On the edge of the Indian light

Places like the extreme points of the continents, the Earth Poles, the tops of the mountains and the ocean depressions, possess special magnetism and, undoubtedly, saturated with mysterious energy, so at all times they attracted travelers to themselves. And if we talk about India, where almost every bump is a sacred place, then such sensations increase repeatedly.

Indian "the end of the world" – This is the town of Kannykumari, Cape Comorin, Tamil-Nadu – the southernmost point of the Industan Peninsula, which is washed by the waves of the Arabian Sea, Bengal Bay and the Indian Ocean. Kannykumari is the only place in India, where you can simultaneously see the sunset and the sunrise of the moon, especially on the day of the full moon.

In addition, in Kannykumari, on a small island in four hundred meters from the coast, the so-called Indian is towering "statue of Liberty", And next to her there is a small island, known for the fact that it was very long one indian sage on it and meditated, looking at India to rescue his country out of trouble.

All these characteristics "The southernmost point of India", and the ability to be on "edge of land", Where in front of you, a vast water surface stretches, our imagination extended and pushed a fascinating and pretty long journey through the west coast of India. Going on the road, we even imagine could not be that we are waiting for a meeting with the Soviet past.

Stop first, "Communist"

Kochin city in the state of Kerala is rightly called "Pearl of the Arabian Sea". This city became the first settlement founded by Europeans in India. Kochin alternately passed from the Portuguese to the Dutch, from the Dutch to the British, thanks to which it is today one of the largest and developed marine cities in India with a centuries-old rich and motley history.

Residents of the post-Soviet space Kochin presents a surprise – the abundance of red flags with a sickle and a hammer on the streets, on fishing boats and cars. The fact is that in the state of Kerala the Communist Party is still ruling. Thanks to our Soviet past and friendly assistance provided by Russia of India today, the local population refers to Russian very friendly. Upon learning where we, the faces of the Kochinsky Indians broke up in a smile. And Rickshaw in the patter moved our communist leaders from Lenin to Gorbachev, and some even added – "I like Molotov", "And I Khrushchev".

• Kerala Communist State – one of the most prosperous regions and socially developed regions of India

The most fascinating and charming place in the city – District Fort Kochin. All who visited here celebrate the extraordinary atmosphere of this place – somehow quietly and cozy, as if he came home from a long journey. There was a somewhat strange feeling that we got into the seaside Spanish-Portuguese town, which for some reason is populated exclusively by the Hindus. Here you can relax a little and relax, walk in the evening along the embankment, listen to the cries of the chap and consider the bizarre structures for fishing. Wandering among these huge cranes-networks (Chinese networks) watching how they periodically immerse them "Tentacles" In muddy waters, involuntarily feel like a fantastic film hero.

• Huge Chinese fishing nets, stretching along the northern coast of Fort Kochin, are a business card of this place

In Kochin, we were struck by attitudes towards historical monuments (fairness, it should be noted that it is characteristic not only to this area, but also all of India). Unlike Europeans, Indians are followed by monuments left by other peoples and cultures. A good example of such a relationship – the Dutch cemetery of the XVII century in Fort Kochin. Taking into account the fact that Europeans in relation to India were largely conquering, an attempt to remove this cemetery with a native land for the land of land would look logical and justified. However, the cemetery is already about 300 years old and the sign at the entrance reads – "Europeans, whose courage and courage changed the history of this land".

Secret one, "Dance"

To be in southern India and not see one of the national attractions – Dance Katakali – non-disabilities. Catakali is the theater of the Mimici and the gesture, and the word itself literally means "View story". Plots for performances are drawn from the Indian epic – "Mahabharata" or "Ramayana". The representation on which we got, consisted of three parts. In the first part, the audience could observe the process of preparing the actors to the spectrum – the imposition of the makeup and the vessels in the costumes. In the second part for non-European Europeans, we were also treated, they said that they denote the main movements, gestures and expressions of persons of actors. This excursion was very informative and helped us at least slightly understand the meaning of the subsequent presentation.

• Traditions of Catakali were formed for many centuries

Then we expected us a two-hour performance called us "Killing Dassasan". It was saturated with bloody scenes of medieval Indian battles and the revelations of God Krishna with one of the heroes. As it should be – everything ended with the victory of Good and Love Heppi Endom.

It is curious that all the roles in the performance are performed exclusively men. A man who plays a woman puts on the face of yellow makeup. Actor-Villain grimits his face red, and a positive hero – green. Presentation took place under "alive" accompaniment. The orchestra located in the depths of the scene, played a monotonous melody, unexpectedly breaking it with a drum fraction in the climax of performances.

Stop third, "Venice of the East"

The state of Kerala, through which we moved to Kannykumari, is famous for its channels and dams. About forty rivers, lakes, natural and artificial channels are mixed with salt water of the Arabian Sea and form a unique ecosystem.

To better get acquainted with this amazing place, we decided to charter a small boat and take a walk through the channels and lakes around a small town of Alpay, which is the northern gate of the Kerala Creek and wears an informal name "Venice of the East".

• The main transport highways in Kerala served branched shipping rivers and canals

Groves huge coconut palm trees alternated with semi-pumping rice fields and cashews … Hindu temples, Muslim mosques and farm houses standing on narrow strips of solid ground, sailed in front of our eyes. Bathing boys were not shy to hooligan, walked to the walking boats and, having grabbed her hand over the board, satisfied with the boat, raised a bunch of splashes.

We were very surprised, seeing one local resident forced a lively shipping channel. Not thinking short, she took a long bamboo stick and straightened into the water right in sari. Slowing a few meters, she stuck in the bottom of the bamboo stick and clinging to her with his hands, missing floating boats. So, in several stages, the woman successfully reached another shore.

Watch the sunset We were lucky for the middle of the biggest lake Kerala – Wesbada. Our boat stood in the middle of a huge waters, and the orange ball slowly rolled over the palm leaves. In addition to us on the lake there is a lot of unusual boats, with wicker sides and roofs. These were the famous Kerala House bots – house-boats with all the amenities, allowing a small warm company to travel through quiet boots and inland waters to several weeks.

Stop fourth, "beach"

Varkala – a small town in the state of Kerala with unusually beautiful beaches located between the majestic green cliffs, which are washed by the transparent waves of the Arabian Sea.

• Beautiful white sandy beach Varkala for local residents for a long time is associated with the worship of the ancestors

One of the attractions of Varkala – the oldest Vishnist Temple of Janardhana. According to legend, the temple was built about two thousand years ago, but was washed and destroyed by the ocean waves. Then Brahma himself ordered the king to restore the temple and pointed out the place in the ocean, where he rested by the lick of the deity. Raised from the bottoming day was renovated and installed in the temple.

The beach strip Varkala has one interesting feature: it is divided by local authorities on "White" Zone (for foreigners) and the area for the rest of the local population. Police carefully monitor the locals not walked "White" parts and whistle drive idle hinds.

Varkala has become a meeting place for us with those with whom we managed to get acquainted and tie friendly relations during our long journey in India.

"Finite" stop

In Cannykumari, we arrived in the evening – a pink sunset over Cape Comorin; Scarlet clouds, crown peaks of gutov (mountain ranges in Tamil-Nadu) on the horizon; And the noise of waves, intertwined with the rustling of coconut palms ..

Name "Kannykumari" It happened from one of the names of the mythical embodiments of the goddess Durga (Kanya-Kumari), which in antiquity worshiped in these places.

For some reason we were sure that we would contemplate the sunrise alone. But it was not there! The meeting of the Sun in Kannykumari is a practical ritual event. On the waterfront from 5 am such a huge number of people, which is literally apple to fall!

The sun slowly rose between two rocky islands, located at all close to the shore. On one of them, a 30-meter statue of St. Tiruvaluwara (ThiRUVALLUVAR) is tested, deeply revered by the Tamil poet-philosopher – the very Indian "Statue of Liberty". The second island is named "Sri Padaraai" (SRI Padaparai), which means "rock of the Divine Foot", For it was his goddess Kanya-Kumari who was consecrated by the touch of his feet. It also built a memorial complex in honor of the Indian philosopher and Guru, one of the largest Indian thinkers of the New Time – Swami Vivekananda (Swami Vivekananda, 1863-1902), which gained enlightenment after a long meditation on this island. It is at this place that he mentally gave an oath to devote his life to the revival of India by improving the living conditions and awakening the national identity of the Indian people.

• For these islands – the edge of the world, the south of the infinite ocean and Antarctica

Hindus of different religions with trepidation looked at the dawn and praying the sun. From the general emotion, some invisible waves of goosebumps ran through the body, and when the luminaires opened our eyes, all the gathered ash … This dawn will be remembered for us as one of the strongest and filled experiences, giving the opportunity to realize the beautiful in the usual and divine in everyday.