On Friday, when Saturday begins

About Israel now write a lot. It’s not difficult to go there, and the set of attractions is quite standard: Jerusalem’s shrines, the Dead Sea, Eilat on the Red Sea, Netanya – on the Mediterranean, Tiberias – on the Sea of ​​Yam Kinetet (however, for Europeans, the Tiber Lake). And you saw the country.

And you did not see her. Because the ordinary, the national life of the country passed by you, although she, it seems, and around you.

Famous stamp guides and guidebooks – "Jerusalem prays, Tel Aviv walks, Haifa – works" – Fair only basically, and therefore – partly.

. On the washed and fresh only in the morning of Tel Aviv streets, when the sun is still affectionate and the sky is not littered from dust, heat, the midday crowd of a slurred crowd, the first, the days of the Sabbath passers-by – decent gentlemen with prayer accessories, hurrying in synagogue.

. Numerous lights Night Haifa – Illumination of countless zucchini. From the evening of Friday to sunset Saturday day over Haifskaya parks there is a smell of kebabs, and music threatens from the sea to the top of Mount Karmel. And the whole road to the elder, endless cities-satellites of the metropolis, is the road that terrifies its industrial species, is known to the abundance of not only enterprises, but also a peteed establishment, for which "Alcohol Valley".

. But praying to Jerusalem will be empty rapidly at sunset Fridays, when it starts – with the first star Shabat-Saturday.

Red buses exempt from themselves the city, hugged in the stalls, and fade the wondrous bouquets in plastic buckets of flowers, and the family of eastern people with mogs in Kiryat Iovel, like pigeons, searched on the steps of entrances, husky seeds and smoking a strange tobacco, and on white-stone hills Beit-Va-Ghana, in the narrow place of the streets Mea-Shaarim, in the fabulous ornamental courtyards of religious quarters, the frame begins the holiday. Sabbath. And while all the rest of Jerusalem, clearing the streets and courtyards, is delivering to the home hearth, in order to improve even more than the ordinary days, relax after the labor week, call relatives and friends at a preferential rate, to drop finally to the worst joy of Europeans (that is, it turns out , us) and only then, when it comes (in Jerusalem, it is necessary to stop the evening coolness, pour out onto the balconies, in the parisades, who have them, or landscaped roofs, here in religious quarters, is already a festive walk. Enchantable children, mostly girls and babies, are fucked and run, sneaky, on the transport of bridge-free – Barriers and ribbons with spikes Correct religious areas from the world. The streets turn into unrealities of the towns from the dreams of our grandfathers, where festively and all their own: "Shabbat Shalom!" – "And Git Shabes!" – Men and boys from twelve and a half and older already in synagogues, and from the opened doors, the choir of Saturday prayers on different dialects of Hebrew, are burning, electric candles are burning, which will not go out until the next evening, because they cannot be turned off on Saturday, and the stars in the dark Blue sky over the synagogue ignite and go out. When the fathers return home, there will be a festive meal and songs to night, and unhurried walks from guests to visit, and detailed conversations on the grounds in front of the pussies.

At this time, another Jerusalem, his young part, only finishes cleaning the wings to rescide from the Saturday ritual of communication with the family in real life.

Girls with Indian spontaneity and generosity of the savages caused a combat coloring on his face, doried in expensive chlamydes, paying special attention to the unobtrusive demonstration of the details of the underwear. The modesta, following the example of his religious peers, put on dresses or skirts to the fifth, but they are seductively open (in moderation, of course, is Israel, and not Western Europe!) narrow stroll strip, and if the sleeves of the blouse, according to orthodox canons, cover the elbows, then the shoulders, on the contrary, are naked. Yunsha beat and outlined bristles on top of the windows "zero" Zatilovka, dragged into the riveted skin, if the weather allows (and if not – it is possible to suffer, and in half atelacon of deodorant and lotion, prudently splashing on the body), doused in the tank severity of the boots, allowed all sorts of metal pieces, climbed to the belt of a holster with a mobile phone – And in the Path. Papine car in the Sabit – Legal prey of his beloved child, no matter how biting elbows insurance companies, who at the beginning of the week, are breaking the phones from request for payment of repair after Saturday children’s walks.

. They call for friends and girlfriends (not all dads are generous each shabby), stuffing the car below the waterline and – with a screech, gican, bibing, with music included in the full power of automotive speakers with necessarily lowered to the refusal of the glass, – are sent to those Company DISOTEKE.

In Jerusalem, even the most disjuvenated teenager from those that will not take to the worst horror of the European lady (say, Rosalia Solomonna from the upper jersey) legs in unclean sneakers from the bus seat, knows that the dance marathon time comes in the Saturday late: late in the evening on Friday. It is on this day – more precisely, the night – the young Jerusalem goes on the discos, suitable sometimes in the most unexpected places.

And then everyone is sleeping until the afternoon, gaining strength.

Because the next day the route is completely different. On Saturday evening, when the tired adults are already irretrievably buried the long-awaited day off and rummaged early to go to sleep in front of tomorrow’s cortuga, youth party rushes in pubs.

Only an unreasonable 13-14-year-old baby and quite fresh olim – newcomers (until the third year of life in Israel) – can carry out these precious hours of freedom in front of the new week of Forcedilovka in the seams and parks, not far from home. A full-fledged grazing Jerusalem is unstoppable to the center.

After ten in the evening, on both tips of Ben-Isgud street, given to the promenade of tourists, on the square and in the square of Mashriba, on the one hand, and Kirkion – on the other, begins to bite the unfolded youth. Noisily welcome each other – what a meeting, have not seen a long time ago! Although obviously danced the whole last night on one patch. The compashs are knocked down and spread over the closest partition places. Narrow dulls and closed courtyards Nakhta Shiva, on Squain Squain Courtyard, where artists and wilderness are trying to drive to fit out foreigners liquid watercolors in the style of artistic schools and cheap bijouteries. Before the purchase of such things, no self-respecting young Aborigine, of course, does not fall, but he willingly hesitate for the same spiritual food merchants on the standard jamb. (Speak, the matchboxes of marijuana here demonstrates anywhere and no matter what no longer visited the hardness of the domestic currency: despite the price index and the dollar rate, its nominal value remains unshakable for several years.) Music already rattles, the waiters are impatiently tugged by the hoofs on the thresholds of their establishments, looking out for the tables exhibited on the street under the umbrellas of Passely Popoclaysians to call. But a real frequenter on these cheap Ponte is not caught. Time is children, he still chooses, listening to himself, he still has a preliminary shot, he has no way to hurry. He does not intend to violate the ritual.

Scattered crowds flow on the limited two quarters of the section of the Jaffa Street, flow it, steadily approaching the center of the Saturday party of Jerusalem – Russian comprehensive. I will not lie: the daytime attractions of the Russian Orthodox – the Orthodox Church, a preliminary detention prison, the city court and the complex of the city hall buildings – no one is not interested. Main points of attraction – countless zucchini. The streets adjacent to them are already clogged with young people, and the rims of cars with more than Jewish stubbornness are swaying, desperately signal, through thick and not paying any attention to them.

But the institutions are still empty. Everyone has their own public – by age, according to claims, on musical tastes, and even just in the circle of dating the owner. We go to "Kalba Shawua" – "Saturated dogs". The sign in the entrance notifies that the strange name is given in memory of the testa of the great ancient sage Rabbi Akiva. He (father-in-law) was famous for his generosity – no dog leaves him hungry. Here are the youngest – mostly schoolchildren of older masses.

Eleventh floor. In the hall – no one. The waiters in branded vests are hidden behind the rack. From the kitchen, having heard our Russian speech, the dishwasher Alice, beautiful, as a fashion model, born in Israel daughter of former Leningrad residents. This cafe is better than that in which she worked before. She is also glad to talk while quiet: "After half an hour it will start. " Why in half an hour? They are, even closed? No, but early. And when it’s late? "And never, – says young Bartman Boaz, – While there are visitors, the cafe does not close: usually hours up to two – half of the third. " Early so early – I will go later.

When we go out, the door has already grown up, an article resembling a squat cloth. Although just that Boaz talked to us that the fighting, any serious riots here. Drunk? Only ns they have. Alcohol almost do not drink, but children up to 18 and sell it forbidden. Order the cola, sweet cocktails together after the evening they usually sit down the shekels on forty. It is not expensive. And safe because without alcohol.

Turning to us hard, like a tinted boiler, a shaved head, raised friendly invites to peek. And at the entrance, the company’s first visitors are already dried in indecision. No, we are still to the elders. It’s thirty meters from here. Bar "Publicity" – written in Russian and "Glasnost" – in Hebrew. Plate on the door warns that the entrance is from 21 years. Here is the situation of a championship, the public is solid: approximately thirty-year. Spacious ear ear almost full. We barely managed to order on the mug of beer, as they saw that the queue was already lined up at the entrance. Bartender Gabi, an industrial design college student, – a shirt-free shirt, a smile on his face, in the teeth check with another account – meswords from hoses with soft drinks to the coffee maker, from it – to the kitchen window, from the kitchen – back to the rack; Bottles flashed in hands, he throws a glass – two turns in the air catches, throws the ice cube – it catches the whiskey in a glass, in one movement pours whiskey, without looking picks up a mug, where the coffee stack is already on top with a foam cream Snow hill: "BEVAKASH, AHY!" – "Please Brantz!" No, very young people do not go to them – not that place, other music, other visitors. This is a very famous establishment, sustainable clientele. On Saturdays come even from Tel Aviv (probably lacks their golden places?). How long will such a warmth last? Up to two hours – with a guarantee.

When we leave out "Glasnost", All the establishments are already clogged, in the open doors, the unchallenged public crowds. But there is no volatile expectation – all cheers and excited – that indoors, that on the street. At the corner of the same street, next to "Glasnost", – a pub "Sergey". Obaldev from the second consecarity of the Russian name, I ask Barmen Asha (he does not work today – so, it came to come) – why?

– Yes this king is so Russian! Joyfully explains the asah. – He built the house on the contrary. There for a long time since the time of the British mandate was a bar "Nikolai". They were the brothers, or what? Now "Nikolai" sold, and our stayed.

On Friday, when Saturday begins

Well, yes, we are in the Russian Compound! And Sergey, of course, is not a king, but the king’s brother, that’s for sure. Grand Duke Sergey Aleksandrovich, a large fan of the Holy Land, the founder and trustee of the Imperial Palestinian Society, thanks to the concerns and efforts of which so many places owned by the Russian Orthodox Church appeared in Jerusalem, and the Russian farm in the heart of the current capital of the current Jewish state – among them. He was famous for another accomplishment: in 1891, he barely becomes the Governor General of Moscow, decided to expel from the Jews from there. The feat of the name of the hero to perpetuate in the title of one of the favorite places of exhausting of the current young Israelis.

I did not explain it to Asha, and what, right, difference!

And around the corner – thirty-fifty steps – pub "Kanabis" ("Hemp"). Signboard at the doorway depicts a three-liter flower of the plant of the same name, famous from what marijuana makes it. Entrance – from the gateway for a steep staircase, one in one resembling black stairs of the old St. Petersburg. Pub is stylized under Indian exotic – a sort of fan of Castaneda fans: carbon monoxide, in the wall niches of carpets and carpets eliminated shops, plague music and lights of the light-music screen on one of the walls: Barmetric, continuously dancing during work, and bartender, huge and imperturbable, as Sumo wrestler, and waitresses, not lifting eyes like Indian slaves. As I was explained, and entourage, and the name is exclusively for Ponta, to create an atmosphere of supposedly eastern, allegedly narcotic tritons. Couples sacrigantly kissing across the carpets are engaged exclusively from love for art and to each other, and not under the influence of processed canabis.

In general, for a long time, we could not stand there and fell out in the arms of the street, it was in the arms, and not to the square, as expected, because the street during our short lack of cracked finally, as if she was sitting on all this time in the carriage pub. However, maybe it was. And everything that moved along it at that moment – slowly due to the time of the people, cars, motorcycles, couples, companies and lonely wolves were directed either in the pub or pub, or from the pub in the pub, as we, although we are Just were at work, and the rest were delayed in full growth, as if tomorrow there will be no day and this day will not be a worker. However – what is there tomorrow! COO of Night.

And we hurried to the smallest – back to "Kalba Shawua", from which, as stated, it seems, in Talmud, now and do not remember after beer and these drums in the membrane, no dog and so on.

Five minutes to go for about five minutes, but some soldiers, the fighting paratroopers on a military jeep, who, obviously, the good commander went to stumble on an hour-other sweat, envy the camera of my satellite, offered us to pass, and fifteen minutes went to them dismiss and exchange mutual wishes "make life" In Hebrew: "How to pull out".

V "Kalba Shawua" Fun still in full swing. We have been hospitable at the table where a bored boy and eight busy girls sat. One of them – Danit – Talked. Yes, they go here every Saturday with girls from their class. And why here – because here the music is good and in general all his. Other places she knows, she doesn’t like it in others. Some girls from their class prefer other places, but their company is never. Hooligans? Stick? I did not understand the question. This boy is not for guard, he is one of them, they are used as a driver. And what parents are worried – they know that she is still here.

Waiters are worn like a treated.

Host, 28-year-old Moshe. For three years, he holds this institution. He does not know why the youngest gather exactly from him, but it is so. Apparently because the room is big. Well, – selection of music. Every week here are very good groups. Previously, good musicians considered a shameful to play a pub, and now – on the contrary. And he has the opportunity to invite the best. He believes that the lovers of this type of music come to him. Most regular visitors he knows. They are good guys.

We left the Russian farm at the beginning of the second to see what happens in another partner place – on the other side of the street Jaffa. At the beginning of Solomon Street, Kikar Ziyon, thundered for all limits "heavy metal". At the entrance to the stylized cave, there was protection in the half-binding overalls, carefully looking around each incoming. This place did not look suitable for good boys and girls. On the former homeland in such an environment is easily and in the face to get. Until the lower level we did not reach. Downstairs raged disco. To go into it, it was necessary to have something to drink in the bar, and then the Barman put the stamp on the wrist, serving the pass to the underworld. I didn’t want to drink here.

Not only, however, we. Not very good boys and girls danced and in the upper hall. They danced on the tables. Some danced, and others stood – on the tables – for some reason "Farovosik": Layers for solo waited if? David rose to shoot from above, from the booth disk jockey suspended to the dome itself. At this point, Jockey asked Barmen Beer – thirst for him suffered. Barman, healthy, like embarrassed, jumped on a rack, then climbed his legs on the head of a marble bust of some Roman senator and custled a bottle on the top. But missed. Splits sprinkled.

On Friday, when Saturday begins

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