaken with the schedule – some "Rocket" come to the neighboring island of Visda, and the journey instead of 40-50 minutes stretches for an hour and a half. Yes, and in Naples, you can arrive in the central port, and you can both in Mergellina (slightly away from the center, but near the subway).
If you only decide to get out in Naples, you can also catch in the Archaeological Museum (where a part exported from Rome Fernese collection is famous for the Renaissance, as well as the Treasures of Pompeii and Herkulanum, another inspoty of the Vesuvia city), and in the Capodimont Museum – One of the best in Europe, located in the same place in the campaign park. Frevious of the exhibitions will indicate me that the capodymont cans regularly appear in the expositions around the world – and that is right, but not all (other pictures of Luke Jordano because of the sizes it is impossible to take out of the museum), and even how the beauty of the palace itself is, don’t export it.
If there is little time, you can limit the Palazzo Real – the former royal palace stands near the central port. Glory walks on the centuries, and the first book about the palace dated 1604. Good interiors of the frontal hall and private chambers, and the selection of cloths is also remembered – from the same Luke Jordano to small Dutch (I even found a Cyprosen). It is impossible to pass by the old theater – the inspection of the palace begins with it (it is interesting that the building is one of the best operas of the world, San Carlo, closely attached to the Palazzo Real). And what kind of furniture, what door! Dressers and secretaries, tables and clocks, and even the bird cage on the elongated stand, presented by the local Ferdinand II Emperor Nikolay I, – the cage did in the 1840s Russian masters. In general, and two hours are small for 29 halls and chapels, full of amazing things.
In the breaks between the palaces, it is time to walk through the old quarters, to see the baroque churches, walk through a narrow streets. "Every sign of the city in the European meaning of this word completely disappears here. Streets turn into the passages between the high walls of the houses, are replaced by stairs, deadlocks, courtyards, form a confusion, in which only those inhabiting them from generation into generation of aborigines may. It goes without saying that there is no boundary between housing and the street", – wrote the same Muratov. You should not be afraid of Naples: he is not more dangerous of any other tourist city, and with the simplest precautionary measures you will feel quite at home.
Only do not plan a lot of things for one day: in hot weather I still want silence and peace. That is, back, on the skeleton, where the pianist plays something from the bar "Beatles" Ile sings "Dement Maucho" and "Return to Sorrento".
Last ferries on the island are sent already in the dark. Under the right board, non-politinist hills covered with garlands and points of lights, so I want to scam: "Return to Naples" (In the sense that I did not reach Sorrento). But everything finally becomes clear.
To get to the Moscow aircraft, get up to fall out and then go along the sleeping highway to the port to go with the first ferry in Naples and further in Rome.
Passing Uda, we went to the deck. Over the horizon, Vesuvius hung right at the rate. The sun boosted from somewhere because of his back, and in the crimson sky, the majestic volcano Paril, like a huge bird, like a flying island, as a mysterious universe, which enlightened the enthusiasm of many generations of travelers and painters.
Hugging a princess, I thought: how strange that everything with such a feeling is written about the Neapolitan nature, about the types and landscapes, but no one noticed the most important beauty here – an awakening morning, the sky at the junction of the emerald and turquoise, which return suddenly to times when in the paradise kushchi believed seriously and for a long time.
As if useful tips
You can fly on the skeleton "Aeroflot" Rome, from there two hours by car to the ferry, from there one another hour and a half (with loading-unloading machine). Or some European airline with change to Naples. From the end of October to the beginning of April, many hotels are closed (lives for Christmas). Prices for all typically island – for cutting from the world and prestige will have to pay extra. Rooms in decent hotels – from 130 to 220 euros per person plus surcharges up to 90 euros overlooking the sea. You can rent apartments for a week – from 220 euros for two and indefinitely. The helicopter to Naples – 800 euros on four.
Thermal gardens are available to everyone (day ticket costs 17-23 euros, a weekly subscription cheaper), especially good for those who have rheumatism, arthrosis, problems with breathing paths, immunity and leather; But contraindicated those who have problems with heart, blood and kidneys. Gardens are scattered throughout the island, the most famous – Poseidon Gardens, Apollo, Aphrodites and, of course, Negombo. Mud and balneology are offered in numerous spa.
Large tennis, diving and windsurfing, not to mention paraglids, here in the norm of things, and there are courses, and suggestions for those who already have experience, let it be small.
In the summer, like everywhere on the Mediterranean, it is hot, officially the average temperature is maintained in the area of 30 degrees. It is better to go a little before or a little later (this is the peak of the season, everything is very expensive, and the public more). But it is important and not linger on the trip, and in the second half of October everything is starting to close on the island.