Ingushetia: people towers
Iopil moves pretty cheerful, despite his old age. Thin face, thin legs, but in the fragile his body, as it turned out, a healthy mind. Therefore, the old man is confidently going uphill, as if there was nothing easier for him in this life. I follow him on his heels and try not to stumble about the stones, which is enough on the trail. We go silently. On the horsepower Tulup, Tubette and Black Loaded Pants. In general, his outfit is modest, because in such wilderness it makes no sense to dress up.
– My ancestors lived in this tower, – Iopil with a dry hand indicates a medieval structure, which in view of a rather dying time, – and in that too, they also lived.
Picture It opens fabulous. Mountains, green slopes, thick forest and a complex of ancient towers, which only complement this Caucasian landscape. If the entire republic is now covered with a network of asphalt roads and people live in brick houses, then in previous times they moved along the mountain paths, and the nights of their corned in such towers. These buildings occupy a special place in the culture and history of the Ingush. Therefore, they are proud, they are saved. Even the name of Gialgiai (so the people call himself) translates as "people towers".
In the past life, Isopil was the builder. Born, grew up and lived on the plain. As many as 50 years, while suddenly did not decide to go to the mountains to finish your days on my grandfather. Since then, another 25 years have passed. Now the Isopil has its own farm here, 30 goals of livestock, pond with fish, gardens, fruit trees. Even electricity here has not yet spent. Therefore, there is an old man to use a noisy generator. Well, he can not without TV with dark winter evenings!
– Yes, it’s hard, of course, it was when only moved to the mountains. The road is just ten years ago punched. And before this went on foot. Every day! So I have less weight than it is.
But all these difficulties are only a modest fee for the mountains! Here Fresh air, clean water, silence, peace and safety. So it is not surprising that the old man is so happy in these parts.
– I think you can live here, yes? For the sake of health at least! – Laughs Isropyl, noticing how I am shocked seen. – I say, for 25 years I have never been sick with flu! It’s not for you to live on the plain!
On a piece town of Isopil takes away the word with us that we will come again.
– You will be my guests! – he shouts after. And I am sure that he does not throw words to the wind.
In the Muslim countries of the East, they believe that the guest is a gift of Allah. But Ingush guests took the guests even before Islam came to them. Accepted and friends, and strangers. And always and under any circumstances. Since ancient times, they were considered a shame not to let the one who stands at the threshold of your house. The traveler was placed on the top floor, where for such as he, a special room was assigned. Surprisingly, such rooms were in every residential tower (there were also combat towers). The guest provided everything you need: bed and blanket, dishes and food. Even his kitchen has his own. And none of the relatives had the right to disturb him. Only a day on the third stranger carefully asked who he, from where, where the path holds and how long he wishes to stay. That’s where the roots are current Caucasian hospitality!
About the ancestors
In the trembling light, the lantern can be seen. Smooth, white and with teeth. Skull behind bars, not reach him. He looks at you with empty glasses and as if it reminds that you are also not eternal. This skull, like the other remains around him, rests in the tower with lattices and a well. So the solar graves look like. Unique facilities that are found throughout Ingushetia.
– I came to dying there. Descended once – and everything, no way out, – tells Magomed. – And all the dead, of course, left there.
The grave is constructed in such a way that the body remained and blown by all winds gradually mumfied. And even wild animals could not make the remains. But the corpses stole people. It did the enemies to disgrace the relatives of the deceased.
– "So that the body of your father was stolen!"- That’s how cursed in those times," explains Magomed. – And if you do not revenge for that, then the shame on the whole rank.
It is worth noting that with theft of corpses in Ingushetia has long been tied up. With the arrival of Islam, the dead began to bury in the ground. So the solar graves remain just monuments.
By the way, the most unusual grave belongs not to a person, but Bars.
– Someone believes that this is just a legend, but I tell you – the truth there is everything! Even bones of this leopard remained!
Since Magomed, once Bars hit a trap and was wounded. But he saved one good man. Then Bar as a sign of gratitude began to bring his prey.
– And they would like friends, yes, – continues Magomed – while someone from another kind did not kill this leop. He was built a small tower of the grave, buried him there. Barca. And lie there still his bones. Do not go there now, but we can walk if you don’t believe.
History with leopard, naturally, ended cruel. Yes, the Caucasus is famous for its traditions of blood revenge. But Ingush can not only take revenge, but also forgive. Until time.
– Here is your story, – begins his story of Mulatto, the other is our accompanying. – one bad man, drunk he was, knocked down by the car of another person. To death. But I forgave him, did not take the ruble with him. Then the second time he shot down. Our fellow villagers. And again, what can you do, drunk! But our fellow villagers, dying, said: "Do not kill him!"And I forgive him, the brothers did not even touched. Then he shot down for the third time! Again to death, and again drunk. The relatives of the unfortunate wanted to forgive him, but learned about other two cases. Then … – Mulat flips and ending his story with the guilty view, – they committed an act of revenge. Killed it.
Memo to tourist
In Ingushetia, there is something to see and what is surprised.
Memorial complex "Nine towers", the city of Nazran
Towers symbolize the number of deported peoples. On the territory of the complex there is a museum dedicated to the victims of repression, deportation and conflict of the autumn of 1992, as well as fountains, alleys and monuments to heroes.
Temple of Thaba-Yerda
According to one of the versions, it arose in the VIII-IX centuries, which gives reason to consider it one of the most ancient Christian temples in the territory of modern Russia. Until the 40s, the temple remained the cultural and spiritual center of Mountain Ingushetia. Mekh Khel was gathered in Thaba – the Vainakhov Council, on which the elders, according to Adatam, established the order of land ownership, coordinated the norms of behavior, trade issues, criminal penalties. In addition, nationwide gatherings convened in the temple and centralized preparation for military campaigns.
Erected between the X and XVII centuries and are located mainly in the Jairh district of the Republic. Three main types of towers are distinguished: residential, hazel and combat. The main difference between Ingush towers is their significant height in relation to the base – 10: 1. One of the most striking examples of defensive buildings is the Inznushka Thather.
Sports and tourism
In modern Ingushetia, skiing (there are two tracks with artificial abnormalization) and by bicycle (the only Russian routehill route corresponding to international standards is here), and to learn the region is best in hiking ethnocook.
If you like event tourism, pay attention to the following annual events: Tournaments on the battle of M-1 "Battle of Narzov" and "Battle in the Mountains", the Festival of Cold Weapons "Dagger", the stage of the Russian Cup stage of the Ingushetia Rally.