Kamchatka – the territory of Beringia
To control a dog harness, you do not need a reimbursement or whip – only a voice. Cayurs lead their dogs on endless expanses through the ice breath of the wild edge.
Route Racing "BERINGIY" It takes through the most beautiful and often deserted places of the peninsula, so the participants are inhabited by food – both for themselves and for dogs. Those most appreciated Yukuu – the fish dried in the sun. But there is no need to carry the water: around full of snow.
"Beringia" – today the same brand of the peninsula, like crab, bear or volcano. Multi-kilometer race on dog sledding held since 1990. Then eight strokes ran the distance of 250 km. Berinium – biogeographic area, in periods of global glaciation binding Eurasia with North America. Over time, the Beringian shelters, who connected two continents, turned into Bering Strait. It is symbolic that the race was designed to pave a bridge between the modernity and the disappearing traditions of the indigenous peoples of the North.
The first competitions were not only a sports, but also humanitarian character: participants on traditional narts brought to remote koryak villages, books, medicines. Kilometer grew up like on yeast: for the second time it was increased eight times, and "Beringia" became The most extended In the world, the race on dog sledding according to Books of Records Guinness. However, the length of the route varies each time, so this honorary title "Beringi" has long lost, although in Russia there is still no equal.
The event was never massive (still not every and a half thousand kilometers on dogs can be able to pass), but the status has become pretty quickly: in 2010, "Beringia" entered the calendar of the official holidays of Kamchatka Territory. A few years later, a decent prize fund appeared, which is about 10 million rubles today (3 million go to the first place.
It’s somewhat unfolded vector racing. Her originality began to go to no, not representatives of indigenous peoples, speaking on traditional narts, but athletes on light aluminum sleigh, ready to run next to them part of the whole distance (usually 100-200 km) to reduce the load on dogs and Due to this, increase the speed. In the 2020th winner for the first time a woman became Muscovite Anna Eremin. In 18 days she passed 15 stages of the general 1050 km.
"Beringia" – an event, though significant, but not too tourist: Caairaz do not make a company on endless expanses, and I will not take a harness for rent. Participants are brought from the whole country their dogs. However, it is possible to join the holiday. In parts.
Since 2014, the Main Race of Kamchatka starts from two different points: in the even one – from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, in odd – from the village of Esso in the center of the peninsula. It was there that the start was the first in the history of "Beringi". From under the ground there are hot springs – the pool is in every yard. The same water runs through the pipes, pours out of the cranes and heats the local greenhouses, in which lemons and grapes are grown all year round.
Esso – Rare in Kamchatka Place where tourist infrastructure is developed. You can look at the skull and the scarecrow of a brown bear in a tiny museum "Toptygin and begging", Examine life of Evenks in the Bystrino Museum of Local Lore, see the photos of the very first "Beringi" in the Museum of the race and swim (and not just lie down) in a large free hot pool in the center of the village.
Thermal sources in Esso discovered geologists in the 1970s. The water temperature reaches 65 ° C, and it is necessary to come to the reception of the baths. Not more than 20 minutes, and only if you do not have heart disease.
The climate in the Esso Surrounded Mountains is sharply continental. There may be degrees for twenty colder than in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky.
Nearby, in the Natural Park Bystrin, included in the UNESCO World Heritage List, is worth Village Anavgai. Most of these residents – Evenks and Koryaki, Outrared Olenevododa. Every year in March, they drive their deer in Esso to take part in the traditional reindeer day and reindeer races. The event is important – a snowmobile is played out, without which nomads are almost like without deer.
Bystrrin Museum, built in the image and similarity of the Cossack Ostrog of the XVII century, – The only museum of ethnography on Kamchatka. Here are talking about the houses of indigenous peoples and demonstrate artifacts collected in expeditions according to remote Koryak and Evenki villages and cable.
Ethnocultural Center "MENTEK" tries to preserve the language and customs of Evenks. Here, tourists show a traditional coward, treat shurta from venison, entertain national dances. In June – in honor of the Evenki New Year – a festival is held in Anavga "NURGENEK".
Well, the opening of the race, which anyone can get, every year with Pompey passes in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. To the place of start from the city center or neighboring Elizovo, where the airport is located, bring free buses. Dancing, concert, fireworks, as well as two competitions in Biathlon complex named after Vitaly Fatyanova: Children’s race "Dulins" and adult, in which much more Cayurs participates than in the "Beringi". Children’s prize fund – the most mimicious in the world: puppies husky from good nurseries.
After tapping all the shaggy participants (approach them only after the race, so as not to knock down), pay time and the Kamchatka capital itself. In winter, the appearance is not the most cheerful, but all the three "home" volcanoes on the horizon are asked: the highest, Koryaksky, the lowest, Kozelsky, and Avachinskaya Natka – in the middle. Koryak Sopka – Willing-volcano height 3456 m in the form of an ideal cut cone. The word "Nacca" should not confuse: if it means a low hill in Siberia, then there are volcanoes on Kamchatka – acting or extinct.
Their slopes dissect freeriders to which you can join if you have a guide and you are confident in your abilities. Interestingly prepared slopes in Kamchatka are almost no, but the fans of freeride are available huge wild territories.
Less extreme riding is available on the Basis "Red Natka" and "Edelweiss" right in the city feature. And you can go toward Elizovo, to the resort "Frosty Mountain", Where in 2019 was held in the Country Championship in Ski Sports. Trails long up to 2 km, tasty cafe, chair lift, instructors – all you need for a pleasant slip overlooking volcanoes. The season lasts until the end of April.
In the city, it is certainly worth entering an interactive museum "Vulcanarium". Here you can close to see the eruption, consider in the microscope the frozen lava, make sure that the pumice is not sinking in the water, and buy a candle in the form of a volcano. Vulcanarium visitors are offered to take an audio guide or join the excursion. You will be lucky if it is to lead it to the founder of the museum Sergey Samoilenko.
Pier from the fish port in the bay of Mokhovoy from October to March occupied Syucemi, Large eared seals, lined in the Red Book. In search of a darm fish, which commits them from the plant workers and ships, they even get off ashore and turn into trash can. Tourists also come with handouts, even though scientists are begging not to feed the animals: they are lazy, and no longer migrate to hunt, due to which the entire population suffers. In Russia, there are only two cities where you can like this, from the embankment, to see the largest on Earth of seals (males sweep up to 3.5 m in length): Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky and Nevelsk on Sakhalin.
The most Instagram Panorama of the famous Avachinsky bay opens from Cape Lighthouse, where to carry on snowmobiles. From the height of the symbols of the Kamchatka – Rocks-kekura three brothers, Focusing from the waters of the Pacific Ocean, as well as the Petropavlovsky Lighthouse (works since 1897). Sorry, it will not get to him – a military facility.
Unforgivable to leave and without learning Driving dogs. "Beringia" – not the most suitable place for this. It is better to go to one of the many nurseries in the vicinity of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. The program is designed for six hours: you will not only be explained who is in the harness gas and where the sled brake is still feeding, we will seek, we will seek in national clothes and provide emotions for many weeks ahead.
In winter, the most ecological trail and summer routes. Climbing the hills, walking towards lakes and coast become impossible. Snowmobiles are cut down: otherwise it’s easy to move here. They are going even in front of the participants of Beringia, clearing the path and laying the track between deep snowdrifts. And to key attractions – Volcanoes and Valley Geysers – and can only be reached by helicopter. Yes, despite all the achievements of the XXI century, Kamchatka still remains unrefined. What does not prevent you with all my heart.
Snowproof tours in winter are completely replaced by automotive, otherwise you will not get on the limits of civilization at all. However, this is still extreme: speed, wind, cold. Yes, and about the fuel need to take care in advance – the refueling is not at every step.