Ireland, where it always rains

The expansion of Irish culture to the world throughout the last century caused admiration and sometimes even light fright. For example, when you understand that in some kind of corner of Europe and America, you wanted to drink coffee, the music will certainly sound the music of any "cult" Irish: U2, ENIA, Clannad, Westlife, The Corrs. no matter. And writers, poets! A "Elf" Mythology that has breeding a whole literary direction. In general, Irish – everywhere. It’s time to think: why it turns out!

Let us continue the list of achievements. The number of Irish, in whose hands came Nobel Prizes, outrageously Veliko: Bernard Shaw, William Butler Yeats, Samuel Beckett, Sheimas Hini.

And yet: remember the most popular portrait of Ernesto Che Guevara – the one where he is an Afas and in a star? And you know that it was created by the famous Irish schedule Jim Fitzpatrick? Moreover, the father of the famous hero of Latin America wore the name Guevara Lynch, and the grandmother Che was a native of the green island.

From high – to domestic: Another obvious sign of fashion for all Irish remains abundance worldwide "thematic" Bars with characteristic names: Shamrock, Murphy’s or just The Irish Bar. There are poured "Guinness", sometimes not even diluted (although, as my many years of experience shows, the farther from Ireland, the worse the beer from there), the fun walk on St. Patrick’s Day, and sometimes the locals, some Russians or Finns play there "Rile" and "Djigi" on the tools available to them. Moreover, with an enthusiasts, affecting the Irish themselves ..

In addition, as everyone knows, in Ireland there are emerald hills, steep cliffs over the sea, good race horses, girls with red hair and snow-white leather, the temples of triple distillation, national stew, elves and leprechauns, and from under the pen of Irish jams jams Joyce came out an incredibly complex book "Ulide", which nobody read, and if I read, then it’s often shy about it to admit. In short, the country is magical.

Eastern eclectica

Let’s start with the most important, from her capital. Actually, Dublin is not an original Irish city, but the Viking settlement of the X century. By the way, in Irish, he is called completely different – Baile Atha Cliah ("Place in Brod, overgrown with a vine"). And immediately let a little retreat.

Irish, or Gaelsky, the language belonging to the Celtic group, contrary to the fairly common misconception, absolutely not like English and relatives to him as remotely as, say, Russian.

The idea of ​​how about it sounds, you can get from modern books of fashion genre "Fantasy", which are usually based on Celtic material. By the way, the fans of this genre are traditionally a lot among students of Moscow University, where I happened to teach. Each autumn at the Faculty of Philology, girls and young men come with a burning gaze and declare: "We want to teach Irish, because we love fantasy and would like to do the magic of Druids". Speak directly. True, after the first lesson, which explains the basic rules of grammar, such citizens usually disappear somewhere (perhaps they are sent to druids), and only those who are ready to fight with difficult Celtic language logic remain.

In Ireland itself, only individual areas, the so-called speak in Gaelsk "Galtty" (Gaeltachta). Although a lot of money and labor is investing in the revival of the native speech, the picture is still insane. Of course, in English-speaking cities, there are courses all year round and there are schools, where all the teaching is conducted in Irish, there are special channels of television, and in the summer there are wishing to practice in Gaulettes. However, this learned "artificially" Language often causes frank pity – there are inevitably there are a lot of borrowing from English, and phrases and at all "Calcated". I’m not talking about road signs and signs with street names that are sometimes found truly monstrous writing from the point of view of Irish spelling.

Dublin cut the two rivers – Liffi and dodder – and two channels. The central artery is considered to be LIFFI, crossing the entire city, which is thus divided into the north and southern sides. How it is found in traditional societies, residents of opposing shores dislike each other. However, they all look at the inhabitants of fashionable quarters located near the sea bay.

In terms of architecture, the capital, perhaps, can not boast anything outstanding. Imagination is capable of weighing the embankment of the elephant, where the bridges from the bottom are highlighted with green lights, legal complex "Four ships" (Four Courts), Extensive Park of St. Stephen … And, perhaps, all. But this is only outside, while the secret Irish genius space hides usually deeply behind the facades. For example, in the oldest university of the city – Trinity College. It was still founded by Elizabeth I in the XVI century, and then its territory, now located in the heart of Dublin, went far beyond the fortress walls – from here the official name, which lived to the present day: "College of Saint and indivisible Trinity under Grad Dublin". But the most funny historical trail is found in the library: signing documents, employees and students "undertake and oblige the heirs and relatives of their" Pay a certain number of Gynes, happened to them to lose one of the priceless books. Ginea, by the way, stopped walking immediately after Napoleonic wars.

Sakura bloom over the walls of college all year round, students are lying with books on lawns, a professor in mantles and wigs runs on solemn days and gentlely stealing red-haired girls in dies (stones whose stones, according to legend, are deliberately delivered vertically to teach passers , eliminates heels).

But idyllic picture from "Long past days" observed only at the light of the day, and in the evening the entourage becomes the most that there is no modern. University Pubs – the same inalienable attribute of Irish culture, as, say, a ball tradition in Austria. Just not as an example more lively. Every weekend (and often in the middle of the week) islanders are spread by crowds in the bars to meet friends, sit quietly for the newspaper, pick up a guy or, respectively, a girl or just quickly get drunk. Last year after the introduction of a total ban on smoking in public places "Pubnaya" Culture has also been enriched with panoramas of smokers at the entrance, lonely sprinkling from the rain under the visor.

Running through several institutions in a row, some visitors continue fun in a nightclub, others – go home. As a rule, on persons leaving the bar can easily guess what their plans are ..

I, like a Muscovite, most affect the evening fashion of Irish cities. Irish for some reason believe that they are from nature white skin – it is ugly and wrong. Therefore, they are hard all year round "Water" yourself with an artificial tan, and before going to the bar – add a double portion "potion". Also they love to smooth out long curly hair special "Iron" And even go for this to the hairdresser. Finally, residents of the Green Island are confident that the most beautiful shoes are sandals. Without stocking. In any weather. As if they did not wake up from time "Medieval greenhouse effect" And still believe that in their country a warm climate, as in the first half of the II millennium. And so under Christmas at a temperature of +5 degrees on the central streets from the pub to Puba Radut, stumbling on the high heels, "Golden" young ladies with bare legs and shoulders, and rain and wind place their rejuvenated hair.

Ireland, where it always rains

By the way, about the weather. Once upon a time, when I first gathered in Ireland, my English teacher looked at me with horror and said: "Oh Darling, But It Is Always Raining There!" ("But a sword, there is always raining!"). Yes, it is almost so. True, not so much in Dublin and on the east coast as a whole, where you sometimes get charming sunny days, how many on the romantic west.

Western Romantics

It’s a shame, of course, that the most beautiful, most "Magic" Places in this country are also the most "wet". First of all it concerns Kerry’s county in the southwest, which residents proudly call "Kerry kingdom". Mountains, lakes, deer and thickets of wild fuchsia – all this mythological good is abundantly poured by the incessant rains.

… For those who are familiar with Irish saga, I inform you: Kukhulin, Konchobar and other heroes "Kidnapping bull from Kualang" lived in the north of the island, on the territory of modern Olster (British Northern Ireland), and the south, that is, the province of Munster, to which Kerry belongs to the cycle of legends about Finn, his son Barda Oisin (more familiar to us as Ossian) and the heroic team Warriors-Feniyev. That is why there are many adorable toponyms like Bealach Oisin, that is, Ousin’s way (it became, he was once and held here). But on one of the green hills there is a fortress called CATHAIR CON ROI. Ku swari was the local king-sorcerer, the only one who in the open battle could not defeat the Great Kukhulin. I had to resort to the tricks, so as not to say meanness: to seduce the wife of the king, Blatad ("Flower") so that, in one fine evening, she whipped her husband and filed a lover’s warriors a signal to the castle storm. The acquaintance was the milk that she poured into the stream flowing to the foot of the hill – so that the water in it. This story still resembles the name of this stream – Fionnghlaise, that is "White River".

Generally, I think one of the important factors, "Responsible" For a special sense of irradiation, the fabulousness of the space that covers the traveler in the Irish West – this is just fascinating words from local "Traditions about Starne", Irish Dinnsheanchas. It is about the whole folk genre, ascending to the early Middle Ages: in it, the names of the seats are always taken or from Saga, or from the lives of one of the numerous Irish saints. Even in the texts of many popular songs you can determine where "Rod" one vehicle.

Those who are interested in traditional Celtic music, I want to advise: Arriving in Dublin, do not think to go to the pub without a competent spent one of the local, which in a strictly defined day will take you into any little-known institution for the concert of performers from the West. And even better – go to one of the numerous music festivals, which every summer go in the deaf corners of the island. There you can find both dance and singers, and a treble pub, and even if you are lucky, listen to the harvesters. Last summer I was lucky to visit the real Irish wedding in Kerry. The groom is a talented harmonist, recently released a debut album, the bride – a violinist, the sister of the groom – also a violinist, and in general about three quarters of the guests were musicians. Everyone brought their tools. At the end of the banquet with compulsory dances, we put in the big hall chairs. And until the morning, harmonica, concertines, violins, different types of flutes, swabs, guitars, mandolina, banjo, little harp. Probably it was one of the best holidays in my life.

I mentioned the lives of saints and associated legends. So, they are still to this day – "Live as life". On the west coast still make boats from bile bullish skins, similar to the one at which in due time went into swim. Brendan (curious referring to the Latin text of Navigatio Sancti Brendani). If you believe the research of the writer and traveler Tim Severin, the Saint and his team were twisted on such a boat of the Atlantic Ocean (and it turns out, along the way, as America "Opened" also Irish!). At the same time, in the province of Kerry, from where, in fact, the brave righteous sailed, such fuzzles are still called Naomhog – from the word Naomh ("Saint").

Another legend is connected with the fact that in Ireland, as you know, there is no snake. It is believed that he expelled their Holy Patrick. At the same time it says that one particularly earnest reptile never came across him, and then Patrick decided to circle him around his finger. He gave a snake box, "tinted" From the inside, as a snake house (after all, Irish legendary snakes, imagine, lived in the houses), they say that I still don’t win such a smart snake … I really liked the snake house, but he, in fact, the slightly reptile, feared to climb inside. Then the cunning holy promised him that he would certainly release him as a last resort "tomorrow". Of course, as soon as the serpent was inside, Patrick burst up the barrel and threw him into a mountain lake. In a certain sense, he did not violate the promises – after all "tomorrow" never comes when it comes – this is today. And poor snakes, they say, still sitting in a comfortable barrel, where sometimes knocks and interested: "And what, not tomorrow?" So, strictly speaking, one snake in Ireland still has. But she is safe.

And therefore you can safely deploy the hollow hills and ruins of ancient settlements. It’s good to do this in the spring when sheep walks on the meadows with tiny lambs. Or in summer, when the Atlantic Waves of the Gray suddenly become blue. Or in the fall, when the blackberry ripes. Or even in winter, when snow can lie on the tops of the mountains – only you need to not forget warm boots, for Irish dampness has a tendency to tear up to the bone. In general, it does not matter when and where – Ireland is everywhere and everywhere prepares meetings with wonderful landscapes. And for each landscape prepares its special "Fairy tale".

Ireland, where it always rains

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