In the top of the Pechora
Burning around from the duplicated firewood, the fire broke out brightly and illuminated the Polyana, on which our camp is located. From darkness, mighty ate was fired, reliably guarded a serene peace of night forest. It was quiet. Not a breeze, not a single foreign row. Only the noise of a pleasant melody flowing near the Auspians came from behind the trees, but this noise, strangely, only enhanced the feeling of all-consuming silence. That very, from which rings in the ears, and who will never hear in the city. Needless to try.
We sat by the fire and rested after a long day, enjoying the charm of this magic night. Over the conversations two cups of tea were drinking, and now the third boiled. I looked at the watch – half of the second. Yes, dressed. However, today you can. As – in no way, the first night of the campaign ..
Today was filled with contrasts. In the morning we drove in the train. Then Ivdel moved to the car, which after a few hours the shaking moved us to another reality.
From the world of civilization in the world of wildlife. Then another two hours we walked along the Taored trail until they were here, on this glade.
So it started our journey to the top of the Pechora. We were going to go to the plateau of Manpoupeur, in the area of which he taught his beginning of the Pechora, and then wake up this great river to the nearest settlement, where it will be possible to return back to civilization.
… Bustor Travel. We finished the cooled tea and went to the tent. The calendar was the 13th, although not, for two hours as the 14th of August 2013.
Six days later, closer to the evening, we went down to the Pechora Valley, a few kilometers below her source. Plateau manpoupler completely close. Tomorrow we run there to light down, but for now a little about the previous stage of the campaign.
The fourteenth of August in half the sixth we went to the last parking lot on Auspians, from where it begins to rise to the sadly famous and washed legends Pass Dyatlov.
From the pass to the Pechora itself, there is a road riding on the mountain tundra with SUVs and QUAs. On it continued to move. The weather is not baloballa. All days were cool and rainy. And once because of the fog even staged a trip. But in general, everything went without any difficulties and incidents. The only thing in the mountains is not everywhere there is water, so I had to carry it with you. And because of predominantly cloudy weather, it was not always possible to fully admire landscapes. However, today the weather has improved. It can be hoped that tomorrow we are waiting for a worthy compensation.
Our hopes have fully justified. The next day, overcoming a simple 5 kilometer rise, we went out on the plateau, which is considered one of the most reluctal and most beautiful places of the Ural ridge. It should be noted, not in vain. Landmark "Small mountain idols" – Exactly, the mansa translates from the LANTION language, the seven weathered posts are located, which are located along the edge of an almost perfectly smooth surface at an altitude of more than 700 meters above sea level. Six of them were lined up with a chain in one row, and one, the biggest, worth a few aside, put forward forward to meet. Stunning spectacle!
It is necessary to see and see the person to feel the most powerful energy of this place. Neither the photo nor the video will not give the sensations that you experience, being there.
Plateau Manpuponger is part of the Pechoro Ilych Reserve and is protected by the state.
There are constantly carrying the Watch inspector of the Reserve and make up protocols at all, who has no permission to visit. But guys are good, unbelone and hospitable. After an official acquaintance with the preparation of protocols (we did not have permits) we were invited to guest hut, where we were treated with lunch. Izba stands away from the plateau and is a good two-storey house built recently. And although during the watch there the inspector live there, it was built specifically for tourists. If you wish, you can stay on the night or stay for a longer term.
Soon after us, a group of four people with backpacks approached the hub. It turned out that these are guys from our field – participants of the expedition "Platinum belt of Russia". They, like us, a walk-water journey, only much more complex and long. They go almost from the coast of the Kara Sea and are going to finish the route in. Ushma. Today they have the 53rd day of the road. Cool!
We all together have come across the hut, and in the morning they also went down to the Pechora, where and parted. The guys went there, from where we started our way. On Auspiyu. We also waited for Pechora.
Rolling the camp, we tried on the road, down the river. While on foot. That stream, which is a Pechora in the most upper reaches, is not suitable for alloy.
Even on the catamaran. According to available information, the alloy is possible after the mouth of a large generated – right inflow Pechora, to which, if you believe the source, 35 km.
The same source claimed that along the Pechora was naked trail. Apparently, once it was, because something similar to the path was sometimes encountered on our way. But it happened very sometimes and very briefly. During the rest of the same time, it was necessary to break through the browel and thick undergrowth, enjoying, so to speak, all the "charms" of the faded taiga. Yes, it is not on the way to march ..
The next day, we still persevened, and in trying to find the path, continued to go along the taiga. And only in the afternoon, recognizing such maneuvers ineffective, they decided to change the tactics. We just descended to the river and went along the door Pechora.
The idea turned out to be great! The depth of the river just ankle. In rare cases. Though even without failure, but because of the shallow depths, it does not knock down. In general, it goes easily, much easier than in a taiga. Speed immediately increased.
On the evening of the next day we got a camp on a big island a few kilometers above the mouth of a big empty. On the island a very comfortable rocky beach – an ideal place for a stapel. On it and settled, intending tomorrow to collect catamaran and start alloy. A little, however, confused the fact that the Pechora, although it became noticeably wider, remained still shallow, and her bed was abounded by stones. However, to a big empty one somehow. And there, if you believe descriptions, – and they wanted to believe – the Pechora will be quite a shipping river. At least for our catamaran.
In the morning I boiled work. First of all, it was necessary to prepare a row for the frame. On the island of suitable trees did not turn. I had to shore and look for there. It is worth noting that the top course of the Pechora is also part of the Pechoro Ilych Reserve. And the reserve is considered only the right bank, and the left, which, in my opinion, is no worse, this is not. Pilia took from a non-protected coast.
At three in the afternoon, our ship was launched on the water, and we went to swim.
By this case, the sky immediately broke out. It became cooler, and blew wind. Naturally, counter. Everything is like! Partisan weather. Feel your intelligence in the rear of the enemy!
Swimming itself passed perfectly. In the sense that it was significantly different from the classic, habitual all, alloy and resembled some race with obstacles. I had to constantly jump from the catamaran and breast on the water, conducting our vessel among countless stones and shames. Confess rather nervous occupation.
Such "swimming" continued until the mouth of a big empty, after which the situation has changed. Pechora, having accepted the water of a big empty, became deeper. There is an opportunity for a normal alloy. The information was faithful.
About two kilometers from the mouth on the right bank, among the firs, they saw the hut. Moored. Rose to the hut, which turned out to be a bath. Judging by the fresh brothers, cut her down recently and, what is called conscience. Nice to look at.
From the bath there is a trail, which rests on the old wooden staircase, coming from the water itself on the hillock. Shore here cool and high.
Raising the stairs, went to the big glade. The glade was standing – a typical hunting winter, near the covered veranda with a stove, a little bit alone Labaz, the same new, like a bath, with a castle hanging on the door.
There were no people anywhere. We entered the house whose door was not locked. Inside the usual interior for the Taezhnaya, the wide part of the spaces that occupied most of the space; Crouching stove and a narrow long table along the wall with a window. On the wall near the entrance, some kind of clothing, the door is old shoes, under the table empty plastic bottles. On the table Standard trivia: matches, salt, grinding candles, enameled mug – a constant attribute of such a winter and t. D.
Judging by a number of signs, for example, in the absence of products in the house, and at the very situation that reigned in it, constantly did not live here. But beyond the place. All so good, well-groomed. The owner’s hand felt. One bath with labaz something cost. A veranda. No worse than on Cordon Kuzmich from a famous movie.
So what is this place? The cordon is not like. There live constantly, all year round. Here you can see that there are departures. For hunting huts too good. Yes, and what hunting – the reserve. Agreed on the fact that it was built for the needs of the reserve. So that his employees were, where to accommodate during the field work. As it turned out, this assumption turned out to be true.
And the rain did not stop. Only now, being under the roof, I realized how wet. It would be foolish to leave so suddenly acquired shelter and continue moving. It was necessary to dry things, including sleeping bags and a tent. In the droplet hollow it will do the best. Yes, and there is no way to hurry. The task set for today we fulfilled. Catamaran collected, unpleasant plot in shallow water passed. Ahead of 120 km of a relaxing alloy along the Pechora protected, which flows among the virgin taiga and does not know the invasion of numerous tourists. Calm peaceful beauty, where neither a bustle nor a hurry.
So we decided nowhere not to rush, stretch pleasure.
The next day we got up, as usual, at six in the morning. It was raining. Went to bed. Stood at eight. Rain. Went to bed. At nine o’clock I went outside, evaluate the situation. The rain almost stopped, but was ready to resume at any time with the former force. If desired, it would be possible to move, but I did not find such a desire. On the contrary, I wanted to stay and spend here more day. I love like huts lost in Taiga Wilderness. Yes, and we were not treated with a bath yesterday. One more reason to linger.
Returning to the house, I shared my considerations with Artyom. I liked the idea. Especially on the part of the bath. Solven. Today we have a bunny day.
With firewood for bath I had to tinker. There was a wood level behind the house. There were dried chocks and an ax. Yesterday we split several to protrudes. But there were few chocks, and for the bath we did not take them. And then all the stock of firewood, which, of course, is not good. Therefore I had to sweat, sawing the fallen cedar, discovered not far from the bath. Coles Cedar chocks are also not without difficulty. But the bath succeeded in glory! After hot steam steers in cold water … unforgettable.
In the morning, standing as usual at six, I went out, see the weather. Heaven although it was not cloudless, but he instilled a certain confidence that the rain today is a day off. Well, forward, on galleys! The oars have already existed.
Quickly gathered and descended to the river. Tied the catamaran, the backpacks fastened on the cylinders, saddled them and designed from the nearly native shore.
Kilometers twenty after the start at the right shore noticed an inflatable boat. Mooring. From the shore, the trail went to the forest and led to the hut, which was visible among the trees. From her came a man and headed for us. Approached. Greeted, talking. It turned out that this is a former reserve employee. Now lives on Yamal. Says that misses these places. Here, I took a vacation, arrived.
Here it was abandoned on the motor. Back flashes with its own. But this is a week later. In the meantime is waiting here. By the way, he learned from him that four Cordon on the Pechora. The rest are somewhat rally, including the one in which we spent the night are hospitals, and they are intended, as we properly suggested, for the residence of the reserve staff during field work.
Also learned that to the nearest Cordon – Sherje – 22 kilometers. It is located next to the mouth of the Great Schite – the right tributary Pechora. Host name Victor. Now he has a sister with a friend, and volunteer lives from Moscow. They already heard about us. From Manpupongor Cordon reported. So waited. Fine. There and swell.
In half the sixth, we went through the mouth of a large Sherje and moored at the high rocky shore, on which Cordon stood.
Previously there was a village, and several houses have been preserved until now. So Ship is not a lonely standing with a barn and a bath, but a whole settlement. True, the houses are already old, dying and for housing suitable except in summer.
Except in which Victor lives. This community house is dramatically allocated among the others. To him and headed.
Victor met us welcoming. Spent in the house.
– So you are the two of Yekaterinburg. Healyzhan. Not often now the Pechora is fused. More and more Ilychch.
On the stove boiled kettle. Victor poured tea on mugs, chopped bread and put a bowl on a table with a low-headed Harius.
– Dinner not yet prepared. Bounce while off the road, and then before the evening there is still far.
After "climbed off the road", went beyond the backpacks. Attributed them to the guest house where we were determined for the night. I got acquainted with other inhabitants of Cordon: Tatiana and Sergey from Vologda, and Nikolai from Moscow. And Nikolay arrived not to visit. He, despite the solid age, works here volunteer. However, guests do not sit idle. Work here everything is enough. So we made our modest lept. Helped to drag the flight of firewood from the street in Saray.
In the evening, Artem took the camera and went to the coastal cliffs, from where the wonderful view of the Pechora Valley.
And I walked through the forest, gathered some fungi.
After the late dinner, who passed in a pleasant conversation, we went to bed. Since the early rise was assigned only from us, with everyone they said goodbye in advance. And Viktor thanked for hospitality.
However, because of the rain, which is the other day, lil from the morning and almost until the evening, the guest had to stay. More for a day.
And only the next morning we were able to continue our journey, intending to reach the half in the evening. The hollow is the first cordon on the Pechora. There is a south border of the Ural region of the reserve. Below the field of the river ceases to be protected. On our way this cordon is the last. Up to him 46 km. Then another 30 to Ust-Unti, where we are going to complete the campaign.
A couple of hours after the exit, they stopped near one pretty rock, breakfast. Spread the fire, boiled water, brewed tea. the beauty.
During the way, several more stops were done, including each of two cordons to, so to speak, testify their respect.
In half the sixth, as a schedule, we moored at the high left shore, on the top of which, still from afar, was visible to the hindrance surrounded by economic buildings. It was a hollow. From the river to Cordon, a wooden staircase led. Judging by the absence of boats, the owners left somewhere. According to Victor, we knew that two brothers live on Cordon: Andrei and Alexey. Alexey – Inspector of the Reserve, and the elder brother, who helps him. They themselves are local, from Yaksha.
We rose to the hut. On top of a beautiful overview for three sides of the horizon. Amazing view! Arbor stands near the cliff. You can sit for hours and look at the Pechora. Soon, one after another, two boats seemed. Came to the shore, moored. These were the owners.
Victor warned them about our appearance, so nothing had to explain. After a short acquaintance, everyone went to the house, "climb the worm".
It’s time to resolve the question regarding departure from Ust-Ugon. Victor said that Alexey knows how to get out from there. Ust-unta is the first settlement on the Pechora. Or last. How to view. If sailing in civilization, then the first. If from the last. In any case, it is pretty a dense village, which, although it has a road communication with the outside world, but nothing regular on this road goes. Once a week, a postal machine comes from which you can leave. It turned out that this day is just today. The car is already gone. It remained to be relied on local residents with cars, and there are three to four. Or on the visitors of fishermen, if any.
Alexey volunteered to us. He suggested for a reasonable fee to deliver us to the ust-unty on the motorcy and assist in search of the car. We perceived his proposal with enthusiasm. It was interesting to ride on the motorcy, and with Alexey, who knows everyone in Ust-Uter, to find the car will be easier.
We disassembled catamaran, dried the cylinders and laid them in the backpacks. Our alloy along the Pechora is over. And with him and ended the active part of the whole travel.
Summing up the water stage, it can be said that the alloy along the Pechora is a monotonous rowing, which does not represent any sporting interest. There are no dangerous thresholds. And non-hazardous too. But here a lot of films. So constantly have to work in the paddle. And even in areas with a strong flow due to a shallow depth, it is not very angry. Especially if you consider that almost all such sites are confined to relocates, which are here a great set.
Whatever it was, but we did your 5-6 km / h. Not too straining. That do not speak, and sit on the backpack and wave the paddle incomparably easier than walking and dragging this backpack on yourself.
As for interest, in addition to sports, there are other. For example, cognitive or aesthetic. Here’s everything in order. The calm nature of the river makes it possible to fully enjoy the beauty of her shores, where among the fir-fir taiga here, then there are grand cliffs, as if epic vents, guarding this beautiful kingdom. Kingdom of Reserve Pechora.
… the next day was filled with contrasts. The powerful stream of inevitability, which proceeds us through the chain of events, threw a passing train in the night car, returning from the world of the original nature to the usual world of civilization.