Magic of the Greek City. Museums of the city – Thessaloniki, Greece – Tourist Blog
Each time, buying tickets to the museum or to the exhibition, I remember the saying of Erhart Kestener that "Stupid travelers attend museums, smart – visit the taverns". And every time I am convinced how this statement is incorrectly in fact.
I believe that museums, for the most part, are a kind of measure of cultural level, both countries and all the people, its inhabable. Therefore, leaving abroad, I always, regardless of the circumstances, I try to allocate time to visit the "main" museums of the city and country. And there is another reason why I am pulling into the "storerooms" of public assembly of carefully selected works of art: in many museums of Europe, and Greece is no exception, allowing the exhibits to be photographed and touched "history".
True, it is sometimes very difficult to make a good frame, being a unprofessional photographer. Often in the frame instead of the object appear glare from glass or illumination, or unnecessary shadows. Nevertheless, snapshots, though non-pieces, but in memory of visiting the museum still remain.
For the months spent in thessaloniki managed to visit more than a dozen museums, but I will tell only about those who left in the shower cultural and emotional-positive trace.
The first two "classic" museum in this rating: Archaeological and Museum of Byzantine Culture.
For more than 50 years (since 1962), it is located in one of the best buildings of architectural modernism in Greece. Initially, the museum was created to accommodate in its walls of all archaeological finds from the excavations of the Attica of Greece. However, during the exposition time, the museum has been enriched with exhibits from all over Greece. And now in the exhibitions of the museum presented archaeological assemblies from all over Macedonia and individual collections of ancient art. The collection includes the objects of religious cult, a huge number of sculptures, all kinds of finds from prehistoric tabs to finds from the Rome market and palace complexes found during the excavations. The central place in the collection is occupied by the exposition of the treasure of the tomb of the king of Macedonia Philip II. The museum also exhibited fragments of the architecture of the ionic church of the end of the VI century to N.NS., The sculptures of the archaic, classical and Hellenistic era. Many gold and gold-plated decoration items dated VI – II in.v. to N.NS.
In 2003, the museum was renovated and equipped with modern technologies. New-fashioned "chips" made their contribution by making a visit to the museum memorable not only interested in the history of adults, but also to children and teenagers, and even those who are not at all interested in the story.
The latter exposition of archaeological finds consists of 6 permanent exhibitions:
"By the birth of cities",
"Macedonia from the VII century to n.NS. to late antiquity ",
"Thessaloniki – the capital of Macedonia",
"Gold Macedonian" (the most, in my opinion, interesting and memorable exposition), and
"Field, House, Garden, Grave".
Museum of Byzantine Culture
Pride of Greece, because this is the only museum in the world, fully dedicated to Byzantine culture and art. The museum is widely represented by art, ideology, religion and the life of the Society of thessaloniki and Macedonia in the Byzantine and post-city era. Located on 3 thousand square meters.M The permanent exposition of the museum covers the period from late antiquity (3-4 centuries.NS.) before the fall of the Byzantine Empire and the beginning of the Turkish rule (15th century), including frescoes, icons, mosaic, marble sculptures, elements of Christian burials, paintings and objects of religious purposes. Undoubtedly, this is one of the most modern Museums of Greece, offering a complete picture of Byzantine culture based on innovative exhibitions and multimedia expositions.
Afterward. With museums work cafes and shops. In the corridors connecting the halls, there are comfortable benches for recreation. Museum employees willingly share their knowledge, answering any visitor’s question. If there is time and desire, you can visit both museums in one day, according to a single entrance ticket. And for those who are fundamentally important, I will write that savings from buying a single ticket will be 2 euros per adult, children (up to 18 years) visiting for free. That is, if you look for a reason for the campaign to the museum, to enjoy yourself as a person, he will definitely find.
The following on the list are three museums of contemporary art.
"I saw the masterpieces of art, struck by the energy of passion …" described his feelings of the standal during the visit to Florence. Walking on the chairs of museums of modern art, studying the work of modern artists, Standal’s syndrome "Earn" is very and very problematic, but the ocean of genuine emotions is still guaranteed.
State Museum of Contemporary Art
The museum was founded in 1997, setting down in the building of the renovated monastery complex "Mona Lazarariston". Since 2001, the museum belongs to another exhibition hall – "Warehouse B1" in the port, on the embankment. In essence, this is another big museum, with the most interesting exposition of modern painting.
The Museum Meeting began with the acquisition of the largest collection of Russian avant-garde "Kostaki. Russian Avangard ».
A bit of history. Georgy Kostaka, born in Russia Greek, collected in the 1940s – 1970s a collection of Russian avant-garde and presented its most significant part of the State Tretyakov Gallery. The small part of the collection, which George Kostaki with the permission of the USSR authorities taken out in 1978 to Greece, was enough to establish a museum of contemporary art in Thessaloniki, the only Museum in the world today, the main exposition of which is Russian avant-garde.
The Kostaki collection consists of almost 1300 works of art – paintings, drawings, structures, products from such well-known representatives of the Russian avant-garde, like Casimir Malevich, Vasily Kandinsky, Lyubov Popova, Vladimir Tatlin, Alexander Rodchenko, Ivan Kluz, Solomon Nikritin, Olga Rosanova, Varvara Stepanova, Nadezhda Udaltsova, Mikhail Matyushin, Gustav Curice, as well as tens of others, the art of which was largely forgotten.
Georgy Kostaki in the girlfriend gathered the creation of these artists, literally saving their work from full destruction, "pulling out" from oblivion. War years will be held marked with many changes before the recognition will come to dozens of Russian avant-garde names.
In addition to the collection of Kostaki, the museum belongs to the presented as a gift, almost 200 picturesque and sculptural works of both Greek and foreign artists.
In expressive entertainment, in spite of and freedom of light-sound painting time flies unnoticed, giving the raging ocean emotions. What is not here: and the infinitive space, penetrated by bright sunlight; and the dreams to the images are asked and ghost; and vision shrouded in the finest fog; and calm, measured life. In addition, all this riot of forms and images is mixed with artists on a sophisticated color feeling, on the inclination of many of them to Grotesque or on a romantic exotic, not to mention some masterpieces written by "cold" paints using the most complex linear construction. Preferably, nevertheless, it is just impossible to describe it.
– Look, a peasant to Lenin’s grandfather looked like, – I say, stopping at the next creation of some avant-gardeist.
– Which grandfather looks like? – I did not understand the young lady.
– On Vladimir Ilyich, – I clarify.
– What in.AND. – Clear, and grandfather whose? – Trying to get to the truth of a teenage girl.
– Folk, – barely restraining laughter, I answer.
– And this is a snowy woman with which he is dancing, his proletarian girlfriend?
– Think it is kruzhskaya in the image? Let’s read the tablet to start ..
– For sure, he is: "Lenin and a snowman". Well, a very interesting union, the main thing is unexpected ..
But, there is a museum of work that is remembered for a long time. Not remembered by their "carnavality" or irony, I would say, remembered by meticulous realism. Among them, Ivan Kluz and his work "Portrait of the artist’s wife" or "Oval composition with a guitar" of the work of love Popova, where at the same time the great happiness of creativity, and the reflections of spiritual experiences, and the tragedy of personal life.
Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art
This is another Museum of Contemporary Art in Thessaloniki. It is located on the territory of the International Fair. Not referring to this place as "VDNH", orient in the hospitable city became easier. The museum was founded in 1979. When creating the Museum of Government, Greece pursued the only goal – the museum is created to assist Greek and international modern art, as well as to promote Greek culture abroad. Initially, the basis of his collection amounted to 30 paintings of famous artists donated by Alexandros Iolas. Later, following his example, many collectors and artists began to give a museum of artwork from private collections. Today, the Museum’s meeting has already more than 2,000 exhibits, including picturesque canvases, engravings, sculptures, movies and photos. For 13 years now, the museum has a library that contains about 3,000 different publishing books and brochures issued in different years. Mimolet desire to extract old books turned into a two-hour study of the most interesting material on the art of Greece.
Of course, the "new" art conquers unrestrained freedom, carries and captures. Rhythm, emotional color, expression of lines and spots of its picturesque compositions causes powerful sensations similar to feelings, awakened music and poetry. But I know that I can only cause lightweight heartbeat, Titian, Caravaggio, Van Gogh, Bellini, Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli, and still sculptural works of Bernini or Cannov. Here I am, "Incoming", and nothing to change.
If time allows, the following museums can be listed as recommended to visiting.
The museum presents the entire modern Greek story. Its expositions are devoted to the Civil War and the participation of Greece in various military conflicts. It reflects all significant events for the modern history of Greece: the revolution of 1821, the Macedonian struggle, the Balkan War, the First World War, the Greek-Italian War of 1940-41, the Battle of Crete, National Resistance … Therefore, it is not surprising that its exposition consists of photographs, uniforms of the Greek army, rifles, daggers, full collection of military orders and medals of Greece, ships and weapons, cards, mailing cards and many other. And in the courtyard of the museum, in open areas, quietly "lives" a collection of combat vehicles, tanks and fighters of the Second World War.
Walking between the exhibits of the museum, noticed one feature: the male part of the population whether it is an ubiquitous baby or their dad, who have not yet forgotten childhood, or a vintage type of man, everything, without exception, is chinno and importantly examine the military technique, carefully reading information and only girls, Once at the museum, immediately start playing "in the war". Time passed since we returned home to their homeland, but I could not solve this "phenomenon". But concluded that the museum is interesting absolutely to all: both children and adults, and boys, and girls. In general, everyone!
City art gallery
Another amazingly interesting place. Gallery was founded in 1966. Initially, it was a modest municipal library division. But 20 years later, Gallery moved to a unique building known as "Villa Morda".
A bit of history. The house, built in 1905, is an architectural monument and an excellent example of an eclectic style with a rich mixture of elements of neoclassicism, Renaissance, Baroque and Modern. Even decorative interior decorations with preserved wood thread fragments. Forers’ family lived here in 1930 – 1940 g.G..
More than 1000 pieces of painting, sculptures and graphics of modern Greek artists are collected in the art gallery. All works are divided into collections: a collection of local artists, a collection of engravings, a collection of icons, a newly skilled collection of works of art and a sculpture collection. How respecting himself the gallery has a specialized library with a reading room.
Original Museum. Located in the building of the former military station. Station with which Greek soldiers left for the front. The building itself, built at the end of the XIX century, was not exploited for a long time, so in 1996 the Greek organization of railways gave an abandoned station of the Association of Railways to Organize the Museum.
Several years have been restoration work. The building managed to return his initial, unique architectural style. The solemn opening of the museum took place in 2000. Today, visitors to the museum can see the office of the head of the station, personal belongings, the shape of railway workers, the maps of all Railways of Greece, work tools, technical guidelines, information about all old steam and diesel engines of Greek railways. Among the exhibits of the museum you can see the railway tickets of the beginning of the last century, documents, old photos, alarm and telegraph equipment. Here is also presented part of furniture from wagons of the Greek Royal Family. But the main pride of the museum, if you believe legend, is a wooden chair, at which in 1913, Eleftherios Venizelos, Greek State and Political Worker (Athenian Airport carries his name), and, of course, the East Express Restaurant car yard. An insurmountable desire to sit in the soft chair of the Vagon-Restaurant for the root is supposed by vigilant guards of order.
Kemal Ataturk Museum
In Thessaloniki – the hometown of the famous Turkish policy, reformer, statesman and military leaders, as well as the first President of the Turkish Republic and the founder of the modern Turkish state of Kemal Ataturk – after the restoration resumed his memorial museum.
In this house, Kemal Ataturk appeared in 1881. By the century of the Turkish leader, a three-story building, which is quite the same decent inner courtyard, was renovated for the first time. Then the facade returned his original pink color. Now, after the next restoration and updating of the interior, the house looks more than worthy. Most objects of the situation are genuine, and the missing exhibits brought from Turkey. Walls are decorated with a variety of photos of Ataturk and the documents associated with his life.
Frankly, the museum is interesting, but only for lovers of museums. Working air conditioners nicely cooled started to "melt" under the active sun body. Smiling brutal view man with photos raised on the walls of the house, raised the mood. And the fact that on pretty sofas with cute stuffing can not sit, so nowhere was written ..
Just for information: Ataturk Museum in Thessaloniki, not the only museum, similar museums are organized in Istanbul, Antalya and other cities of the country.
Jewish Museum of Greece
Near the Constitution Square, in the Jewish Quarter, almost in the center of Thessaloniki, in the building of the beginning of the 19th century, is located a museum telling about the history of the Jewish community of Greece.
The exposition of the museum consists of a permanent collection and temporary photo exhibitions. The whole museum, as it seemed to me, conditionally was divided into thematic zones. Exposures are presented: "Jewish necropolis", "History of Jews", Gallery "Folklore" with cute baubles and beautiful outfits.
A separate exposure is devoted to terrible events of the Holocaust 1941 – 1943. Perhaps one of the greatest for perception, especially in the hot season.
The library of the museum carefully stores archival materials and rare books, published in thessaloniki from the 16th century.
How did you get into the museum. Hot sun, and other days in Greece are extremely rare, walking in the shady alleys of parks, I suddenly made opening for myself: it turns out that there is a huge number of old estates in the city (mansions, villas) – buildings built on the 18th. Deciding that we are not in a hurry, we start a photo session. Photographed more than a dozen "age" buildings tired by the sun and walk, conveniently suitable on a bench under a lush crown of an old tree in a small garden, with beautifully decorated flower beds, alleys and narrow tracks. A bottle with water, albeit in the bag, but managed to warm up, so I didn’t quench thirst. I wanted something icy, well, or very cold.
Looking at the "new object", my hands themselves stretched to the camera. Everything, the last shots, and go to the cafe to drink FrapPE with the "Ice" water. Posing at the door of the mansion, she, this very door, suddenly opens, and the ringing female voice invites you to look into. Museum?! We hit the next museum. Maybe a water bottle under air conditioning to leave? Although cool. "Ohhi, Ohhi," says a museum employee by a pretty voice, takes a bottle and disappears. After examining the expositions, at the exit, I "present" my bottle. I don’t believe your hands! She lay in the freezer! "Efharieto and a hundred kata" – unexpectedly remember foreign words for gratitude.
Having written at the very beginning that for the period of stay in Greece, more than a dozen museums managed to visit Greece, I didn’t even climb. If rest in Greece is another opportunity for you to see and find out as much as possible, and you have a "free" time from rest, I propose to visit another number of interesting museums located in the city of Thessaloniki.
"Oh, how many discoveries of wonderful …" … Believe me, very much!
White Tower and Museum
A bit of history. According to historians, the tower was built on the project of the famous Ottoman architect Mimara Sinan, the author of numerous fortification structures. There is a version that the White Tower was erected on the site of the old tower built by the Byzantines, the mention of which is found in the writings of the Archbishop of Eustiatia Solunsky, who came out (more correctly, who were spent) to the present day from the 12th century.
Over the centuries, the tower was part of the city wall separating the Jewish quarter of the city from Jewish and Muslim cemeteries. Used the tower too differently: she served both the fort, and a barrackm, and a prison. And not always wore "white" color. Almost 80 years, by decree of Sultan Mahmud II, the tower was held on the "roof" of the tower, there were indicative mass executions of prisoners. "Bloody Tower" or "Red Tower" – its name in those heavy for the people. At the end of the 19th century, urban walls were demolished, and at the beginning of the 20th century, after the first Balkan war and the accession of thessaloniki to Greece, the tower was twisted by spending a symbolic rite of "cleansing".
Created in the walls of the former fort and the former prison of the museum is worthy of all silence. First, it is very important, air conditioners are installed in the premises. Secondly, in almost all "rooms – cameras" installed modern equipment based on innovative technologies and multimedia expositions, which makes a tour of the White Tower a very exciting occupation.
Museum of the ancient Greek, Byzantine and Postinisant musical instruments
Museum of musical instruments is located in the historic district of Ladadika city. In addition to the exhibition hall, the museum includes a library, an electronic archive of scoreholders, a department of music studies.
Museum exhibits more than 200 musical instruments. Among the ancient Greek wooden tools there are no originals; instead, modern reconstructions are presented, created (revived) according to the fragments of archaeological finds. Most of the museum tools are "equipped" with audio materials, which is certainly very convenient and interesting: you can not only see, but also hear the tool. Lyrical, charming, unexpected … in a word – alive.
As often, among rare exhibits, there are particularly valuable – this is a seven-string forming, ancient string tool of Greek singers, type of lyric or kifara, Minoan era and Australia, ancient Greek musical instrument, a distant predecessor of modern oboe (according to legend, Aphrodite herself tried to play it tool), 5th century BC. NS.
Respect Masters and those who breathe life in this idea.
Museum of photos
The museum collection includes almost one and a half thousand works of Greek and foreign photographers: photos, negatives, glass plates and T. D.
Wandering through the halls of the museum, I began to understand that the art has a reverse side. That it not only treats, but can undermine the mental state: I quietly began to understand that I don’t know how to photograph at all, and that those work (photos), which I was infinitely proud of, even dilettanic to call it difficult. But being in life with an optimist, I decided that this campaign in the museum, as a start to improve.
I think this list is enough, so as not to spoil my holiday holiday and do not overload the impressions of solar Greece and the hospitable city of Thessaloniki.