Just three days in Madrid, but how many impressions!
For lazy man Madrid is very convenient. Three main sights – Queen Sofia Museums, Prado and Tissren-Bornemis – are located almost on the same street. And although life in Madrid is not limited to artistic assemblies, it was in them the glory of the Spanish capital.
Better less yes better.
True, these museums on one straight will not succeed and therefore, following the assembly chronology, it will be necessary to start with the middle of Paseo Del Prado, – that is, from the Museum of Prado. This is one of the most luxurious museums of the world, although not so huge as Louvre or Hermitage. Prado is much compact (however, one and a half hours of standard excursion are not enough for you), but the value of the collection is determined because not sizes! There is Bosch with his famous Triptich "Scary court", and Peter Bruegel elder, and numerous masterpieces of ancient sculpture. But the pride of the meeting, of course, the spanish school canvas. From El Greco and Velasquez to the huge selection of Goya – everything is impressive. After all, anywhere in the world of such a variety of Spaniards will not. However, Goya – the last painter presented in Prado. Later authors need to be found in the National Museum Center of Queen Sofia, located near the Atoche station in the rebuilt building of the Main City Hospital. Today he has glass elevators outside (something reminds the center of Pompidou in Paris). It was here and Dali with Juan Grasz, and Juan Miro, and Picasso (including his famous "Grannie"). Even more places pays the center of Queen Sofia temporary projects – good, not only the museum’s own halls have, but also a Crystal Palace, and a separate pavilion in the Retiro Park next door. I advise you not to leave the temporary exhibitions without attention – sometimes you will meet so much unexpected! I, for example, saw in Madrid "Surrealists in Exile", where all the classics of this flow were shown, fascinating from fascism in New York. Now surrealists in Strasbourg transported, and there they enjoy tremendous success. And the present in the fall in the center of Queen Sofia shows the caldera retrospective, the author of the employed "Mobile" – Movable sculptures leaning from the slightest audience. And in November-December, numerous Minotaurs Picasso will be given here. And Prado, and the center of Queen Sofia are based on meetings of Habsburg. The most famous private collection of Spain is the Museum of Tissen-Bornesese. He is arranged in such a way that it comes from top to bottom. Going down from the third floor to first, you see all 800 masterpieces of this amazing collection, which was for the symbolic price sold, almost donated by Spain with a certain owner living in Lugano. Accounting and Fra Angeliko, Gauguen and Legeway – the whole history of world art can be traced, without leaving this palace. And at the bottom, in the basement, the viewer, as a rule, is waiting for a temporary exhibition. This fall here shows the drawings of Viktor Hugo (the great writer was a talented schedule). I was lucky to get another temporary exhibition in Tisssena – "View of time": 200 With excess drawings and a dozen sculptures from the collection of Swiss Antiquary Circular-understood, perfectly complemented the permanent exhibition of the museum. Pictures of Tintoretto and Veronese, Poussa and Cesanna, Rembrandt and Engra . With this collection are comparable to a few meetings in the world, it has almost all the classics of the European drawing. Madrid became the last point in the European tour of this assembly – before that there were sensational exhibitions in the Engraving Cabinet of Berlin and the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice. A year later, the drawings will rest, the exhibition will be shown in her "Native Walls" – In Geneva.
Art grows with banks.
In the Spanish capital, life flows amazingly. In addition to the fact that all the largest museums necessarily arrange once or two per week free entrance for visitors (see. below "Notes on the fields"), Local banks are concerned about not one superprillage, but also those who have better and beautiful gallery or an exhibition hall. And in most cases the entrance to bank exhibitions is free. At the same time, banks are having fun as they can: Some show the largest artists of our century, others – the French symbolism of the beginning of the century, third – "AR BRUT", Art that has grown out of the creativity of children and mentally ill. One of the banks organized a newly unique exhibition "Spirits of water", dedicated to the art of Alaska. Masks and ritual items, ceremonial hats and clothes are striking expression and beauty. Since the lands on both sides of the Bering Strait belonged to the Russian Empire, the largest number of materials for the exhibition provided the St. Petersburg Kunstkamera (Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography named after Peter Great). By the way, until recently, visitors to this museum were obliged to leave him within one and a half hours after the entry, which is why it is not possible to consider all his wealth in a normal setting. So, it turns out, only in Spain treasures Kunstkamera and enjoy.
Palaces, monasteries and other museums.
Of course, by visiting three museums in two days, you can perform a program – a very hasty and not designed for a serious acquaintance with Madrid. But here there is a lot of curious – from gardens and parks (the most famous – Retiro near the station "Atoche", Moreover, the station with his tropical garden under the roof itself is an interesting tourist object) to the Museum of Lope de Vega. Not so rich in masterpieces as Prado, but still a very familiar collection of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts San Fernando. In addition to the indispensable Surbaran and Goya there are here and Archimboldo, famous for his heads of fruit. Impressive collections of art show Madrid monasteries. The most famous of them – Convento Descalzas Reales and Real Monasterio de la Encarnaci’on. You can get here only with the excursion (it is formed every 30-40 minutes directly at the box office), and the guide says, as a rule, in Spanish. But monasteries acting, and beauty in them and indeed indescribable. Well, of course, it is impossible not to go to the Royal Palace (Palacio Real), it is impossible not to see his amazing interiors and a collection of painting (in the art gallery should be recorded in advance). There are also temporary exhibitions here, and often they are associated with the life of the Spanish crown.
Not museums uniform.
What else should be visited in the Spanish capital to people who are thirsty of aesthetic impressions? For a long time, the building of the Madrid Opera was closed for repairs, but several years ago he was finally opened. There are no permanent troupe, the directors and performers are invited to specific productions, and therefore performances are usually given to two or three weeks in a row, after which they disappear for a long time from the repertoire. Among the events of this year – of course, "Lady Macbeth Mtsensky County" Shostakovich in setting and under the control of Mstislav Rostropovich. After that, the premiere was held "Don Quixote" Cristobal Halfteher. Such an impressive spectacle, I confess, I have not been seen for a long time. "Don Quixote" Begins with the coffin of the orchestra. Before the scene – a huge pit, the bottom of which is not visible even from the upper tiers. Backdrops disappear through windows and doors visible evening Madrid with his buses and a flange crowd. On the stage, in the meantime, two goes. bulldozer. They push in front of them huge piles of books that dump into the abyss. After a moment, the floor of the orchestral pit will rise to its usual level. It will be a real Mont Blanc from books. From the bindings to the light of God, the chorists will start to get out, a total of eighty people. The mountain of defeated books will be the main person "Don Quixote". It is on this mountain that the red airplane will be lowered, from where Don Quixote himself will appear, then a huge white pegasus with red wings will arrive there (on stage in general there are only three colors – black and white books, frames and evening dresses are opposed red flashes of feelings and thoughts). Mountain foliages with turning pages (this moment is worthy of Copperfield), and then the Servana himself will be risked on it, so similar to its own standing near the opera Monument on Spain Square.
Around Madrid a lot of beauty and attractions where you can go for a day. Castle Elkosar, Toledo with his famous cathedral, medieval city Cuenca. All of them, of course, deserve a separate story. I want to warn only: you can stay in Toledo in the afternoon without lunch, especially on Saturday, if you do not order a table in a restaurant in advance: not only tourists, but also locals book places for family lines (in fact, it is better to come to this city yet on two Day, otherwise, do not catch the museum of El Greco living here, and in the famous synagogues on the whole world, and in the Church of Saint Leockadia). And if, clogging in the Escorial, you want to go back on the grave of Franco (it is located nearby in the mountains, in the middle of an impressive monument to Frankists), it is better to know the bus schedule in advance – it goes once a day.
Queen Museum Sofia: Santa Isabel, 52. Ticket price 500 peashes ($ 1 = 180 peset). Free on Saturdays from 14.30 and on Sundays (these days are possible). Prado (on the street of the same name, house without a number).Tissan Borneiss Museum: Paseo Del Prado, 8. Daily, except Monday, from 10 to 19. Entrance – 700 peasses (pensioners and children up to 12 years old). Ticket in all three museum costs 1,275 peashes. Modest lunch for two persons in "Viridiane" (Calle Juan de Mena, 16, bodies. 91 523 44 78, Fax 91 532 42 74) will cost you 10 thousand. pest. Other Good Restaurant: El Bogavante (Capitan Haya, 20, Metro Cuzco), Botin (Cuchilleros, 17) and Hacienda San Angel (General Yague, 6). Royal Academy San Fernando. Calle De Alcala 13. Open from Tuesday to Friday from 9 to 19, from Saturday to Monday from 9 to 14.30, on holidays up to 14 hours. PRICE PRICE 400 PESET. Among the shopping areas is famous for the one that is located near Puerto Del Sol. The network of available supermarkets is called El Cortes. To visit the Spanish capital well, any time of the year, except for the summer: hot, and small museums even closes at this time.