Ireland: two shores

Once upon a time having been in the conge, many are returned here again. And not only salmon from fishery Matt Warley. But also real celebrities. Chief Hollywood Cowboy John Wayne once starred here. Following Wayne visited the cong and his son. Pierce Brosnan played a wedding here. And Rock musician Eric Clapton still loves to fish on Loch Corrib Lake. And, of course, guests of the Negotic castle of Ashford, has long been turned into a luxury hotel. They fall in love with the unique species opening on the lake from its high windows.

First, I was led to Kong curiosity. I wanted to look – what is this Irish place with the African name? Then I arrived because for the first time I did not have enough time for Loch Corrib, the second largest lake in Ireland. I could not count anyone how many islands in it. Detached at 365. No less than fish, the lake is famous for its fishermen. For many, a sufficient reason to ride in the Kong – the opportunity, albeit very ephemeral, to see Eric Clapton in a wide-headed hat and stovered horny glasses sitting in a boat with a fishing rod, so to speak, unplugged.

Well, I came to see Matt Warley, with whom I met last time. According to the business card "Salmon Farm Manager of the Council of Fishing Western Region". So many words he himself is hardly able to pronounce over day. More than a boy, Matt often looked at the fish farm at the old mill. Silently watched as a fish chit in the cages. He would earn a nickname a quiet person if it had no longer belonged to John Wayne, who in 1952, together with the actress Mauren O’Hara played in the movie of John Ford. For the director, this tape is the story of the boxer who returned from America to his homeland to Ireland – also became a kind of return: his ancestors lived on a green island. In the US, the Oscarone ribbon is still twisted on TV a day. Patrick.

Many in the cong will remember the whole scene from this sentimental drama, shot on the Colored Film of the Technicolor era. Every year ago, the film was filmed, I visited Morin O’Hara. The aged star stopped in the family board of Warley. In the dining room now hanging her photo – in memory of the visit.

A trip by congu with Matt usually passes in full silence. But if in the car of his daughter Olivia and Emma, ​​the journey is immediately filled with details. It turns out that a woman at a small house opposite the ruins of abbey is their grandmother, Matt’s mother, and the man with whom she talks to – his brother. Matt gives girls at no less attention than her salmon farm. HAVE them on horse riding lessons and Gaelle football. And now they go through the Park of the castle of Ashford to the mullet: Matt is going to induce with daughters on the gloss.

We sit on the shore, the boat sails by, and in it – a man in horny glasses and a hat. Is Eric Clappton?! Pleasure boat tharachtitis by, heading to one of the picturesque islands. From the deck there is music, and with her a low male voice. "This is Stephen Murphy, "says Emma. – He always sings – and in the pub, and in her kitchen". Ten-year-old Olivia shines from happiness: she won the whole three flashes. Tin fish is even better than living, the girl believes, especially since one of them is long ago drowned in this very place. In the conga, even the bait returns!

On the way back, Warli unexpectedly plunges into philosophical reflections. "You escape their caviar, growing fry, release young, and when they come back from the Atlantic, you see what everything did right". On the bridge in front of the lock, the opposite car slows down, the woman behind the wheel lowers the glass. This is one of Matt’s sisters, she rides a castle – Sit down with children from guests. At the pier’s wedding, she was honored to look after his offspring. James Bond performer often comes here. But if, walking around the congu, you will see a dark-haired man without horny glasses and hats, which walks on the packers from the mill to round concrete pools – Do not rejoice ahead of time. No it is a celebrity, but most likely our Starina Warley.

Church Hill: Service "all inclusive"

Church Hill, "Church hill", really stands on the hill. And the church in it is. Although in fact this place in the county Donegal was to be called Pub Hill, in honor of the three pubs on the main street. One – near the post office, one on the way to Glenway National Park and one on petrol stations. McClafferty’s not only poured into gasoline tank and shopping. In the bar when refueling, you can get safely to get drunk at least to hell – Charlie, younger McClafferti, all grasped. He inherited from the Father not only a gas station, but also a funeral office. There are also zooferma. So worries enough. It happens that Charlie one and the same day helps to enroll the cow and escorts the old man in the last path. And if you spent the previous night before two hours behind the bar, and then waved with friends to the next town of Letterkenny.

In such cases, the brazers of the Board are moving to the aunt Sally. She knows what to do. All my life, how much Sally remembers myself, she in the morning until the evening stands behind the store store. This Woman – the Equipment Center. Obtained information it strictly dosed transfers to those who concerns. If residents of Church Hill have questions, they know who to contact: "Aunt Sally, today there will be a bus in Litterkenny? You do not know, electricity has all disconnected or only on our street?" Family business like Sally for two reasons: "I know everyone here, and people know me". No wonder that in 60 years she has achieved such popularity. Me, "writer", Sally sends for a holiday at the pond: "It looks like it’s just what you are looking for". The holiday was arranged in honor of farmers, who were 150 years ago, he was driven from their lands in the Derriva Mountains England-Zemlevaler. May Makllinklok – local history, an active protector of the environment and the interests of the elderly – many years carefully collected information about the expelled and sent the missing fragments of the family history of their descendants throughout the world. Memorial stone in memory of the long-standing tragedy – her merit. Among the guests tanned, elegant Australian Suzy. She lives on the coast near Melbourne. Having learned from where her family comes from, Suzy called her little farm on the other side of the earth "Derrya". The fate of many Irish – to live away from their homeland.

After the ceremony, held under a torrential rain, the whole society went to bask in the eatery of McClafferty’s, where we were treated with sweet cakes. Charlie – just from the soul, with wet hair – stands on the evening shift. His mother with a constant cigarette in his mouth distinguishes drinks in the bar, and Aunt Sally commands in the store. The freezer rises a cake with a TV size – Church Hill Church from marzipan and cream. This is the main prize in the lottery, which was arranged in favor of the dilapidated temple. The church will repair the money collected, and she herself will become similar to the cake.

I go out to smash my legs. Near the warehouse, the tractor Charlie was attached. Battery of empty boxes from under beer can see a new coffin. Having come to themselves from surprise, I think: "That’s great, nothing needs to take care – full service".

Young McClafferty assured me that neither for him nor for the picturesque local cemetery over the lake does not matter to which denomination the dead man belongs. Catholic, Protestant, Buddhist – What is the difference? And it’s better not to find a place, view from here beautiful. And I accept the decision: Before you go to the world, I will definitely return here in order to finally throw a pair of words with the owner of the gas station, bartender and funeral affairs master in one person. I hope he will be able to give me a little time.

Dublin: City with all stops

DART is a reduction from Dublin Area Rapid Transit, Dublin Regional Express Express. Contrary to the title, this train does not fly at the dart speed, as in the game Darts, and moves very slowly. Wagons are painted in calm yellow, green and olive tones – apparently not to cause associations with super-speed. We’re Getting There, "We will get to the goal" – So, not that with the promising, not the apoloching intonation sounds the slogan of the IARNROD EIREANN transport company – this, at first glance, Abrakadabra, if they pronounce it with due degree of relaxation, it is easy to decipher as Irish Railroad – "Irish Railways".

DART system is easy to genius. The line of ways to a wide arc repeats the outlines of the Dublin Bay – from the port of Hough through the city center to the wild and beautiful beaches of Dalkay. On weekdays, residents of suburbs, in the summer and on weekends are sent at the Pierce Station Pierce Station. Martin O’Kerroll, duty officer and voluntary manager comes to the rescue. It has been working on Dart for half a century.

If it were not for a loudspeaker, I would love to chat with O’Kerroll a little longer: "In connection with construction work between stations "Such something" and "Such something", Train to Houd. krshsh. " – nothing else can be dispersed. O’Kerroll rises eyes and spends his hand in gray mustache. The point and the case fit the passengers to which he patiently explains the meaning of the announcement: if you north, you have to wait.

Station Pierce So for the city more than you can assume, judging by the relatively small dimensions of the station: there are administrative, business, university districts of the city and new quarters in the style of Hi-Tech.

Near the station almost the same magnitude of the church of St. Andrei. But O’Kerroll goes to Messe to another, near the house in the outskirts of the Culkin: "A little religion will hurt anyone". On the other side of the street – the gray monolith of Trinity College, which James Joyce got out of time "The stronghold of urban ignorance". This university was founded by the British Queen Elizabeth I. Catholics for a long time was prohibited here to learn and teach. From the middle of the XIX century, after a great potato hunger (1845-1849.) began to grow resistance to the oppression of the British.

An important event on the path to independence of Ireland was the Easter uprising of 1916. He was quickly suppressed, the leaders – Patrick Pierce and James Connole – was not widely supported in the people. But the penalty made both heroes, and Dublin railway stations are now called: Connoli and Pierce Station.

O’Kerroll leans and raises a piece of paper. "We, Irish, are terrible dirty", – He says. True, the station proves the opposite. Someone even hang pots with geranium. O’Kerroll, as he emphasizes especially, specifically planted her in hours. He throws a piece of paper into the tank. Asked whether I had to go to the rollers, and when I negatively shake my head, it admits that he himself just originally from this little Italy on the banks of the Cold Irish Sea.

By train to a little 20 minutes 20. There, in southeast Dublin, there is Sorrento Road Street. Her houses wear beautiful names like "Villa Borghese". The coastline in this place is even a little resembles the bending of the Naples Bay. In childhood, Bernard Shaw spent here summer holidays here. And in our time people art follow his example. Ministers are now declared part of the cultural heritage of Ireland.

We ourselves in Dublin Perrone, but O’Carroll is gaining momentum – tells how the tram has ever been going to. Then they lived poorly, there was a lot of illiterate, the tram route did not even have the numbers – it was just "Clover line". Clover – Symbol of Ireland. According to the legend, the baptist of this land is. Patrick, taking a leaf of clover, tried to the Irish, what is the Holy Trinity. Again from the loudspeaker comes the vague rice. The next passenger asks what they announced there. O’Kerroll answers him and returns to his beloved debt. In good weather from Kilini Hill, even England is visible! "It would be worth going to go". Be sure to go. Tomorrow. In the meantime, I have another question for Martin O’Cerroll: "So where to me, damn, still make a transplant to get to Hough?"

Belfast: find the essence of the problem

Belfast flourishing fell on the times of the industrial revolution. The city grew up, the population doubled every ten years. Smoked pipes of factories, weaving factories issued kilometers of flax, John Boyd Dunlop invented pneumatic tires, and from the shipyards of shipyards "Harland End Volform" In 1911 heavily gigantic "Titanic".

During World War II, Northern Ireland took part in hostilities as part of Great Britain. Belfast even then, in 1941, suffered severely from bombs, who dumped Luftwaffe planes. And in peacetime, the city was shaking the IRA terrorist attacks.

Ireland two shores

But today in Belfast you can meet people who have never had a whistle bullets. Maurice Villerling from Hamburg is held here alternative service. He sees the consequences of the Civil War every day. Catholic and Protestant districts of Belfast are controlled by armed groups who perepay the justice to their manner. If the criminal is evited – most often this minor car hijackers, Joyriders, "Lovers ride" – Are planted on the spot: the knee-bang. It is here in the order of things, it is no coincidence that local surgeons are considered the world’s best specialists in gunshot wounds.

In a quacker-cottage, a white building on a hill in the western part of the city, help those who have to be harder to children and teenagers. There is a handful of therapists, social psychologists and young volunteers from all over the world. Maurice says their task – to help children gain self-confidence, learn to enjoy life. In groups, children with different religions – in "Normal" Northern Ireland conditions it would be impossible.

Why quaker cottage? Neither volunteers nor permanent employees, including the head of Mr. Grant, working here for 20 years, does not belong to the religious society of quackers. But reputation – "Brand" – works. Founded in the middle of the XVII century Society of Friends, "Society of friends" preaching the presence of good starts in each person. Quakers reject military service, so their white minibuses with a red inscription on the side freely pass into the Catholic, and Protestant districts.

Or almost unhindered. Several times Mauris blocked the road ten-twelve warriors, guarding barricades. True, with rude violence, he did not come across: no opponents resort to him only in the struggle with each other. Or with policemen. Or with your loved ones. When Anne’s Quaker Cottage employee at the meeting talks about violence in families with which she works, her voice begins to tremble. Ann Crist. Distrust, hate, violence here have become everyday life. At seven years old boys are already making making bombs! Where to take a feeling of stability and self-confidence, if many families live on a miserable benefit?

Mauris Villergling 21 years. Clumsy, with big eyes, on the head Dreaded. He himself looks like a ferry boy. The guy was very seriously prepared for Belfast. But to understand what is happening here, it is not easy for the North Irish themselves. Making Sense of The Troubles, "Find the essence of the problem" – The book reads Maurice. It tells about the history of confrontation. The book was published in 2000, 30 years later after the appearance of these very problems. It’s good that there is a saving shelter on the edge of the city, on a draw.

We are going towards downpatrick, we arrange a picnic in the ruins of the castle of dons. Under the age trees, Maurice plays with children. These places are considered the cradle of Irish Christianity – on the legend of St. Patrick began to preach exactly here. Looking at a serene Irish landscape seems to be all "Problems" retreat.

Greencasl: Small running through the border

Politics – an ungrateful occupation, you will not work out as follows. In order to pave the path along the mine field, you need a convenient moment and a solid, who knows what he wants. In Greencasle, there is such a thing – Jim McClenhalan. According to his posture and energetic chin, it is immediately seen that he will always achieve.

The thought of the ferry has long flashed in the head of McClenhankhan. Not the last role played a view from the window of his living room. Jim – the owner of one of the villas on the slope that his appearance modestly hints at the fact that in spite of all quotas and moans on their occasion, there are no local fishermen in the networks, and there is a goldfish. Of the large windows of McClenhankhan, the entire nine-minute pontoon ferry route is perfectly traced – from the fishing harbor of Greencasla to a lonely mall on the beach, where the stubborn British put a born gearbox for the arriving machines.

Now everything is accustomed to the ferry. And in 2002, the opening of the ferry report between Greencasl on the Inishoung peninsula (Irish Republic) and Magilligan in the Northerland County of Limavadi became a real sensation. Crossing through the bay of Loch Foil before. Then the political situation worsened – and only incredulous views in the field binoculars crossed the bay.

The view from the windows of McClenhana is overlooked amazing, even if you cut off from his ambitious commercial projects. Behind the pier (as well as for a military polygon and a strict regime prison) a mountain of a flat vertex rises. Majestic and beautiful, Northern Ireland far from politics, army raids and cruel personnel in news releases. The coast of Antrim is worth going to Ireland.

McClenhalan – from those bosses, which if that they themselves can eliminate, or at least one in the blue overalls with a business view, watching how workers load, repair or pour fuel. He knows how to delegate the powers and distribute tasks. He likes to watch how the guys work. He knows that he can rely on them – how – in no way twenty years went to the sea together. And some generally his relatives. The son-in-law is controlled by ferry. One of the aunt trades tickets in the former booth "Fish end chips". On the showcase, the advertising booklets about the county of Limavad and the beaches of Northern Ireland, the most extended on the island, are laid out onto the shop window. Since it began to go to the ferry, in pubs and restaurants Greencasla are full of people. Kealys fish restaurant, where the leader of the Catholic community of Northern Ireland and the Laureate of the Nobel Prize of the World of 1998, John Hume loves to invite its guests-politicians, is closed now only on Mondays. Tourists crowded to the Women’s Museum. On the main street Greencasla often formed automobile traffic jams.

Ferry passengers pay euro and pounds, so McClenhan has to ride "on the other" for exchange. I sit in his rusted truck, the dog Jim is attached between us. On the way to Bank McClenhalan says that earlier there was a real apartheid, just no one decided to call things with their names. What will happen next? Prison, probably clog. At the landfill you can arrange a golf course. McClenhalan firmly believes that steam would not be able to start, do not be peaceful agreement of 1998. And now the brochure was released, in which the county of Limavadi (Northern Ireland) and Litterkenny (Irish Republic) is told directly on the neighboring pages. Recently, this and imagined it was impossible.

McClenhahan’s optimism infection. And his stubbornness – too. He knows that people rejoice in his success and swimming together on the shoulder, because the ferry is a symbol of restoration of the former unity of the country. But if his enterprise does not give profit, the bank will refuse to loan. Jim is not afraid. Things are so good that he even gathered to buy another ferry.

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