On the hills of dark and round
In any abandoned village, there is definitely there are places to which people rarely visit, but who carry something strange, rare – a silent log house of a dried well, a path that begged by an unusual turn, a huge burdh near the hedge. Even in the very snowy town, such places certainly have.
Paris – the city is famous, big and far from ugly. But most of his visitors, and sometimes Parisians, know Paris tourist booklets, business activity or quarters, where they live or their relatives.
But there are strange, charming places where you rarely meet curious. Corners without which "City of flowers" Would only be an attraction or business center. I am not a Paris, but I love to wander around him, go where the legs will lead, looking for the islands of urban life, which first are not clear or nonsense – and then they do not erase from memory.
I will start a tour of the not very famous Paris from the hills, "Les Buttes". The city is located in the valley, it is better to say – a pit surrounded by gentle elevations. This pit has several hills-remains, Paris – "BUTT". Some of them are completely invisible, others require tangible efforts when climbing their slopes. The most famous, of course, is Bütt Montmartre, and we will not talk about it. Although even this hill, especially its northern slope, rarely visited by tourists may be interesting.
When you stand on steps "Saint Heart" – Sacre-Ker, then left, east of Montmartre, kilometers in two bird’s-friendly Win Hill Schomon. Or visible BUTT SHOMON. The difference in grammatical childbirth between Russian and French is very important. Male for Russian – female for the Frenchman. ETHVICE VERSA. So, not far seey the hill covered by the park and the crowned one, laid "height N" antenna. "Chaumont" in French – "Lime Mountain". Here, in fact, a limestone was mined from Roman times and burned him. As a result, the hill turned out to be isolated, drunk, turned into a catacombs and became a favorite place of all sorts of split. In 1814, BUTT SHOMON was the last line of defense from the Russian troops in Paris. In 1867, shortly before the commune, they decided to break the park here. However, did not quite have time: in the bushes and clefts of the ancient career, the communary managed to play against the troops "Versailles". And were buried nearby, on the hill of the cemetery per lashine. Shooting in the Schomon Park, called the dictionary "Little Lyaruss" Editions of 1986 "Picturesque place", did not stop, they managed to shed blood and participants in the resistance of the times of the last World War.
The park is actually beautiful, especially on weekdays, when there is no one in it, besides mothers with children, small drug traders and Klosharov, relaxing under the bushes. Splies, covered with bright green lawns, skillful cubs of trees, cement fences in the form of intertwined rhizomes and a beautifully manufactured cement rock (sorry, do not walk on white bears, as in Moscow zoo), cascadics and murmurous waterfalls on waterfalls. calm.
But the main thing – the street around this park. Schomon Hill until the end of the last century was inhabited by peasants, passing goats, borrowed gardens, or workers of small circumferential factories. On the eve of the First World War, construction began here, especially developed in the 20s -30. Now the big houses build big houses here "with all conviniences", But still the islands of the strange petty-bourgeois life of the first half of our century are preserved. For example, Muzaya Street. It is a deserted, with rare shops and a cafe road framed by walls and houses. In the houses, almost always the windows are closed with shutters, and lilac and jasmine branches hang over the walls. Live here for the most part natural French, but even in winter there are associations with southern cities. Moreover, houses are arranged on the principle "Villas" In the ancient sense: the courtyard closed by several communicating with each other houses. In Russian "villa" best translated as "Manor". Here, passing through the potted small cobblestone, looking at herbal stems, makebinding between the stones, on the lush living hedges, listening to the drive of motors somewhere below and singing birds, fierce nests in the surrounding chestnuts, make sure. And on top – clouds float, which in this city are usually very low, lush, like confectionery cream, and contribute to slow reflections that there is nothing more new than constant changes.
Going away from Butt Schomon, you get on her slope, in Belville – "Beautiful village". Once this area was a primary apasha, something like a Paris marina grove. Now there are representatives of all kinds of exotic nationalities, poor creative intelligentsia and more and more young business people who have decided that the place will soon be ahead of his narrow streets crab on the hill.
Now – a short explanation of the social geography of Paris. As in all cities of Europe from London to Moscow, the wind rose here such that the wind is often blowing from the west to the East. Therefore, in London’s West & London, people are mainly provided, and in the East End – proletarians, sniffing pipes of the surrounding plants. In Paris – Boulogne in the West and Banole Montrea in the East. In Berlin – Dalem and Charlottenburg and the opposite Eastern work outdoors. In Moscow we see the same. True, there are exceptions. Provided Parisian region Vensenne is located in the east, like, for example, a cusary or tsaritsino with us.
Going off the hill, you get on the Naberezhnye Canal Saint Martin connecting, through other channels, Seine with UAZA and MARNA. In general, the network of channels in France is very developed and still being used for all sorts of transport. St. Martin’s channel enters Seine near Bastille Square, and here is one of the city harbors, the port of Arsenal. True pleasure – sit in the streets day on the shore, look at the vessels that filled the harbor.
Here are the luxurious ocean yachts, and all sorts of boats and boats, and residential barges with flowers on board and curtains on the windows. All this – under the most diverse flags, you can see even American or South African pennants. And in the neighboring cafes often you can meet real "Sea Volkov" with weathered persons sitting with a glass and fragrant tube.
Under the Bastille Square, the canal goes under the land of a kilometer for three and appears on the surface only at the end of the Richard Lenoir Boulevard. Here, along the Naberezhnye Zhemapp and Valmi – Amazing, Quiet, Patriarchal Quarter. Humpback bridges over slow green water, vintage gateways, fishermen in babters, day-day patches behind floats. And people, just watching water, enjoying the serene, sleepy life of this peaceful island in the stormy sea of megapolis.
And above in the Seine, east, on the right bank, there is another curious place – the wine warehouse area adjacent to the super-modern stadium and concert hall of Beri. This is a whole town consisting of narrow streets wearing the names of the most famous French wines – Macon, Saint-Emilion, Chabab, Pommard, Minervois, Corbier. Here, from the gate of warehouses, it smells of wine, come and leave the cars loaded with bottles with drawers, the comfortable winegirls are incomprehensible to the uninitiated conversations.
Northeast, for Paris "MKAD", there is a flea market Montray. Unlike the most famous Saint-Uen / Wersery market, a very tourist and, accordingly, expensive, where even rusty cranes and mixers acquire some French chic, the Montrene market is absolutely real and looks like our attaches. Traded here any fool, from broken shoes to non-working antique slot machines. As well as African color tissues "Eye eye", Chinese veins and lanterns, Arabic chasing and god news than yet. And nearby, in a small house behind I spitched the wall, settled in Europe the center of the circling dervish-Sufis sects of Ahmadiya. If you ask permission, you can attend their wonders.
The south of Montreus is the Vensenn district with its famous castle and the Louis XIV Palace, an extensive forest, a lake and monastery of lamaist-red-happiers. Forest is a favorite resting place Parisian, it is less well-groomed than the famous Boulogne forest, but also more "Nature", and less abused drug addicts and prostitutes. There is also a botanical garden, Jardin dxacclimatisation. This is a wonderful place with a magnificent rosary, a collection of rare plants and a very beautiful park. But for my taste, the most wonderful thing is in "Garden acclimatization", – These are built, probably in the 70s, in "Japanese style" Pavilions where reproduced (somewhat naive) different countries. Sahara, Amazon Jungle, Japan, Mexican Desert. Especially good these pavilions in the days of the marginal Paris Winter. Paying a few francs for the entrance to the deserted botanical garden, taking a bottle of wine, a book or a book or "notebook", You can serene a buzzer or work, moving from time to time from a dry desert climate in the wet heat of Amazonia, and if you get tired – then go to bamboo or dwarf trees of Japan.
In the very center of Paris, there were still corners who rarely come out. For example, labyrinth-shaped narrow alley in the Marhe quarter – "Swamp". Random person may be lost: the streets are laid without visible logic. It is here that is the sadly famous banditry at the time of the Middle Ages Rue Des Vertus – Virtue Street. Yes, and notorious, familiar to everyone "Angelika, Marquis Angels" The courtyard of wonders is nearby. Now everything is calm. A few years ago, there were amazing Arab shops-cafes, where they traded spices, olive oil, wine, greens, but you could have coffee or tipped a cup. Now the Arabs are less and less, but more and more Chinese, and some special. They belong to a certain South-China tribe "Way" and with other people from the Middle Kingdom do not communicate. Here are tiny restaurants with amazingly cheap and delicious food, factories and shops, selling leather goods – bags and belts, stores filled with mysterious products.
Another very exotic place – covered passengers near Fobur Saint-Denis Street, the Kingdom of Pakistani, Indian and Turkish cafes and eaters. Here, the past Turks drink clock coffee, play cards and watch Turkish films on video; Pakistanis and Indians enter the video shops to take cassettes with their film cameers; Walls are sealed with billboard and leaflets of the Kurdish working lot with portraits of Lenin and calls for something; Here you can buy rare spices, incense and decorations, not leaving Paris for thousands of kilometers.
To get to other Hills of Paris, you need to move to the left bank of the Seine.
Excursion to the historical geography of Paris. The city appeared on the island between the two sleeves of the Seine, which is now called il de la, "Town Island". It is on this swampy batch that representatives of the Parisian tribe and founded luteuction, the future Paris. They were lucky: Through the island, where notre-lads are worth it, I ran an important shopping and strategic path from the south to the north, from the Roman Mediterranean provinces in their colony in Germany, Belgium, England, and further – in Scandinavia. Then the city began to grow on both shores, and the segregs of the shore spread out each other and were often hostile. The royal residence was pretty quickly transferred from Ile de la Sita to the right bank, Rive Droite, where Louvre gradually grew up. Here, the centuries and the financial life of the city and the country focused on the century. Here is Rue des Lombards, Lombard Street, who were first discovered in Paris Changeable shops and "Lombardy", Prototypes of modern banks. The central offices of the largest banks are still on the right bank. Immediately – the Elysee Palace, the official residence of the President, the State Council, the majority of embassies, the offices of large companies, museums and the most famous theaters. But the right shore was both the habitat of artisans and merchants, Swams and saline. Here, in a semi-kilometer from the Louvre, Burlilo "Paris Paris", Les Halles, a colossal market, now replaced as a colossal commercial center, buried for four floors under the ground. Here futuristic poopido, "Bobur", But the street of Saint-Denis and Pigal with their sex shops and prostitutes. A Quarter Marhe – "Swamp", originally engaged in the main venel palaces after the crash "old regime" turned into a monstrous rotten human anthill: palaces, in accordance with the slogan "World Huts – War Palaces", They were disassembled by some moldy chicken copies and chulans, in magnificent once the front halls equipped leather factories and furniture workshops. Only in the past two decades of the district of the Louvre, Bastille and opera began to turn into a prestigious and expensive area.
Left Bank, Rive Gauche, time impact was a primary opposition. Here were cooled by half aristocrats, there was a university, Sorbonne, who was always in the confrontation of power. Louis XIV, hated traditional Paris, builds here one of the most magnificent monuments – the palace of disabled. Napoleon buried here – this is indicative, not in Saint-Denis, the tomb of capeting on the right bank to betray his ashes towards. On Riv Gosh is the Pantheon, Mausoleum "New French" – in relation to naturally "Ancien Regime". My "Levizna" Left Bank showed in "May" – In the 1968 barricades. Sorbonne once again laughed and remembered the oppressed proletarians inhabiting mainly behind the river. This, of course, does not mean that the left bank is populated exclusively by students, professors and persons of free professions. Not at all. But here it is still more streets, similar to our Prechistenka and Arbat, more quiet, releasing, corners, more good bookstores and shops with clothing for people who love both fashion and tradition.
In the 70s, when the hangover came from "Revolution-68", It was stated that RIV GOSH, his Saint-Germain de Pre, Disinfect and Montparnasse, "generation yea" (White shirt, black glasses, black shoes / sun skirt, shignon-"Babett" and also dark glasses), Sartre and Boris Vian, as well as jazz clubs irreparable out of fashion. Began the outflow of intellectuals, artists and writers and feed them and from them feeding galleries and publishing houses on Riv Druiate. There was cheaper to take off the workshop or equip commercial space in the ruined anthills. Now everything seems to have swung in the opposite direction. The right bank is more expensive to the left, and in addition, the 60s are again in fashion.
The first hill, where you get on the left bank, it is Butte S-Te Genevieve,. Genovende, patroness Paris. It’s near sorbon, there is very beautiful and very tourist. But there is a place, an interesting Russian, – bookstore "Imk-press" On the street of the same name. Dust-felted smell of old books, a huge set of often mysterious emigrant publications, the feeling that the Russian intelligentsia is in Riv Gosh Russian intelligentsia. Butte Montparnasse, "Hill of Parnassian Mountain" Now almost impaired as a result of levels and construction. And it is called so because at the time of Francois Wiyon, students of colleges sorbonna were stripped by lectures, lucked under the bushes and burdocks, drinking wine and reading each other Virsha in Latin. Under his Eastern slope, below the streets of Muffett and Monzh, there is a very pretty place – "Arena". This is the Paris Colosseum, once a hundred inferior to Roman in size, but very cozy. Although here, too, Christians were Christian with wild beasts (in any case, so they write in guidebooks), the spirit of intolerance does not hover here. This stone circus, squeezed between calm and friendly homes, – How can somewhere in the Staroimenovsky Lane, is the attacked by acacia, lilac and jasmine, the perfect place for a cute friendly or love conversation on a warm summer evening.
But the main Butte of the left shore – Butte Aux Cailles, "Quail hill", Place perfectly unknown by tourists. First of all because there are no historical monuments. But there is an amazing, as the French say, "ambiance" – combination "atmosphere" and "Microsocium".
Before getting there, it is worth walking through the area of Italy and wrap in "Chinatown", located mainly in the dungeons of the new complex next to the square. Here, wandering among shops and supermarkets selling unidentifiable goods, you can buy silk "Maoszedunk", Chinese Wobble, even more sketching than Russian, watch the last Hong Kong fighter or to be in the Confucian temple, where paper candles and memorial money are harvested in honor of the forever ancestors.
And choosing from there by turning to the west along Toglbiak Street, shifting the Street Street (Rue Des del Peubliers), Diamond Street (Rue Des Diamants), and Samson Street, you will fall on the top of the quail hill, on the round area. Will the great poet live there, I could not find out. Unlikely. Too far from the center. Nishya Geni on the cabin would not have enough. But if there lived – it is clear where such a mad energy, such a powerful rhythm. This is a sleepy kingdom. Houses of the 20s, planenes, pyramidal poplar, oblique sun – for some reason on BUTT about Kyli at any time of the year the orange moderate sun will grow. Older pensioners and Earns – right from Flauber "Bwwar and Beiyusha", women with strollers yes young people, with all their views showing what they turned out to be quite by chance. At the quail hill, time flows slowly, much more slowly than even on Bestt Schomon, and this slowness gives confidence that smaller youth will pass years, there will still be little to walk to the pores of understanding infants, and then warm the bones on the venues of the square Vellen. And if so banal philosophical conclusions in half an hour will be bored with you, go to one of the cafes on the corner. And after half an hour you will understand, catching the sleepy suspicious views of the owner or hostess, that the banality in Lubomatriya is not necessarily a negative property.
At half an hour walk to the West – Montsouris Park, "Mouse mountain". This is also one of "BUTT" Paris. Small, with hilly and arbors, Arabic and Polish workers who drink beer on lawns, with quite a rustic life. When I approached the elderly Mr. in "Basque" bare, resting after a long game in "Petanque" (Contributed to the measured skating of lead balls), and asked him how to go to one of the neighboring streets, he answered blistefully, minorly turning the wet balls of Paris Pierce: "Son, what are you? Why do you need to go there much better. " (Fiston, Pourguoi Faire? ON EST BON ICI).
Another place for atypical tourities – La Ruche, "Hive", Once the workshop of Eiffel. In its construction, the brilliant engineer used the same principles that for the tower: metal carrying frame and a small amount of functional additives from other materials. This is a building similar to a fellow pie, after the death of the Eiffel, it became truly the hives – but without a bench play. For a hundred, without a small years of its existence in segmented workshops, artists managed to work, whose works are now hanging in the honorary halls of the most honorable museums: Chagall, Ruo, Sutin, Pollock. Life is going. V "Ulle" And now they are engaged in creative labor representatives of different nationalities and styles. Last visit I met Irish, Japanese, Slovenian, Israeli and French. God forbid them to enter their names to the Golden Book of Paris Cultural and Cultural Life. But without them, La Rush is an amazing restraint island among compressed and choking Paris. Located "Hive" On the Street of Confederation, one of the branches of the street Wizhirr, the longest in the city. Fans of walking can be advised to pass the way with his feet, from the Luxembourg Garden to "Peripheric". The journey will take an hour and a half – Paris city small, slightly more Moscow within the Garden Ring. And you, walking, see a variety of landscapes, a wide variety of characters and many small, but necessary for understanding the city of details. So wrap in the Confederation Street – here, for cast iron, always a lifting lattice you will admire life "Ulya", on the garden, his surrounding. And if you make friends with its inhabitants, then you will take part in the frying sardines and kebabs on the grid and squeezing "Cat du Ron" from plastic boral.
After that, bypassing the tempting addresses like the street of Crook-Niver and similar to the Square of the Kiev Station, the port of Dhorlean, I would wrap on the street fridevaux – "Calid calves", Cynano Cemetery Cemetery Cemetery. Behind the wall – the heroes of the left bank, Goshisti like Sartre and de Bovwar; And on the street – Wonderful Algerian restaurants with beautiful "Meshuy" – Fried lamb, "Couscous" and gray wine "Buliania".
Another place that can not be alleged – Marse fields at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. This is one of the most prestigious districts of Paris, so during the day the well-groomed ladies skip no less well-groomed dogs, and African or Philippine Bonny walks the pure white kids. Alleles ride horses girls in pants with leather leather and in mirror-stuck boots. Well, and late in the evening here is silent and quiet. It is especially pleasant here in the late evening, moving in an early morning: Solovy singing, sweet smells with jasmine and roses, shines in the black sky a highlighted tower.
And finish the journey for not very famous Paris stands in his very heart, on the arrow of the island of St. Ludwick, Ile St.-Louis, located next to Il De La Sita. For some reason here, though around the hordes of tourists roam, almost never anyone. Need to go down to the bottom embankment where the huge elm is growing, and the bench is worth it. And, sitting on her, admire the view. He’s great. On the left mines notre-lades, one of the oldest temples of Paris, Saint-Zherwe – His spire raises on the opposite shore. Gervasi, Beleet Hotel De Ville, Parisian City Hall, and then – along the embankments flowing to the sea hay, a series of bridges go, Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Golden Dome of the Disabled. And over the waves of Paris roofs float, constantly changing, clouds. Sit on this bench can be clock.
Of course, this is not all the amazing addresses of the city, – just the most cute for me. I am sure that anyone who will risk getting off the routes prescribed in guides will certainly find something in his heart. Explore Paris can be infinity, only and surprised: Lord, how I did not notice this window before, this yard, this is the bend of the street?