Initially was Greece
We stood at the foot of the Acropolis and thought how to climb him. There were three ways: take a taxi, sit down on a bus or climb on the hill on foot. "Hot heads" insisted on the climbing: after all, the ancient Greeks here went with their feet. "Liberals" were for the bus: after all, we are not ancient Greeks. Luxury lovers insisted on a taxi: after all, among us – women!
"Hot heads", As it became clear later – unfortunately, we won, and we moved to the acropolis on foot. Do not repeat this anabasis, especially in summer, at the Athenian heat degrees at 35 Celsius. We moved to the top of the hill with the Temple of Aphrodites for 45 minutes, and maybe a whole hour. All together we lost 15 moisture liters. On the top we, puff, another quarter of an hour was disappeared by water before appreciating the temple itself and all the splendor of the species that opened in front of us: Athens stood in the usual clouding haze from soaring heat and smog. As it turned out, it is quite difficult to see the topography of Athens from the height of Parfenon. And look at there is something: this ancient city is akin to all Greece.
Greek myths argue that the gods managed to overcome the limitless chaos and create an ordered world. But I personally think that now the Gods-Olympians are in complete bewilderment look at the mortal land and doubt that "chief designer" It turned out exactly what he thought. It seems that he fully laid out, intricately cutting out the lace of the Greek coast, so everything else is dozens of thousands of islands, islets and islanders – just scattered around the seas, like peas. It seems incredible that the Greeks themselves on their ships, boats, yachts and boats may find in this "Island Suma" exactly what you need. In any case, for the last couple of thousand years here, except Odyssey, no one worked. Perhaps the Greeks during this time learned to lay the course through their seas. But most likely the fact is that naive penels have long been translated. And modern Greeks can not only be loyal and devotees, but also hot-tempered and angry, and affectionate "I’m stuck for seven years on the island of Gozo, enchanted by Nymph Calypso" They do not pass. And hell to their stasins and georgios they can arrange at all mythical, but quite real.
Greece inevitably pulls the traveler in history, draws to the romance of his tangled myths, revives long-fable heroes of the ancient Olympus. And not that she was amazing good. There is no: in the summer heat, sush, in many areas the same indisposedness and neglence, as in some Sukhumi. But this is a country that is worth knowing it from the inside.
If you want to fool on tourist buses with guides, you will not understand her real charm. Go to independent travels, more often walk on dusty trails and ancient stones. So it will be easier for you to comprehend not only the legends and myths of ancient Greece, but also the life of Greece is modern.
Greece, as if softer to put it in order not to offend the Greeks, this is not exactly what it takes it from afar. Those who have happened here can be divided into two groups. The first believe that in addition to the Acropolis, Parfenon, the National Museum and a few archaeological outlook, there is nothing to look at. The second believe that the first simply brings to open eyes to real Greece, which is good in itself, and not only as ancient scenery. Some bays and beaches are worth it. There is, though, also the third opinion – the Greeks themselves. For example, the Athenians believe that it is martyred to live in the capital of flour, only neurasthenics can ride along its streets and insane. And the acropolis they ate – in how! But these, of course, they say either in strong passability, or with a solid fraction of the lucavia, because the city is loved by. And do not think to agree with the aborigines that in the summer here and really baked, the movement is disgusting and watching, except for the acropolis, nothing. Saying this way, you will become the main enemy for the Greeks. Saying that Athens is super, you will become here.
Athens is really not Paris, not London and not Vienna. Here you will not find extensive areas that have been preserved unchanged for the last few hundred years. Except for shocks and anafiotics. Compared to other European capitals, Athens are very and very young. And what to expect from the city, which until the end of the XIX century, though he was listed the capital, but, in general, was a big village? Invalid Europe considered Athens in the cold until the post-war years.
All the salt of dating with Greece is that if you want to stay architectural and archaeological aestheter or willing to open your eyes and the heart towards this ancient country. Do not look for indispensable antiquity. In cities built up with skyscrapers and apartment buildings "Policati masses", You can find and beaten as much as here who has fallen an old church in the Byzantine style, and a cute old house, and a wonderful Greek tavern. You can go beyond the city (as much as a taxi here is still the cheapest in Europe!), wander around the seashore or get to colorful Greek villages, where the old way is intricately mixed with modernity.
Well, and lovers "flea markets" can go to Monastiraki. There is the largest, most noisy, stupid, colorful, bungling, thievish, chaotic, incomprehensible "swap meet". This is the same Greece, in which there is everything. Here you can offer even a piece of parfenon or a vase of the time of Odyssey. Just need to remember: when it comes to trade, the Greeks can shut up for any belt! Compared to them all together torn rogues of trade points of Europe and the Middle East are just children. But certainly traveled. And the price will slow five to six. However, this does not mean that you buy antiques, and not craft.
And what in Greece should be completely given – it is a meal. Greeks love to eat. And not just eat, but eat very tasty. I advise you to rush to the local restaurant sea. Here everyone is experiencing culinary inspiration and evolve as Gourmet. First, you are spent on the table (from May to October, usually on the street), and then we will behave, about the Gods of Olympus, right to the kitchen and there, among the couple of charming smelling pots, pots, pans, grill grilles: "TEM and not Affto?", What just means: "What you wish?" Wish what you like will like. Specify on this with your finger, and in a few minutes it will be on your desk. To the honor of the Greeks, it is necessary to admit that nothing of the row of outgoing, the manner of a suffocating-burning mexican cuisine is not here, although there are enough sharp. About Suvlaki and Dolmatos know probably all. The first is the likeness of small kebabs, the second – dollars (micro-heads in grape leaves). Tasty, but you can enjoy both at home. Greeks have something better. To begin with, order a sadziki – this is a sauce from kefir, cucumbers, greenery and garlic. And, of course, olives. Their varieties – hundreds. Next follows the famous tyoro salad – from cheese and vegetables. Then you can move to the stifeado – this is something like a stew with eggplants, tomatoes, onions and cuneleli (rabbit), Arni (lamb) or octopite (octopus).
And if you are a vegetarian, then order all possible and impossible dishes from pea, beans, eggplant, zucchini, cabbage, olive, spinach. Greeks know about vegetables all. Just say: "I want Vegetarian’s". And you will understand.
The most correct will be pounce on the freshest fish and the gifts of the sea. That’s really the best in Greece! Here and greek som "Supiy", and "Bakaliaro" – Fresh Cod, and "Sarddeles" – Sardines, and mussels, and sea scallops, and sea cucumbers, and other mollusks. Prepare them in different ways and in different combinations, but there is no tasteless.
However, the restaurant kitchen is still not exactly what they eat in Greece. Rail kilometers at least 30-50 from the capital, in a small town or village, look a little eternally unshaven, in the pickerels of old men, siping the UZO or wine on the tables at the rural tavern, and boldly go there. In the tavern you will be met as an old friend, and it does not matter that neither you nor the owners know no foreign language. Just tell me "Heritism" ("Hello") and "Paracal" ("thanks"), and you will be accepted with open arms. And if you find out that you are Russian, success will be provided. Once who, who, and the Greeks still remember that Russia saved them from Turkish yoke. And you will be fed up with real Greek food, and three times lower in price than in the restaurant.
Well, for those who have greatly went over "Greek vacation", Tip Being "Antique": Boldly go to any tavern. Just do not be surprised that here already at five in the morning are full of people. In the taverns with the subway or pate. This is a variety of hasha, only with plenty of meat. The therapeutic effect is crushing: puts on the feet of any walk.