Japanese autumn. Momidzi time

Japanese autumn. Momidzi time

Who at least once washed in a crystal mountain stream, who breathed predier fog, who tried to remember the web of the web in the grass and who heard the leaves fall, – he will understand what Japanese autumn is.

Autumn. Defaste aesthetics and time contemplation of crimson leaves Maples Momidzi. Momidzi – not just the name of the plant species, and the tuning time of the year. The fleeting brightness is a sign of withering, the first chord in a new collapse range.

Japanese autumn comes sickly. More green bamboo leaves and bright sun illuminates space before the cyclone season. But no longer hot, and the air is more transparent, and twilight is thicker. Japanese autumn comes as a memoir of vintage melodies, and we are constantly born.

Ginkakuji Pavilion appears from autumn foliage as the temple of these eternal harmonies. He ugly, especially for a Japanese eye, accustomed to halftons, and in his gold looks strange. But he brilliance he claims the traditional Japanese aesthetics of the shadow from the opposite. So the stones are reflected in the pond, whose surface stores the reflection of the Great Segunov.

The path to the pavilion is enveloped by an old pond, in which artificially arranged islands and cascades are posted in accordance with the main canon of all the ancient eastern arts – the most skillful what is most natural. Here it is natural to feel like a mouse lost in Bonsay, in the garden on a tray.

Where the track goes on the edge of the pond, you can meet Karpov. Rather, the carps here also contemplate Momidzi, and at the same time they wait for the tourists to be attempted.

Here, in the Garden Gaincuji, well reflects at this time. On the movement of waters and reflections of trees, the addition of stones in the island, about the merging of flows into the lake, about the values ​​of the color of autumn colors and their fading. This is the time of Momidzi, the philosophy of sadness, the shade of past impressions.

. On the bus parking lot at the entrance to the park light, alarming and solemn revival. From the tourist bus, several men carry a mobile intensive care complex, design (conditionally let’s call it "bed"), uniting any extreme livestock units and a Japanese boy’s body connected to them. It is not immediately noticeable against the background of these tubes and wiring. Sick Reality, but in the depths of the frozen glance beats life. The procession is removed in the depths of the park. A person lives until contemplate Momidzi and listen to the sounds of fallen leaves. National aesthetics merges with ethics of human relations. Wanting to capture this solemn and dramatic moment, mechanically dragging to the camera, but a friend’s palm falls on the hand: "Not everyone needs to shoot". Japanese aesthetics requires shortness, and therefore the figures of the procession dissolve in the blueberries of the autumn park.

Payment for Magic

In Kyoto many temples. The road to the temple of the Missant is all the time in the mountain and becomes a street, a lively brisk trading. There are crowds of tourists through it, which does not prevent parishioners to pay their thoughts to Buddha. The temple is dedicated to one of the thousands of Bodhisattvas who have reached Nirvana, but who returned to the world for his enlightenment. Start of school year. Schoolchildren and students come here with a request for their enlightenment, at least at the time of test.

In the temple and on its terraces are measured. It’s nice to step by barefoot on wet, polished by the hands of builders and legs of believers, a little wet from the evening fog of the boards of the old temple. Monks sing the Buddha’s hymns, tourists of other denominations to them restrained, observed, watching the action through the eyepieces of their cameras not without respect. Impact service invites any note to the gods with a request or prayer. You can ask for everything about good marks, about the health of relatives, about the service, about the extension of the Japanese visa. Can be modestly silent, addressing god gratitude.

The temple seems to be included in the reliefs of the mountain. Cascade of wooden steps leads down, along the slope. Below, three magical streams beat from the depths of the mountain, and in each of the jets the secret force is hidden. One spring brings wealth, the second – the mind, the third – health. I want everything immediately, but you can only eat from one. This is the temple of your own well-being. Therefore, here are crowded. Usually come here twice: the first time to drink from the source, the second – thank the gods for the fulfilled desire. Here is some elderly Japanese in elegant clothes in gratitude for the execution of something very important in her life scattered in the streams a whole bag of coins. Chekned Liquors of what monarchs do not look at us from the streams! Under the magical water, the whole history of the world in the coat of arms and portraits. The queue of the suffering is quickly moving.

Of the three sources, I chose a source of health, deciding that because of the mind and wealth, earth affairs, you should not disturb the gods. Magic water should have caught in the bucket on a long handle, which then be sure to put in place – on the grid, from under which the ductile light beat ultraviolet rays. Considate seconds, the bucket will be sterile.

Our o-kickie weighs more tons

Further my way lay to Nara Prefecture. Esino Village, where I found myself, is located in the ancient area of ​​Japan and has its own story. Esino mentioned in myths. Mythological arch "Codziki", the leading history of Japan from cosmogony to the emperors of the VIII century – contemporaries of compilers, comes to us that the people of Kudza lived here that these people were lovers to enjoy nuts and frogs and that they sang beautiful songs by playing on "Light drums".

The blood prince of Esino in the Middle Ages was an opposition of the yard. Then the Emperor was hiding here and even wanted to transfer the capital here. But he did not succeed, and these places are now the villages, inscribed in the non-rigid shady valleys and mountain ranges, for which she strives for the ocean of the river Takaki-Gava, – remain province with problems that any province is experiencing. Young people leave to large cities. No, life does not freeze from it, only it is supported by more than more old men. They continue to keep ancient rites, honor the god of Mount Yama-but kami, ask him, so that the genus was not interrupted, so that the house was a complete bowl, so that everyone was who stayed in Esino, and everyone who left her. My friend, Tetsu Matsumoto, now lives in the suburb of Osaka, but does not forget and old life in Esino, his native village. In the house of his ninety grandmother he is frequent guest.

– Now few people honor the pit, but kami, but before earlier than a rare day they did not appeal to the prayers and requests. The most important holiday in his honor came on October 17. On this day, men wore O-Mikosi for all surroundings, and they were planted for children to be more born and everyone was healthy.

– And what, now you do not care?

– We carry. Only in the village there were alone old men. Young people leave to large cities, in Tokyo, Osaka.

– And what, only young men should wear o-kick?

– Any. But young to do it easier. Our o-kicky weighs more than a ton, and we have to wear it all around the neighborhood. We have a very mountainous area. Plus, it is necessary to plant for this, so that happiness was. Old people are very hard. For the next year come, you will help us wear it.

– And what, Gaidzin (foreigner) can also participate in the rite?

– Gaidzin, not Gaidzin – what’s the difference, there would be a peasant healthy.

– And I can wear o-kick?

– You can, if you are not afraid.

– What home will not leave. Yama, but Kami does not let go of those who wear O-kick in his honor. Here one Russian from Osaka once wore O-Mikobe, for six years in Japan lives.

The path in the sanctuary of the mountain spirit, however, the grass does not overgrow. It is located by the road, which, turning from the route to the mountains, here describes a smooth rotation around the natural rock output. In the niche of the rock and the sanctuary of a pit, but kami, very clean and well maintained. There are no buildings, only two identical small altars, but this is a temple. The entrance to it separates from the vope of the simonava rope, stretched across the track: to approach the sanctuary, you need to go under it. The sacred cord here is an ancient version of the ritual gate of Toria, which are built before each Japanese temple and denote the entrance to the sacred space. On the rope hanging wooden layouts of carpentry and lumbering tools, wooden carp – a symbol of life durability, which the residents of Esino would borrow with you, and onions with an arrow attached to the guide directed toward the road. He scares not travelers, but evil spirits that enjoy the same earth trails as people. I had several mines! ut to talk with a pit-but kami. What I spoke with him in his temple? It’s not a secret. I thanked him for the fact that we are all, for clean water in Takaki-Gava, for the warm October sun, for the fact that it is so beautiful at this time there are Momidzi, for the fact that the leaves are falling and appear again. And I also wanted a pit, but Kami, so as not to stop the family of lumberjacks of Esino and that every autumn was someone to wear a heavy sacred palanquin in his honor. Saying good, I left my amulet in the sanctuary, as a sign of respect, and maybe with the secret hope someday?

. Japanese autumn comes in shades. And red maples Momidzi only clutch shades of the sunset season. So the gods of Yamato, big aesthetes, prefer halftone to ordinary gifts. And rustle in crowns of the soul of vintage poets:

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