Magical Kazakhstan Auto Design
It was decided not to change themselves and try to get close to nature and people. On the road took all the necessary hiking equipment: tent, sleeping bag, gas burner, dishes and t.NS. In April, in April, I am in the company of an incredible companion Sai from Astana and accompanied by comrades in the spirit of the driver-guide Dmitry made a march, an 8-day auto desk at the most amazing corners of the Almaty region.
Day 1. River or, Petroglyphs Tamghaw-Tas
We headed to the first place in our list. Handing to the valley of the river or, took the watch stop – all the fault were the first spring poppies, which seemed to be blossomed specifically for our arrival.
A little rejecting the spirit surrounded by poppies, we went to look at Petroglyphs Tamghaw-Tas. They are huge rock paintings with the image of Buddhist deities and many inscriptions. The contours are so clear that they involuntarily think about, and whether they are ancient?
Then they went to watch the gorge where we had to stay for the night in the tents. From the gorge we rose up to make a walk around the surrounding mountains, or, more precisely, to say, the hills. Types from there open just fabulous. Upstairs we came across the poppy field, how glad the eye was happy with such paints!
Sat down on one of the hills. On the clock was about 12 in the morning, and therefore, somewhere in his native Petersburg my colleagues were still seated on our workplaces. And I chewed Lavash and understood that this is the most classroom afternoon life in recent years.
We went down to the car to drive along or and find a secluded place under the shadow of the tree. On the shore of Dmitry found an awesome pebble for me, which I brought with my home to my memory. While we saved in search of other trophies, passed by falcon and a clear movement caught fish from the river, but then I need it contemptuously threw it back.
On the hills we climbed when the light was no longer so bright. Bends of the coastline or tali in themselves such trajectories from which the head was circle. When the sun began to sit down, we returned back to the gorge to split our first camp in this journey. Everything went successfully, and the evening we completed the tea, conversations and views on the stars. The weather was delightful that only strengthened the first experience of travel. And how nice it was to realize that everything was just beginning.
Day 2. Park "Altyn Emel" singing Barhan
Our path lay in Altyn-Emiel National Park, it was to see singing Barhan and hear his famous voice. The weather was dry, so there were every chance of successful implementation of plans.
The park is allowed only accompanied by huntsman, it is associated with animal protection. Only on certain roads can be moved to the park, in the rest of the spikes, the spikes are crushed to stop the liberty, also after 7 pm in some areas are prohibited by the passage of cars due to the included headlamps that can confuse wild inhabitants. In the office of the park it became clear that our Guide Dmitry here is a frequent guest, the administration trusts him, so we went to the park without accompaniment, and this is a big luck!
It was decided to conquer Barhan in the rays of the evening sun. Mentally prepared that in all places (completely in all) will be sand, we moved to conquer Barhan. The path was not very difficult, but a strong wind, blowing the sand from the ridge, was a little nervous. I have never seen anything like that! You go on the sandy edge of the barran, while on the one hand you see the familiar river or, and on the other hand – the mountains. Such a combination of different images of nature in one place is a real miracle.
We climbed the highest point of the vehana and prepared for a descent. Pre-Dmitry gave us CSU. First, it should be descended on the fifth point, you can do a good furrow in the sand plane, which will certainly force him to sing. Secondly, we need to descend to all three at the same time, without lagging behind each other and not distilling, because the furrows with close arrangement give a much more impressive sound. We learned all the rules, sat down, and on the expense three rushed down … Only we started our way, as I heard it. It was a loud voice of nature, who spoke with us. It was like the sound of a copper brass orchestra. It was it, an incredible natural phenomenon, the ringing of singing vehicle!
Day 3. Singing Barhahan: Second climbing, Mount Katutau
Stop at 4 in the morning, went to look at singing Barhan in the rays of the morning sun. It was doubly nice to realize that on that day we first made pilgrimage to the top. The sand plane was smooth and untouched, with the exception of traces of lizards and some painline animals. Near the main ridge of the verahna, his younger brothers were visible.
When I looked back and saw Dmitry in the distance, I could appreciate the scale of this grand natural creation and how small and insignificant man. I think, in pursuit of superfacial personality, everyone is useful to descend from heaven to Earth and look at yourself and its place in this world from. This perfectly disrupts and makes the numerous layers of unnecessary husk, close to something truly meaningful.
When we just went to the valley of Mount Katouau, some splashes in the overall landscape of dark chocolate colors were immediately rushed into the eyes. As our guide, Dmitry, we went to where an alien spacecraft was left. It was an unthinkable form of mining education, so resembling modern art objects: smooth forms, one flowing into another, intricate convexities and depressions. It is impossible to believe that all this appeared by itself. This is a challenge for human eyes to collect so different objects into a single composition.
We should have been sent further, because ahead was Aktau Mount, next to which the camp had to break for overnight stay. The more we approached, the stronger I wanted to remember this moment, write it down, as a picture, that every time, closing my eyes, it was possible to submit this magnificence again. The road led us to amazing Mount Aktau. Here you understand how much scarf was your fantasy, the brain refused to believe in the reality of the picture that we appeared before us.
Without exaggeration I can declare that life is now divided by before and after. There is something that you knew about the diversity of the world earlier, and there is something that has opened at this very moment.
The team came out of the car in stupor. The book of Strugatsky "Picnic on the side of the sidelines" immediately came to mind. We found themselves in the "zone" in which every item was left as if. Questions were spinning in my head: "How? As possible?"
My fellow travelers went to Say, settled by this place, did not want to stop. But the sun was already sitting, a strong wind was walled in the gorge, and therefore we still needed to find a place for camp, so we turned back. We walked all the time turning around, as if afraid to miss something important.
In search of shelter from the wind, we saw a small building on the hill. It was a house in which Henman’s night spend the night when visitors to the park want to stay in a particular object. It seems that all this evening conversations were devoted to how big we were lucky. To be alone in this place, and also sitting in a house in which the double-glazed windows combined with the rope instead of the castle – is it not a gift for fate?
Day 4. Altyn-Emel Park: Mars walk
We got up at 5 am, had breakfast, trampled hunts and went to the morning walk on Aktau. It was decided to go to the Red Region, this color of the danger of us was manil with a terrible force. Going closer, we were able to consider what this burgundy land represents. It turned out, the breed has a fragile sandy structure, and intricate drawings can be easily destroyed. But I hope no one will never.
It started fine rain, but we could not scare such natural phenomena. True, very quickly the earth of all colors fastened to shoes, and it was the most beautiful dirty shoes that I had to see. We climbed to the first top of the Red Hill, from such paints a head went around.
When we stood there in the rain and wind, there was a distinct feeling how important this very moment. The celebration of a moment reigned in the soul, when you, the associations, in associations, images and species, are trying to realize that all this really happens and happens to you.
The humidity began to take its own, gradually things were wet, so it’s time to return back. There was a long way, the next point of the route was the famous Charan Canyon. Through the headphones to my ears, the David Bowie "Life On Mars" has never happened to my ear. Thoughts about Mars did not leave throughout the time spent in the vicinity of Mount Aktau.
We left for the main road, which had passed by the village of Basshi, how suddenly … stalled. While Dmitry was looking for help, the evening came, we spent the night in the tents on the side.
We decided to adjust the route. Now the way lay not on the Charan Canyon, because it was Saturday, and we would catch there all crowds of tourists. We held a course for Aul Sati to admire local lakes.
Day 5. Aul Sata
In Aul Sata, that on the way to the Kollzay lakes, we arrived at 5 o’clock in the evening. The weather was pretty cloudy, hurried to the lake. Decided to pay attention only to the first lake out of three, because the path to the second, and even more so before the third, we would take too much time.
When we arrived at the place, the drops began to fall from the sky. Running into merry ridiculous seeds, our team rushed down. The lake was deep blue and made the impression of the very peaceful place on earth. There were no people – the rain is still. We went down and went around a calm water smooth on the left side.
In Aul Sati there is a guest house, whose host is the name of Temirhan. We threw the last look at the static lake Kolzai-1 and went. To Temirkhan broke without warning, than a little caught him surprise: it was necessary to cook the rooms in urgency, to flood the oven in the house and bath. Food We prepared themselves, our traditional buckwheat with a foothold: nuts and dried fruits. We sat over a long table in the living room, read records in the book of reviews that tourists left the owner for 10 years of business existence. Geography impressed: Mexico, states, Sakhalin, Belgium, France and many other corners of the planet.
Day 6. Lake Kolzai, Lake Caindy, Charyn Canyon
I woke up on alarm clock at 4 am. We had a tight breakfast, thanks to the kindly provided by the owner of the house with fresh cow’s milk. I could not do the oatmeal, probably for the first time for the first time our trip.
We went for the dawn over Daul Sati. The air was fresh, the present, it seemed, only as such air can be impaired. Pretty quickly because of the green hills seemed white handsome – snow-covered peaks, chopped in a long natural cascade. The lungs were filled with air, the face was illuminated by the light of the first sunlight, and the heart was fed by love with akin to the one with which poets glorified nature. In addition to the silent symphony of the awakening of nature, we said goodbye to Aul Sati and went on.
The road to Lake Cains took place through a shallow river, which it was necessary to cross the vyhod. Going to the right shore relatively observation, we were here in such a fairy tale.
Lake Cains formed about 100 years ago as a result of earthquake. Water filled the space on which spruce grew. Over time, trees are dead, but to this day they rise above the mirror stroke of water. In the background – a harmonious landscape in the form of towering over blue water of green mountains and rocky belt. But here’s what is going on in the foreground, this rhythm, this frequency – he is mercilessly cuts the space, dictating his conditions.
My fellow travelers and I chose yourself on the pebble from the shore. I decided to take the most ugly, the most wrong form of souvenirs, because it is a place, completely consisting of contradictions, the connection of which gives harmony, exhausted the imagination and gave a good portion of inspiration.
Our Guide Dmitry had another place, where it was certainly worth going. The names of the pictorial corner did not have, so they ordered his yellow canyon. The landscape of this canyon is such that you first climb upstairs, and there already in front of you stretch the sand color Dali, and the eyes are running out when choosing a direction in which I would like to move. Here yellow colors smoothly flowed into green, and then the paints were thickened, and the characteristic black color of volcanic rocks.
The car rolled off the track, in some 10 kilometers from here, he languished under the evening sun of the redhead, who called to himself. I’m trying to remember the first impressions of the Charyn Canyon, but as if I can not. I still did not understand where we were. Walked along the viewing platforms of the left side, where the crazy view was opened.
Making a familiarization walk, we got the place at the top place to break the camp. I heard a lot about the starry sky of Kazakhstan, but until it was possible to enjoy it. Putting a tent, a table and chairs installed in front of her so that the walls are closed from the wind. We sat down on the successful side, it resembled the open-air cinema, where the dance of the slip light showed today. In the canyon quickly dark, after a moment the sky began to filling with tiny lights, the head was circle from what was happening.
After all, if the stars light up –
So it is necessary to someone?
So someone wants them to be?
So someone calls these pearl flores?
These flores were needed to feel happy. And then on the horizon above the walls of the canyon began to appear first, barely noticeable, and then an increasing bright spot. It dispersed to the edges, and here it seemed. Yellow bright huge moon, happy wishlisters of which we became.
I slept impossible, but so pleasant sleep! Woke up, looked at the watch – 4:20, and I did not want to sleep. In the sky, together with the moon, stars still shone. I wrapped in a sleeping bag, turned on in the player David Bowie "Space Oddy" song and so he was shot, which spilled with rare tears of joy. Happiness now has a soundtrack.
Day 7. Turgen Gorge, Plateau Ass
The first signs of dawn appeared on the horizon, the third session of our open-air cinema began. We watched how the brightness on the horizon gradually increased, as if someone turned toggle. Finally, a gentle red-yellow sun seemed.
We decided to climb another wall of the canyon, which did not yet go. Here, all the same principle was accepted: to bubble under his breath, counting "times, two", so as not to lose rhythm and not stop. When we were upstairs, captured the spirit.
The path went first on the wall of the canyon, and then folded down. There was no choice, fear or not. You concentrate, overcome the obstacle and only then let fear come out.
The time of farewell has come, time to go to meet the coolness in the Tourgean Gorge and the Mountain Plateau Ass. On the road saw a man who raised her hand with a thumb throed in heaven. It was a lobster Pasha from Minsk, with whom we met a little earlier at the entrance to the Valley. He sat in the car and began a story about himself and his journey. After some time, it was decided: we are going to the Tourgean Gorge together, already in four.
In the Turgen Gorge, they decided to make a quick walk to a small waterfall, 15-30 minutes, depending on the pace. I made sure that a small waterfall is not so small. As a person, generally not sophisticated heights and their diversity (from St. Petersburg), it appreciated this phenomenon of nature.
We headed up the disgusting blurred rain road. Several times on the way a cascade of holes, to overcome which required great concentration, so that all the passengers were silenced. Gradually turn-by-turn led us to a truly large-scale spectacle. Dullness and cloudiness gave him special rudeness. This rugged beauty!
I love this place. It seemed charmingly static, which helped plunge in thought and careful look into the soul itself. The goal seemed to be getting closer, the rain was getting wet ..
We headed to the car in time to go down to the bank of the mountain river Turgen where miraculously could camp. Still, the moment of farewell is full of different feelings. But in Kazakhstan, it was always a sense of gratitude, respect and love. Well sadness of parting, of course. We lit the first fire for the whole trip, which with great pleasure sitting in conversation in an attempt to warm up the bones.
Day 8. lake Issyk
We waited for the last point of the route – Lake Issyk. Along the way, Dmitry told the sad story of this place: July 7, 1963 on the pond collapsed avalanche debris flow. Within 5-6 hours of the natural dam was destroyed, and the incredibly beautiful lake Issyk destroyed. The disaster claimed the lives with them. However, the place has been restored to the beginning of the 90s by more than half.
And here we have a beautiful mountain lake with azure water. It was Tuesday, so we were alone. Passing twice Issyk mountain stream that feeds the lake, as well as passing through the woods a bit, we found ourselves on a beautiful promontory.
One problem – everything littered with debris from the weekend. Dmitry suggested to get out of here and burn the garbage. When the bulk of the already burned down, we heard the roar of the engine close to the machine, and then saw a serious man, to send us. The man went straight to the point: we had broken a few rules. Firstly, we were on the forbidden territory (yes, tablets have not read). Secondly, make fires, especially in such an area, it is forbidden. The man said that will now be made out fine. It became unbearably annoying, the debate of the parties began. After some time, Huntsman said: "Okay, I see guys you are not bad. Let’s do this: fine I will not write to you, you extinguish the fire, and I will take you from the prohibitive area in the recreation area.»Such an alignment made us. Only drove up to the right place, as the huntsman offered to take us to the Seleovushka. We arrived at the Grand Construction.
Through an anti-erase dam (in everyday a selochushka) was erected across the Issyk River in 1980. For me, as a person sophisticated, the construction was genuine interest. Yes I was just drowned from delight to visit such a unique object!
Here from left to right: Saya (Poptchitsy), I, Pasha (Highway) and Dmitry (Driver Guide)
As soon as we got off the dam, rain began. And again, the hugers surprised: "We went to my post, I will send you tea". Agreed with pleasure, and already through moments were in a two-room house. I remember his phrase well: "Either patriots or idiots work in the reserve. Our huntsman, of course, relate to the places that he entrusted to guard and protect.
The road to Almaty went fast. I looked out the window, trying to fit the worm in my head all that I had the honor of seeing in the last 8 days.