Oktyabrskaya Patzha in honor of Pirosmani
It so happened that I was not led to be in Georgia in those times when she was still part "Unified and indivisible". I visited there when Georgia became an independent state. Visited abroad.
Georgia is actually "abroad". It’s starting to feel already at the airport when you have to fill "An accounting and registration certificate of a foreigner who wants to temporarily immigrate to Georgia", Manufactured by the Ministry of Refugees and Requirement of Georgia and consisting of 12 points. Delivery and very seriously related border guards look at your passport for a long time and admire the contents of your baggage on the X-ray screen. Finally, you are in the Georgian land, under the blue sky, around drink and cypress; I must say, after Slushny October Moscow, it is nice.
I got into Georgia as a member of the Russian delegation to the festival dedicated to the 130th anniversary of the birth of Niko Pirosmanishvili. This wonderful naive painter has become an almost cult figure in this country, and I will not be surprised if the Georgian Church eventually canonize him. Only the tendency of Pirosmani to drunkenness can prevent; However, in Georgia it is not considered a big sin. By the way, it is interesting that there is no word in Georgian language defining the concept "hangover". The festival was sponsored by UNESCO and included theatrical performances, musical concerts, scientific conferences and several art exhibitions, including the Armenian-Russian-Georgian Armenian-Azerbaijani-Georgian,. It must be said that the neighborhood of the Armenian and Azerbaijani flags on the facade of the National Gallery, the flags of the warring states, was amazing and instilled in the hope of universal understanding of the fact that it is not at all necessary to rip each other. There are more pleasant and useful classes. In general, it became the impression that a very tangible part of the UNESKA budget was spent on the device of all sorts of fenders and parties, which further.
Tbilisi – Surprisingly picturesque, warm, humane. Despite even more than some other traces of street fighting times "Zviadism", Quite quickly, however,. Yes, and Georgia, it’s not worth talking about it for a long time, amazing on beauty Country.
But here is a very strange life here. And in Russia in Russia it is often impossible to understand what is happening, in Georgia, life is sometimes for the limit of the misappropriate. The situation easily clarifies the economic situation. Almost all production stands in death, unemployment is monstrous, but people somehow live and, in general, are not beaten. Local currency – "Lari", What does it mean simple "wealth". Lari ruble refers to 4 approximately 4.700, that is, the lari corresponds to almost the dollar and, like our ruble, so to speak, is stable. There are banknotes in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 lari. For fifty, the Queen of Tamara is depicted, on a hundred, naturally, King David Builder. Pirosmanishvili also decorates a piece of paper in one lari. Coin also coins, "Tetri" – "silver". Georgians do not show much interest in the ruble, go there better with dollars or milk-brands.
But the official income is the following. The minimum pension is 7 lari. Nurse gets 5 lari a month. Professor of the Academy of Arts – 14. Maid on an expensive hotel – for some reason 18. Wonderful, not?
Especially if you look at prices that are not much lower than Moscow. Bread, for example, from 50 to 80 Tetri. Milk – 3 lari for kilo milk powder, to use here you prefer. Cheese – 5 lari for kilo. Cigarettes – the cheapest, "Aster" – There are 15 tetri, imported – from 40 Tetri to 1.40. Since the rent is most of the residents of Tbilisi, they failed to know its size. 1 kilowatt electricity costs 2 tetri, and the phone costs 1 lary per month. Gasoline – 30-40 Tetri per liter, depending on the quality. Travel in the subway or trolleybus costs 10 Tetri, in the bus – 20.
With apartments even cooler. Good renovated apartment in the city center is estimated at 60-70.000 lari, that is, a little much cheaper than in Moscow. In the suburb of the apartment, however, you can buy thousands for ten. Almost proud to Tbilisi tell that the American ambassador is paying 6.000 dollars a month for a private house with a garden on one of the prestigious streets of the city.
At the same time, everyone somehow live. As – unknown. Buy products on wholesale markets, where everything is much cheaper. Many in the city have their kindergartens, that is, their own greens, fruits, nuts, sometimes potatoes and corn. Many connections with the village. And everything is somehow spinning.
The main ingredients of the diet – bread, pasta, beans, corn, eggplants. Meat and the bird have become a rarity (however, Georgians of the time of the century, contrary to popular opinion, consumed little meat). Humanitarian help helps. Fortunately, cheap greens – season. For some reason, it is brought to the city mostly Azerbaijanis living in Georgia. Wine and alcohol are pretty cheap, moreover, many have their own wine and chacha. Wine bottle costs 1-2 lari, chacha the same, vodka is more expensive, and mainly it is terrible quality. In expensive stores you can buy in fact good Kakhetian wine and brandy, for example, "Gremi", but they stand as much as in Moscow (though, in Moscow even "Kindzazrauli" For 60.000 rubles may be falsified).
To top item, eternal problems with electricity, gas, heating. In the summer there is nothing, but in winter it gets difficult. Permanent interruptions with electricity became familiar. Centralized heating has not yet existed, like hot water. But – "gol on fiction cherry". Many in apartments are autonomous "engines", And when you go around the city in the evening, the buzz, which published by these devices, is heard everywhere. Somewhere mining powerful batteries from electric locomotives, providing light at a critical moment. Put gas fireplaces working on cylinders. And hot water give electric heaters "Atmor" – Fortunately, with cold water in Tbilisi, in contrast to Yerevan, there are almost no problems.
Very much experienced transport isolation. On the ground can be reached by Armenia, and from there where, in Iran? Can be in Azerbaijan, but this way is rarely used. The sea route remains through Batumi, it serves mainly for the delivery of goods from Turkey and Bulgaria. And so – the plane. But a ticket, for example, to Moscow and back to Tbilisi costs 340 dollars, which is a big amount for most Russians, and even more so – for Georgians.
The depletion for Georgians was the most painful that in Soviet times they were (or were considered) where the richer other citizens of the USSR. Existed "Georgian ruble" – bill of 100 rubles. Now the banknote in 20 lari is the problem. About tip speeches at all. This means that most people simply have no cash.
After Moscow with her "Yaguarai", "Bentley", "Lincolnam" and eight hundred "Mercedes" Tbilisi Streets filled with old "Zhiguli" and stray foreign cars, look very modest. I really managed to see one "Porsche", Some new "BMW" And dear "Ozvozdnikov". The latter mainly belong to foreign missions. The only thing in the city "Mercedes" Series "WITH" With round headlights, we demonstrate with pride and are exactly what the nephew Shevardnadze rides.
Georgian can not afford to be poor, poorly dressed, he can not not let dust in the eyes. Very often in a conversation, my Georgian friends said that the people them by nature theatrian and did not like to work. This, of course, is so incorrect, like any other generalization about any people, but some share of truth, apparently, in this judgment. Tbilisites themselves tell an anecdote: "Georgian raises toast: "So let’s drink for the Golden Tbilisi!" – "Why gold?" – "And because it was built by the golden hands of Armenians, the golden heads of the Jews and the Golden Hearts Georgians!".
As a result – full surrealism. Rustaveli Avenue with his pompous buildings and expensive shops is adjacent to the curves of picturesque streets built up with some completely incredible chickenurs: the windows in the most unexpected places, the laying of ten different types of bricks, terraces and balconies, seized with ivy and grapes. Standing in the heart of the city hotel "Iveria", Once upon a time – after "Metechs" – In prestige, turned into a hostel for refugees from Abkhazia. The entire facade of a huge building was hung with blankets, dried linen and clothing. Only one floor serves as a hotel, there is a special entrance, the door on the floor is constantly locked, it is necessary to call, and loggias are tightened in the rooms, in order to avoid possible trouble, metal mesh. Cockroaches crawl along the walls, but fed in a restaurant perfectly. Actually in that "Iveria" became a refugee refugee, there is something very worthy. Recall what conditions the Russian refugees are placed on their historical homeland.
When you go to the center, amazing an abundance of beautiful and well-dressed people. I did not have before in Georgia, I did not imagine that Georgians are so beautiful, graceful and so well knows how to file ourselves. They have very stylish toilets, completely without "Asian" excessiveness, although somewhat monotonous. The fact is that in Tbilisi the choice is still less than even in Moscow, there are only a few branded Western stores. But also in the fact that Georgians, on their own admission, are parrots. If one buys a jeans "Calvin Klein", then the other will surely buy yourself the same, only better. Prevails traditionally "Linea Italiana", correct, but "With fantasy".
And here are the packs of men standing or squatting at every intersection, the day-day day of expansively discussing, waving their hands, something shouting on their gastal language. The same can be observed in Arab countries or in Turkey. Perhaps it is thus done "South business".
Markets in Tbilisi – just a wonderful spectacle, especially the so-called "Soldati", or "Desertirsky", Not far from the station. You can buy here anything, anything, but gives pleasure and just to worse in the market, look at all sorts of snacks, sniffed to spices and admire a variety of and promotion.
As the Tbilisi themselves say, despite all the difficulties, life still becomes. You can easily walk at any time through the streets, all new and new stores and cafes are opening. After all, there was a time when the military-armed machines were hacked "Mchhedrioni", Combined passers-by and from time to time opened an erratic shooting. It was unsafe ride around the country: the same workmen stopped the cars, and, sticking to the driver of the driver, threw it on the side of the road, and then with Gicani removed on expropriated good. To Shevardnadze are different, many blame him in dictatorship, remind that the opposition sits on prisons that it is possible to call democratic regime in Georgia with very large stretch. But all I spoke to, unanimous in the fact that he has an extraordinary personal courage (this is important for the Machi Georgian Society), and we are glad to be able to clear the country from bandits. By the way, in Georgia, rumors circulate that a series of killings of Georgian mafios in Moscow and other cities of Russia was organized by Georgian special services.
Tbilisi has always been a very multinational city. Here, Georgians, Armenians, Jews, Russians, Turks, Greeks, Poles, Kurds, and Another God. Naturally, in such a cultural kaleidoscope, sometimes something jumped out, without it it does not do, but the city was a melting boiler. Recently happens, apparently, some "Georganization", But sometimes there are minority representatives in it. Neither I, none of my Russian fellow travelers, have never even experienced a hint of anti-Russian chauvinism, on the contrary, people with interest about what is happening in Russia, talk about themselves, and even pull the cup in the nearest institution. Unfortunately, many Russians left, but mostly those who were completely not embedded in Georgian life, did not know the language, and often treated with contempt for the local population. Very often, these were military personnel and their relatives, which were in Georgia against their will, – they may have experienced antipathy from Georgians, who remember the Tbilisi events that were commanded by General Rodionov. They can also be understood. You can understand everyone, even a woman with whom I accidentally talked to "Sheremetyev-1" Before departure in Tbilisi. She, the wife of the Military, sobbed from the fact that she again needed to return to Georgia, Georgians otherwise, as "Black", did not call, said that "their frown language she will not learn in life" And that they are all "Thieves and bandits". She’s for sure to live in Georgia.
Now information for hypothetical tourists in Tbilisi. Georgia’s tourist business, unfortunately, is at best in a semi-dimensive condition. About travel agencies that organize trips to Georgia, I did not hear. The price of the air ticket price has already mentioned.
Preferably, of course, have friends in Tbilisi – like everywhere. The most expensive hotel in the city – "Metechs", Room is an average of about 300 lari. V "Iveria" or "Adjara" It costs from 30 to 70 lari, but they say there are places and cheaper. There are many small private hotels, both expensive and moderate prices. The most famous expensive restaurants – "Europe", "Metechs" and "Alazani". But you can eat tasty and cheaply in numerous restaurants, Dukhans and eaters. Nightlife represent clubs and casinos "Kazbegi" (Youth Rave Dance), "Jazz Club" at the hotel "Adjara" (Learn 5 Lari, a glass of drinking as much; for traditional jazz lovers), with a dozen cabaret, of which the most famous "Oscar" with striptease, club "Rainholder" (for "New Georgians"), and youth ija. But still, I guess nightclubs and cabarets are not the main challenges to be in Georgia.
In Tbilisi need to wander. Climb on the mountain over a turtle lake, where the Museum of People’s Architecture under the Open Sky is located and where the panorama of the whole city is visible from. Here you can walk for hours on recreated in a wonderful park of the Georgian village. Or climb to Mtazmond, where Griboedov and his wife are buried near the old temple. Wander on obeying "Pasty logic" Nearby Luggles in the old part of the city, enter the courtyards, surrounded by gallery around the perimeter. Admire the ancient monuments of the Zion district. Pose relaxation in surprisingly cozy squares and parks, which is replete with the city and where children play in the shadow, the children are playing, the old men are discussing the delightful young girlfriends. To worse on the embankment of the chicken, go to the cafe to drink coffee, in a quinkali – eat a couple of these Caucasian dumplings filled with fragrant juice and descend into the basement and drink Caxhetian wine or a little bit of Chaqi. As I said, in numerous Tbilisi facilities you can eat desperially, tasty and inexpensively.
And one of the most amazing places – the area of Ban. Here in a small area there are famous sulfur baths with their domes and "Blue bath", In which Pushkin gave his body to the confusion of Caucasian masseurs, Mosque, Georgian Orthodox Church, Russian, Gregorian, Armenian, Synagogue, as well as many shops. It is here that it is easy to understand what the multicultural Tiflis was and how he could be again. Here, you see the ingenious Armenian poet Sayat-Nova, Pirosmani, Griboedov, Philosopher Magardashvili and many other others.
I saw little cities for which it’s so nice to walk. It is a pity, of course, that the Soviet period and the subsequent ruin badly damaged Tbilisi, but his unique atmosphere conquers. And it remains to hope that it will go to the way, and the city that has all the data to be one of the most beautiful and attractive in Europe (if Georgia is Europe, which it seems, no one has completely figured out), so will.
For adherents of more perverted tastes, Tbilisi is made up by another cultural reservoir. The fact is that the architects and sculptors of heyday were very worked in the city "Georgian monumentalism" 70s. More wild facilities are hard to come up. What is the area before "Iveria", which in the city is called "Mabyrinth of Minotaur". This is a complex with unthinkable overpass and ramps, some kind of underground wells and lanterns for some reason in the form of Jewish seeds. It seems to be, they wanted to build a cultural and shopping center like Parisian Les Halles, it turned out – something inspired. To top it off, the area is flanked by a completely unpredictable function of a vaulted construction, surrounded by Tbilisites "Ears of Andropov". No less impressive and numerous Exrsisuses of Zurab Tsereteli on the hills above the Crooked, as well as the monument "Mother Georgia", sticking over the center of the Georgian capital. According to Tbilisi Stories, after gaining independence, the Fileen "Mother of Georgia", ex-fairly flat, was rounded. However, Muscovites have enough chances to experience the consequences of the talent and irrepressive energy of the Tsereteli, who have experienced their activities with the small Caucasian homeland to the big Russian.
Let us leave economic and architectural and political arguments and proceed to more carnal matters. Although even the conversation about gastronomy will inevitably affect social topics. Georgian cuisine long and rightly uses honor. Being in essence, peasant, it is very diverse. In part, due to the difference between different areas of the country, partly due to epicureancy, it seems, in fact inherent in the Georgian people. Even now, in rather difficult conditions, Georgian food remains great, especially when it is cooked with everything "Golden Georgian heart". Oddly enough, Georgians eat little lamb, preferring to her beef and pork, as well as chicken. But the whole charm lies in hundreds of recipes of sauces, different in every family. And in the ability to prepare many vegetable snacks from the most simple things – beans, eggplants, zucchini – but so that at times, admiring the taste, do not understand what the dish is made. And, of course, greens, greens, greens in different kinds, excellent cheeses, "Cheese bread" – Khachapuri, corn hot pellets "Michady", Hot Lavash. As for wine – it is more complicated here. Then the wine that is usually served on the table can not be reproached in anything except that it is quite a prostine. It is clean, healthy, honest, but no more. But you can drink it much without severe consequences, which is important in the conditions of protracted Georgian tables. But the best varieties, such as "Mukuzani", "Alexandreuli", "Hwwucker", Poor tolerate transportation even within Georgia. It is said that some of these wines lose quality, if they strongly click on the bottle, and this is quite possible, since good Georgian wine is usually very long and capricious. Therefore, the experts drink it only in place, and there it turns out to be excellent, as it appreciated the expert of Pushkin’s wines, which said that some of the Kakhetiansky varieties are not inferior to the best Burgundy. So, seeing a bottle in Moscow "Mukuzani" or "Kindzazrauli", Believe not your eyes, but reason.
What is Georgian feast, we fully experienced during a trip to "Pirosmanoba", Pirosmani’s holiday in his native village Mirzania in Kakheti. It was an important cultural and political event at the government level. Hundreds of honored guests arrived, President Shevardnadze, Ministers and Ambassadors. First of arriving, children dressed in national costumes offered to the pile with wine to each guest from "clean" and drunk a laudatory song. Then a blitz tour of the museum of Pirosmani, the monstrous bunker in the spirit of the above-mentioned style of the 70s, hanging over the slope. This slope opens into the wonderful Alazan valley, where the vertices of the Big Caucasus are almost indistinguishable,. For some reason, we found themselves on the honorary tribune, under our legs – the scene, at which national songs and dances were performed from time to time, a numerous crowd of the people; above us – a balcony with microphones. Intermitted by artistic numbers of speech – Ministers, famous poets and scientists, Poster UNESCO. I must say, the Paris lady was the most lapidalka; In addition, I understood that she said. The Georgian speakers were east of expressive, verbally, and I only understood the words like "Culture", "civilization", Yes "Sakarelo". One, however, pronounced speech more clear, as it consisted of a ten-minute name listing "Pirosmani – Picasso – Da Vinci – Pushkin – Pirosmani – Einstein – Fern Design – Paris – Pirosmani – Thomas Mann – Kandinsky – Pirosmani" and T. D., Intermitted short fragments of Georgian vocabulary. Finally, Eduard Shevardnadze appeared and also said. Need, in fact, give the debt of his personal courage. He passed through the crowd of 300 meters, without a body armor and a dense live shield. We were let down on the tribune, not asking who we are, and not search. I generally turned out to be two meters from the former member of the Politburo and the Minister of Foreign Affairs. Standing around Verls with eyes scanning what is happening, and with right hands that are constantly behind the overall of two-breasted jackets, and policemen are most worried that rural kids do not break through the guard chain, would not save the president if it were among us Anyone like the killer of the Israeli Prime Minister. Maybe of course I am mistaken.
Finally, after the end of the official part, we were inquired that further? "What, of course, the Patzha". Gradually it turned out that "Patzha" Georgian refers to a wicker from the vine by a gazebo for a pleasant pastime, in the expansion sense – "Gulianka", "Congue". Our "Patzha" had the shape of the grand and-shaped table, for which 700 guests sat down, headed by Tamada, the Minister of Culture of the Republic of Georgia. I am admired by this man. "Patzha" Four hours lasted, and Batono Minister stood all this time without fascinating, raising up her hand with a glass, leaving toasts and starting songs. And all this time, the local population and policemen were broadcast kebabs and hashlam, snacks and greens, poured wines and watched the well-being of the participants of this event. To the end, however, it was not possible to keep track of: the table was spreading along the lawns framed by pomegranate and fig trees, overlooking the Alazan valley. I think Niko Pirosmanishvili would be happy.
I do not know how Batono the Minister of Culture behaved after "Pazchi" (They say that Shevardnadze does not drink at all, and it does it right, otherwise it would have been not to be afraid of the terrorists, but a liver cirrhosis), but a significant event happened on the way back. My colleague is "Independent newspaper", blissfully fell asleep in the bus chair, awakened from the fact that his temple is cold and firmly. And saw that one of the presidential security officers who had lived participation in "Patshe" and for some reason the preceded to us holds the stem of Makarov near his skull. Colleague, also "Caphy" did not bother, in full amazement took a gun from the hands of drunk "Super Body Garda", turned in his hands and in the same amazement returned back. He shoved the weapon in the holster and walked to sleep on a free place.
It is necessary to say that in the morning we went to the institution next door to the hotel to correct the undermined health with a boror (which in Tbilisi is real and excellent), and "Hashi" and Tarkhong vodka.
But it was not there. Delivered "Mtskhetoba", Holiday of the city of Mtskheta, the ancient capital of kartlia. First – passing by bus through several cordons (for some reason the special services blocked the german, although Shevardnadze was not going to Mtzhet, as it turned out. First we brought us under the clouds, in Jvari, "Cross Temple", One of the oldest in Georgia. There St. Nina, Country Baptist, saw a dream and made a cross from two grape twigs. Jvari – a miracle, church, not that grown out of the mountain, not that increasing it. Then – Mtskheta, the wondrous cathedral of Sveti TsHSHEL, where at the base "Life-giving pillar" According to legend, Chiton The Lord is stored, filmed from him before crucifying and, by legend, brought to Georgia by a local Jew, who went to Easter in Jerusalem. Interestingly, the most ancient childbirth of Georgia, such as Bagrations or Eristavi, build their genealogy to the Jewish residents of the Mtskheta biblical times. And then – solid "Patzha", Thousands and thousands of people in this small town, wanted from a stall with Coca-Cola and ice cream to the shalmans with kebab and drink, having mastered on the shore of Kura and Aragvi with supplies singing, dancing. Ministers dancing with a glass in hand. Priests raising a wide gesture to the sky, refusing to the next portion "Guino", and those who are whipping praise to the Lord. At the end there was a concert of Presnyakov (I do not know what), but we were manked.
Probably, I was lucky. Perhaps – and with the basis – we can say about Georgia that it is partly "banana republic", What, why be interested in this outfill, when there are Canary Islands, Costa del Sol, Stockholm and the island of Mauritius. The point, however, is that Tbilisi – the city is amazingly beautiful. Georgia god gave nature, what is usually not happening. In addition, that memory, those connections that are united – from "Skewers in Kars" and Stalin to Rustaveli and Pushkin – should not be destroyed. Georgia is now abroad, where you live "Persons of Caucasian nationality", Spectacular in addition to their language on our, vividly interested in what is happening in Russia, understanding that very much depends on our minds or idiotism. If I were on "Patshe", I would raise the toast to all be different and lived together. For a life. Garamjos!