Krasnoyarsk – Megapolis in Siberian
The capital of the Krasnoyarsk Territory is usually not considered as a place for a tourist trip, and in vain: in one of the oldest cities of Siberia, there are enough historical monuments, and interesting museums, and natural attractions.
With red string
Siberian metropolis imagine a harsh beds, but Krasnoyarsk is surprisingly a cozy city with a friendly interface: the Winter Universiade in 2019, and now that is preparing to the 400-year anniversary, it will also grow by new embankments, squares, promenade and other human-loving infrastructure.
Well, the photogenicity always enough ; "On the tire, the place is pleased, high and red," so in 1623 described these edges of the Cossack Voir Andrei Dubensky. Since that red, the story began: the Ostrog, which Cossacks built the Kachi River and Mighty Yenisei, began to call the Red Yar, from him and the city grew up. And the same Yar, where the Cossack Watch once stood, now he is called the mountain guard, and on its top in memory of all these glorious events, the chapel of Paraskeva Friday, one of Krasnoyarsk characters. Familiar, however, each Russian – her image decorates ten-member bills.
Previously, a signal gun was still given from the guard at noon, but a year ago she was taken to repair, but never returned. If you believe folk Molve, due to the volume of the shot, from which the glass was trembling in the entire district and carved car alarm: the local constantly complained about it in Rospotrebnadzor, and the municipality is now breaking his head, as it should shoot, but not yet invented. So now to Paraskeva Friday, you will not suit the shot, but it’s still worth climbing the mountain – for the sake of a strategic view on the city, beautifully spread among the Taiga sobes.
Now Krasnoyarsk fills the entire valley, and once felt at a narrow peninsula between Kackets and Yenisei. But the old city has disappeared in 1773 in a big fire. Restored Krasnoyarsk according to a regular plan: with the streets and geometrically correct quarters battered. So go to study well-preserved ancient building of the historic center can be without any navigator – do not get lost. And there is something to see: strong merchant houses, elegant wooden mansions in modern style, elegant urban estates, churches in the style of the Siberian Baroque and even a gothic church with towers and stained-glass windows – acting Catholic church and part-time Organ Hall of the Regional Philharmonic.
For the high concentration of concert halls, theaters, museums and other cultural facilities Krasnoyarsk at one time nickned by Siberian Petersburg. Local museums and now ask the bar in the whole region. In art, for example, the most significant assembly of fine arts behind the Urals is kept. The museum is named Vasily Surikov, and the complement to a large collection of works by the artist is located next door to his house-museum. In the exposition of the municipal museum – one of the oldest in Siberia – there are skeletons of Mammoth and Stegosaurus, Napoleon and Rasputin autographs, letters of the Decembrists and other rarity. Yes, and he himself impresses: the building is stylized under the Egyptian temple with thematic paintings on the front. And the innovative museum center "The Square of the World" is considered the largest in Siberia an exhibition platform for modern art.
The area of the world is the very place of merge Kachi and Yenisei, from where Krasnoyarsk began. Local names All this area arrow, on weekends and holidays here are arranged in the evening light music show, the day the winter festive entourage itself provides the great river. It does not freeze, and over the incredibly clean and rapid water in frosty days is worth a foggy haze. Because of it, bridges, houses and trees on the shores are completely covered with Jerus, and when the sun goes out, everything is starting to sparkle as New Year’s tinsel.
Unlike other large rivers, Yenisei does not cover shyly, and with Siberian directness rushing along the border with Mongolia and to the Arctic itself, sharing in half and Russia, and Siberia. The Great West Siberian Plain ends on his left bank, and Eastern Siberia begins on the right and hurry to Taiga Taiga. Split is felt in Krasnoyarsk itself: local people say that two shores – like two different cities, differ not only by the relief, but also the mentality of residents.
And between them, as a reconcilatory compromise – the Yenisei Islands, the largest of which, Tatyshev, is completely given under public park with art objects, kilometers of paths for runners and cyclists, sports and playgrounds. In the summer, on the island, the sandy beach is open, in the winter – a huge rink and running tracks for cross-country skis, in the future they are going to build another golf course, a climbing, buried ponds and a historical and ethnographic village with a copy of the most Cossack, from which it all started.
If the left bank of Yenisei offers basically cultural entertainment, then on the right on the famous municipal bridge, also depicted on ten-dear, are moved mainly for the sake of active recreation. Here, right within the city, there is a fanpark "Bobrow Log" – a real ski resort, on the cool end hill of which 14 runs with a drop of heights up to 350 m and a total length of almost 10 km (nine of them have FIS certificates). There is a snowpark here, a slide for riding on the cheesecakes and Relelban – rail sledges that have been operating all year round.
And immediately behind the hills begins wild beauty. To rest in nature, Krasnoyarsm do not even need to go anywhere – the protected taiga comes close to urban outskirts. Together with all its inhabitants: Each Krasnoyarst Baek about a meeting with a bear is greater than that of Moscow and St. Petersburg car enthusiasts – stories about harmful traffic police officers. However, in late autumn and winter, Kosolapi sleep, you can safely go for a walk – for example, on the Torgashinsky ridge, a 15-kilometer mountain massif with picturesque limestone rocks. About 80 km of marked pedestrian trail are laid on it, to reach most of which can be directly from the southern outskirts of the city, and local travel agencies are arranged for those who want excursions on SUVs and ATVs.
From the top of the sobes of "Bobrovogo Log", a fancy stone comb is clearly visible, as if germinating through the slopes of the neighboring slide. This is a cliff Takmak – the outpost of the famous Krasnoyarsk pillars, the main center of the National Park. Stone remains scattered around the taiga in the vicinity of the city, for locals – real place of force. Every of almost hundreds of rocks, they know by name and recognize the silhouette, about anyone can tell a lot of legends and stories, come to them at any time of the year and at any time of the day.
For more than a hundred years, there is a unique movement in Krasnoyarsk, which is called "pillars" – the most important subculture with its laws, heroes and jargon. The columns came up with a special climbing system, having learned in lizard climbing smooth stones without any insurance, built a secret hut at height, in which there is no stroke, and created their own moral code. The phenomenon is so important for the city that the building of the museum center on the square of the world decorates the word "freedom" with a slightly uneven last letter – an accurate copy of the same inscription on the second pillar made in 1899 and has become a symbol of piblism.
Several walking paths are laid on the reserve, the easier accessible starts directly from the fanpark "Bobrow Log". But even it is better to go to the experienced guide from the local, who will tell the lot of interesting things about the pillars, and about columns. For example, about the legendary Andrei Aronach with a gray beard, which can easily go down the vertical wall of the head, introducing himself after that shocked tourists of a man-spider grandfather. And even better – rent a guest house in the "Narym" complex and after the excursion staying spending the night: the terms of Spartan, but the dawn over the pillars you will never forget.