Not yet known Turkey
Even the one who has never been to Turkey is unlikely to represent her as a country of red fez, abdominal dances and yatagan curves. The impressions of the same were limited to either Istanbul bazaars or the beaches of Antalya. Understand correctly: I do not condemn those who want to make a small business and a little rest. I just want to tell about another, the country unfamiliar to us – about Anatolian Highlands with his dizzying landscapes, ancient monuments and not spoiled civilization by people. This part is limited to two chains of ridges: Pontic Mountains and a brand, which are closed in the East and make Anatoly less available than other areas.
Of such a variety and intertwing of peoples, as in Malaya Asia, was not anywhere. Hitty, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Persians, Armenians, Turkic Seljuki created a unique alloy of various cultures. Here are neighboring temples, tombs, churches, bridges, caravansers, mosques, palaces.
That is why Turkish Ministry of Tourism decided to arrange an international presentation of the new tourist route called "Green Tour-98". The best feathers of the tourist press from around the world were invited to participate in it. However, the word "feathers" The least applies to my foreign colleagues, armed with folding computers, mobile phones and digital cameras that write frames on a floppy disk. I got to the nearest computer – and at the same second of your pictures on the display as amended: in Tokyo, in Atlanta or Tel Aviv. But the most important thing is not even. To me, smiling in light with compatriots, most liked the organization and punctuality of foreigners. We have a trip program constantly breaking. Someone can not stand after yesterday, someone stuck in the souvenir shop, someone sketched a buffet. Finally, when the bus goes down, it turns out that someone forgot the child. You have to go back.
And this time was different. A minute in a minute The whole group was sitting in their places, even if the departure was appointed for seven in the morning, and the previous evening passed not at one glass of cancer – insistant on anise of grape moonshine fortress 50 degrees. The Turks dilute it with water in a ratio of one to one, which is why the mixture acquires a muddy white color and a new name: "Lion milk". I personally saw cancer undiluted. This drink resembles a semi-forgotten taste of the Danish king drops and leaves the overall sensation of the clarity of the head and freshness of the body.
Our journey began with sightseeing Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara. It is located in the indoor bazaar of the 15th century and keeps a rich collection of items found in the excavations in Malaya Asia – since more times, when the matriarchy dominated on Earth. There is even an ancient Greek image of the Amazons. According to Brockhaus and Efron, "Amazon" – means "Gretless". This name was called the people living in the territory of the current Anatolia and consisting exclusively of women. Amazons sent male children to neighboring tribes, and girls left and burned her right boobs so that she would not interfere with the stretching of the bow.
Turkish roads can not be called smooth as a mirror, but our Koldybin does not happen on them. Hilly landscape pleases with all the shades of the rustic flavor. The long-axis stork lives the nest at the very top of the lamppost. Navigated donkey pulls the arma against the backdrop of peach grove. The tiled roofs flashes, straw stacks and laid on the sun Null pancakes – fuel for future winter. Each Turkish village has a mosque, a coffee shop, a stable courtyard and a pond (chasm), laid out by stone plates with sayings from the Quran.
Ordinary Asian signs. And suddenly – a completely alien terrain. The jet of white boulders from the horizon to the horizon. Cyciscopic walls carved from stone Sphinches scattered on Earth ceramic trekking, underground corridors. This is Khattushash. The ancient capital of the very first Indo-European state built by hitts. Much of the history of these people remains a mystery for the current researchers. It is known that they wore shoes with bent socks – it speaks of mountain origin. There was also sexual difference: men put on pointed hats, and women – cylindrical. The priests went in long robes and prayed idols. In the main hatte temple, on the ruins of which you can wander our clock, there was a throne of the sun, a huge copper altar and two phallic fertility symbols. The temple contained eagles, horses, bulls and lions dedicated to deities.
Hittite clins are not fully decrypted. Read the lines on their signs should be alternately: one left right, other – right to left. Right on the road leading to Khattusha, local residents sell souvenirs – A la Hattite figures, decorations and clay debris texts. Although who knows him – maybe all this is the most present.
The Turkish press shows a huge interest in our expedition. Every day the radio reports its promotion. Together with us travels a television group that prepares a two-hour cognitive program. It is necessary to see the entire column from the side: ahead is a white-blue machine of gendarmerie, then two buses with participants, and behind them – a mobile outpatientation, on board which is drawn a red crescent. At the very end of a jeep with security workers.
Here and Amiasia – surrounded by gardens, groves, and the vineyards of the town, on the streets of which are decorated with ribbons of ribs with horses. On the central square, tanned to black boys splash right in the fountain.
Our group was accepted in the courtyard of one of the old mosques and treated with fragrant tea from a samovar, indistinguishable from our Tula. by the way, "samovar" Turkish pronounced the same: "samovar". There are other examples of similar in the sound and meaning of words in our languages, for example "a cap", "tea", "barn". But the Turkish word "fool" means "bus stop", "fist" – this is ours "ear", a "Bashka" – "another". So if you get lost on the street and you will repeat: "Fist, Baska, Fool", – Know what they advise carefully listen and go to another stop.
Amiasia was the capital of the Pontic Kingdom that fought with Rome. From these places, Caesar reported his victory over the Pontic King Farnack: "Came, saw, won". The tomb of the Pontic Kings is carved right in the rock and visible from the city from all points. And the mummy themselves – the skeletons covered with brown skin – are stored separately, in the urban museum. Someone is joking: that’s what happens with avid smokers.
We are heading to the highland village of Nebi, where our large buses can not climb. Need to transplage into small buses, which are called in Turkey "Dolmush". In the village, where we are going, Dervishi live – representatives of mystical destinations in Islam. They wear motley clothes, decorated with ribbons, beads and coins. Performing his special dance with many rotations, included in religious trance. Especially for us, local residents gathered in the courtyard in front of the village school and showed a piece of this dance against the background of the Ataturk Monument.
Love for the founder of the state in Turkey is limitless. Together with the fall of the Sultanate, he introduced the European calendar, forbade the wearing of the Fesign and abolished the Arabic alphabet. At the same time, all dervish orders were dissolved, which was a progressive measure for a country inserted to the secular path.
And one more interesting place – Tokat. Everything is preserved here as in the last century. Caravan-Saray acts – a complex of the type of our pre-revolutionary trading rows, where merchants live and sell all sorts of accessories necessary. Houses climb directly on the rock and have an unusual architecture: the second floor on all sides stands over the first as a big cube delivered to a small. The quiet life of narrow streets violates only a cry of Muzzin, following which people pull up to the mosque. Apparently, inside all lacks the place. Prayer rugs are laid out by the wall, right on the street.
We visited the factory where beautiful tablecloths and scarves are doing. In the courtyard there are huge chains with paint, in which the canvas are soaked. Figure is applied by a special print. Finished handmade handkerchief here costs 700 thousand Turkish lire. Do not frighten. It is less than three dollars.
Three years ago the ratio was: 50 thousand lire – 1 dollar. Now – 270 thousand. The most chassis banknotes were bills worth 1,000,000 (one million) and 5,000,000 (five million). Paying for a cup of coffee, it falls from unusual to bending your fingers on the hands, recounting the number of zeros on money.
Last mountain range before going to the Black Sea is called Ak. In these places almost always lies fog, hiding the outlines of objects, plants and living beings, right as Fellini in the film "Amarcord". The main occupation of local residents – Harvested Hazelnuk. By the way, nuts occupy a prevail in Turkish exports to Europe.
And here is the Black Sea coast. If you look at the card, then right on the contrary – the island of Crimea. How many times I heard in Sochi, in Koktebel and in Yalta: see, you will swim in Turkey! So check now what I would see if I swatted here. Water is the same. But the sand is completely black. Do not think that dirty, – such a kind. Maybe because the sea called black? Along the beach stand tables under umbrellas. Women playing cards, looking at squeezes from happiness by kids. It is not true that all Muslim girls swim in clothes: I myself saw the cute Turkish in open swimsuits. At the same time, there are those who actually splash in long gray rascoats – and anyone around, except for the crowd of foreign journalists, does not surprise any other fact. And sailing a little in the sea on the boat, you can feed the dolphins jumping out of the water.
Now the highway goes along the sea, past fishing villages with inverted boats and laid out for drying. The panorama of Trabzon opens at one of the turns. Antique Greeks called it "Trapezund". The shape of the hill at which this city was built, reminded the table – in Greek "Tour". Daily in the Trabzon port approaches ferry from Sochi. Night here, night back – and all day for shopping. Therefore, hanging around the city Russian-language advertising like this: "Europays from the wall to the wall carpet. Wholesale sale. Chorno Sea East Anadol".
That evening, when we arrived in Trabzon, there was a broadcast of a meeting of two popular football teams on TV. All coffee shops and beer were full: here it is not customary to watch football home alone. And we got to the wedding. Rather, our group has dinner in an open restaurant located on the seashore – and next to the bride and groom. Guests had three hundred people. I was still surprised: Is it possible to feed such an oral? And then walked between the tables. So, it turned out that there was no appetizer there. Only "fan" and Mineralwood. So it is possible and six hundred people call.
But the guests knew the young literally from the legs to the head. At the end of the evening, they lined up in a long queue with their gifts and with five hundred dollars. Each bills were joined by a pin to the previous. In the end, the groom with the bride turned out to be associated long money tapes.
Wedding – Official event. And ordinary peccans traczones prefer to arrange not by the sea and not in the forest, but on top of the mountain, on a flat plateau, where Yaki graze and from where an amazing view of the surrounding mountains. Lases live here – Georgians who have passed in Islam, but preserved their tongue and culture.
On one of the mountains, the Orthodox monastery was carved in the rock. Lifting on a steep path, covered with stones and reserved roots takes minutes forty. But at the top, when you are among the ancient frescoes, covers the feeling of flight and enlightenment. Sad eyes of scratched archangels and apostles look at tourists, without stopping by clicking shutters. On some structures hang plates: "refectory", "Temple", "Celi". In one of the premises inscription: "Old Lavatory. Do not used" – "Old toilet. Do not use".
From Trabzon, we fly to Istanbul – but first we pass the necessary formalities at the local airport, only six weeks ago, instead of the old, tiny and cramped. The new marble is decorated and equipped with the most modern equipment. Smoking in its walls faces a fine of 10 million lire (approximately 40 dollars). And one more characteristic feature of a meal air service. Women and men undergo landing separately, standing in two parallel queues. This is the case if you need personal inspection.
On the aircraft of Turkish airlines Stewardess are dressed in a variety of vests with handkerchiefs tied on the neck. Unlike all other companies whose flights I have ever flew, here spoons and forks are not plastic, but metal. A piece of paper is applied to the dish (even to fish), on which a fatty crossed pig is drawn – guarantee of the absence of pork.
After long crossings and climbing on the mountain peaks, our entire group was rewarded by the settlement in the most chic Istanbul hotel "Marmara", decorated with painting, carpets and bronze. From its upper floor there is a panorama of the whole city. At the same time you can see the Bosphorus, the Marmara Sea and the Bay of the Golden Horn. Minarets and dome of mosques, the remains of the fortress walls, palaces, restaurants, museums, bazaars, ships – the collision of the Great Asian city, producing in the European coast. You can tell about it infinitely. But the capital of three civilizations deserves a separate material. In the meantime, in a nutshell, one little-known fact.
In the Istanbul Mosque Suleymannia there is an eight-marched tomb like a carved box. Here, for all Muslim laws, Sultanha Hurrem is buried – in the past, the daughter of the Orthodox Priest Anastasia Lisovskaya. At the age of 15, she fell in Harem Sultan Suleiman gorgeous and soon became Bash-Kadunov – that is, the most important wife.
She had the opportunity to receive foreign ambassadors, influential nobles and famous artists. She deserves love and recognition of a simple people. About the life of this woman still go legends. And it was at the end of the 16th century, in the era of the heyday of the Ottoman Empire. So do not think that the Russian-Turkish relationship is one solid bark of land and sea battles.
On the last evening we went to the restaurant. Our table was forced by flags: Italian, German, Kuwaiti, French, English, American, Israeli, Japanese, Finnish, Belgian, Canadian. And, of course, our, red-white blue. Each of the expedition participants received a medal from Turkey’s tourism minister. The journalist from Finland raised the glass and said in his own language: "Baby Kalyakhik!" This means: "be healthy!" And the belly dance was also. It was performed by our Japanese – right on stage. And I took and sang in the microphone "Moscow Nights". For the first time in his life.