This is a sweet word: matriarchy
In the afternoon, they do not notice each other, and only late in the evening, the man secretly makes his way to the dwelling of a woman, so that, knocking, listening to the root of the door: let him even be loved or not "A-Xia", How are you called a cute friend?
With the nations committed to the customs of the matriarchate, I met in the south-west of China – at the junction of the provinces Yunnan and Sichuan. Thirty thousand Moso live among the relatives of Nasi. Nasi themselves consider Moso who live in villages around the high mountain lake meadow, their sixth tribe.
"These are live fossils!" – Warned Nasi girl in the tourist office of the city of Lijiang. In her lovely lips, this warning sounded especially funny. For another fifteen minutes before that, she had a full serious age that she had not yet been able to conquer the sacred jade mountain, whose snow peak was visible outside the window. "And all because we constantly ask our gods about it", – confidently continued young Nasi. Then he added with an incentively smile: "Here are the remains of six Japanese climbers, frozen there in the 94th year, until now, you cannot lower down!"
If so "Advanced" Nasi, what are the Moso somewhere at the level of the Stone Age?
But Moso, as it turned out, no longer feel behind. Especially women.
38-year-old Tsoschidam, the owner of the hotel meters to thirty from the shore of the meadow, where I was that evening, only snorted in response to my naive questions about "cave nravakh" Her tribesmen. "Yes these nasi just jealous", – She threw it. And unexpectedly flashed with high political literacy: more Marx, they say, said that the position of the Society was the situation in him.
As for Marx, I confess, forgotten, and did not argue – the appearance of Tsoschidam was more convincing: it was felt in it, some kind of special power manner, which is not produced by years – centuries. It turned out, she was the second one for seniority in his clan – "Parently" Only a 72-year-old mother, which is importantly sacrificed in a residential half of the house, giving a daughter guests to manage. Although they were in the family and sons, quite adult men. But they willingly performed the orders of their sister and generally obviously played a subordinate role.
Everything holds on women. They are hostess in the house, leaders in society, the main productive force. I thought that such a matriarchy could hardly like the Znvniks of women’s rights in Europe. After all, Women Moso, the time of centuries left in the field early in the morning and returned in the evening. Others caught fish in the meadow, graze cattle. Earlier, they say, and military business knew. And some, especially desperate, even robbed, taking away the goods at visitors. Eh, delete girl! The growth and an article, developed muscles, and today are superior to the raised men engaged, as it should be the weak sex, in light work in trade, crafts, service sector.
It even seemed to me that many Moso men were frank slackers, playing Chinese checkers, or wondering around the tight streets.
But the local women men’s idleness does not shock. "What a woman who can not feed a man?" – asked me Tsoschidam and somehow especially convincingly moved an eyebrow, depicting both confidence in his abilities, and easy contempt for those initial missions that were forced to exist at the expense of men. BR-R-R!
The Special Device of the Moso Company was reflected even in their language. Habitual symbol all nations word "father" In Lexicon Moso is absent, although, of course, each kid has, so to speak, physical dad. But who exactly – children as if not interested. But there is a mom, and not alone: my mother can call any woman a kind. Woman chooses a cute friend – "A-Xia" And Volina reject it and without opening "Coming satellite" The door in the evening twilight.
I specifically asked: And there are cases when one lady-Moso has several "A-Xia"? It happens, it happens, they say, but this is not welcome: it can be broken elementary justice – and suddenly anyone will not get?
Live "coastal" Moso in houses, towering, as if on the couch legs, on the pillars: such a design is designed to protect the inhabitants of the housing from spring floods. Some old buildings were surprisingly reminded by the northern huts – the same log house, only the logs are not so thick, as we, in Russia. In China, such housing is not found, except for some peoples living in the north of the PRC.
Historians say that Moso, like Nasi, really came from somewhere from the north, their ancestors, most likely, were the mysterious people who had disappeared in the darkness of the centuries – the mysterious people, nomaded around China and in the earliest times inhabited somewhere in the surrounding area Amura.
Moso’s houses – at least two or three, in which I visited, are decorated with fancy paintings, some dancing little men, consistent and repeating primitive drawings. It turned out – a unique pictographic letter, the only one "Living" in the world, that is, used to this day. True, everyone knows two more than thousands of badges. Few, sort "Intelligentsia", but almost any moso will write "The sun in the clouds", "snowing", "graze cattle near the mountains".
Bezdly walked from Moso traditional beliefs "Daba" and Lamaism of Tibetan sense, they have and shamans, and lamas. And yet the most revered deity is Nyushn, the Great Pramaater, whose images can be seen among Buddhist saints. In Buddhist Pantheon Nyushen merged from the goddess of mercy – Guanin’s Bodisatwa. But Nyushen has their own priestesses.
In the evenings, young people arranges cult dances around a fire, in which again the leading role is given to girls, bold, sometimes caustic, as it should. Pah, almost said "Guys". No, future households at home. Today, these dances are organized for tourists, but, apparently, it was originally connected with the worship of fire.
Alas, in recent decades in the age-old places of culture, Moso appeared. In the houses you can see colored TVs, washing machines. Someone else moves on horseback and yaks, but the younger generation chooses scooters and mopeds.
But the most terrible one – many kids can show your finger on your dad, calling him a Chinese word "woman" ("dad"). Marriage couples often appear in one store, on one field. True, not quite shame lost – they do not advertise their proximity, demonstratively parting at the end of the day so that the man had the opportunity to knock on the closed door to his beloved. Open? Will not open?
And the Amazons have a heart not stone! No wonder the local young women singing, entering the dance:
"I saw three thousand men in his life,
But none of them captivated my heart, like a cute ah"!
. Beauty-Moso, who eagerly agreed to take pictures with me on the background of the surrounding mountains in exchange for ten yuan (a little more than a dollar), suggested with a laugh: "Come to our village, a foreigner, knock on my door, maybe I will open!"