In the Silver Shop of Japan

Ginza is, actually, not the street. The fact that Europeans imply under the streets, there are no. Cities cut off "Dori" – roads that lead to other cities. Any address consists of the name of part of the settlement – "NS", District – "Cho", Parts of the Area – "Thom", Quarter numbers and house numbers. Ginza – one of many dozen cho in Tokyo. But it is different from others because once the Japanese "prescribed" Meeting of the country of the rising sun with 3Apad. After the great fire of 1872, it was decided that it was here, two steps from the just built first in the country of the Simbasi railway station, which put on the way of modernization Japan will show itself to the world. Then the Japanese began on "Pure sheet" The former region is a silver workshop, as the word translates "Ginza", "write" your novel about the love of the hate of the East and 3Apad. "3Apad There are 3Apad, East is east, and together they do not get together", But Ginza is just the case when they agreed and, it seems forever.

"Ginza is a node, thigh, orbit intersection point". It is not known what kind of values ​​of the word Node meant my satellite – botanical, astronomical or medical, – after all, the conversation was in English. And also – in the language of the image: Arabi architect pencil Kayokatu Arai confidently ran over a napkin with a JAL airline logo. In a matter of seconds, the plan of the Japanese capital appeared in front of me: the pilots or even astronauts see it through the portholes of orbital stations. The napkin turns over and instantly in the left corner only one part of Tokyo appears under the name of Cho-ku, where Ginza is. And in the right – she herself. I had a feeling for a second that I was in "Spyware" Center where without electronics, but with any increasing you can observe any place on Earth. "Here are from those "nodes", and not from the street grid consists of Tokyo. "Knot", as a pearl sink, not only grown in itself the necessary infrastructure, but also imposes a general imprint on anyone who settles in it, hesitates part of the country’s history, has its philosophy, in general, what is called "His person". Yes what Tokyo. All Japan consists of such "persons", all this without voids and "Sands" Hasive stone village for 138 million people.

During drawing plan "Boeing" just carried us over the giant territory of Russia, where rare "Inflorescences" scattered 143 million. Below was spread solid frightening "space" In civilization, or rather – the impenetrable ocean of black with flaming fantastic torches "Islands" Surgut in the middle, where you can go for months and not to meet a single living soul.

Here, at an altitude of 10,000 meters, I met a person, that I needed. Writing people generally believe in good luck, but in order to go to Japan, where "Around the world" I was submitted to study me, the famous architect, Professor Kyoto University, was a well-known architect, who had lived in the West and worked with "Father" Modern architecture American Frank Geri – this is a miracle. Arai was returned to home from Ufa, where it is now designing a superior complex of buildings for the Bashkirian government. 10 hours of summer from Moscow to Tokyo – much even for the most exciting lecture, but we, honestly, and they barely enough to mentally measure the silver shop. Step by step.

Step I. Samurai

Ginza there is a burning of fire, spirit of change and money. "No, perhaps, we put money for first place", – Smiling arab. In 1612, the military ruler of Japan Syugun Tokugawa Ieaisa suffered a mint to the former fishing village of Jeddo, where in record deadlines rebuilt the new capital of Japan. "Gin" in Japanese "silver", And it is the same for the whole country a silver coin, which he ordered to minimize the sogun, gave the name of the district. (Originally it was called only one quarter on the site of modern Chome Ginza-2, where a memorable stele is erected now.) Tokugawa stopped the civil war, closed the country for foreigners, banned Christianity, in which, in less than a hundred previous years, Jesuit’s fathers turned almost a quarter of the Japanese, and introduced the iron class division. The very city-planning structure of Jeddo was a symbol of Sögunat – samurai seelled around the castle of the rulers in extensive estates in nature, and near the port in the labyrinth of narrow streets – merchants and artisans.

The area, clamped between the samurai and trading parts of the capital, and became the border between the two worlds. On the one hand, a mint-yard is a government institution, and to edit – the case of samurai: Any of them, by the way, could cut the commoner in place, if he would consider that he had violated the law or any moral rule. On the other – the mint "produced" money, and, like trade in general, samurai did not love. Moreover, the Ginze carried out the main "Currency operation" then Japan: issued silver coins for the corresponding amount of bronze, and the craft changed and was considered to be thoughtful. But two and a half years of the world, secured by Sigunat, weakened the power of the sword and strengthened the power of money. The silver shop is all the thicker turned by shops, harchev, theaters and gayish houses, where for a ringing coin and samurai, and the Citizen could get what they wish. Even when in 1800, the administration of the coin court was defeated and, executing the perpetrators, moved him to another place, Ginsa did not die.

Step II. Emperor

Much terrible anger of the authorities for the district was another "Flower Jewdo" – Fire is 1872. Three thousand wooden buildings with rice paper partitions – "Sadie" turned into ashes in a couple of hours. Only three people died – the Japanese are vigilant and accustomed to wait for trouble. According to one of the legends, Gyzu swept the daughter of a greenman to escape from a strict father to the beloved ..

Whatever it was, the old, initial Ginza rushed to eternity almost simultaneously with Sögunat, abolished by the monarch-"revolutionary" Maidza. The next descendant of the goddess Amateras did not want, like his ancestors in dozens of knees, carry out only decorative functions in the most ancient in the light of the Empire. In 1868, he decided to retire the last military ruler. He, losing the decisive battle of supporters of the emperor, died peacefully in his estate 45 years later. And the courtyard of the traditional residence in ancient Kyoto moved to the castle of Jeddo, and, given that an insulating person came to an end, the capital was symbolically renamed Tokyo, which means "Eastern gate". Belated "chase" Began behind the West.

While we are mentally from the Tokugava era moved to Maidzi’s era, the plane moved us from Europe to Asia – the Urals remained behind.

"In the morning, the emperor looked out the window and saw a ash region in front of him, – continued between the Kayokatu Arai. – This spectacle surprised him: in Japan a wasteland and then, and now – rarity, the construction starts literally the day after a fire or earthquake". But what should be built on the ginze? Border "Miramy" lost sense. Mayji class abolished, there were no samurai, nor merchants in the country – only the sacrifice of the emperor, whose main thing is to fulfill his will, adopt everything "Heathsti" West.

And then the mayor of Tokyo Matsuda came to mind a brilliant idea. Not far from Ginza, just built the station first in the country of the railway, taking the capital with Yokohama. What if turning the silver shop into a piece of west? Imperial Palace, Railway Station and Quarter in European Style: What is not a triune change symbol! From England hastily discharged a fashionable architect of Thomas Waters, who built up 1,200 meters of the current chores with two-story brick houses with columns and balconies, exactly, like on the famous London Ridge-Street.

Step III. Harakiri

In the only one "Open" According to the law of Tokugava, the port of Nagasaki during the seguns was a foreign quarter like the Moscow German Slobody, where they lived, respectively, alone foreigners. For the first on Japanese islands "European Street for Japanese" The state paid crazy money – two million yen. It turned out like on "present" West: sidewalks, gas lights, boulevard arched with smooth rows of trees. Only nobody wanted to live there: indigenous "Jeddo-kko" ("Jedians"-Tokyatz) avoided the transfigured ginza completely just like the Moscow boyars, like a damn, were of the St. Petersburg. In addition, although bricks were only facades, but for them "hiding" The usual wooden houses, people were afraid to be buried alive at the first underground push. Or – suffocate in a stone bag with a stuffy summer. But the debt to the emperor forced to endure. Traditional Japan heroically tried to live in "Potemkin village" Maidza. And only when one respectable old woman, without preparing a mixture of disgust and fear, made himself a harakiri, a real outcome of its few inhabitants began from Ginza. "Cavalry Ataka" Western civilization failed.

Step IV. Geisha

Empty houses quickly collapsed, and only the wandering circus with trained bears sometimes stopped in them for the night. GIZU "Leave" Even the trees: one after another Pine and Sakura gibbles, trembled endless maples. Only molding walked, and it became a sign of over. Abandoned gyzu and neighboring area simbashi mastered "Yves world". So in Japan, since ancient times was called the mysterious and attractive kingdom of geish. Many, probably, know that these Far Eastern "Ladies Polusveta" nothing to do with professional prostitutes. In the view of the Japanese, they are ideal wives, whose society for money can enjoy the client. And sex here is a tenth business. The main thing is communication, "Gaishaasobi" ("Game Geisha"). The woman who has achieved mastery in him, should know all the wisdom of a tea ceremony, be able to imitate all possible shades of moods, weathered a thin lace conversation, dance, sing, play on the string tool Sijseen and have another thousand bizarre skills.

And here is the geisha, the embodiment of Japanese traditions, saved "Japanese Europe". Over brick facades, "Coloring Thames", Paper lights of tea houses were lit, and everything was played on them, from commoners to members of the Cabinet of Ministers. Following the geisha on Gyzu, the representatives of the second of the oldest crafts – journalists came. Related editorial board here "Iomyuri Simbun", "Hosh Simbun", other famous newspapers and news agencies. A telegraph poles rose near Iwami.

And finally, big money returned here. The largest trading houses rushed rapidly to master the area, suddenly seemed promising. In 1894 at the crossroads of Chome "Ginsa-4" Founder of the company "Seiko" (this word means "success"), someone Hattori built his first store, decorated with a clock tower, which became unofficial "Emblem" modern ginza, and perhaps the whole of the empire changed to unrecognizable. Now Japan from the right side went on rapprochement with the West, through "Silver gate" Intended his material world: chairs and beds, hats and pants, corsets, shoes, forks ..

Step V. Ikebana

"But now it’s all this. None of the houses of Watersovskaya Ridge Street has not survived. Hinza XXI century you will see with your own eyes, I will not spoil freshness of impressions. Good luck!" – finished his lecture ara. Our flight ended. Having loved the panorama of Big Tokyo – a prominent professorial pattern on a napkin – we landed at the airport of Narita. First impression – incredible purity. I know Germany and Switzerland well, but I have not seen anything like that. In Japan, how I was convinced later, even the homeless people go in clean white socks. The second shock is the absence of a border between natural and man-made, as if you got inside the giant Iquiban. The mountains on the horizon are written in the horizon, and the slabs of the sidewalk under their feet are so perfect that they could arise in one of the days of creation. About the garden, inscribed in the urban interior of the airport, I do not even try to tell ..

Hour ride by bus – and begins "science fiction" Tokyo. Mural complexity Car juncakes, some streets in three levels: at the top and bottom of pedestrians, in the middle – cars. Glass, steel, concrete, stunning design, advertising and indiscrect crowds of people who are patiently waiting for green light at intersections. And also – chaos of hieroglyphs on signs and signs. Now I know how my Western friends feel in Moscow, without understanding Cyrillic. Finally, I see the first Latin letters for which we grab as a rescue circle, – Ginza.

Step VI. Kabuki

First meeting with her – Full disappointment. The same Atlantic City or Cologne. Ordinary type of type "shopping and entertainment information" Prospekt. Can not see "branded" Skyscrapers and High-Tek, but only tapery of glass verses of the sample of the 60-70s. Even advertising some kind of agreed, I drown me and "McDonalds", Where Big Mac and Cheeseburger are offered even without the corresponding hieroglyph. Where I arrived. But here, thank God, the human flow suddenly takes me to the building, as if the artist Hiroshi’s engraving. Powerful wooden beams, tiled "Winged" Roof with curls, bronze ornament: I recognize the world famous Kabuki theater for. Get inside is not a problem – you can buy a ticket not to the entire many hours, but in just one action. Moving in a lively queue to the box office window, cling in the hand of a thousandth bill (a little less than ten dollars), I remember everything I know about the Kabuki Theater.

Step back. "Low" art

Kabuki is a Japanese folk drama, created by the city’s pike of the aristocratic theater of samurai but. Here actors are not gods and noble gentlemen ("Daimoy"), and merchants and geisha. Women’s banks came up with, and initially all the roles were performed only, but then, under the influence of the classical morality, the theater became completely male. Ginze Kabuki is obliged to the fact that he received the status "High art" and from here went to conquer the rest of the world. At the head of the troupe Kabuki, then there was a legendary triumvirate of artists, "Danciku-SA": Dangzuro Ninth, Kikoroo Fifth and Sadandani First – They are "Allowed" In a non-resisant building with arches and pilasters, one of many Maidzi reforms corresponding to the spirit of reforms in a silver workshop. However, after some time, in 1925, the architect Okada Sinichiro elevated a special "House Kabuki" on the manner of the castle of the era of medieval feudal wars. Cabuczis Sinichiro became a kind of manifest of new relations with the West: do not borrow everything in a row with the heat of neophyte, as before, but pickily choose the desired. And, in turn, make their own achievements. So in Ginze began the return process: Europe began to discover the country of the rising sun.

However, from the inside theater to this africon is similar to the usual Western, only photos of artists in the lobby are decorated with sakura branches. In the parter, more than a thousand beds, but also from the top tier is clearly visible a complex scene with the right "on the gym" Two narrow peeling. Costumes and makeup characters are dazzling, movements due to sandals on the legs are completely unusual, not to mention music and unexpected "appearance" and "Provalach" characters in hatches on stage. You do not understand anything with unusual, although in the program in detail, and in English, including the content of the play, and the translation of the dialogues provide headphones. But, as experts say, the Japanese themselves do not follow the logic of action. It is an acting theater, and here go exclusively on "star". A special style of execution of a particular role is exactly transmitted from the Father to the Son, the dynasties are rooted in the XVII century, and the names of their representatives sound like royal … In general, I took the headphones and just plunged into the magic of theatrical action. In the head, however, the thought was driving all the time: if it’s sophisticated, the posbaysky, which is called Plebee, who is called Plebee, then what is the comparison with him but. It turned out everything on the same ginze, where there is this traditional aristocratic theater. It turns out that not only every gesture is symbolic, but also the meaning of this gesture varies depending on which point of the scene is an artist.

Step VII. Gaidzin

Gloths exotic Japan in the middle "Globalist" district, dive in it back, or rather – to the metro station "Higashi Ginza", That is, B "Eastern Ginza", Where I have an appointed meeting with a familiar photographer, Jeremy Sutton Hibbert. This young Scot has already managed to work in Ukraine and in Central Asia, and now he "Gaidzin", What is the name of the Japanese of all foreigners who came to them. Jeremy in Tokyo for three years, he willingly volunteered to help find a good point for shooting a silver shop on top. In his opinion, nothing can be found better than the Bar of the Association of Foreign Journalists on the 25th floor of a regular office building along the opposite of Kabuki, on the side of Cho, on the border with the imperial gardens. His height is 56 m. It is impossible to build above, and until the 90s "Planck" was still modest – 31 m. City authorities are afraid that gigantic homes "will kill" home atmosphere. This, however, does not prevent the owners of the universal network "Matsudzakaya" scare old-timers project of a 178-meter skyscraper, which they are cunning, bypassing the rules, are going "Do not erect, but build up" Above the existing structure, which seems to be not prohibited ..

Learning about what I have "do not fold relationships" With Ginse, delicate Jeremy led me "on", a "under" her. Pedestrian tunnel connecting three metro stations, stretched almost two kilometers. Lovers of continuity, the Japanese laid it out of red brick – the first one was erected "European" district.

Step back. Kanto earthquake

In 1923, Tokyo Ridge Center Street completely boldly from the face of the Great Earthquake Kanto. All the concerns of those who were once afraid to live in "traps Gaidzinov", justified: the stone facades collapsed, drowned under themselves "Stuffing". There was a breakfast time, the ovens were treated, and therefore there was a giant fire. More than 140,000 people died in Tokyo. Since then, on the anniversary of dramatic events, September 1, the Japanese comes in full compliance with the national character. Do not declare mourning, as they would do in their place any, and conduct nationwide exercises of firefighters ..

Rising on the elevator, we get right in a multilingual turmoil club, and satellite, smiling, says: "If you and this is not to taste, you are hopeless". My legs have a sea of ​​lights. It has already been dark, and the night elegant Ginza calls to the sky and buyers of such a symphony of advertising that even a month seems to be involved in it. And again, one of the drawings of Professor Arai is remembered: I still seemed in the plane that it looks like a leaf from the Japanese book.

Top view leaves no doubt: "Hieroglyphs" Quarters circled around the perimeter of the district railway lines and highway raised above Tokyo on piles. Ginza is the text about Japan, written in a special, "Lightweight" manner so that any guidzin could read it. And at the same time – the text about the West, affordable Japanese. There is a special syllable alphabet – Catakana. It was invented when it took the hieroglyphs to transcribe foreign words. Silver workshop is the same catakana.

Step VIII. Banzai

Jeremy dresses me from hands to hands friends-British. He himself hurry: tomorrow he goes into three-month swimming on the ship "Greenpeca" Together with a girlfriend, Japanese activist of this environmental movement. The expedition will track the whaling flotillas that in the southern seas and the Antarctic hunt for coushlots. His friends – Librarian of the Association of Julian Reall and Political Analyst from Tokyo University Craig Chilvers – drag me to a bar counter to get acquainted with regulars. In Japan, everything "Gaidzina" – brothers, and journalists and suppressed. I begin to understand how a member of this honorable club correspondent "Frankfurter Tsaytung" Richard Zorga, and part-time Soviet scout Ramzay, collected information for its correspondence to the center. Having learned about my editorial assignment, the company poured the company wounds me about Ginze, and then it climbs the game. Crashing for teams by nationalities, "Gaidzina" begin to consider how many firms and shops from their countries advertise Ginza lights. Julian collects bets, Craig acts as an arbitrator. At first, the Americans are broken forward, shouting with a gambling choir: "Apple, American Express, Tiffany, Cola Cola, Washington Shoes ..", However, mine "Personal consultant", Mr. Raalle, whisper advises to put on the French -, "Do not go". At Galov "powder" really turns out more: "Yves Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Hermes, Givenchy, Chanel, Printemps .. " "Banzai! Hooray!" Japanese themselves – out of competition: their companies are still more. But to the childish competitions, they do not bother – let Gaidzins urshat pride. And Julian winks satisfaction with the losers: books, they need to read. French "era" here began at the beginning of the last century. Although at the state level, Japanese politicians focused, rather, the leading military powers of the era – Britain and Germany, their wives and daughters, passing the alphabet of Western fashion, intuitively felt a special loss of Paris. Hinza covered Galleania, which became at all patted after the earthquake of 1923 and the restoration of the area in a specific spirit: "Moga" Modern Girls – "Modern girls") and "Moba" (respectively, "Boys" – Modern BOYS) now stayed for hours in absolutely "Monparnassskiki" a cafe. The famous of them was Plantan, where everyone was filled with a popular artist Impressionist with Matsuyama. The flirty bastards and long earrings, which are now in Japan, who are still in Japan, have been reminded everywhere in the course of the twentieth and thirties everywhere "France – Our Guide Star". Of the same time – the indestructible desire of young Japanese women to bare their crystal legs, previously hidden kimono and long dresses with a tournament.

Step ix. Ginbura

The morning of the next day cares me in society’s society. We are walking by Ginze with Alexander Kairis, Biophysia, Dr. Science, which came up with how to restore the acid-alkaline balance in the body of astronauts after the flight and even managed to lie down "Patient with eyebrows" – L.AND. Brezhnev. In the USSR, the scientist had everything well, but at the end of the seventies he unexpectedly married a Japanese from the ancient samurai family and left for Tokyo. Now Alexander teaches at the University of Tokyo and is successfully engaged in entrepreneurship, and externally resembles the Max Filmartist Vista Zyudov.

"Throw out your books on Ginze’s heads from your head, relax and do the Ginburg", – Advocked the dayless Gaidzin.

Step back. Science walk

Ginbur – the word appeared in the medium "Hooligan" Golden Youth One hundred years ago when merging noun "Ginza" and verb "drum" ("Elephantially elevated"). Normal for "Representatives" Streets of large cities Gloover shopping here. Doing ginbara, perhaps it is possible to spontaneously, yielding instant toleration, buy yourself something. This lesson involves the special state of the soul, when life seems beautiful, there is nowhere to hurry, and the only thing your concern is not to miss something interesting in a changeable silver workshop.

The time is perfect for Ginbura – Saturday. On weekends and holidays, the area, like Khreshchatyk in Kiev, turns into a pedestrian zone, where 300,000 people walk at the same time. Cairis and I went to having to wander away from the giant complex of cinemas and shops Mullion, near the railway station "Yurakuche". Just on this dual skyscraper with smooth knowledge between advertising films, one of the main symbols of modern Highteches gynesse – SEIKO watches. Every hour, under the battle, the dial drifts up, revealing the gilded mechanism (like us) a huge gold-plated mechanism with figures dancing in it, but my satellite is more inspired by samurai with swords on premiere posters. In Japan, my friend managed to do in addition to scientific and business, to do more and acting career: once performed on television in some educational program and attracted the cinema. Since then, Sasha has replayed a good hundred and diverse Gaidzinov. Well, it’s like your negro on "Mosfolf". Jokes jokes, and the role of the Danish monk-doctor in the film "Shadow of the Warrior" Had Kurasava played too. True, in the international version of the heartless producer of the picture, Francis Ford Coppola left from the role only a few seconds, but in home, Japanese, hire – as many three scenes.

Cinema on Ginsa In general, a special topic. From the beginning of the last century it was here that the whole country got acquainted with the wonderful world, the Lumiere open brothers. Kiosks with photos of western "star"- "Buromeido" – took the place of benches sold "Yuki", Engraving portraits of Kabuki artists. Peak of the same task "The most important of the arts" fell on the 50th. Premiere "Rasloon", "Seven samurai" and other legendary films that marked the appearance of Japan on the map of world cinema, passed in the cinemas of Hinza: Then they were in cho, probably more than restaurants. Later "golden age" Slowly ended, the generation of Kurosava has exhausted itself, but today in the foyer "Mulion" Advertising campaign of the new local blockbuster about death (during the second world) of the largest lincard of all times and peoples is commercially – "Yamato". Its a huge model is exhibited on the street right in the midst of the district and very much like ginbura lovers.

Step X. Sony

We descend a little further on one of the two main roads of Hinza – Harumi Dori, which begins at the Imperial Palace and stretches to the very Tokyo Bay. Here on our way there is the first of "Great Perekrestkov" – Sukiyabasi.

His main attraction – Sony Building. Outside – Building without windows, glass facade is turned into one giant screen. For the 66th year, when Asihar Josinob Architect came up with such a decision, it was incredibly bold. Inside, in small rooms that resemble the cabins of the interplanetary starship are demonstrated by the latest electronic news firms. Everything can not only buy everything, but also try. Sony Building is a test shop, where the buyer gets used to the wonders fell on his head engineers and programmers of the company. Boys enthusiastic "Cut" in crazy electronic games. A couple of lovers, embracing, froze in a chair in front of the giant super-telephone screen. Several solid fathers of families are engageless discussing the advantages of the new camcorder, removing each other and admiring the result. But the main excitement reigns at the stand with a robot dog AIBO ERS-7M3 for $ 2,000. Aibo knows how to find out in the face of his owners, wake them in the morning, understand and respond (!) more than a hundred phrases, expressing six feelings ("happiness", "anger", "disgust", "sadness", "fear", "astonishment"). But the main thing – he knows how to learn and develops into absolutely individual "Personality". So it all depends on the owner: if you play regularly with your "pet" In the ball, he will learn new funny tricks. Elderly housewives especially gloss from toys. When you see how they are gently stroking the plastic back "the most expensive alarm", Went away: "Aibo, Arabie", it becomes clear: Sony’s corporation worry about nothing.

Step XI. Bushido

"Ginza now has become a place for people like us. For those who for 40 .." – Smiling kairis. Young people "Touching" In the area of ​​Sibuya, where stores for teanagers are concentrated and "Metalists" in chains are lazily staring on strolling schoolgirls in uniform "Matoski". Day Matrona from the middle class make purchases here and tell each other news, and in the evening – their tired after the labor day of husbands. About the same as they spend time on Ginze, neglecting the ascetic commandments of the Codec Becido ("Warrior path"), – later. First about the ladies. The whole Cho was fueled by portraits of cute and shy young men in huge corneals: this is the favorite of all Japanese middle-aged, Korean artist Bo Jon Yoon. He played a charming loser in the series "Winter Sonata", I conquered all of Asia, and now his portrait is banging even on socks worth two dollars. When Jon came to Tokyo, the police forbade him to go out to do not give God, did not break "On souvenirs" Defeassed fans. Moreover, the phenomenon of the popularity of this television star is due to the qualities opposite to those attracted by the usual viewers. "It seems so unprotected and delicate. He wants to regret it", – Even the forty-haired office lady sighs (so in Japan called business women). I will regret Yona and wish about him, along the way, choosing a new dress or sitting in a cafe, – Favorite ladies in Ginze.

… and before the cafe in the area played more important – an ideological role. That was Western "ram", who pierced the powerful wall of the Asian gelady. Japanese with all its conservatism is quite flexible in behavior and always, if necessary, ready to learn the new rules of the game. In the 20-30s, he studied like this: first, for example, in a cafe "Columbine", Scribed "Francofil"The painter of Fujitu Tsuguyi on nicknamed Leonardo, I sevenched the famous intellectuals who visited Paris itself. Then ordered "Sukurumi" (Distorted "Shu-a la-cream", Chou A" La Cre’me – Cupcake with cream) and with caution started flirting with waitress – "Suifogar" Sweet Girls – "Charming girls"). These foolish, not like not similar to women with vintage chaplain engravings in lace alarms "Tribified" and then "Examined" everyone who wanted to master wisdom "Western lifestyle". In addition to cafe, they worked "Taxi dancers" Dancing Hall. Every three minutes of fockey, tango or step with such laryrs were worth a one and a half yen. And finally, the highest "European chic" – Refreshing milk. For the great-grandfathers, it was still the same exotic, which for the modern Europeans remains koumiss … All these miracles hit GIZZ after the misfortune of 1923, ousting archaic tea houses and geisha. And the places they needed more and more, so soon there was a spray to the south, having increased twice, with four cham to eight. At the same time, he became the first high-altitude district of the capital: 6-7-storey houses were risen in corporate identity "Asia over Europe" – Stone boxes with columns, crowned with Japanese "Western" Roofs.

Step XII. Shinto

We drank too "Ritual" Coffee with milk in a small cafe right under Sony Building. The drink itself, as usual in Japan, turned out to be a bad taste, but from our table, a view of the most beautiful building of Ginza – a store "Hermes", Created by the star of modern architecture Italian Renzo drunk. Thousands of glass blocks were left for construction, cast for medieval technology from Venetian glass. Each of them in its own way refracting light, and therefore "Ideal" The outlines of the walls, calculated on the computer, fancy "Tryozat" and come to life both in the rays of the Sun and in the light of night lights. Between the two towers, the design of the mirrors located at a different angle is installed, where almost the whole area is repeatedly reflected. And to finally "finally" Spectators, architect planted in blocks located at the level of human eye, the goods themselves, which are traded here: Spirits and leather products. Such an unexpected advertising, and the whole appearance of the store, I think, perfectly conveys a classic Japanese postulate in Western form: "Holding a big deal, do not forget about the details". The passion for the trifles of the Japanese, of course, from the national religion, Sintoism, where every pebble is dedicated, but the ability to think largely, most likely, from the vastity of Buddhism.

As if in Unison, the historophilosophical reflections of the Hightec part of the Ginza ends, yielding a place "Tokyo Times Square" – Crossroads of the fourth chance. Here, Harumi Dori, for which we follow Alexand Kairis, intersects with the ceremony, the main dear of these places. It is sometimes mistaken in guidebooks "Ginzastritis". The architectural space of the intersection is organized around the oldest building already mentioned by me with a large clock on the tower, and now very expensive department store "Vako". Purchase anything in this strict gray house, similar to the old-fashioned gentleman in the cylinder, – the dream of any Japanese, and in the 45th he survived only by a happy accident. While all the ginza was destroyed by bombs "Flying fortresses", "Vako" I did not even get scratches and was requested by General Makartur under the bid of the eighth occupation army.

To change the British Ginze of the XIX century and the French ginze of the first half of the XX confidently settled Ginza American. Next to the fourth chance, in the store "Matsuya", Voentorg and the parcel warehouse for American servicemen opened. Do I need to say that the whole area immediately turned into a giant black market?

Step XIII. Yakuza

Market "Opened" At night on illuminated by lanterns portable counters ("Yomidze"). Suddenly, from where neither cigarettes, radio receivers, lighters, jeans and other gifts of the winner appeared here appeared here. All this petrose trade in Ginze kept in his hands, to undergo indigenous Japanese Yakuza under himself, a modest US marine servant, and earlier "soldier" New York Mafia Nick Doveti. His headquarters was located in the department store "Lansko". Began to the Tokyo round of career of an enterprising Italian since he "Helped" command of the eighth army open an officer club "Rocker-4". There, right in military buses, every evening was brought to work 2,000 girls (the name of the club, by the way, had nothing to do with "Rok", which was still not born. Word "rocker" can be translated as "Gold washing tray", a "4" appeared from the name of the corresponding crossroads of Hinza). The case immediately paid off – the money was enough and the generals, and mafia.

Post of the Chief Counselor, "Consiliery", Dovetri has held Russian Beloamigrant Vladimir Bobrov. In 1953, in a strange attack of patriotism, taking a mafia cassau, together with the Russian accountant of this glorious restriction, the first beauty of Ginza Nina, Bobrov rushed on a motor boat to Soviet shores. But it turned out not fate. Fugitives got lost in the fog and fell into the hands of American counterintelligence. And the black market itself, surviving and interdiscipers of Yakuza, and economic crises fell victim to the Olympics – 1964. Then the city authorities, having attached foreigners, attached maximum effort and "Dropped" illegal trading to the outskirts. And here, where we walk, a reminder of the night shine yomidze remains an annual contest showcases and night marchs "Otto-Hikari" ("Sounds and illumination") In the framework of the Big Carnival of Ginza in the second week of October ..

Ginbura is unthinkable without a visit to the next to "Vako" The oldest on the Japanese islands of the European-type bakery, where they sell "Sakura Antera" – Buns with filling of sweet bean paste and saline colors cherry. Especially loved them and ordered the late Maidi (rules in 1867-1912). The contrast of the sweet and salty in combination with a delicate dough is amazing.

It is also worth Jumping Harumidori and meet another old-timer district – shop "Kyuchedo". This is the delightful kingdom of Japanese calligraphy, paper, paints and incense. Here you can buy everything you need to go next "Code" ("by smell") and "Sedo" ("by brush"). And be sure of the quality acquired: brand itself "Kyuchedo" existed from 1663, and the trading house on Ginze – from the 1880th.

Step XIV. Mikimoto

In general, the Ginza Center is firmly held by the Japanese shopping giants, in a strange whim of fate all as one starting on "M": "Mitsukoshi", "Matsuya", "Matsudzakaya", "Mikimoto". To walk along them – I don’t care what to make a trip to the history of modernization of Japan: "Mitsukoshi" The first began to spread the goods not on the floor, as was taken into ancient, but on the shelves and in the windows. "Matsudzakaya" first stopped demanding buyers to shoot shoes before entering. "Matsuya" The first was launched by escalators, which pockets rejoiced most of all: the provincials forgot "Wonderland stairs" About everything, including wallets. A "Mikimoto" Before first "Brand", I left the borders of the Empire. At the end of the XIX century, his founder of Kokich Mikimoto made a simple, like all ingenious, discovery: if you put a sand-"sewing" in the sink oysters-pearl, then "Deostitis" Its to the perfect shape, enveloping the mother of pearl. So it was put on the flow of the production of artificial pearls, more precisely, natural, but produced by nature by nature "order" resourceful entrepreneur. Now in the old building on Chuo-Dori, where the store and the Museum of the famous firm are located, it became closely. "Nail" Exposure – collection of unique jewelry with pearls "from Mikimoto" Works of the best jewelers of the world is changing annually. In the second chase Ginza since 2005 decorates "Mikimoto-2", Built by a talented native of South Korea Toyo ITO. No worse Renzo drunk he "spit" Customer advertising in architecture: skyscraper windows are made, of course, in the form of pearls.

Step XV. Save face

But Mikimoto did not have enough money to simply expand his main store around "Great" Fourth Crossroads. Here – the most expensive earth in the world. Any resident of Tokyo willingly show you a jewelry store "Tasaki" near the subway "Ginza", Which in the 1980s cost owners in a million dollars for each square meter.

Ten years have passed, industrial boom, in the height of which it seemed that Japan was about to catch up and distorted America, ended. "Economic bubble" burst, forcing businessmen to emit dozens from the windows of the office skyscrapers. But, oddly enough, the prices for real estate, especially in Ginze, remained at the same level: Country "Keeps face".

Now the district is experiencing a unique period of its history. For the first time, he is not aimed at the future, but last. Here you are trying to substitute the idea of ​​Japan times of the post-war economic miracle. Save images of ghesis, making it unlike any shopping street of the world. This originality is traced in combination of huge shops and cozy tiny shops where traditional goods sell. My favorite among them – "Watanabe", where they sell engravings on a tree, paper and paints, as well as a shop of dwarf trees – bonsai. They lost in the seventh cham alleys, "in the shadow" shopping and entertainment complex of a cosmetic company "Siseido", famous for the fact that here the poet Takamura Kotaro first tried Coca-Cola. And dedicated to the new taste experience felt poems.

Step XVI. Kimono

Engaged in ginbara, you must stare on the crowd. I am striking that several Japan coexists in it. People dressed in the last European fashion are going through the way with those who are in kimono and wooden geeta sandals (imagine Tver or Nevsky, where "Ponikida" from "Versach" Align with sundresses and kokoshniki). Though "Europe" In Ginsise, it is becoming more and more, here sometimes you can even meet the student of Geisch – Mayco from the neighboring quarter of Chiombasi. By tradition, experienced mentor "draw" Bright grima "Beautiful" Persons ("certified" Geisha Cosmetics does not use, any fleeting change in her face should be seen on her face) … I also saw in the middle of the day of a young man who did not have anything except leather panties. And they were escorted by his impressive assistants in strict peaks and white gloves. However, then, of course, there was a performance of an artist-avant-gardeist, an empty "Owned bourgeoisie".

Representatives of this bourgeoisie in Ginze also sometimes behave eccentric, but already on official need. Many shops have met respectable people in "Troika", who shouted something loudly, grabbing passersby over the sleeves. It turned out that this is the future chiefs of departments of large companies that were sent to advertise various goods before the increase: let it get rid of shyness residues and get used to impose their will. But – the Japanese in gauze masks. Actually, the air in Tokyo is clean. The municipality spends insane money on the environment, and I saw a rainbow over Ginse with my own eyes. So the classic cliché is still a Soviet press about "Dambing from Smog Japanese" – Full nonsense. The masks are reported to those who transfers the easy cold on the legs and is afraid to infect others. "Japanese delicacy exceeds Gaidzin’s understanding", According to the fair opinion of Kairis. I will add from myself: all imagination exceeds and their constant readiness to help. Once at night, getting lost, I turned in despair to a couple of lovers, a man’s finger, where my hotel was designated (without the like "Squata" Porter in general "Will not release" you outside). The guy in jeans spoke a little in English. He literally took my hand and led. And his girlfriend in Kimono was immediately behind two steps and seated behind, without interfering in the conversation of men. For ten quarters, I felt my back, as she hates Gaidzin, spoiled a date, but it was worth turning around – and in the face I was shining only a polite smile. Japanese – the hostage of a foreigner, he just can not allow something in his country something happened. The main thing is to understand: he knows how to help you, or not, and then it myself is stupid in horror that "Loses face", And you hearty. In the latter case, find a way to tactfully refuse to "Services" And immediately go for advice to the police station ("Coban") who is located right at the fourth chaom. Recording constructivist construction with mirror glasses is crowned with a statue of the Lug-Poor Bind Frog, personifying Ginburu. The guardian guard order, among which there will certainly have a cute girl in a flirty shaped hat, speak English and just do that they save lost foreigners.

Step XVII. Sushi

Meanwhile, the sun exceeded the western side of the horizon – it’s time to eat. Sasha did not wonder and started me in the first sushi-restaurant, on ginse such dozens. He is traditional: you need to remove shoes and sit on tatami. Interior – Mixed, Classic Japanese motifs are stylish in high-tech. Low tables are cut from a valuable tree, and dishes and even chromium chromium wands. Instead of walls separating "Cabinets", – Translucent lightweight curtains from some unusual fabric, and through them the silhouettes of other customers, cooks are visible, "sorceresses" Over your food. In the country of the rising sun, the kitchen is not hiding, but put the appearance. Cooks in artistry are not inferior to Geisham. I wonder how they manage to leave only lungs, appetizing aromas. By the way, I do not enter the restaurant, but in the sushibar, you can participate in one attraction: take up the rack and watch, as by by "Conveyor" Sweep sushi (more correctly – sucy) of different species. Well, from time to time "catch" their. Ginza specializes in these rolls from rice with raw fish, although here you can find food for every taste.

Step XVIII. Sake

… like drinking. True, in our days, sushi is increasingly driving "Choons" drink – beer that literally poured into Japan in the time of Maidzi. Jeeping again through Gyzu. On Chuo Dori has been operating for more than a hundred years "a lion", where one of the three main Japanese varieties are served – "Sapporo", as well as the names of fifty European, American and Australian. It looks from the inside as a typical Munich beer, even the waitresses are clothed in the Bavarian dresses with jackets. But in general, the Japanese are trying to comply with the national peculiarity even in such an obviously foreign business as brewing: now in Tokyo enters the fashion "Answer the rest of the world" entitled "Happosu". This cheap drink on sea water and malt cream is invented only eight years ago. But – something like "Palaughter", And the basis of the local alcohol "Mythology" Of course, to compose sake, which I and Alexander Kairis also did not fail to taste in the main sanctuary of the drink – the Sake Center "Nysons". It combines the functions of the store, where hundreds of three varieties of 15-20 degree rice vodka are sold, the museum, where you will tell you everything about it, and the cutting, where you can try as much as you like.

I came to the conclusion that the most interesting thing in Sake is how you drunk from him: not long, refinery after the countless number of wine glasses, not immediately, swallowing a glass of Russian "White", and smoothly, like a parachutist, which some time slides on the wing of the plane and only then breaks down in the abyss.

Step XIX. Art

The world of food on Ginze – the second in size after the world of trade: 3,000 stores account for 1607 bars and restaurants. Honorable third place is occupied by the world of art, only private art galleries here are more three hundred. Kairis introduces me to the gallery owner "Synod Beyutets", And himself, tired of ginbara, goes to his office. Masamichi Synod looks still very young, but, as it turned out, it trades impressionists for almost two decades. Story "Insider" Opens before me secrets "Artistic Ginza".

Step back. Van Gogh and Hokusai – one face?

When in the 1980s, the rich Japanese began to buy "Nude" Renoara, "flying lovers" Shagala, "Blue and pink acrobats" Picasso, the world art market seriously became interested in the Far Eastern Empire. In 1987, 40 million dollars came here from England "Sunflowers" Vincent Van Gogh. Of this dutch residents of the country of the rising sun consider their own, believing that in the previous life he was an artist like a hocus. Aven a year later, department store "Mitsukoshi" With Ginza acquired gouache Pablo Picasso "Acrobat and harlequin" for 38.5 million dollars. But the star hour of Japan has come in 1990, when Nikom Dotole is not a famous dealer with Hidto Kobayashi paid at auction in New York 82.5 million dollars for "Portrait of Dr. Gasha" the same Van Gogh and another 78 – for "Moulin-Gallet" Renuara (the customer was Multimillioner Saito). These purchases have become a symbol of the transformation of Japan into economic superpowers, and Ginza – in Mecca arterka. True, during the crisis of the last decade, Japanese collectors began to slowly sell the treasure success bought on the wave. Sold out including Russian customers who are becoming more and more every year. If the price of oil grows a little more – what the hell is not joking, suddenly "Dr. Gashe" Put in Moscow?

Step XX. Campai

The evening goes to Gyzu, and I last change the companion: an impenetrable Mr. Synod – on smiling Alexander Lyskina, comrade for the expedition "Around the world". Photographer only a few hours ago landed at the airport "Narita" And now it reminds me of me the very two-day presumption: stunningly stresses on the streets in three levels. Wedge, as I already know now, embrood the wedge, and to bring a colleague to the feeling, I will wear it in "Cheerful quarter" Ginza – to the hotel "Nikko". Circumcisions skipped firms. Looks like in the evening, they have repeatedly proclaimed: "Campai!" (Something cross between ours "On Health!" and "Go!"). Lights of night clubs are tempting: "Esq", "Paris". Young guys, very reminiscent Japanese with swords from the film "Kill Bill", look at your wards "Hossessmi" ("Hosts"). It is not recommended to remove, although no one will break the camera, as enlightened Europeans would have done somewhere on Ripperban in Hamburg. Experienced Lyskin pretends that he does not understand anything, and he presses and presses the shutter.

Girls who are in long evening dresses who are in short "A la Merilin Monroe", fun laugh and willingly positive. But it is worth it to appear to a potential client, all as a team switch their charm on it. Next to the Shero Hostems sitting behind his table of the Himoman with tired eyes of Cassandra. It lies with an electric flashlight in front of it: it will light up your palm during divination. Gadlocks on Ginze work mainly not with women, but with men, with those the most clerks that girls lure. The latter, by the way, are by no means priestess of love in the usual understanding. Salad love in the Japanese empire is officially prohibited since 1957, and in the club, which now before us, no depravity will. Hostesses – the same Europeanized geishas, ​​their business – flirt, which will scratch the evening tortured in the service of gentlemen. Pour beers or sake, first shout "Campai!", To joke and laugh by your jokes, sing in the company, and then it is beautiful to part with the client, I have long bowed to him, – that’s all their work. But, that is the most amazing, – and the customers themselves do not rest more often, but work! In a relaxed atmosphere created by hoscesses under "Campai!", can "destroy" the situation in the official negotiations came to a dead end due to "Shack etiquette". Large companies even pay services from their budget "evening fairies". "The easiest way to become your own closed groups in this kingdom is a couple of times to the insensitivity to get drunk with a partner from the rising sun. If the President of the Japanese company will lead you in the evening for gold places, his signatures on accounts will play for further business relationships no less important role than the cherished signature on the contract", – Fairly wrote B "Sakura branch" Soviet journalist Vsevolod Ovchinnikov. True, he wrote it in "Golden seventies", And since then, the economic crisis has forced the corporations to halve the executive expenses. Elite closed clubs, where the bottle of whiskey "Ballantine" costs 1,500 dollars, and guests only receive on recommendations – now rare. In the fashion, the aggressive style of establishments is cheaper, which are not shy of literally to pull out customers from each other.

The area with hoscesses remained behind, we are sent to the Bar of Foreign Journalists to shoot Night Guinz from above.

True, I waited there at first an unpleasant surprise: to get out right to the roof, about which it seemed to be agreeened, at first not allowed. Manager of the whole building to which the Association and Personally my new friend Julian Reall turned with the official request, politely, but firmly refused. Say, the roof opens too good overview closed for tourists residential part of the Imperial Palace. Yes, and besides, not so long ago, one suicide signed down: "The Lords of the Russians are not referenced that they are normal. "

Position, however, saved the notorious Japanese fear of losing face. Having learned about the refusal of your colleague, the club manager, located in this building, did not bother offense. He spent us with some labyrinths, opening numerous doors with its own key. And here – we are in place. From the species really captures the spirit. On the one hand, as on the palms – Gardens Mikado, on the other – Ginza. Alexander immediately lay down on the parapet with his camera and in the ominous light of the red roof lights seems to be a sniper that leads aiming fire on high-speed trains, the flow of cars, golden threads go out to the sea … and then it comes to me: Ginza is a game. Japanese sure they say only what they want to say. We are convinced that they are able to catch "Signs" and reveal the secret of their culture. Both those and others are tremendous, as it relies in a gambling game. It is not by chance of ginza day and night – such different. The real one seems to me the latter when the Japanese Broadway flashes the insane fireworks of lights.