Last paradise on earth
A typical question that ask me, learning that I returned from Indonesia: "How there people live? Poor?" You have to drupt: "In the mountainous, they say, there was no one there".
Do not think that further i’m going to reason about the relativity of the concept "material values". Just happened so that we know very little about this country. At one time, President Sukarno installed the communist regime of the Chinese sample here, but in 1965, with Marxism, it was finished with a huge number of victims. Since then, we have talked about Indonesia only casual, and now they are remembered only at the moments of local disasters. For many, there will be a revelation that it ranks fourth in the world in terms of population, spreading at seventeen thousands of islands. But I’m going to tell only about one thing – about what is called "Pearl of Malay Archipelago".
The only guide in Russian, from which you can learn something about Bali, – French "Le Petit Fute", telling about any country of the world first of all from a gastronomic point of view. Something like: "Here is the most ancient temple, the best overview of which opens from the restaurant on the contrary, where you can taste huge shrimp with pineapple pies. Wines are expensive, but good quality. Host – China".
Understand correctly: I myself am in the slaves of the stomach – but not to the extent to go, as they say, for ten (thousand) mesh kisli. Pineapple shrimps – Secondily. so.
Flight from Moscow a total of seventeen hours. First Stop – Dubai International Airport, where you can warm up in a huge store Duty Free. The next cutting path leads to Java. When crossing the equator, the winged ship commander congratulates passengers with this significant event, and some even hands a special diploma. Next – Transfer in Jakarta to the local airline plane "Garuda", And finally, Bali Island.
From the porthole window, it looks like a larger green fish lying sideways. The role of the fin is the southern Badung Peninsula, on the shores of which the beaches of the three famous Balinese resorts stretch: lagoon coral sanula, shining night lights of Cute and respectable Nusa Dua. After a couple of days of stay here, these abstract geographical names are becoming the same tangible as for Muscovite, for example, words "Taganka", "Smolenca" or "Pokrovka", And the island itself becomes cozy, like a center inside a boulevard rings.
I declare full responsibility: the best hotels than on Bali, I have not seen anywhere. For example, "Bali Cliff", Built on a tired cliff, from the top of which you can trace the entire path of the multi-kilometer wave from barely visible place of its origin to coastal reef, where it is broken by billions of rainbow splashes. Down, on the beach, leads a transparent tunnel, inside which runs the glass elevator. It is true, however, consider one item. Grabbing a mask and flippers and descending to the ocean, you can not detect water at the very place where yesterday they dived carelessly and splashed. Do not despair: the ocean will return. The hotel hangs the exact schedule of sings and, accordingly, tides, waiting for which you can swim in the outdoor pool. When immersed in it there is a swimming effect in the open ocean: the side is combined with limitless water stroke.
I do not even take the hotel interior – all these bronze handles and marble legs. Just reveal one secret. I visited Bali along with the leaders of the Moscow travel agency "Province", who agreed with the host party about essential discounts for Russians. Of course, and now a trip to Indonesia will cost somewhat more expensive than a trip to Bulgaria. But the difference in the quality of rest and impressions is incomparable with the price difference.
Balinese landscape is changing over each turn of the winding highway. Twenty-meter "fingers" Coconut palm trees, rice terraces, bamboo, mountain passes, banana plantations, noisy waterfalls. Stone structures decorated with threads, multi-tiered altars, figures of mythical monsters, statues of perfumes on roadside roads. Each house has a wet by the wind oblique bamboo pole decorated with garland colors. Dragon masks put up for sale, poultry images, sculpture of frogs in human growth and for some reason under umbrellas.
Live marties feed with hands, right like squirrels in Sokolniki. True, lingering by their habits, should not lose vigilance. Human creature can suddenly snatch a handbag or a camera, and from ear – earrings. It is possible to get back things only in exchange for your favorite monkey delicacy – nuts whose cries are traded in the neighborhood Local boys. Once I even had the chance to see two Dresser dragons – in fact, lizards, but the size of alligators. Reptiles engaged in love with passion not inhabited by cold-blooded, and not at all in a vulgar, naturalistic sense. The male taped his wrinkled girlfriend with a webbed paw and rubbed the scaly breast about her rough back. Finding, I sent the camera to fall out "Large", But in time I remembered that this world’s largest Varan feeds on wild pigs, killing them with a tale from the first blow.
In general, after half an hour, a feeling of permanent carnival. The procession is moving: women in gold paste and with fruit pyramids on heads – offerings. Followed by a man in white robes and in motley sarong skirts. The color of clothing and belts differs depending on the belonging to a certain caste: Brahmins (priests), Kshatriev (warriors), Vaisya (officials) and a sudra (other people who make up 90 percent of the population). Each caste is talking in his own language, but the lowest representatives are required to use the language of their interlocutors.
By the way, the white man first seems to be the Indonesian language is easy for understanding. Since 1948, Latin graphics have been used in Indonesia. Word "buku", For example, it means "book", "kantor" – "Institution", "air" – "water". The multiple number is formed by a double repetition of the word, for example "books" – "buku-buku".
Availability This is deceptive. For example, I saw somehow sign: "Toko Bebas Bea" – And immediately transferred it: "Only baby wells". "What, – I decided, – I need them?" – waved his hand and passed by. And in vain. Then it turned out that it was "Shop duty-free trade".
The capital of Bali is called Denpasar. Cute town of stores and benches, where instead of trams and trolleybuses, horse-drawn crews are running down the streets, harvested with horse races – favorite entertainment of Japanese tourists. However, not everything is so idylly. At the peak hours, such a mad ride begins that the street is impossible. The main means of movement of the ordinary Balinese – a motorcycle. It can be seen on it at once – with an elderly grandmother and a breast child at the same time, a police officer, a postman, a doctor or an official in Sarong and a tie waving in the wind. Motorcyclists accumulate at the intersections and when the green light is turned on, you touch from the spot. For some reason, most of them are in helmets, exactly repeating the form of the SS, the second world, and the swastika is still drawn on some. At the first moment, the roof goes a little, but soon you know that "Fascist sign", Inside the other side, in the countries of Hinduism – a symbol of health and prosperity.
And in general, Balnitsa – meek and unlobs. In 1597, Dutch landed here and, the struggle pushed the beauty of local women who went "Topless" – that is, with naked breasts, won the island. The only form of resistance to colonizers was massive ritual suicides – "Puputan". Going towards "Meaning schools of European civilization" In festive clothes and with flowers in hair, Raji, Brahmans and the courtesy of the drums believed in the chest curved Yavansky daggers.
True, one day (already in 1896) at the nearest to Bali Island of Lombok flashed. And led him you know who? Russian subjects Vasily Malygin (or Mamaligin). The Dutch caught the rebellion and sentenced to twenty years in prison. For three years, he was sitting in a falsion alone in Surabaye, then he fled to Russia, lived there for several years and again it was illegally returned to Bali, where his trace was finally lost. There is information that he married a local beauty – Anyway, today on the island you can meet people with the Nebali Familia Maligan.
Women here are in fact attractive – with soft features of the face, expressive eyes, light chocolate leather and flexible forms developed by wearing things on the head. Unfortunately, even at the beginning of the sixties – apparently not to tempt new invaders, – Sukarno issued a law prohibiting the chest, and even distributed half a million multi-colored blouse-kebaya.
To no longer return to this topic, I want to warn it: unlike other countries of Southeast Asia, there is no nightlife in Thai understanding – girls of easy behavior, "Massage" salons and stripteases you will not find there, but you will be calm for a family reputation.
In Denpasar there is a bus station, from where the route minibuses are sent to all ends of the island, called "BEMO". Rent of this "BEMO" all day will cost dollars in thirty. Of course, this does not mean that the owner of the car immediately calls this amount. If you think that bargaining below your dignity is the opportunity to ride and for one hundred. If there is a driver’s license, you can rent a motorcycle or jeep, although I would not advise this to do: unusual left-sided movement on narrow roads in one row requires a certain skill. If you want – take it better for rent a ferry, running between nearby islands, – True, in this case, you need rights to managing the yacht. Only on these islands (and more anywhere) you can see a unique picture: sea gardens. Locals are grown on the bottom whether edible, or healing algae. The entire coastal surface of the water is divided into areas bounded by columns and flags.
In order to inspect all Balinese sights, you will need three years: about twenty thousand village, communal, clan and state churches on Bali. If your vacation is shorter – visit at least two. First – Tanah Lot, which is located on a rock full of water during the tide, and looks amazing in the rays of the setting sun – here they make a pilgrimage to bring gifts to terrible sea demons. Then Besakin is the most sacred Balinese temple located on a grief volcano Agung, at an altitude of about a thousand meters above sea level. Do not worry: At the foot, enterprising motorcyclists are on duty, which per dollar will take you up to the most gate.
Just do not forget that without Balinese costume can not be found in the temple in no case. All the same, that in the synagogue without a hat or, on the contrary, in the mosque – in shoes. Before entering the holy place, the guest can get a sarong, leaving a small amount on the way back. I must say that the bearded and messenger Europeans are terribly fucked, seeing each other in skirts, and begins to be photographed.
Being on Bali, even with a lot of desire it is difficult not to catch some holiday: there are 230 in the official calendar, not counting the local. True, there is also such that happens only once a hundred years. He is called Eca Dasa Rudra, and in our century came on March 8, 1963. Before that whole six months, all the Balians were busy with the manufacture of thousands of sacrifices. Orchestras and dance groups rehearsed in the villages. Tons of combustible substances were dried in the sun for use in fireworks.
But a few days before the designated date, another pyrotechnics worked. Dormant Agung unexpectedly stumbled, taking a 20-meter tumor lava, stones, hot sand and ash. At this time, eight hundred people prayed in the temple, and no one rose from his knees to escape. Miracle happened: none of them suffered. The stream of lava raveed before the temple and heated it, destroying everything alive on many kilometers around.
The holiday was postponed to 1979. This time, to soften the mighty strength of the god of volcanoes, at the very top of Agung, the narrow steep paths raised a few bulls, summed up to the edge of the crater and, after prayers and sprinkling, sacred water, dropped into his fire heating.
The most joyful event is the Balinese New Year, which comes on March 30. But first notes the niei – the day when evil spirits go outside. Phones and radio shows all over the country, radio and televisions are silent, mail and taxis do not work. People are sitting at home, without burning fire and without cooking food. Brand aircraft turbines, shipping gentle gear. Even tourists are forbidden to leave the limits of their hotels. But the next morning the whole island is simply walking from universal fun.
Balinese religion is called Agama Hinda. This form of Hinduism, connected to animism and Buddhism, exists here. At the top of Olympas is the god of Sangchyang video, but there is also its own "Trinity", Consisting of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu. And besides, about a thousand other gods. The main book of the Holy Scriptures – Indian Epos Ramayana, written two thousand years ago, it – "Oriada" and "Odyssey" At the same time, but even longer and complicated in composition, with a huge number of parallel plot lines. If in a nutshell: the struggle of good with evil.
Do not be discouraged if you do not bring to see on the street or in the Temple of Balinese dancing on the plots of Ramayana – they are shown even in hotels during dinner. The evil sorcerer of Rangda fights the mythical animal Baron, General Hanuman notes the triumph of his army monkey, immaculate girls depict the descent of heavenly nymph.
In accordance with his religion, each Balinese consists of contrasts and, in the depths of the soul, remains superstitious. Only one example: when the coffin is carried with the deceased, it is constantly shaking and spin to the soul confiscated by these manipulations did not find the way back home.
It is believed that death is only the intermediate form of being, the transition to a happier essence. The body is placed in a sarcophagus having an animal form corresponding to each caste: Brahmins – Bull, Kshatriyam – Fish, Vaisya – Bat, Speud – just a box wrapped with colored paper. The coffin is installed on the top of the bamboo tower, which sometimes reaches the height of ten floors. Thanks to all these concerns, the soul, coming out of the mouth of the deceased, should rush right in paradise. Catafalk accompany a cheerful procession and an orchestra xylophone. Everyone laughs and joke – after all, the deceased finally gains freedom.
Good reincarnation promotes hot cremation. With the onset of darkness, a mourning structure flashes a bright flame. Then the ashes are collected in the urn, carry to the nearest water flow – to the river or to the sea, where they are waving in the wind. So the soul becomes finally free.
But there is one village (it is called Trunyan), in which even more ancient funeral custom has been preserved. The tribesmen fold their deceased on the shore to the joy of griffs. You can only get there on a boat – from three sides the village surrounds the impassable mountains, and the fourth goes to the lake of the Beduchl. Knowing that tourists nourish an unhealthy interest in non-living people, Trunyan Kharoni sometimes scribble: they will be brought to curious to the cemetery, and there they require stunning money from them, threatening to leave in the company with corpses.
Having been there personally, I repeat: the last refinement is a terrible picture of all the stages of the decomposition of the dead bodies. Vereshchagin here is resting – the immeasurable amount of the most genuine skulls is exposed on the stone steps of caring descendants.
If you do not consider yourself necrophile – dedicate this day by marine sports, which abounds any Balinese resort. Swimming on windsurfing, rush on water skiing, fly on a parachute or plunge into the wetsuit in the underwater kingdom. You can even visit the water park with all his "Bananas", Toboganov I "Tarzankami".
Footing appetite, remember, finally, about the French guide, recommending Nasi Goreng as snacks – fried rice with cloves, vegetables and baked eggs, on hot babies, Pesar – Giant shrimps wrapped in a banana leaf, and for dessert – Nanas Goren – Pineapple Pudding with candied coconut. Tasty?
Now you can walk through shops, each of which is a warehouse rolled by antiques and unique souvenirs. Balinese – People with the soul of artists. Masks, dolls, batik, silver, braid, which is sold here at ridiculous prices, will decorate any apartment. And the last advice.
On the day of the mist, stand early and pass the barefoot on the beach, inhaling the iodi fragrance and stepping through the spray crabs. You must be lucky. In a loose sand, flowing through the streams, like protalynes in the snow, you will definitely find a large marine sink fantastically twisted shape. No, no, do not rush: it’s not at all that we will cost us hundred dollars. Just once, putting your ear to her pink half-open lips, you will hear the exciting whisper. It will be the island of Bali – the last paradise on earth, as Dzhavaharlal Nehru called him.