Land Franz Joseph – Freedom Territory
There are far distant corners in the world. Having once, pulls back here. Let even in thoughts.
On August 4, he left the desire, NES "Mikhail Somov" rushed to the very northern point of our expedition – to the Earth Franz Joseph.
This is a unique archipelago, "built" Nature from Basalt and Ice. Ice covers amazing ice-haired daspers 87 percent of the territory of the archipelago.
She shook a little, but finally, a wide strip of fine ice floats floating our vessel, packed the waves, and members of the expedition, especially who first found himself in these parts, filled the main deck, prepared in anticipation of especially beautiful ice. Single blue icebergs proudly swim by a ship walking with a small way.
The fog that appeared with ice is thickened – the ground is close. But even in the fog, these islands are just beautiful.
Although this geographical point has become a place quite often visited, but the halo of a special attractiveness, like the highest peaks of mountain peaks, will never lose.
Somehow, I read one article, it was said that the monotonous Arctic is changing only twice a year. Summer and winter. I do not know, this could say or write a person who stayed here either too little time, or absolutely not noticing the beauty of harsh Arctic nature. It is multifaceted and changes even a day several times.
The archipelago of the Land Franz Joseph was opened by the Austro-Hungarian Polar Expedition on the ship "Admiral Tegtetgof" in 1873. This expedition was organized by Austrians. Payer and K. Weiprecht for the purpose of finding the northeast passage.
The vessel was clamped with ice near the new land and no more from them was freed. At the end of August 1873, Tegtetgof, drift with ice to the north, turned out to be off the coast of an unknown land, where it is finally ground in ice.
In honor of his emperor, the Austrians called the unknown archipelago of Franz Joseph (ZPI).
In 1874, leaving the ship, the participants of the expedition headed for south on boats. With great difficulty, they reached the new land, where they were chosen by Russian beversmen.
In July 1895, the famous Norwegian traveler Furoof Nansen, moving on drifting ice, reached these islands and at Cape Flora met here with the head of the English Polar Expedition Jackson.
In the future, the Land Franz-Joseph attracted the attention of many polar researchers: in 1898 – 1899 the American expedition was wintering here. Walman, in 1899 – 1900 – the Itsian Expedition of the Duke of Abruzzky, in 1901 – 1905 the American expeditions of Baldwin and Phials were visited again.
In 1913 – 1914, the Russian expedition g was winterized in the archipelago. I AM. Sedova
In 1929, the icebreaker "Georgy Sedov" arrived in the bay. Land Franz Joseph was not only solemnly announced by Soviet – it became inhabitable. In the bay calm on the island of Gucker – where for one and a half dozen years before the seeds wintering was built and the first in the archipelago constantly acting a polar station was built and opened. At that time – the northernmost in the world. The head of the first wintering was left.I AM. Illyashevich. Station worked for almost 30 years. From this time began active development of the archipelago.
In the summer of 1957, due to the "not representativeness of meteorological observations", the station was transferred to the Isis Island (80 ° 37 ‘with.NS., 58 ° 03 ‘in.D.) lying in a hundred kilometers northeast. Station on Hayes for some time was called "Friendly". In 1972, to honor the memory of the legendary Radar of Ernst Krenkel who died in 1971 (wintering in quiet in the first wintering and then started with Zphi with Papanin on SP-1), was renamed the Hydrometeorological Observatory. NS.T. Krenkel.
According to the NES plan, Mikhail Somov, should be delivered to the most northern polar station of Russia products, fuel, supply, equipment, and specialists of the Northern Governance, to conduct a number of preventive and repair work on OGMS them. NS.T. them. Krenkel is the most responsible period in the life of polar shoes. At the same time there is a partial change of wintering workers. Adverse ice furnishings and storm weather may make it difficult to unload.
Contrary to pessimistic expectations, the swimming of our flagship passed calmly. Taking advantage of divorces among ice fields, NES "Mikhail Somov" rather quickly moved to the north, easily breaking a smooth melt ice.
Sometimes the move slows down due to a thick fog, blurring the line of the horizon and the contours of distant islands. Then suddenly suddenly, like through the threshold, we leave the fog and ice on clean mirror water, over which bright Arctic sun shines.
Relieves and spinning gentle blue around: Blue Sky, Blue Water, Single Blue Wards. Fabulous and indescribable spectacle. In the air it felt the breath of summer wrapping on the archipelago. Polar day allows you to work around the clock.
Those who first crossed the 80th parallel passed the rite of dedication to high-tender travelers, drinking a wicked salt water.
By evening, the ship came close to the isis island and stood on the raid. The arrival of the ship with new winterers and long-awaited supply is a big holiday for polar shoes, especially for those who leave for vacation.
And a reward for night despair – there will be an eternal polar day.
Heis Island is open in 1901 g. Curb Corigaler to achieve a pole by the Baldwin expedition and is named after Isaac Hayes – the American researcher of Greenland and the Canadian North. In the northeastern tip of the Observatory Cape and there is a village in which the observatory staff lived. Once, during the period of heyday, more than 200 Arctic researchers worked here, there was even a dairy farm with 4 cows.
This is reminded of us old service buildings, which are located a semiring around a small almost perfect round (with a diameter of about 300 m) and not freezing to the bottom of freshwater lake. With the beginning of the launch of the first meteorological missiles, the lake called Space.
When the screws of our helicopter ceased to rotate, the first, as is found in the polar stations, ran the shaggy and loyal assistants of wintering workers. The arms of old friends with whom did not see the whole year, fast discharge of the helicopter and the question, inquire.
– Who became the world hockey champion?
– How our football team acts in qualifying masts?
– What is going on in the world?
Yaroslav Nazarovich Omelchuk approached: "Fresh newspapers brought?"
We laugh: "Already, as a month and a half in swimming and newspapers of the same limitation".
– So for us they are the freshest!
It turns out that the polarists have no TV from May. And they were in the information vacuum. So that for them the press of one and a half-month ago is fresh news.
Head of Station Andrei Gubanov Winter together with his son Alexander, who was for the first time in such a distant Arctic. According to the father, the change is growing with a worthy, and the strength exam has a young generation withstood adequately.
– as a situation with bears, – I ask, I’m not at all idle question. We all remember the tragic case in September 2011, when the meteorologist Mikhail Erexkin died from the paws of the predator.
– This year, as never calm. On the island of weather station appear infrequently. So our work dogs were a bit. But whales sail in large numbers and walles, "Alexey Rogachev joins the conversation, who spoiled a solid beard to his twenty-five years and now he was not recognized at all.
Alexey, worked at the station at the station, decided to stay on the second wintering, especially since his native brother Anatoly arrived. Now it will be more fun and easier.
Evgeny Chepour not the first time comes to Heis Island. This time arrived at the polar stage as the head of the station. It will be difficult, they are only four. A state station twenty people, t.E. Everyone will have to work for five.
– But time flies quickly and unnoticed when you do not have free time. Came from the shift, I slept, if it turns out on duty, the main thing is that the technique does not fail, and we have come, do not rest here, – states the new head of the polar station. – The hardest thing is that there is no Internet in the polar station – communication is really limited. For someone it is an unbearable thing. That is why here is so important the coincidence of the character of a person with the nature of his activity. Especially since the polar station will not leave home after the end of the working day, leaving production problems outside the door. And the very concept of "working day" in the edge, where the polar night lasts for four months – quite another.
– Well, how did the polar night have survived?
– And we put LED spotlights, and we had light in a radius of 300 meters, as in the stadium, – Andrei Gubanov laughs. Each such searchlight with a capacity of 90 watts, and light gives a lot more than kilowatts halogen. We did not turn them until the end of March. Maybe because there were little bears.
– And in April, we are already getting used to the round-the-clock light, to the sunny nights, to the fact that for almost five months we will not see any stars. The moon, however, still appears on the blue sky in the form of a barely outlined circuit, – Enters the conversation Mechanic Station Sergey Perevus. – For all summer, however, it is hardly a week of fully clear days. And only in the spring, and she is true here "Sun Sun" – You can evaluate a truly miracle of the polar day.
– only cold for spring, in April, and in May – up to twenty degrees of frost. And the sunny, sparkling March among the winter months – the most frosty and windy, – the polar kits smile.
The work of the station’s supply helicopter continued until late at night. Employees of the Control Service Center repaired the anemumbometer M63 M-1, established a new mast, conducted preventive work on an automated meteorological complex. Communication equipment, or rather the data collection platform, unfortunately, could not be installed – the azimuth of the antenna direction is a natural obstacle, and it is impossible to remove it – this is an elevation. Also, for this reason it is impossible to install satellite equipment next to the station.
Finally finished work only in the morning, wished a new change of light wintering, took polarists, decreasing on vacation, and continued their way to Grem-Bell. There we must deliver employees CJSC "Arctic Consulting Service" and their equipment.
With the passport of the USSR
On board a talked with Yaroslav Omelchuk, a man of amazing fate.
He was born in the village of Mountains of the Rivne region, was an eleventh child in the family. After graduating from eight classes, went to study in a professional school on a plumber, at the same time he studied at the evening school. Then the service in the USSR Armed Forces, after graduation, remained at the superior, was the head of the radio station. Repeatedly participated in radio robust competitions. Twice became the champion of Ukraine, in the team competition he became a silver medalist of the USSR. After serving in the army for more than ten years he worked in DOSAAF – prepared conscripts in the USSR. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, he met by chance with his student Rasteist, who by that time he had already worked as the head of the polar station on the island of Wilkitsky. Without thinking, decided to change its life 180 degrees. I went to work to him to the station technician-meteorologist. From 1993 to 2004, a slower (what kind of kzot) was on the polar. It should be noted that Yaroslav Nazarovil on the hands was only the passport of the USSR. In 2004, he left for her first vacation, a person had no citizenship or a valid passport, only a certificate from the management that he was on TDS, and did not have the opportunity. In Ukraine, in the passport office he was explained that it would have to wait for passports and citizenship for a long time. Then he took the USSR passport again and again went to the Arctic, at this time, just restored the temporary conserved OGMS. NS.T. Krenkel on the island of Hake. Omelchuk was appointed head of polark. Ten days later, a polar bear attacked him, who had already grabbed Yaroslav Nazarovich by his hand and dragged his prey to the sea – a miracle saved, helped the natural cutter and Dog Gogh, who clung to the bear to the back paw.
The owner of the Arctic for a moment released the hand of the polarist and looked at the dog. These precious seconds were enough to the head of the station to navigate and run into the nearest house. His helicopter was taken to the Military Airfield Nurstsky, from there Sanrais in Murmansk. But in a month, no matter how it happened, he returned to the isis island, where he spent two winterings. Then again work on its first station Island Wilkitsky. Finally, in 2009 received citizenship of the Russian Federation and his long-awaited passport.
In 2011, after the closure of MG-2 Wilkitsky, wintering on the island of Visa. In 2013, loss on the isis island, now travels on vacation, in which there was not six years. Says that it is necessary to pass a medical commission, otherwise the polark will not send. Years are no longer young. Although skiing runs as young polar explorers do not get angry.
Often talking with the former polar explorers, noticed that they all have some common character traits. One of the two: or the Arctic pulls the people of a special warehouse, or she sama forms a certain type of person. The main thing is there – the problem of survival itself. In order to survive in the Arctic, it is necessary to have endurance and patience, the ability to perform heavy work for a long time, the ability to maintain vitality and I] the dities of consciousness, when the element is trying to kill all living things in you.
P.S. Dog Goga died in 2007, he was a true friend of polar shoes and remained faithful to his debt. In memory of him on the polar station on the wall hangs his portrait.
Arctic gods were merciful to us, after a day, the NES "Mikhail Somov" left the archipelago hospitable this time. The next day, we reached the island of a visa, took the polarists, builders and took the course to a new land (AE small carmarkets).