On a motorcycle – back to antiquity
Woman sat on the edge of the cliff. Downstairs laughed the sea, playing the rays of the setting sun. Above the head hollowed by sunset sky. Away, the horizon itself, the sea and the sky merged into the impossible golden shine. On this blinded background, the female figure was drawn by a sharp silhouette, and there was something intense-strange in it. I approached closer. The woman lay the sketch with a clean sheet. "Every day I come here – to write a sunset, and I can not, – noticing me, she said, as if exciteed. – Straight is some kind of elusive light".
My casual interlocutor turned out to be a German artist. Together with her husband-architect, she for many years in a row comes to Greece. "If at least not to break out here, I think the missing year, – she admitted when we met closer. – What is pulling here, I can not explain. I know for sure that not only ancient art – in the end, his samples can be seen in the British Museum, in Louvre, in Rome: they were cleared like an overhexious good. But it is possible to understand his depth and life-affirming power here. Probably because it is organically connected with nature, in which there is nothing excessive, which would suppress a person. Here the landscape itself is briefing the sense of measure. I say it is not as an artist. Here really some kind of special aura – nowhere I do not feel so cozy and pacificate, so easy and free, like here. As if I know this land with a diaper: this is your home and your loved ones that you are happy".
The reasoning of my new acquaintance unexpectedly coincided with what I felt, going to Greece, who manifested me from childhood. I seemed to come back to the house from which I once left, but I remember everything in it. Fascinated before the school of myths, heroes and gods who lived among people; captured secret names – Zeus, Hercules, Apollo, Aphrodite and the names of cities – Olympia, Troy; Music sounded even the combination itself "Ancient elda". Her story and mythology so firmly entered our culture, life, life, speech, that we, without noticing, then we appeal to the ancient Greeks. "Uza Gimenta", "Sing Diffilams", "Alpha and Omega", "Augean stables", "Achilles’ heel", "Sword of Damocles", "One world of Mazana" – All this from them, Ellinov. "In Greece, everything is" – told Chekhov character from "Weddings", and this phrase, instantly pickled, became a winged.
Go to the country where "There is everything" and from which you expect a lot, risen: you can disappoin. This was told me a friend, having learned that my husband and I are going to Greece. She herself went there unsuccessfully, being in a big diverse group, and stopped to go to this country again. Although Turkey or Egypt returns willingly. Lying on the beach, and you get bored – goes on the bus tour. Also good, but I did not want to repeat her experience.
And we, armed with cards, developed their own route. V "Consultants" They took a familiar travel agency. Natasha in love with Greece and knows her perfectly: Greece has been the topic of its course works and diplomas at Moscow University. "Naturally, it is necessary to start with Athens. In Delphi, revered by the Greeks as the center of the world (a huge stone has still been preserved – "the center of the world", supplied by legend in the place where two eagles met, whom Zeus sent and the opposite ends of the Earth), go on the bus, "Natasha tried us. – It is much cheaper than taking an excursion, and more interesting – you can stay anywhere, and there the mass of wonderful corners. The pelopones is better rolled by car – it can be rented. If more than two days, then with a good discount".
We followed the advice – and did not lose. Even tourists wounded by tourists opened up to us with an unexpected side – we were convinced of this, meeting at the hotel of compatriots and comparing seen. Machine (it turned out to be a new Fiat Punto), hotels and tickets to the islands were booked in advance. We still have just stocking guides, comfortable shoes, go and watch.
At the Athens preferred to walk on foot – I have long made sure that any city can be experienced and learn only with your legs. Not related "Group discipline", We wandered around the city streets, descended in "Subway", One of the lobbies of which reminds the Archaeological Museum: in Athens, as in Rome, it is very difficult to build a metro – save and be sure to hang out for invaluable antiquity, on the guard of which are alerting archaeologists. Rose to the legendary Acropolis – and stepped in a long history, the fact that even before our era, in "golden age" Ellala, such a distant and acquaintance. Sun on the sun Parfenon, crowning rock, – the temple of the goddess Athens, patroness of the city, the victory symbol, erected after the Persian wars. They built it all townspeople – Brownie, Mednisters, Jewelers, Weat, Ravers. And they granted proper, depicting on the front among the gods. Never before any simple mortal saw himself immortalized in marble. Once stood here the winged goddess Nick – but without wings. They say, the Athenians cut her wings to her so that she did not leave their city. And Vaughn on the platform was once crowded white marriage statues, and among them three graces, logged in Socrates even before he devoted himself entirely to philosophy. So it seems that the textbook of the story and pages of the famous book Kuna comes life "Legends and myths of ancient Greece", Which to the hole read in childhood.
And on respectful removal from Parfenon, Erehechyon is minted – the dwelling and the sanctuary of the goddess Athens. Myths argue that Ereheheton has grown on the place where Poseidon and Athena started a dispute, who can rule the city. The dispute was resolved truly in the divine. Poseidon promised the Athenians to the sea of the sea, hitting the trident on the rock in confirmation, – and walked avalanche was hung: Since then, Athens has learned to dominate on the seas. And Athena won a spear in the ground, and an olive tree has grown out of it – the fruits of him fed the city at all times.
Many legends and wisers are stored ancient marbles. But the Greeks will certainly tell the story that burns their hearts – about the abduction of the treasures of the Acropolis in 1801 – 1803 by the British ambassador in Constantinople Lord Elgin. "What did not get hotdies, then made Scott", – Posted by one of the hottest fans of Greece, fought for her freedom, the great English poet Byron, beat the Scottish origin of Lord. Neither the later repentance of Elina, nor the fact of the placement of treasures in the British Museum did not force the Greeks to accept the loss of national heritage.
And at the foot of the Acropolis, an amazing medieval quarter is spread – a crying, preserved since the times of Turkish rule. Medieval towns are similar to each other, but we did not meet anything like that. Like many of his counterparts, it seems to be woven from the picturesque streets connected by stone stairs, toy houses climbing along "roadway", Where two riders will not dispay. But not a museum exotic, whom tourists are labeled, captivates this corner – he lives in itself, not enthusiastically for the sake of strangers, not escalating them. From the windows stored on passersby local old-timers. With balconies, styled flowers, women are crowned loudly, discussing the latest news for the very quarter. Stepodo talking over a cup of coffee men, freed from home affairs. And it seems from any other too. Sucking in the sun silent black old women, disapprovingly looking at the boys who manage in this stone labyrinth gambling the ball or with a guicane rush on a bike. Only they enliven the day of a sleepy swamp. And coming here, as we were explained, you need to come in the evening when the cry walks, eats, drinks, having fun. Swipe the doors and windows of its countless shops, sparkling with lights and souvenirs, taverns, not accommodating guests and spread their tables and on the street, under huge silk.
We tried to stand in one such tavern, but there were no places. Seeing our distressed physiognomy, the owner suddenly dragged from somewhere else chairs, sat down, treated her home wine and spoke – about what? Yes, what’s the difference is the main thing, with unreasonable friend. The next day, we looked here again. The owner met us at a pleasant one and still cooked a surprise – Russian Greek Fedor, who spoke with a strong Caucasian accent. The new acquaintance was a resident of the Georgian city of Poti, a quarter of a century back to his historical homeland. And along with him, close and distant relatives were moved here, friends and acquaintances – a whole Greek colony, inhabited in the Black Sea coast. In a new place, they also settled in the neighborhood – it was easier to master.
– It was great to help us then the Russian Orthodox Church – there were gathering former Soviet people, – Fedor said. – You will go there, it’s close. Also local landmark.
Church of St.Licodima, or St.The Trinity on the street Phyllinon was founded in the XI century, at the end of the XVIII they were destroyed by the Turks, in the XIX care of the Russian archimandrite Anthony restored in pristine form. Almost at the same time, the bell tower was erected and a bell was brought specially from Russia – the largest in Athens. He sounds today on Sundays and great church holidays. We came to the temple on weekdays. In the tiny room there was a silent and gloomy, although candles flicker. While we looked around, the father came from somewhere, came up, greeted and the gesture invited to enter. I have already posted that there is nothing to cover your head, as it should be in the temple, but the father, as if not hearing, led us, in a small place, not at all like church. The walls were carried by portraits of men in the front costumes, beautiful women in elegant toilets, glittered church utensils, ancient vestments, Russian icons.
– This is our museum, – explained the father. – You can say the history of the Russian mission in Greece.
In Athens, the Russian mission appeared in 1835. Placed in a small house on a cry. There, next to the temple of Zeus Olympic, stood the House of the Russian Messenger.A.Catakazi, who thought, wrote to Petersburg, "Give the local government the first example of the recovery of churches". Russia for this allocated a huge amount at the time – 100 thousand rubles. Among the first, the church of Sotira TU Alik near the Acropolis was restored – she was considered an ambassador until 1847, when the Church of St.Trinity where we are now. Her parishings were Russian by origin "Queen of all Ellinov" Olga. Daughter of the Grand Duke Konstantin, the granddaughter of Emperor Nicholas I, the niece of Alexander II, she in 1867 was married to Greece King Georg I. Greeks loved their queen, considered it a model of humanity and self-sacrifice. That she has proven, working the sister of mercy in hospitals during the Balkan Wars and during the First World War. Her memory is immortalized in the title of one of the central metropolitan streets – Queen Olga Prospect. And on the graveyard near the church, the rest of the very famous our compatriots were also known – the last ambassador of the imperial Russia in Greece Prince E.NS.Demidov (1868 – 1943) and his spouse with.AND.Demidova (1870 – 1953). Up to the establishment of diplomatic relations between Greece and the USSR in 1924, they considered themselves representatives of Russia and provided full assistance to numerous Russian emigrants.
This is how the story goes into the bottomless depth of centuries, with today’s life continuing this story here in Tuga. Bunin rows were appropriate: "before your glory legendary / powerless time". Addressed to Eschil, but can be attributed to all Greece.
At times, I am getting a map made by our marks, and again sinking into the fantastic world of ancient myths – our way in Greece.
Old Corinth with a grand canal, conceived yet by Nerona in the 67th year BC.NS., but constructed only in the XVII century. In this city, called Homer "luxurious", One of the first Christian communities in Greece appeared. Apostle Paul wrote here "Messages to Corinthians" and preached Christianity. What was judged and justified.
Argolida – somewhere in these parts, at the Unay Sanctuary, sacrifices were sacrificed to Zeus and every four years there were unay games. And then Hercules made one of his feats – strangled the Nemoy Lion.
Mountain pass – and descent to "Gold", According to Homer, Micheenam with famous lion gates. Memory helpfully suggests the name of the German archaeologist Henry Schliman, who found legendary gold – we saw it at the National Museum in Athens.
Charming Nipion with a powerful Venetian Fortress. "In 1830-1834, he was the first capital of a young independent Greek state"- Reports a guide. Almost our time – compared to antiquity, of course.
Epidavr – the antique theater survived here and today is famous for extraordinary acoustics. Favorite attraction of tourists – get up on a small circle in the center and whisper a couple of phrases. I heard even in the last row – and the theater accommodates 15 thousand spectators. I also did not escape the temptation – whispered a couple of tender words. Heard. The National Theater of Greece in the summer puts an ancient tragedy of Eschila in the epidavra, Sofokla, Euripid. They say – impressive. By the way, the word itself "theatre" – Grekin. The foot of the hill was round – "Orhestra" With the altar-altar in the middle: After all, the appearance of the theater is associated with the cult of God of Dionysus and the festivities in his honor – Dionysiam. Slightly above – playground "Skachen", there the actors performed, and behind her – a tent "Scent", where they changed out and stored props. Familiar words – all, all from Greece.
On the way to Olympia (not to avoid the same stadium, where the very first Olympic Games, who returned here in the XXI century?) We made a small discovery, in a tetima rolling from the motorway to the pine forest. Tart air infused on the needles. Silence – to the stall in the ears. Around neither soul. But a strange feeling – as if someone here is invisibly present. Unearthly, elevated. From ancient myths.
The place on which we stumbled upon was the sanctuary of the god of healing asclepia, or an arculap. In the 80s of the XIX century, archaeologists have found the foundations of 160 premises of an ancient hospital and a lot of stones with letters of grateful insisted – patients went here from all over her. The special temple contained sacred snakes for treatment. Then the snake, whining the bowl, became a symbol of medicine.
Machine rushes further, winding on wheels new hundred kilometers. At our disposal – all Greece: Mountain passes, tiny monasteries, invisible from the road, picturesque glade among the stony slopes, beaches. From the beaches captures the spirit – they stretch the endless wide sand ribbon. Occasionally on the road there is a peasant on Mule with his swing. He dispersed with his hand, as if only waiting for this meeting. The point and the case come across hotels, large and small, luxurious and modest. Numerous signboards offer to rent apartments, room or studio. For curiosity look at the announcement. A smiling owner willingly leads around the house, shows clean rooms, sometimes with tiny kitchers, cozy and inexpensive. If desired, you can agree on breakfast.
"The best seasoning to food – hunger", – I say that I needed the phrase of Socrates, hinting that it is time to eat. But spend time on the food sorry, so we leave a serious meal to the evening, intercepting for the go of the Suvlaki – small pork kebabs on chopsticks, wrapped in a cake with vegetables, spinacopitu – Puff pastry with spinach and Jiros – the same thing that is common with us Shaurma. And in the evening we go to the tavern – it is delicious and cheap. The tavern is chosen away from crowded places and in the form of simpler – this has taught my personal experience. Greeks themselves go to such, and they know a lot. Yes, and tasteless dishes, as we have seen, in the tavern just does not happen. And when in one of them a friendly owner offered to taste his cabbage rolls, I already jumped up – how many centuries this dish? I remembered the character from the student years a character from the comedy Aristofana, which in 425 BC.NS. Required: "Bring cabbage leaves with pork!" These are the most dyees. When I wanted a fish, went to the psarotavna – "Psaro" Greek fish. Freshwater Greeks despise, and sea horrides, along with squid, octopus, langustami laid picturesque in a glass showcase – only choose. They are fried on the lattice, will be served with heat from heat, arched with lemon juice, with vegetables and seasonings. Fish is more expensive than meat, but also taste, as Great Rykin said, "SPEESFICH".
In the tavern, we first chose the unfamiliar names in the menu: Choriatyko, Keftes, Dzadziki, Musakas. And then they understood – it is better to poke your finger in what I liked, or to trust the owner: he will bring the most delicious thing that happened today. In addition, all these salads with freshest olive oil, yogurts with close fresh cucumbers, garlic and other seasonings, vegetable casseroles, podlivals, especially prepared cakes, chicken or lamb, even sheep cheese and very popular wild herbs (Horta in Greek) in each tavern is different, your own, unique. Like homemade wine. It is served in the metal dishes, they offer to try, do not like it – they will bring another. Scientific, we added to the order a couple of Greek words: "I sas", For example, (hello) or "Paracal" (Please) – and immediately became expensive guests.
In Greece, we learned up to 500 varieties of wines. If you add home, it turns out countless. And what names! There is wine on the pelopone "Hercule Blood". Recina, that with the taste of the needles, is called "Tears Nymphs". In Santorine, we saved the unusual wine, the absorbent taste and aroma of grapes treated on volcanic soils. At the end of the XVIII century, Santorinian wines were supplied to Russia.
Ellina, loyal principle "everything is good in moderation", left descendants and rules of wine. Contemporary Aristophan Poet Evbul in Comedy "Dionysis, or Semell" The mouth of the god winemaking and fun advises: "A smart person is quite three bowls: one – for health, the second – for love and pleasure, the third – for sleep. If it comes to the fourth, the swearing will begin; to the fifth – even worse: scandals, noise; After the sixth, you will start to wander and yelling obscene songs; After the seventh, we break the face; And the eighth will probably bring to the court. Ninth causes torment and anger. Tenth Mutit of Clear, so you get lost in the garbage and dirt". And Pythagoras, who remembered the theorem that "Pythagora pants for all sides are equal", Brought out such a formula: "Drunkenness is an exercise in madness". Greeks, it seems, a lesson learned: they know how to drink, do not reach hooliganism and insension, drink only for fun and joy.
But in Greece and without wine, you can be cross – such this is a light, cozy, sincere country. In any case, such a feel on vacation.
128 nautical miles from Piraea, or 12 hours on the Turquoise-Blue-Black Sea, and we are on Santorine, a unique island on sleeping volcano. Believe that his explosion in 1500 BC.NS., Shaking Mediterranean Sea and sent tsunami to Egypt, gave rise to the myth of Atlantis. Perhaps. In reality there are beaches from volcanic sand – black, red, golden, green, high-colored red-black rocks, implausible pure horizon. They say nothing like that in other Greek islands. In the harsh paints, white houses with blue shutters fit – the color of Santorina. And sea of purple, orange, yellow shades.
From the northern cape of the Mauropetra to South Exomithis – 18 kilometers, the width of the island from 2 to 6 kilometers, the length of the coastline – 70. I call these figures as accurately, because we decided to examine the island and, by taking the bike, began to wheel on his roads. And they are excellent here and come to everyone, the most tiny villagers, archaeological reserves and beaches. On them at huge speed, like the autobahn, buses, taxis and motorcycles come. In such a way, we first climbed into the mountains, shot on Polkilometer upwards, then descended into acrotets – the so-called "Minoan Pompeii" – Single-of-a-kind structures of the bronze era. Opened this place quite recently – in 1967 – Professor Spiridon Maritonas. And he did not believe himself.
Leaving a bike on a small platform, on the ancient steps make a way down and fall into the city, survived the two terrible elements – earthquake and volcanic eruption. It is strange to see almost completely preserved walls and houses, frescoes, vessels lying where they were left, furniture and even crumbs food. Scientists were able not only to reconstruct the lives of people who lived here 3.5 thousand years ago, but even restore the painting of the volcanic eruption. It is believed that it happened about a year after the earthquake: the seeds preserved among the ruins of houses gave shoots when a volcanic ashes began to fall on Earth. And the inhabitants, gathered all the valuable, including decorations and guns from bronze, left home long before the eruption. That is, they were preparing for him and did not wait for the trouble to be collapsed on them. That’s why there were no skeletons of people and animals, as in Pompei, with the exception of the remains of one pig.
The road of the snake crawl along the cliff. There, below, unthinkable blue sea, ahead, hanging over the abyss, literally between the sky and the ground is the city. This fera, the capital of the island. Climb her from the bay on our transport can not. You can use the suspension road. Or go on foot, defeated almost 600 steps. We choose a more exotic way – donks, lined up at the foot of the Stairs Street, as a taxi in the parking lot. Their saddles are picturesquely decorated with keepers – multicolor fabrics, and giving out – colored beads. Oscals go slowly, and we have time to see the houses who walked over the abyss and as if supporting each other. Every house, as it turned out, with the architectural secret. It was possible to solve it again in the tavern admitted to the rock. At first glance, it was a one-storey house. But to get into it, you first need to go down to the basement with a window, closed shutters. Opened the window – and abuned: before our eyes in the sun rays, dazzlingly glittered sea. It turns out that at home in the Ferre are not height, but the depth. They are called "Spa" – dug. We were on the third floor. underground. And in ancient ie, standing on the edge of the abyss, high above the sea, we watched sunset. They say who at least once will see him, will be happy.
When we returned to Moscow, the friend, who faving me frustrating from the trip, asked: "Well, and how she, Greece?" What could I answer her?