Istanbul: instruction manual

Istanbul has sustainable associations from Russians with "Shopniki", Flooding their bridges Our bazaars and round the clock stores of winter clothes. Poor in this, in general, no. In our climate, the fur coats are needed. Associations also arise with Turkish builders who have built-up half-Moscow and revived the Church of Christ the Savior. Thanks to the Turks, Moscow again confirmed the status of superhorod, where there is something no more. None in New York, nor in Paris, nor in Tokyo there are no multi-storey stores selling covers 24 hours a day without weekends, and a new-fashioned cathedral of very large size.

Of course, almost all of us we know that in addition to the coat in Istanbul, there is still Ayia Sofia and other masterpieces of architecture, magnificent museums, an incredible old market. We know that Istanbul is the only big city located on two continents that his historical center is located on the shores of the Golden Horn Bay, which he was the capital of Byzantium, the Ottoman Empire, that Christianity came from there.

But all this Istanbul is not exhausted. This city is one of the greatest in the world: without having been in it, you can not think that you have seen what you need to see in life. It’s not only in his ancient history and magnificence of his monuments. Istanbul – Powerful Node of Life Energy. And he is striking in any season, with any weather. So, planning your travels, be sure to think about the trip to the shores of the Golden Horn.

We will not try to tell in this article, where in Istanbul must go. Routes such a quantity that their description would take tens of pages. Each, hitting this amazing city on the Bosphorus, will surely find something like. Travel agencies organize excursions for you, in addition, in bookstores you will find many guidebooks. By the way, a completely decent guide in Russian is recently published. But it is worth a little prepared in advance, so as not to feel like a blind kitten in a raging and very diverse Istanbul.

How to move?

There is no metro in Istanbul – unfortunately. There are several tram lines. There are buses, but to understand the trajectories of their following and the schedule arrived is very difficult. Also minibuses are also driving, something like our route taxis, however, with them the same problems that with ordinary buses. So, if you need to get somewhere, where too far go on foot, use a taxi. Their many, all of them are yellow, everyone is equipped with a meter. And, that is highly nice, they are very cheap in Moscow concepts. Usually travel costs two to three dollars; Ride from end to the end of Istanbul (and this is a big city) you will be worth the top ten. The only thing is to ensure that the chauffeur turns on the counter. The overwhelming majority of taxi drivers honest people, but orally occasionally. Address Try to pronounce clearly, and even better – write it on a piece of paper, indicating the area of ​​the city: in Istanbul hundreds of streets and tiny alleys. Most Istanbulians are thinly expressing in English, German or French, and in recent years, more and more people begin to understand Russian.

To cross the Marmara Sea and go to the Asian part of the city, use the ferry or boat. They depart from several marins in different parts of Istanbul. Water stands and take a walk on the Bosphorus towards the Black Sea. Or ride on princes of the island.

But in general, in Istanbul, if you want to know it better, we must walk on foot. The historical part is not so great, you can pass through it. Do not be afraid to get lost: tourist cards are very detailed, and in addition, the Istanbulians are friendly in their mass and will gladly indicate you the way. Wandering through the streets and alleys, working around the steep stairs leading to the tops of the Istanbul Hills, resting in quiet squares adjacent to mosques, you will feel the atmosphere of this amazing and incredibly diverse city.

Where to live?

In Istanbul hundreds of hotels, and their spectrum is very wide. These are international five-star hotels like "Mariott" and "Kempinski", and modest small hotels scattered throughout the city. The most fashionable international hotels are in "European" Parts of the Old Town, in the districts of the pen and Taxim, as well as close to the Palace of Dolm Bakhche. In the pen, for example, is legendary "Feather Palace", built at the beginning of the century specifically for passengers famous agate Christie "Eastern express". Here, in the Taxim area – Comfortable hotels "Imperial", "Marmara", "Nippon", "Green Park" and "Golden Age". V "Old" parts, on the opposite shore of the Golden Horn, there are several amazing small and not very expensive hotels. Almost all of them are rebuilt from the vintage city mansions (Turkish – "conak"). They preserved or restored magnificent interiors, combining comfort and local flavor. They have all the modern comfort. Of the corresponding correspondents "I" Former "Konakov" We mention first of all ayasofia pansiyonlari: Antfilada of nine vintage houses, attached to the wall of the Sultansky Course top. Surprisingly romantic place. Not far from "Little Ayia Sofia" (Churches of Saints Sergius and Vakha) are two wonderful "Konaka" – Amber and Turkuaz. They were lost among the narrow streets of the old Istanbul, the marble sea is seen from the windows, and a five-minute walk – Blue Mosque, Saint Sophia, Top Caps. In the area of ​​Sultanahmet, we advise the hotel "Acropolis". In the severity, next to the Church of Choir (Karie Jami), globally glorified by his mosaics, in a quiet and green quarter, located on a hill above the Golden Horn, is the Kariye Hotel. Beautiful place for quiet pastime. "On an elevation" – So forty minutes walk from the center. However, if you started at home already in the Istanbul airport, it is not necessary to return home. You can stay in the area of ​​Lales, occupied "Shopniki". Most inscriptions here in Russian, Turkish tongue is heard infrequently. But the question arises: whether to leave the depression? You can just go to interfere with the thing market "Dynamo".

Freely convertible

Turkish Lira – not the most small currency of the world, one US dollar costs about 240.000 lir. You can change right at the airport, but in the city, especially in tourist areas – many exchange offices. Naturally, you can change the cash in the hotel. Black market is almost absent. In large stores and restaurants, of course, take to pay a credit card. But with ATMs, the situation is bad. But quite often you can pay dollars or German stamps. Useful advice: carefully follow the number of zeros on banknotes. From astronomical sums, wild even for familiar Russians, "roof" sometimes "rude", And you risk paying times ten more than necessary.

What and drinking?

Turkish kitchen is part "Mediterranean", That is, it is not very different from Greek, Balkan – and Armenian or Georgian. Trapeza in Turkey is divided into snacks ("Meza"), main dish and all kinds of desserts. "Meza" – These are salads, olives, pickled vegetables, acute cheese, mushrooms, anchovies or sardines and other. "Meza" can be cold and hot. In winter, the Turks are often eating soup – "Chorba" from lentils, tomatoes or other vegetables. Independent dish – cold chowder "Jadzhik" From Ayrana (kind of milk product), cucumbers, spicy herbs and garlic. By the way, Ayran, diluted with mineral water – a drink is very tasty and gorgeous quenching thirst. In addition, the Turks adore "Borek" – Little fried patties, customized usually cottage cheese or soft sharp cheese. It is actually very tasty. Turks are traditionally cattle products, so in their kitchen there are many dishes from lamb and beef, as well as birds. This is, of course, all sorts of skewers, dozens of species "Kabap" (products from chopped or finely chopped meat with spices) and "Kyufte" – Little Round Cottlets. It is impossible to imagine Turkish cuisine without "dolma", And this is not only dyeing of grape leaves with vegetable or meat minced. "Dolma" So simple "filled", So in the concept "Dolma" included and stuffed tomatoes, quince, zucchini, eggplants.

In Turkey, perfectly, although without special sings, prepare dishes from fish and diverse "Fruit of the sea" – Black Sea, Marble and Mediterranean Sea are replete. Here and the kefal, and the drum, and the skate, and the fish-sword, and the Flash, and God knows what else. And mussels, and oysters, and squid, and cuttlefish, and octopuses, and langusts, and a lot of shrimp varieties. Sea food, as in the whole world, in Istanbul are somewhat more expensive than meat. It is necessary to take into account one feature of Turkish fish restaurants: the menu does not indicate the cost of the dish, but the price per kilogram of a particular maritime. You yourself choose the fiszy that you liked, and pay depending on how much she pulls.

As for Turkish sweets, they are great, although somewhat heavy – as, however, almost all Eastern pastry.

The view was rooted that Turks were masters for coffee. Actually this is not true. Truly good coffee in Istanbul is not so easy – only in expensive cafes and restaurants. Turks coffee almost do not drink. But litters absorb tea. They drink it from small tulip-like cups called "TeaBardak" (Remember that the glass of Turkish "mess". And transport stop by the way, "fool"). Such "Bardakov" Istanbulz per day can drink more than thirty. And the streets are packed in the streets, "Chaycha", Divorcing this national drink on special trays. Sometimes you can meet the pedigrees of tea with trolleys, on which something like a samovar. In general, it turns out that Samovar did not come up with the Russians at all, but Turks. At the same time, Turkish tea does not differ in special qualities. We brew it better.

As for alcoholic beverages, do not forget that Turkey is still a Muslim country. Although there are no prohibitions here and local residents are not distinguished by absolute sobriety, alcohol is still not an important part of culture. Chief National Strong Drink – Anise Vodka "raki", which is allowed to drink, mixing with cold water (as Greek "Mastica" or French "Pastisa"). Turkish vodka – disgusting quality, do not advise try. And wines are quite acceptable, although, of course, do not reach French or Spanish heights. Perhaps the best – red "Villa Doluja". Turkish beer also thoroughly. So do not break the brands "Hilt" and "Astone".

Multiple addresses. If you want to taste this Turkish cuisine, then go to some of "Lockant" – so called traditional restaurants. One of the very pleasant institutions of this type – "Hamdi" In the Eminony area. Specialty of this Lockery – "Test kebapi", Meat and vegetable dish baked in a jug. The owner on your eyes is fights the neck with a special beast. Entertaining spectacle, taste – great. Also Turkish cuisine, but the Europeanized and more sophisticated we advise you to try in a wonderful restaurant "Asitane" at the hotel "Carie". Dolma and stuffed quince, just like Fambal "salt" – fantastic. As well as the interiors of the restaurant, as well as the garden adjacent to it. Very cozy place – a small restaurant "Altyn Kupa" ("Golden corkscrew") at Sultan Ahmet Erebatan Juddessya, next to Ayia Sofia. The food is quite correct, the atmosphere is very friendly. Also advise "Sarnney" In the area of ​​Nisantasi: Amazing fried meat, Summary from Drochi, Vintage interiors and real folk music. If you want to immerse yourself in the atmosphere of Russian emigration of the 20s – visit "Regens" in Galate. Not far, at the beginning of the street Istiklal, there is a restaurant "Chichek", specializing in meat and fish dishes. Enjoying the food help interiors in the spirit of the beginning of the century. But to eat marine food, it is better to go to a specialized fish restaurant. Most of them are concentrated in two places, in two main Istanbul fish markets. First – in Cracka, at the foot of the Galat. Here is the famous for several decades "Chiftnal". And in another part of the city, near the shore of the Marmara Sea, in the area of ​​Kum Kapa, ​​on the street Telly Odallar, there are about a hundred fisheries restaurants. It is difficult to make a choice, but they all seem very good. If you want to have breakfast fish in the early morning – the best place "Havuzbashi", Located on the shore of the Marmara Sea, in the center of the Kum Kapa Fish Market. Around – trading rows with incredible still lifes from sea creatures, the sea splashes, fishermen unload boats, clouds of gulls, lifting deafening gallege, worn in the air.

Well, if you wanted just a cup of coffee or tea in a beautiful place, we advise you to visit "Citadel", Cafe in the garden of the Top Kapa Palace, above the Bosphorus. Not far, on the very edge of the cape, there is a big tea "Halip" ("Golden Horn"). View of the Bosphorus and Marmara Sea from there breathing. At the other end of the city, in the suburb of Eyup-Sultan, on a high hill, towering over a magnificent architectural medieval complex, cafied cafes "Pierre Loty", named after the French engineer settled in Istanbul at the end of the last century and very favorite this place. View from the cafe terrace – the whole city, the sea, Bosphorus.

In Istanbul restaurants you will enjoy the prices. Russians who have already ceased to be astounding space numbers in our Novorussky "NCOME", Iraise what is in a good restaurant it is difficult to spend more than fifty dollars per lunch for two with wine. It usually costs even twice-three times cheaper. Of course, in Istanbul there are institutions where mad money will be guided with you. But this applies to specifically tourist restaurants, as well as those cereal places where, unfortunately, accustomed to domestic "Brother", not considering money and not understand what is happening around them. So do not fall into excess patriotism and avoid places where Russian spells the other languages. But in Istanbul, it is possible to eat quite well in three or five dollars for two. There are hundreds for this "Kebap-salon" and "Buff", where and kebabs, and kyufte, and chicken, and soup, and "Meza", not being high masterpieces of cooking, still not deceive your stomach.

Typically, the price includes service. But if you do not feel offended, it is customary to leave another 10% for tea.

Go shopping

Istanbul – Trade City. Surely you will not return from it without your baggage in weight. And you can find almost anything anywhere. Nevertheless, it is unlikely to be here to buy clothes of famous European firms, Swiss clock or expensive perfumery. Prices for them are not lower than in Moscow, but not more. Similarly, with cheap lots. Retail the same and the same disgusting quality you may not be more expensive to buy in domestic markets.

Traditionally, in Istanbul, it is customary to buy antiques, carpeting, leather, ceramics, all kinds of chasing, spices. And, of course, small souvenirs. And you can do it in a thousand seats.

You are definitely not a major indoor bazaar, this is a miracle of Eastern trading with its kilometer vaulted streets and countless shops and benches. Here you can buy anything. With patience, good eye and ability to bargain is not excluded that you will be able to buy and very valuable things. Although, of course, the treasures of antiques on the market fall extremely rarely, so do not expect to buy a museum quality carpet here, standing at Sothebyx auction several tens of thousands of dollars, for two or three hundred. But all sorts of funny and very beautiful baubles, decorations, leather products, fabrics and so on – find quite possible. Do not forget to bargain. When you know, you can knock the scene twice, and then three times. Note that in Istanbul when shopping should be bargained everywhere, except for European supermarkets and small food shops.

Next to the Blue Mosque is the carpet and the skin of the ARAST. Go through it and admire we advise you to buy – no. Prices here are phenomenally overestimated and designed for foolish American and Japanese tourists. In general, incarmeable shops throughout the city are traded by carpets, skin, ceramics, national clothing and all sorts of souvenirs. Traditional leather products (shoes, bags, clothing) is very high quality and at very reasonable prices are selling, for example, in the store "Bezhan" On Aledar Street next to Ayia Sofia. On the contrary, in the shop "Otag" Trade cassettes with real Turkish music and folk musical instruments. One of the attractions of this institution is the chicken coop on the second floor. A very good and inexpensive ceramics store, "Fetti", Located next to the Church of Karie.

If you are interested in the works of modern Turkish designers, then you need to go to Taxim district and Istiklal’s street. Here you will find quite expensive, but good boutiques selling shoes, clothing, household items and fashionable jewelry. But the Istanbulians belonging to the middle class prefer to buy clothes, bags and shoes in Zeytynburn district stores on the outskirts of the city, on the way to the airport. Prices here low, and the quality is high.

Istanbul instruction manual

Also, visit the Egyptian market in the Eminony region – the kingdom of spices. From the impregnated advent of the air spins the head, and what is not here! The only problem when buying is half of herbs, spices and other wonders of nature you are unknown, what to do with them – it is not clear. Another place where you can also buy spices and real Turkish soap, famous since the times of the Middle Ages, as well as beautiful natural sponges – these are shops on the street Enicherry, near the university.

And a folk turkish carpet cap, felt fezka, silk scarves and, of course, a mandatory Istanbul souvenir is a glass blue-white-yellow circle, an amulet from a bad eye, you can buy almost every corner.

How to entertain?

There are entertainment, harmful to health, and there are very useful. The Turkish Bath, Hammam, is definitely useful. Invented his prototype, "Terms", More ancient Romans. Turks led to excellence. Describe the pleasure that the hammam brings will not. It was brilliantly made Pushkin in his "Travel in Arzrum". Let’s just say: do not deny yourself in this bliss. Hammamov in Istanbul a few dozen. The most famous among foreigners – respectively, the most expensive – "Chagallo Hammami", Kazimm Gurcan Juddessya, but there are several others, cheaper, where you can fully relax or subjected to the brutal pleasure of ingenious Turkish massage. For example: "Chamberlitash Hammami" (on Vesirchan Juddyze) or "Galatasaray Khammami" (on Tournezhibashi Sokak). In addition, many hotels have their own Hammamami.

Less useful, but still the necessary entertainment – nightclubs with "Driving belly" and Turkish dances and songs. How to visit Istanbul and do not immerse yourself in the magic atmosphere of the oriental kayf? Of course, such ideas are designed primarily for tourists, but it is not necessary to refuse. The most famous places – Galata Tower Night Club, located in the ancient Galat Tower, "Kervancerai" (Elmadag Street) and Orient House (Bayazit Street). The price of the evening includes dinner (enough average, but you do not go there) and drink). You will show you an hour and a half "folk" Dancing different areas of Turkey, and semi-nailed beauties will demonstrate their charms and make the striking wave-like movements directly from your table. Additional piquancy will add to what some of the dancers are our compatriots.


Istanbul, I repeat, the city is the advantage of Muslim. But if you feel that after night entertainment, you need to shale sins, for this there are all possibilities. Two small Russian Orthodox churches (Constantinople Patriarchate) are located in the laners of the region of the Karaki, at the foot of the Galat, and they are located on the roofs of houses. You yourself will not find them, you need to ask local. Near the Taksim Square is a big Greek temple of St. Sergius. And in the area of ​​Fenar, the traditional habitat of Greeks-Stamboliot, you can easily find Constantinople Patriarchate, the place is very beautiful and placing to prayer. Not far from the Golden Horn – Bulgarian Church. Catholics and Protestants have more opportunities even more, about a dozen Catholic churches and Protestant melon houses in the city. Most of them are located in the area of ​​the Pen, where Europeans have settled since the days of Middle Ages. There are also several Armenian Gregorian churches, and the home Istanbulic synagogue is located next to the Galat Tower.

Call parents

You will probably have to talk not only with God, but also with relatives. How everywhere, telephone conversations from the hotel are significantly more expensive than since payphones. Phone cards of different dignity can be bought in negotiation points, which are many (they can often be found in the underground transitions of the central part of the city), journal kiosks and sometimes in souvenir shops.

Human necessity

When you go around the city all day, you will inevitably need to go to the toilet. Public Watercases can always be found next to the mosques. Do not be surprised: Mosque for Muslims is not only a place of prayer, but also a public center. It is certainly surrounded by trading rows, restaurants and cafes, almost always have a hammam. Sometimes on the door of the institution there is an inscription "Modern toilet". It means that "Ms" Fully complies with Western standards. There are more anachronic institutions, but they are acceptable. The cost of use is symbolic – 25-50 thousand lire. Toilets, of course, there are in cafes and restaurants. But in real Turkish tea and "Buff", who attend exclusively men, the lady room may not be.

Alien Monastery

Turkey, for the Muslim country, is very Europeanized. Nevertheless, some rules must be followed. Do not enter the mosque in too frank clothes; Of course, shoot shoes. Agree, the requirements are completely reasonable: I would like the Orthodox, if Muslim will enter the church in shorts, barefoot and without removing the hat from his head? Not worthwhile to photograph Muslim fundamentalists (women in black freaks and bearded gentlemen in traditional clothes). However, if you ask for permission, you will almost certainly refuse. No need to try to capture military facilities in the pictures. You may have trouble with the police. We do not advise you too much loud to express impartial opinions about Turkish politicians, including Kemal Ata Türk: In the country, the real cult of his personality. And keep in mind that Turkey, contrary to common delusions, is not at all the paradise for the smokers Gashish. For drugs here you can firmly raise into prison, and there, they say, very disassemble. In general, Turkish polismen are very friendly and always ready to help.

To tell in detail about Istanbul, pages and pages are required. But if our advice will help you open the universe of this wonderful and always unexpected city, we will assume that they have done their duty. So, ahead, on the shores of the Bosphorus!

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