On the shores of the Alpine Sea -, Kyrgyzstan – Tourist Blog
Not more than four hours in the way – perhaps the most memorable term for the traveler. To Turkey, Egypt or Emirates just so much and fly. And four more flights are separated by Moscow from … Kyrgyzstan. So far, for Russians, this is a rather unexpected choice for holidays. But it is so far. Interesting in Kyrgyzstan is no less than in overseas countries. One Issyk-Kul what is worth.
If something crashed into memory even in early childhood – then it is probably forever. The word "Issyk-Kul" I first heard hardly at the dawn of my conscious life. It seemed to me then strange, unusual and for some reason funny. What kind of "cult" and where it is "Issyk"? University School and, of course, Aitmatov with their "White Steamer" partly laid thoughts in places. But the riddle still remains. Imagination for some reason all the time painted a narrow strip of water alternation surrounded by high-rod black cliffs. Alas, in Soviet times, confirm or dispel this image so failed. And then it seems to be calm, and therefore imperceptible in the row of the brown former republics of the USSR, Kyrgyzstan somehow fell out of sight.
A dream come true
– yes calm down you! Well, the lake – it is lake. Nothing special – Our thirty-year-old driver Sasha confidently lays a grying on a mountain road. Right – rock, left – opening with a river at the bottom. Prettyly enthusiastic womb – and the landscape is changing in places: on the right – the break, on the left – the rock. In general, everything is as usual. For Sasha. And we, three passengers, we climb who. Who is to the door, and who and to the neighbor. No wonder: barely light, the road is really not easy. And Sasha knows himself gas, carelessly smoke and launching smacks in the open window of the old "Nissan".
The receiver is configured to the "Russian Radio" wave, which for some reason hesively talks about the elections in Kazakhstan.
– So Kazakhstan, so he is behind the river, – explains Sasha. – here on the road radio wave changes. Then Bishkek broadcasts, then Alma-Ata. "Russian Radio" people love – good songs. And the news can not listen.
We rose on that day very early not just. Path ********* – Hour three on a car at a decent speed. Would not get up. And not only Sashkin manner ride, but also the same, familiar from childhood, excited state. "Issyk-Kul" ..
– San, and you yourself when the last time on the lake was?
– Yes, three years ago.
– Wow – a local resident – I am surprised us almost a chorus.
– And what do you think? – Sasha lays next turn and miracle leaves from a collision with a truck slowly, unexpectedly appearing due to turning. – from Bishkek to Issyk-kul and back – kilometers of 500. According to his own whim to go there not with hands: gasoline, the car is old. Only for good money, for 50 bucks, how with you today. Won, pensioners we have no more than twenty per month. In general, of course, it is a pity that I have not been to. Eh, places there!
Nevertheless it appeared completely unexpectedly. Mountains suddenly broke up, and a little town seemed ahead, or a big village. And behind him, as far as the eyes grabs, – blueland, framed on the left and right, gentle mountains, gilded ascending sun. Nothing in common with a picture of the picture. Amazing light and easy. Already shouting want from delight.
– Well, that, inhibit, we will admire? – Sasha seems to read our thoughts.
I am pleased to warm up after the cramped machine. Well and breeze here. South, august month – and permeates to the bones.
– You know what is the height here? More than one and a half kilometers above sea level. And Bishkek – only seven hundred fifty meters. When I come here – I do not smoke, – Sasha demonstratively hides in pocket a pack of cigarettes. – By the evening you will feel. The height here and the air is clean – how to drink to give, the head will break off with unaccustomed. So smoking and you do not advise you.
Translated from the Kyrgyz "Issyk-Kul" means "hot lake", but this epithet does not quite correspond to reality. Ancient called His "Tuz-Kul", or "Salt Lake", which is much closer to the truth. It really is a little straly. And besides, it is surrounded by mountains and is in the subtropical climate. Kyrgyz and names of Issyk-Kul by sea, no one shy. Even storms here are completely sea, with a wave height up to four meters. By the way, in the USSR many preferred the Kyrgyz Sea to the Black Sea Resorts. Unfortunately, the times have long passed, and new only comes.
Issyk-kul has a more seven hundred kilometers of beautiful coastline. But only a little more than half is suitable for development – mostly in the north. In the south of Mount Tien Shan approach close to water. The closest to Bishkek settlement to Issyk – ******************** (former fish), the farthest – city of Karakol (Przhevalsk). Something in the middle of the oblique northern coast is Cholpon-Ata, the capital of Issyk-Kul Tourism.
Capitalism in Kyrgyz
To date, all hotels and sanatoriums in Issyk-Kule are private. Even presidential management sanatorium has been translated into full economies.
– when this complex was built, "said Svetlana Pechenyuk, director of the sanatorium" Issyk-Kul Aurora ", – Nobody, probably, did not assume that we would ever have to earn independently. The sanatorium was contained on the money of the party, there was a huge subsidy. Vouchers cost very cheaply, and filling was all year round. In general, the grief did not know. At 208 places we have dozens of hectares of territory and huge infrastructure. Now all this needs to somehow keep in a decent state, and at your own expense.
The territory of "Aurora" is actually striking. And its sizes, and amazing while tested, and unusual combinations of landscapes and vegetation. Platenes and mid-Russian birchs are growing on the long alleys side by side, and the beach is completely Turkish, the beach is fancy framed by the low-minded curly trees.
By the way, the beach of this sanatorium is generally very much reminiscent of the best samples of overseas resorts – small clean sand, openwork sun beds, water slides, beach bar, and in the sky – an indispensable paraglider on a cable, an impaired motor boat.
– Lord, where I am?!
– in Issyk-Kul, buddy, in Issyk-kule, – satellites for friendly laughter Return me to reality.
– That’s so we grow, – the director continues. – All attributes of high-class "passage recreation" are obvious: healing mountain air – once, therapeutic dirt – two, their own well with mineral water – three.
It seems that listed the advantages of rest in Issyk-Kule Svetlana Pechenyuk, in love with these places and in his work, maybe indefinite. And what the tourists themselves think?
We meet in the sanatorium Tatyana and Sergey arrived from Yekaterinburg. In Issyk-Kul for the fourth time. Of these, they came to the "hot lake" in Soviet times.
– And this sanatorium is directly real Turkey! – Does not hide the admiration of Tatiana.
Symptomatic remark, is not true? You have never thought, why in Russia we say so often: "Almost both in Turkey", "Little Paris"? In Kyrgyzstan, tourist business professionals and just people who love their land are also not glad by such comparisons. And what to do, because even the famous researcher of these places Przhevalsky could not avoid banal comparisons: "This is the same Switzerland, only better". Alas, while in Russia did not reach shining advertisements on the street "You will find a high-mountain pearl of Issyk-Kul!"Looks like we even for this miracle of nature, which has independent value, will be approached with someone else’s measure.
Among the holidaymakers in Issyk-Kule, representatives of the Central Asian republics are obvious. Statistics show that more than a third – guests from neighboring Kazakhstan. In fact, from Alma-Ata to Issyk-kul’s hand to file – just a pass to move. Road, truth, Nevaznetskaya. But it does not interfere with the Kazakhs every weekend to drive to Kyrgyzstan for your favorite lake-sea. It may afford anyone who has a car or money car. By the way, very small.
A solid settled rest in a sanatorium or guesthouse can afford not all. And this is one of the problems of Issyk-kul. The fact is that the season lasts here, in fact, only two or three months – from June to August. The rest of the time the lake is frankly cold, and the temperature of the air is not much pleased at night: after all, the highlands. Therefore, the task of the owner of each hotel, each sanatorium, each pension for such a short season to earn as much as possible to live the whole year and maintain your business.
And yet tourism is actively developing. Segments of the coast, where a couple more years ago, seagulls grew up and nests themselves, today almost all are excavated and actively built up. The scope of construction and the claims of future waters are limited only by their financial capabilities. The situation is something like a construction boom in the same Egyptian Hurghada in the 90s (well, again, comparisons again!).
– The idea to build a hotel originated with us five years ago, "says Azbek Dzhangaziev, the administrator of the Talisman-Village Talisman. – old, still Soviet, the sanatoriums began to decline. Neither buy nor raise none of them we were not able to. Then the solution is ripe – to build a small hotel for a quiet club family holiday from scratch.
Dzhangaziev’s work took up what is called the whole world. ********* for family slaves means – all that were. They received a loan for 10 years in the bank, and then this money bought part of the abandoned territory of the old sanatorium and began to be built.
A year and a half later in a clean field 100 meters from the shore of the lake, five cute brick houses were already stood on 30 vacationers.
– We have very quickly identified a permanent range of guests, – continues Azbek Dzhangaziev. – Basically, wealthy Kyrgyz and Kazakhs go. Recently, steel and Russians come. And once even the family of the Germans was. We left satisfied. In general, now in houses designed for 32 people, 50. Even the administrative building had to give them. And what to do: after all, you will not refuse – they queue for a year ahead. And I don’t want to lose new. So we will be built again. Plans – Big Corps and Pool. We still have enough free space, the bank approved a new loan, as we successfully pay for the old.
I happened to talk to us and with the leadership of the boarding house, which first in Kyrgyzstan six years ago, chose the path of independent survival and development. "AK Berechet" or "Black Pearl" – this is translated by his name.
– Well, to the real pearl, we are still far away, – Gulzat Notrianov, the main administrator of the boarding house. – However, it is the name, perhaps, the only thing that we consciously did not change, taking a boarding house. It’s kind of like our talisman. Heard, because the Issyk-Kul Pearl himself is called. It is difficult, of course, at first it was, but now reap the fruits. Profit we get, taxes pay, see the case repaired.
In general, with regard to the privatization of the tourist industry in Issyk-Kul – everything is united: it is good. But at the same time, everything is as one complain: the state could help. Oh how! Still, the decades of Soviet power were not gone for the former neighbors in the USSR.
And what, the Kyrgyz state helps than can. Without distortion, as it should be, of course, it does not do, but at least the rules of the game are fixed and everyone knows.
The governor of the Issyk-Kul region Tokon Shailiev says:
– We recently made a very important step for the development of the region – repaired the take-off strip of the former military airfield and began to build international. This will significantly bring Issyk-Kul to potential tourists. Now it is important for us to develop in the direction of all-season: build pools, make focus on other types of services, in addition to a beach recreation itself, such as treatment. In principle, everything for this is. We also plan to develop and congressive tourism.
There are already some numbers indicating that the wasy-kul’s resort glory is revived. Over the past three years, the number of our compatriots who rested in Issyk-Kul, rose by almost 10% and is now the fifth of all tourists.
And cheap and expensive
But today the Russian in Issyk-Kul is not so simple and just. Prospectuses of famous travel agencies die all the same Turks, Egypt, Spain. Few more information and on the Internet. The pearl of Kyrgyzstan is increasingly offered by the Kyrgyz firms. But while there is no information on the tours of the upcoming season on their sites. Going with forces, prepare new programs? Or pull time, waiting until competitors declare their prices? Today’s reality is as follows: airfare Moscow-Bishkek-Moscow – from 360 dollars. There are, of course, the train, but rarely, what the vacationer will like to shake three days in the car. Transfer: Bishkek-Issyk-Kul-Bishkek will cost 72 euros per person or 36 euros from a group of more than two people (Kirghiz has already caught a progressive trend to switch to euros in calculations with foreigners). And on the spot the resort fee is charged – 3% from one person per day. With accommodation and food, the situation is as follows: the rooms have for every taste and wallet – from funny 7 to 80 dollars for the single room. No half board and all-inclusive and in risen – only three meals. In the sanatoriums included a full-fledged treatment, in the boarding house and a holiday home – one excursion. Appeal directly to the Kyrgyz company will save you from 10 to 20%. It’s somewhat stuck, but quite safe. Kyrgyz in tourists are interested. And then, consider the amounts themselves, the solution is also for you. Personally, I, having visited Issyk-Kul, what is called, according to official need and almost ill by these places, calculated possible spending and decided to think.
By the way, where, and in Kyrgyzstan, I would no doubt would take the tour at all without meals in ************ enemy for every taste here almost every step: what in the capital, that in any small Mokski decent settlement. Say that "prices will pleasantly surprise you," it means, not to say anything! They are as if there are no. Everything is so cheap, politely, comfortable and tasty, which is just breathtaking.
And, may you know, Kyrgyzstan (not in the post will be said) ranks first in the CIS for the use of meat per capita. And not wise. I didn’t eat such a kebab from lambing anywhere else ..
And from the price incidents in Kyrgyzstan, perhaps, you should remember our trip to bowling. I love me sharper and so I try to inspect them everywhere, where only fate throws.
So, inspired by the cheap Kyrgyz bazaar and the kitchen, I went to the best with my companions, according to local, establishment – bowling with the name, not glooming originality, – "Pyramid". I was visiting "Pyramids" and in Minsk, and in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. But the originality of the price list of this focus of culture we gave tribute to immediately. The price of one track for one hour from one person in the main Bishkek bowling was 1,500 rubles in terms of local Somov for our money! Total from four people – two hundred dollars per hour. We were impolitely laughed at such a pricing policy, especially since all the tracks of the institution were empty. And the owners, despite this, politely, warningly and without any rear thought suggested to us where nearby you can play bowling at a normal price. Interesting of their business concept.
In general, in bowling, we played at that evening. 400 rubles per game with a person. However, the track in this cheap Bishkek bowling was slammed that your old parquet, and the balls were knocked out, as if they were hit by the walls ..
According to the formal sign, Kyrgyzstan cannot be counted for the neighbors of Russia – we do not have a common border. But at the same time today among the states of the CIS Kyrgyzstan for us is perhaps one of the most friendly and loved ones. Not as an example of some neighbors "behind the wall".
The first and main factor is the absence of any language discrimination. Kyrgyz language – state, Russian – official. Moreover, from local officials, we have repeatedly heard that all office work is still underway in Russian. Translate it to the state language and long and expensive. However, the Kyrgyz themselves speak Russian no worse with you. Very pure and almost without accent.
This is the very first thing that rushes into the eyes. There are more depth processes. In those days when we enjoyed the beauties of Issyk-kul, near the lake, the teachings of the collective forces of the rapid deployment of the Central Asian region were held in the framework of the CIS collective security treaty. Kyrgyzstan still can’t forget the Batken events of 1999, when a powerful grouping of religious extremists penetrated Kyrgyzstan from the territory of Tajikistan and held a long time under its control a significant area in the south of the republic.
After that, Kyrgyzstan took a course for military integration with Russia and other CIS countries. In October 2003, in Kant, 30 kilometers from the capital, the presidents of Kyrgyzstan and Russia opened the Russian military airbag. Its value for the region and Russia itself is difficult to overestimate. But at the same time, this is not the only foreign military base in the country. Recently, a new handsome airport "Manas" was built in Bishkek. But what kind of military in unusual form guard the gate of the part next to the civil airfield? These Americans will elapse their military base, which is located right outside the airport.
So friendship friendship, and "put all the eggs in one basket" our Kyrgyz friends, apparently, do not intend. Not those times – you need to be friends today at once with everyone, with whom it is profitable. It is advantageous to have military bases of former potential opponents on their territory – it means that it will. Rather, already have.
And in Kyrgyzstan, the presidential election will soon be. And on the eve of this event, analysts advise at least for a while to forget about quiet and inconspicuous Kyrgyzstan and prepare for any development of events. It is said that both the opposition and someone on the "friendly" West believe that Askar Akayev has already stopped at the steering wheel of the republic, and it’s time to change the steering. The power of the current president is really strong, but … didn’t we have recently witnessed various peaceful revolutions – "Rose Revolutions" and "Orange"? If something for already spent scenarios will be arranged here, then surely be called no less romantic and in accordance with the local flavor – the "Revolution of Edelweices", for example (pah-pah-pah, of course, but just in case copywrites on the name – my name ). The first harbingers of storms are already appearing. The elections in Jogorku Kenesh – the Kyrgyz parliament were held, but they were accompanied by the rally of the opposition, mainly in the Narym and Issyk-Kul regions. Deputies, however, most of them became supporters of the current President Akayev. Today in his administration they talk about the possibility of extending the authority through a referendum.
Will it be possible to implement this idea – will show the future, and *************.
Does the Kyrgyz need "Edelweissov Revolution" – to solve them. Russia is clearly not needed. Because today Russians in Kyrgyzstan and so good.
For the week to us almost native conductor Sasha himself volunteered to carry us at the airport. Specially requested from work.
Passed by the base of the Americans, admired the interiors of the airport "Manas", drank on the "strive" in the bar. And on the farewell hugged. In Russian.
– And they told you how "Cholpon-Ata" translated? – Suddenly Sasha about the Issyk-Kul Resort who loved us. – "Father Stars". And you know, I believe that our starry hour is still ahead ..
It’s he talking about tourism so that he himself very much hope.