Iran’s impressions

… now about how in Iran accepted to dress. All women need to observe hijab. So called the "Islamic form of clothes". At the same time, all parts of the body are closed, except for the face, hands and feet brushes. Too bright and tight clothing is non-disabilities. Bijouterie and makeup are not prohibited, and Iranci is painted a lot of brighter Europe. Chadra today is obligatory only when visiting mosques and sacred for Muslims Mausoleums. In everyday life, light and stylish galactors with belt, which Iranians call "Manto". Wear them with pants, sketching on the head shawl. In government agencies, banks and other official institutions, employees are obliged to wear if not by Chadru, then McNaEE – most similar to the traditional headdress of nuns. The face is open, but the neck and hair is reliably hidden from prying eyes.

Chadra – only one of the numerous "national" forms of clothing. For example, in the Kurdish provinces, the costumes are also very original and cute, although not too "Islamic". I was told that in the villages, and the towns that away from the center, the CHADRU is practically not worn. In big cities, another thing.. Yes, it’s just comfortable – I took, threw and went. By the way, Chadra perfectly hides flashes of figures. But "threw and went" – this is if you have been involved in nine years old. My first attempt almost ended with a broken forehead, because he clinged for the hem. And hands are busy – otherwise you will hold this curtain without fasteners? Other local residents, if necessary, to free the hands easily and easily hold the chad … teeth (that is, the corners of the mouth – after all, a rag closes the whole head and cheeks). Advanced tehranki on such people look with light contempt – "Country", they say.

What is me all about women? I personally especially pleased that some "clothing" prohibitions in Iran have and with respect to men. Say, you can not wear shorts (a man’s legs should be closed to the knee, and better – and below), everyone goes in pants.

With the Manto – the worker coat of the Budenny factory – everything is more complicated than it seems at first glance. Those that I saw were about one cut and monophonic.. True, most women walk in black. It’s not even in tradition. Wearing this thing on the naked body even more or less and in forty degrees. It is even useful. I am in the middle of autumn (!) I managed to burn my face in Isfahan, and if I had a T-shirt with shorts? However, the fabric is quite thin and, when it is bright, some attentive "guard of revolution" may well consider something wrong. That is, you want to walk in white – I approach something else and quietly.

Regarding the "closedness" of the female body, I really explained to me in Tehran’s student Medvoz: "Women in Europe – Idiotes! Say honestly, how much do you have impotents? And prostatitis flourishes? And we have no. Generally! And what do you want? You have men constantly in tension. Our female bodies do not see, but when it is necessary – everything works fine!".

Segregation in Iranian society was prescribed by law.

Sexual relationships out of marriage are prosecuted, and quite recently strictly punished – right up to a long imprisonment. A few years ago, the young man was enough to sit next to the girl on the bench – and if the local police do not like the expression of his face, trouble is provided. Today, the situation is different, and nothing threatens to foreigners.

For more serious crimes – respectively, more serious punishments. True, clogging with stones, like some other, truly medieval karas have long been officially canceled. The last victim became a certain Madame, shot in Tehran porn movies in the lead role. No, so that the poor thing will break somewhere in Hollywood.

According to the law, if the husbandhood will be proved (for this requires at least three witnesses men), both partners are waiting for the highest penalty. Persian lesbians include "indulgent": for the first time or re-appeared in the "crime" is beaten by a whip. If it is not impressive, then for the third time the death penalty cannot be avoided.

However, times are changing, and in the practice of court cases relating to homosexuality, it is considered extremely few. At the same time, the same-sex love, no matter how deceived its society and the law, inevitably flourishes on the basis of strict sexual segregation. During a walk through the forest, at the resort from the Caspian Sea, we somehow met a couple of boys, hugging and kissing each other without hiding. They had nothing to be afraid: the police were not observed nearby, and only couples looked in the losses – to flirt with each other (that is, to commit a crime too).

Men’s half separated from female metal handrail. Metropase trains in Tehran mixed, but two of them are allocated exclusively for women who do not want to be in close room with unfamiliar men.

We are rainy in the evening with Fatima (my husband’s mother), we are waiting for the mosque. The crowd at the stop was divided into two queues: men in front, women behind. But it’s not enough: a non-radical drove drove too much a car back – and the front door was opposite the women’s Sher. Meanwhile, small rains turned into a real shower. And the ladies decided to storm the bus without regrouping. The people rushed forward, we, not lagging behind, follow. Iranki, observing the rules, immediately headed in the tail. Alas, from the front part he was drizzled: the handrail was made by the painter, so simply not to climb, but passengers cheerfully leaseed through it.

I just ponded how it was better to overcome the barrier: it is possible to spite from the bottom or jump over, as Fatima approached the back. Woman she is very large-sized – immediately it became clear that for her the only way to go to another part – to disperse and carry the barrier. Thinking, we decided not to spoil the state property and sat down in the "male" department. Our experiment followed several other women.
– Now the rain goes, all evil and places are not enough, – explained Fatima.- So the driver’s driver will not say.
With the view of the winners, we drove to the house.

Finally, it is worth noting that in case of violation of the above rules, a foreigner threatens such serious sanctions – because he can always refer to ignorance or misunderstanding of local laws. In the worst case, you will be waiting for a penalty or a requirement to immediately leave the country. However, if you like adventures, you should not engage in adventures of Iran’s citizens, for which everything can end much sadly (up to a long prison). A Russian passport is protected (although the Russian embassy is unlikely to defend the citizen, tested, for example, to carry drugs to Iran), Iranians are powerless in front of their police. For those who go to Iran at the personal invitation of Iranian friends, from the inviting parties may require a receipt that it is fully responsible for the behavior of the guest and compliance with the Islamic laws.

It happened in those distant times when I had to be not my wife behruz, but the bride. At five in the morning we went to the airport – to accompany my friend to fly to Moscow. Knowing how the Iranian airlines work work, decided to wait at the airport until his plane flies.

Lose vigilance two while still non-native young people in Iran can not. But try not to lose her when the second night in a row sleeps less than three hours. I did not even save coffee, and Behruhru does not use this drink from the principle – as a result of which he managed to fall asleep in a cafe while I crawled with a simple breakfast and enjoyed the view of the snow-covered mountain ranges. It was hot in the cafe, and as a result we went down to the waiting room. Alas! It is in southern cities or in cars carrying from one end of the country to another can be afforded to the liberty, such as hugs, gentle handshakes or, God forbid, kisses sneaking (and with a loaf). And we were in the central airport of Tehran – Mehrabad, where every centimeter browsing cameras. True, did not hug and did not kiss. We just fell asleep – I put my head on my shoulder, he acquired me accordingly. And all. I still tried to open my eyes from time to time and follow my backpack, but it did not help.

They took us warm. How two ladies appeared from under the ground, wrapped in black chader, under which the green police form was hidden. I have studied certificates, and politely informed who we come to each other. I (no, to immediately move aside!) From horror, Becherzu was clung to the shoulder. He brightened that I am his wife. Incorrect. He immediately demanded the documents: and the student card here is not separated here, I had to give a passport. Passport wanted to take and I have – fortunately, following the wise advice, I do not wear it with him in Tehran.

After which there were long and tedious inquire. Having finished off from the police, Behruz went to the airport administrator, in order to demand his passport through it. As it turned out, the passport will only give it if he brings my. Here we realized that they were completely impaired.

Hasively evacuated from the airport, went to consult with dad and mom. Soon it became clear – only a temporary marriage enclosed by rear.

Institute of Temporary Marriage for Muslim Shiites, in Persia has a very bad reputation. Still would! How do you like the conclusion of marriage for a period of several hours or months to 99 years? When the term expires in "contract" expires, the spouses are automatically considered divorced. Of course, if they did not extend their marriage or not transferred to the rank of permanent. Temporary marriage requires much less formalities than permanent. His supporters claim: such a marriage is intended to protect the rights of women (if it is possible to prove that the child was conceived during a temporary marriage, a man is recognized as responsible for him). Opponents are called legalized prostitution. Most Iranians adhere to the last point of view – but in our desperate position all means are good.

Fortunately, Hossein (Father Behruza) found a familiar Mullah, agreed to arrange all the formalities in two hours. Naturally, for some MZD. In the morning, early I went to the papin shop – to meet with Mullah.

I have fun with a pretty bearded uncle in a black shirt, sitting on my right hand from dad, and began to look back in search of the promised minister of Allah. But then the uncle got up and hoisted on the head of the White Turban. Black shirt, with a closer look, turned out to be a long hoodyon, to which uncle on the street was kidding something like a dark translucent shawl. And look. How I did not immediately notice? Sweet, Already cerebral – like, however, and intonation.

We did not have time to squeeze into a taxi to drive into a notarial office, as a couple of pretty girls in the next car began to build our muulle eyes and let go of jokes. It’s they have a common sport – "tease Mullau". But our muulla did not give Mahu – and while the taxi unfolded, managed to dictate their mobile girls. After which the newest Mobilnik came from his pocket with two fingers, which immediately rang. While Comrade was discussed with the girl you like where and how they are better to meet, Behi pushed me elbow in the side:
– You do not speak Farsi!
– And what? I thought he was friend.
– Well, please, then you say thanks then. Foreigner, understanding at least something, he will be shy. And so – you will see our "Akhund" in all its glory!

Beha, as always, turned out to be right. Having understood with the girls, uncle stuck to the "newlywed" Behi, letting the ears are sluggish even with me, which "reached" no more than ten percent of the conversation. At one time, they led at home at my family long "religious" disputes – and now the cut clearly intended to take revenge. In a notarial office, all came in a raised mood – and, leaving a taxi driver to mock on the Tehran rain, went together to devote me to Islam.

Iran's impressions

Touching your teeth (after all, not every day we take a new religion) and remembly correcting the handkerchief, which I did not want to keep on my head, I entered the office to the notary – which turned out to be a pretty smiling Iranka, who immediately began to go over with our Mullah. They exchanged replicas so intensely and with such gentle intonations that I could not withstand, pulled Behi for the sleeve:
– This is his mistress?

– Well, why immediately mistress? This is his wife – they have a temporary marriage with her. He also has another, with her marriage permanent. But they have problems – they want to divorce, then he will make a permanent marriage with this.
– In the meantime, it means that lives with two?
– This is temporal.

To live with two wives, from the point of view of the Iranian morality, the most important violation of public obscures (let the law approve the opposite). With "polygamy" decent people do not communicate at all. In the big cities there are practically no, there are more in the villages – but also there they enjoy a bad reputation.

While smiling aunt prepared the documents and tried to find out if I could write a few words on Farsi, Mullah snapped the rosary and continued to joke. But suddenly I felt: I was time to say Shakhada. A small zamanka came out with Shahad – I didn’t know her, I didn’t know her, and Behruz wrote me arabic text in Latin letters on a piece of paper. I tried two minutes to find out from Behi, is it possible to just read the necessary words on a piece of paper or you need to speak by heart – just this time Mullah mumbled very much and went out.

But here I said "calmly", a picture gesture removed a piece of pocket and read the spell to open the gates of Paradise to me:
"ASH-HADO Anna La Elaaha Ella Allah
ASH-HADO ANNA MOHAMMADAN RASOOL OL ALL ALLAH
ASH-HADO ANNA ALI ON VALI OL LAH "

In short, "I believe that there is no God besides Allah, I believe that Mohammad is the prophet of Allah, and I believe that Ali is the representative of Allah". Phrase about Ali, characteristic, naturally only for shisming – so I am now also Shiite.

By the way, no one asked me to repeat the text three times as I expected. Apparently, from foreigners and one enough.

After that, I was chosen to "Muslim" name – Paris. Then I signed a bunch of a wide variety of papers – well, not blood, and then I would not have enough blood simply. After that with all the documents (in which it was stated that Islam I took almost on the day of my arrival in Iran), we went to the local registry office (fortunately, without Mullah).

The office was a bit of the people – but we were served immediately and on the first class. Smiling uncle even tried to speak English with me, after which it began to fill out the convicts (in the course of transferred my name and surname) and put pictures there.

Marriage was decided to conclude for three years – this is a deadline after which I firmly count on Bekhi to Russia. It remained to resolve the issue with mehrom – that is, with the "remuneration", which the future husband is obliged to pay me for living together, or if he wants to apply for a divorce. I said that with me enough one of the Koran (he led to all the girls) and 14 gold coins (translated into normal money – about 1,500 dollars) – this is the minimum "cash" mehre.

Persian wedding ceremony looks simple: Uncle Quickly quickly Taldychits something in Arabic, then on Farsi – and after a certain phrase of the bride and the bride must say their test "yes". When it is necessary to do this, Behruz didn’t really explain. As a result, I am my "ball! Bale!"Bared, as soon as a convenient case was introduced. After that, Uncle looked at me somehow strange, and the people sitting in the office sharply caught. However, the case was done – and only setting up with a dozen paintings in different parts of the document, I was able to inform the legitimate spouse about the reason for the total fun:
– EEE. Well, you know. According to the tradition of the bride, to which they are treated with such a question, must first refuse, express their displeasure. And only for the third time to answer what I agree. And you screamed "yes" on the whole office.
– Not a fig to yourself! I married here came to go out or a cat per tail pull? You would have warned.

Everything flows, everything changes. "Board" of the president of the Hatami (who, however, could not fulfill the most part of his promises of young people) made it possible to remove some restrictions, made the country more open – and therefore, he opened the way to great freedom.

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